Beijing's long-established brands, many of which can be counted up to the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty.
More than ten generations of emperors of the Ming Dynasty, why did only the Jiajing years come out with so many old brands?
Because Beijing is the imperial capital, the development and survival of the food industry is closely related to the changes in the political world.
After all, "public consumption" is the basis for the survival of high-end catering.
You expect the common people to eat and drink every day, and the ordinary people in those years and months were really "unable to do it by concubines."
During the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, the "Great Ceremony Discussion" caused a major reshuffle in the Beijing catering industry.
The later period to the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty was the second major reshuffle.
The Daoguang years of the Qing Dynasty were the third.
The Abdication of the Qing Emperor and the establishment of the Republic of China were the fourth time.
The July 7 Incident of 1937 was the fifth.
After the founding of New China, the people of Chinese have since stood up for the sixth time.
Reform and opening up is the seventh time.
This matter is by no means a flicker, far from it, from the end of the Qing Dynasty to the changes in the catering industry in the Republic of China, Lao She and other gentlemen's works have been mentioned.
As for the sichuan cuisine from Beijing to Sichuan cuisine after the reform and opening up, I personally experienced it, tasted it myself, and finally ate myself from white clothes to meat.
When a batch of new restaurants rises, a number of old ones fall.
"Century-old brand" is rare, not only in quality and operation, but also in the need for wisdom and courage of the family to be able to keep pace with the times and not forget the original intention.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > the originator of Beijing roast duck: Cheap Fang</h1>
The "Food Treasure Record" records that roast duck originated in Jiankang during the Southern and Northern Dynasties of China, that is, Nanjing.
At that time, it was called "hot duck".
Zhu Yuanzhang liked this mouthful, "a solar eclipse roast duck."
The imperial court kitchen has been continuously improved to produce the famous Nanjing roast duck.
Ming Chengzu Zhu Di moved the capital to Beijing, and by the way brought the custom of eating duck in Nanjing to Beijing.
This also confirms the relationship between catering and politics that we just said.
So many southern officials dragged their families and mouths, left their hometowns, and came to Beijing from the south of the yanyu River, and were not allowed to eat their hometown dishes from time to time?
So eating duck has become a tradition in Beijing.
The prototype of the oldest roast duck shop in Beijing, "Cheap Fang", was formed during this time.
However, during the Jiajing period, Cheap Place was still a roadside restaurant, and there was no plaque.
It was also luck that one day the store walked into a person, ate satisfactorily, named this roadside shop "Cheap Shop", and personally inscribed a plaque.
Later, this person impeached Yan Song and was killed, and the boss of the "Cheap Shop" fought for the righteousness of the people, resisted the pressure, died and protected the plaque, and won the respect of the world.
This person is Yang Jisheng, a loyal minister of the Ming Dynasty, after the fall of Yan Song, Yang Jisheng became a "model of the times", and he was also famous all over the world with the "cheap shop".
"Cheap Fang" has been passed down for more than 300 years, and by the end of the Qing Dynasty, it has become famous and sits firmly in the first chair of roast duck in Beijing!
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > the sudden emergence of "Quanjude"</h1>
"Cheap Fang" is an old signboard handed down from the Ming Dynasty, but "Quanjude" was not officially on the stage of Beijing catering until the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty.
There are two schools of Nanjing roast duck, divided into fork roast duck and oven roast duck.
Roast duck in the oven is represented by the old "cheap shop".
The fork barbecue duck technique was inherited by "Quanjude".
In 1864, "Quanjude" opened, and the first generation of treasurer Yang Quanren knew that in the "oven roast duck", it must not be able to fight the "cheap shop".
He heavily invited Teacher Sun, who had been on an errand in the imperial dining room, to study and develop the fork barbecue duck technique on the basis of improving the "hanging oven roast duck".
It should be noted here that although Beijing roast duck and Nanjing roast duck are both an ancestor in terms of technique, they have undergone earth-shaking improvements over the long years, and due to the different directions of improvement, Beijing roast duck and Nanjing roast duck have long become completely different.
After the "hanging oven roast duck" of "Quanjude" became a hit, it added stir-fry dishes and successively developed "whole duck dishes" and "traditional Lu dishes".
Now eat roast duck pay attention to rolled lotus leaf cake, with green onion shredded dipped in sweet noodle sauce, this is the typical Shandong way of eating ah.
Since then, "Quanjude" and "Cheap Fang" have been competing for the throne of the first roast duck in Beijing for decades.
Until the end of the Qing Dynasty, "Cheap Fang" split into seven or eight, "Quanjude" took the opportunity to jump up, and since then it has become synonymous with Beijing roast duck.
The food culture of "Quanjude" has the profound connotation of "all without defects, gathering without dispersion, and benevolence is supreme".
The "Quanjude" that has lost this cultural heritage is no longer "Quanjude".
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > oven roast duck and hanging oven roast duck</h1>
Is there a difference in taste between "roast duck in the oven" and "roast duck in the hanging oven"?
There really is!
Roast duck in the oven is China's roasted duck with the heat of the furnace wall, the temperature in the furnace is first high and then low, the temperature naturally drops, the fire is warm but not intense, the air humidity is large, the duck is heated evenly, the oil and water consumption is small, and the skin and meat are not separated.
The roasted duck is dated red with no impurities on the surface. The outer skin is shiny and crispy, the meat is white and tender, the taste is delicious, and "the duck breast is like a freshly steamed bun, very flavish."
Hanging oven roast duck oven, with a stove hole without a stove door.
With fruit wood as fuel, use an open flame, smokeless, low-fire, long burning time.
The duck used is not opened, and the internal organs are taken out of the hole and poured boiling water into the duck's stomach.
The roasted duck is full of appearance, the color is date red, the skin is thin and crisp, the skin and meat can be separated, and the outer charred and tender have a delicate aroma of fruit and wood.
The focus is on the separation of this skin and meat, and the duck skin is to be eaten with sugar.
There are two theories of origin, one was invented by the Eight Flags disciples who raised caged birds, and the other was invented by the wives and ladies inside the door of the mansion.
Spit on a fake old Beijing on Douyin recently, actually poured a whole roast duck with sweet noodle sauce to nibble, which is called the "martial food" of old Beijing...
Isn't that?
You're not afraid to die like this?
It is very hateful to mislead friends from other places and ruin the reputation of Beijing, and in order to make money and increase fans, the face is not wanted!
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > generation of talented people</h1>
In addition to these two famous Peking ducks with historical heritage, Beijing roast duck has always had a new generation of popularity.
During the Republic of China, Chu Xiang, the great master of halal cuisine in Beijing, created the famous halal restaurant "Xilaishun".
Chu Xiang lived in Niu Street, four generations as a cook, and was the first holy hand in the beijing halal food industry before creating "Xilaishun".
In the first year of Xuan reunification, Chu Xiang entered the imperial dining room of the Qing Palace and began to work as a cooker for the halal kitchen of the presidential palace of the Beiyang government at the age of 25.
Chu Xiang's "Xi Lai Shun" boldly uses asparagus, tomatoes, potatoes, lettuce, tomato sauce, curry powder, salad dressing, cheese powder, and fresh milk into halal stir-fry.
Chu Xiang has created more than 70 kinds of dishes in Xilaishun, and the menu has reached 145 dishes.
The roast duck made by Chu Xiang, according to the memories of Mr. Tang Lusun, a famous foodie in Beijing, is far above the two "Cheap Fang" and "Quanjude".
Unfortunately, when Chu Xiang died, his disciples could only get a few points each, and the "Xilaishun" roast duck was annihilated.
In today's Beijing, Beijingers generally do not go to "Quanjude" or "Cheap Fang" to eat roast duck.
It's expensive, and the taste is not as good as before.
Beijing's cutting-edge roast duck shops such as Duck King, Jiuhuashan, Da Dong, Chang'an No. 1, Four Seasons Minfu, Quan Duck Season, Deyuan, etc. have all improved their techniques and are more suitable for the current era.
These are relatively authentic, and the price is now small and expensive.
There are also many low-grade shops, not to list, as long as it is not a tourist area, just find a restaurant to eat.
These shops are cheap, more than 100 yuan can eat a set, the people eat daily addiction is no problem, foodies can take a detour.