Lu Wenfu said in his novel "Foodie": "There is heaven on the top, and Suzhou and Hangzhou on the bottom." Suzhou can be at the top of heaven, I am afraid that the main reason is that its cuisine exceeds that of Hangzhou. ”
Suzhou, a typical jiangnan ancient city, has a unique exquisite elegance in terms of diet, and has also bred many gourmets with "tricky" tastes.
In their view, eating is a realm. Many of Suzhou's authentic cuisines are very interesting in their pens, and when we read it again, we can't help but be drooling.
Chen Xiaoqing, the general director of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", once said that the modern literati who deserve to be gourmets in his heart are Liang Shiqiu, Lu Wenfu and Wang Zengqi. The last two of the three have an indissoluble relationship with Suzhou cuisine, and we will talk about them one by one.
01.
"Food blogger" Wang Zengqi
Wang Zengqi is a recognized "foodie" in the writers' community. If in the current Internet age, then he must be a proper food blogger, and the "million-up lord" must have his place.
Although he is a Gaoyou person in Jiangsu, the most familiar thing about him is the description of Gaoyou salted duck eggs. In fact, he also loves Suzhou cuisine, whether it is dinner or dim sum, he has left many unique tastes of Suzhou.
For example, Suzhou specialties, he not only knows those old brands, but also can name the most recommended products.
For example, Cai Zhi Zhai, he said that "mung bean cake is the best in Kunming's Ji Qingxiang and Suzhou Cai Zhi Zhai, heavy in oil, and added with roses." ”
For example, Songhe Tower, he mentioned that "curd milk meat is a famous dish of Suzhou Songhe Tower, the meat taste is strong and mellow, and the entrance is melted." ”
There is also a very cost-effective dried tofu, Wang Zengqi has a high evaluation of it: "Suzhou's small dried tofu is boiled with soy sauce, sugar, shiitake mushroom soup and dried half dry, the taste is long and chewy." Get on the bus from Suzhou, buy two packs of dried small tofu, and chew all the way to Zhengzhou. ”
It can be said that Wang Lao's love for Suzhou cuisine is scattered everywhere in life, and you can see some shadow of Su-style food everywhere you go.
02.
"Sweet and sour writer" Lu Wenfu
The famous writer Lu Wenfu is jokingly called "Suzhou Food Culture Propaganda Ambassador", people call his writing style "sweet and sour realism", he uses "sweet and sour realism" to describe the daily eating and drinking of Su-style life.
In his famous novel "Gourmet", Suzhou cuisine runs through it, and it is all lu Wenfu personally investigated and collected evidence.
There are hibiscus chicken slices, snowflake chicken balls, squirrel mandarin fish, honey ham, crab powder cabbage hearts, osmanthus small rounds, lotus flour chicken head rice, etc.; medium and low-grade popular dishes are more abundant, such as cabbage stir-fried meat shreds, garlic fried liver, braised fish nuggets, dried tofu, orchid heads, etc.
There is a passage in the novel that reads: "Zhu Ziye got up very early, and sleeping late was not related to him, because his stomach and intestines would squirm when they arrived, almost as accurate as an alarm clock." As soon as his eyes opened, a thought popped into his head: 'Go to Zhu Hongxing to eat the head soup noodles!' ’”
The book also introduces the eating methods of Zhu Hongxing noodles: hard noodles, rotten noodles, wide soup, tight soup, mixed noodles; heavy green (more garlic leaves), no green (do not put garlic leaves), heavy oil (more oil), light point (less oil), heavy noodles light pouring (more noodles, less toppings), heavy pouring light noodles (more toppings, less noodles), and crossing the bridge.
Old Suzhou people will definitely feel extremely kind when they see here, isn't this our daily life? In order to eat that bowl of noodle soup, Suzhou people can get up early at five o'clock, just for that bite.
Not only Su-style noodles, but also a food map of Suzhou is mentioned in the novel, which is quite interesting: "According to his (Zhu Autonomous)'s instructions, go to Lu Wenxian to buy sauce meat, go to Ma Yongzhai to buy wild game, go to Wufangzhai to buy five-spiced pork ribs, go to Caizhizhai to buy shrimp and mackerel, go to the house of so-and-so old man to buy bad goose, go to Xuanmiaoguan to buy dried tofu with oil, go to the places where ghosts know and find flavored snacks that ghosts know..."
Suzhou people laugh when they see this, we are really exquisite in eating, because each store has its own specialties, and every season also has seasonal food.
Lu Wenfu also said: "Suzhou cuisine has its complete structure. For example, the beginning is a cold pot, followed by hot stir-fry, after hot stir-fry is sweets, behind the sweets is a big dish, behind the big dish is a snack, and finally a pot of soup as a summary. ”
Just a few lines summarize the essence of Su Bang cuisine, and after reading it, I can't help but shout: Isn't this our ordering routine?
Having said so much about the writer's food, I am already hungry before I finish, so I plan to write here first, and then introduce a few other "foodie writers" in a few days. Without further ado, I decided to eat it tomorrow!
"Life is like a sudden message, don't live up to tea, soup and good weather."