This article was published in the "Sanlian Life Weekly" No. 50, 2020, the original title of the article is "Tofu and its relatives", it is strictly forbidden to reprint privately, and infringement must be investigated
The soy products in a few dishes are varied.
Reporter/Wu Liwei
Rotten bamboo processing plant in Shiping, Yunnan
A few pieces of dried tofu in the toppings, the tough taste is particularly prominent, enough to support me to eat a complete bowl of vegetarian noodles; a table has a bean coat or rotten bamboo, with a little hollow chewiness so as to fill the gap without meat; obviously all are tofu, some tender as jade, some can be fried and roasted, in addition to the original taste of brine or gypsum, sour, smelly also loved by others, tofu and its relatives are really a very interesting big family.
Tofu in different places may use the same soybeans, but because the local water quality is different, it has a differentiated taste. Because I was looking at vegetables and mushrooms in Yunnan, I went to Jianshui and Shiping to see tofu, which are specialties of Yunnan and a branch of the national tofu cultural diversity.
There is only a 45-minute drive between Jianshui and Shiping counties, and the craftsmanship of making tofu is similar, but the local driver will definitely shake his head and say: "Jianshui and Shiping tofu are not the same." Shiping, although tofu is more famous, it lacks changes in the four seasons. We build water tofu, and each season tastes a little different. But you outsiders can't understand it. ”
Jianshui County still retains the old city gate of Lin'an Province, Jianshui tofu is also called Ximen Tofu, the origin of the name is an old well outside the West City Gate. This ancient well, called Dabanjing, was built in the early years of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty and was built by Xu Boyang, the general of the city at that time. Jianshui County is rich in groundwater resources, and there is an endless stream of people who come to fetch water every day in front of the big plate well, but until now its water level is still high. The secret of Jianshui tofu comes from this Ximen Big Plate Well, all the tofu shops in the city come to fetch water from near and far, not only them, but also the residents rush to come in various ways, take a few buckets and pull them home for drinking water. Because people's enthusiasm is too high, it has even spawned a small local business that runs errands and fetches water for people.
The tofu factory in Jianshui, Yunnan Province, makes tofu by hand
The Zengji Banjing Tofu Factory, which is next to the big itai, has become a local Internet celebrity because of its food documentary. The tofu shop began to make tofu every day before dawn, and the second floor also opened a snack stall, the price has not changed for a long time, three dollars soy milk to drink, fried tofu and grilled tofu are five dollars a piece. Tofu shop is still doing local business, the network is not net red, the patron is still the original, tofu itself does not have too strong circulation, although now the logistics is developed, but after long-distance transportation, the taste of tofu will certainly change slightly, locals like the taste after fermentation, but foreigners may not be able to accept much.
We ran to see their house making tofu in the early morning, although the shotgun for the gun uses a lot of machinery and equipment, but making tofu is still a manual job. Between the thick fog, everyone silently performed their duties in the humid air, filtered the soybean milk grinded by the machine twice, removed the okara, and then poured into the brine, stirred and waited for the soy milk to solidify, and the tofu was basically formed. The steps are not complicated, but they need to be precipitated, clarified, filtered, and poured in and out by a pair of hands over and over again, and it is easy to get dirty on the ground. Later, in a smaller tofu shop outside the West Gate to see the man make tofu, only one person, non-stop in every link of the operation, but there is no trace of water on the ground, making everywhere cool and sharp, a look to know that life must be a neat person.
The biggest difference between Jianshui tofu and Shiping tofu is the shape of tofu, Jianshui tofu is a small square the size of a matchbox, and Shiping tofu is a larger flat rectangle. Jianshui people use gauze to manually shape the tofu, two hands left and right, up and down, with gauze to stretch out a small square, every 100 pieces of a plate, rest on the shelf to dry and control the water, while natural fermentation. The hot and humid season is as short as two or three days, and the winter is dry for five or six days, and then the gauze is removed on one side, and the prepared tofu is stacked on one side, and the new tofu is added on the other side.
Built in the Ming Dynasty, the Ximen Dabanjing is the secret of Jianshui tofu delicious (Photo by Zhang Lei)
Jianshui's tofu factories are relatively small in scale and look more marketable. Especially in the winter, the number of tofu made has also decreased a lot, and soy products such as bean skins are simply not done, and the bean skins in the store are purchased from Shiping. Early in the morning, I got up to see Jianshui's tofu, and then rushed to Shiping to see the processing of soy products, just in time.
Shiping's Beimen Tofu Factory is the most famous, our magazine interviewed many years ago, this time, they have moved to a new address in the suburbs to ensure water quality in the city. Although Yang Zhijian, director of the tofu factory, does not say much, he is a capable person, and now he has the production capacity of two workshops, specializing in soy product processing.
I learned that Bean Skin and Rotten Bamboo were originally twin brothers. Water quality has little impact on soy products. Soy milk through the gradual heating of the equipment, the formation of soy paste can make soy products, relying on artificial scoops poured on the steam board, forming a film, about half an hour of baking stereotyping, and then manually picked up and dried on the crossbar. If you pick up a whole sheet with a spatula, it will dry for 24 hours. If you cut it into four sections on the steam plate, and then crumpl and stack each on the crossbar, and then dry it half dry and shape it slightly, what comes out is the rotten bamboo.
Making soy products is also a craft job. Bean paste can be beaten by a machine, but the process of spilling a scoop and picking up the bean skin with a hand cannot replace people. Yang Zhijian said that the way of hand splashing can make the skin of the beans thinner and more uniform, and the process of re-shaping with the hands can also make the taste of soy products more fluffy.
At present, they only make these two soy products that the locals love to eat, such as a thousand sheets in Wuhan, vegetarian chicken, dried tofu and so on in the north, and the method is another system. For example, a thousand sheets, or tofu skin, use bean blossoms instead of soy milk, the method is to use external forces to compact the bean blossoms tightly.
Different tastes vary from place to place, which has formed a variety of classic soy products.
Grilled tofu is a classic way of making Yunnan tofu (Photo by Zhang Lei)
Jianshui grilled tofu
When we arrived in Jianshui, it was just after noon, and we originally wanted to have lunch in the hotel restaurant where we stayed, but the waiter was a little embarrassed to say that the restaurant was not prepared for lunch, "We ate lunch simply, either rice noodles, or grilled tofu, casually eat and eat full."
Jianshui tofu is almost always eaten grilled. Once I saw the wall written "authentic roasted tofu", I was a little excited, I thought there would be tofu feasts and other dining, a question to know, local roasted tofu and grilled tofu are the same meaning.
Although the hotel does not provide lunch, at 5:00 p.m., a stall will be set up in the courtyard to bake tofu for guests to eat. The sky darkened slightly, the yard was cold, roasting the fire by the small stove, while watching the waiter turn the tofu pieces back and forth, full of anticipation is still quite comfortable. The small tofu cubes slowly bulge from the flat, and the side away from the grill is drummed up first, but don't worry about eating, turn over and let the other side bake for a while to also bulge, then it is considered to be roasted to the heat.
Holding chopstick clips is really not a good way, it is cold on the outside, and it is still hot inside. Look at the big sister next to the big sister directly pick up and tear, cool fast, tofu is also easier to dip into the sauce, just pick up the piping hot tofu, can quickly pour the hand to tear the tofu in half, it is really necessary to practice the hand kung fu diligently.
The tofu skin is crispy and crispy, and the inside is still full and soft, but it is soft with toughness, and it is really good to eat this a little stubborn.
After eating 20 yuan at the hotel, I was not addicted, and ran to a nearby gourmet night market to continue eating. Which one is good to choose, where more people go, but also consider the empty position, some are because the distance from the stall owners in the middle is too far, it is inconvenient to reach out to pinch the tofu, so the seat has been empty.
Picked a young girl's stall. She also uses the traditional method of counting the corn kernels separately, and the guests clip a piece, and she throws a grain of corn in the corresponding small bowl. Fifty cents per piece of tofu.
"What do you want to do?" The stall owner asked. Jianshui grilled tofu has two kinds of dipping sauces, the dry ingredients have chili powder, pepper noodles and salt, and the tide ingredients are prepared in advance by marinade, paprika, pepper noodles and soy sauce. The tide is thick, but I chose the dry material. There are already 20 pieces of tofu at the bottom, and I feel that I can eat another 20 pieces after changing a stall. Grilled tofu has the same seductive feeling as eating potato chips. If it is just a piece, the dipping sauce may not be dipped too evenly, which affects the taste, but after eating it, the urge to pinch the next piece quickly arises. I asked the stall owner, "Did you make the tofu yourself?" "Of course not, it was wholesale from a workshop." But the method of roasting tofu is similar to every family, and what kind of roast to eat is a personal decision of diners. Why are the stalls different in popularity? "Because of the dipping sauce." The girl sitting next to me said, "The spiciness of each house is different, which kind of spicy you like to eat, go to which one." ”
Mapo Tofu (Photo by Huang Yu)
Mapo tofu
At the end of the Tofu Yunnan chapter, let's talk about a few other tofu dishes or snacks.
Mapo tofu is a classic in Sichuan cuisine. Put oil into the pot, sauté the garlic, put in the minced meat, then mix it with watercress sauce, cook it and add the tender white tofu, add the soup and simmer it slightly. It seems to be a simple dish, but in fact, many people have not yet understood the things behind it.
In Sichuan cuisine, there are seven-character mantras about mapo tofu: "spicy, hot, fresh, crisp, whole, tender", in these requirements, the most difficult is a "hot" word. Master Deng Donghua, who has inherited all the old traditions, said: "When the tofu bites down, you must feel that the core is hot, just as the so-called 'one hot is three fresh', the hot tofu can at least increase the freshness of this dish by three." ”
Although Sichuan cuisine pays attention to one-pot cooking, it is only three or five minutes of stir-frying time, and it is impossible for tofu to reach a very high temperature. For example, the indispensable watercress sauce inside, its thickness will block the penetration of the temperature, so the tofu must be piping hot before the pot.
If you want to make tofu hot, you must simmer it in advance with broth, so that you can completely reach a very high temperature from the inside out. In order to reduce the loss of heat in the process of tofu frying, Mapo tofu should be poured three times to lock in moisture, so that even if it does not smoke, the tofu is still at a very high temperature. Be careful when eating, it is numb and spicy, I'm afraid you have to breathe outward from time to time, and swallow the tofu while it is hot when it is at just the right temperature.
Large boiled dried silk (Photo by Huang Yu)
Yangzhou dry silk
Dried silk is a classic in Huaiyang cuisine, and cutting dried silk is the basic skill of Yangzhou chefs. A piece of Yangzhou local large white dried seeds, the texture is flexible, first soaked in 95 ° C salt water, to remove the bean smell of the dried beans themselves, and then cut the dried seeds in pairs and then cut the wire, cut well and then cut the fine wires from it, and finally make the dry wire slender and continuous.
If it is blanched and dried, after cutting, it will be stacked into a hill, placed in the middle of the soup base made of soy sauce and sesame oil, and the dried silk should be carefully dipped in the soup to eat. There is also a large boiled dried silk in Huaiyang cuisine, as for the difference between the two, Wang Zengqi has already written: "Boiling dry silk does not know when it starts, use small shrimp and rice to hang soup, throw dry silk into the pot, put the ham shredded, chicken shredded, cook until the taste, you can serve." Not too flavorful, you can also add shredded mushrooms. In the season of winter shoots, you can add winter shoot silk. The taste of boiled dried silk should be pure, and the boiled dried silk may be thick, but it cannot be put aside crabs, clams, sea oysters, and clams, that is, it is noisy, and the taste of dry silk cannot be eaten. It can be seen that the more test of boiling dry silk is the soup base, chicken, duck, and pork bones hanging together, and finally only see dry silk, dried shrimp and pale yellow soup, all the taste is swallowed together in the tough taste of chewing dry silk.
Wuhan bean skin (Photo by Huang Yu)
Wuhan bean skin
Wuhan's bean skin is as famous as hot dried noodles. A friend in Wuhan said this when he introduced the bean skin to me, "Chairman Mao's favorite food is it." I am also a heavy crush on bean skins, so I can say that I have the same hobbies as Chairman Mao.
The skin is not just a skin made of bean flour. But this skin is the foundation, using rice and peeled mung bean flour in the right proportion to make a paste, peeled to prevent the color of the skin from blackening out of the bad appearance. The production of bean skin is often a large pot with a flat middle and a circular arc around it, and the rice paste is sprinkled on the bottom of the pot, the most traditional tool is to use the mussel shell of the lake mussel to spread the batter and the eggs it punches into it, and the advantage of the mussel shell of the lake mussel is that it is not easy to stick, and it is also more suitable for the curvature of the bottom of the pot.
Picking up the mussel shell to draw a curve, the rice peel is turned over as a whole, and then it is time to watch the chef enjoy the process of sprinkling various salivating fillings up layer by layer. The standard ingredients for bean skin are glutinous rice, diced meat, diced bamboo shoots and diced shiitake mushrooms, and in some places, the meat part is also derived from new varieties such as char siu, chicken breast, pork belly and so on. First lay a layer of glutinous rice, then evenly sprinkle other fillings, and finally sprinkle a layer of green onions, pour a fine circle of oil along the edge of the bean skin, watch it grunt and start to bubble as the temperature rises, then pick up an empty plate to cut the bean skin into small pieces, and then turn over the noodles to shovel into the plate with a shovel, yellow and clear, very oily.
A bean skin is rich in flavor, sticky rice, shiitake mushrooms, and diced meat. There are also many changes in the taste, the skin is crispy, the rice sticky, the bamboo shoots are crisp, the meat is slender, the shiitake mushrooms are slightly chewy, cut into small pieces, and each bite has a rich variation. After eating the whole thing, you can be full of energy throughout the day.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > more wonderful reports can be found in this issue of the new issue "Frugal Generation Exit, No Savings Consumption Carnival", click on the commodity card below to buy</h1>
#pgc-card .pgc-card-href { text-decoration: none; outline: none; display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; } #pgc-card .pgc-card-href:hover { text-decoration: none; } /*pc 样式*/ .pgc-card { box-sizing: border-box; height: 164px; border: 1px solid #e8e8e8; position: relative; padding: 20px 94px 12px 180px; overflow: hidden; } .pgc-card::after { content: " "; display: block; border-left: 1px solid #e8e8e8; height: 120px; position: absolute; right: 76px; top: 20px; } .pgc-cover { position: absolute; width: 162px; height: 162px; top: 0; left: 0; background-size: cover; } .pgc-content { overflow: hidden; position: relative; top: 50%; -webkit-transform: translateY(-50%); transform: translateY(-50%); } .pgc-content-title { font-size: 18px; color: #222; line-height: 1; font-weight: bold; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap; } .pgc-content-desc { font-size: 14px; color: #444; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; padding-top: 9px; overflow: hidden; line-height: 1.2em; display: -webkit-inline-box; -webkit-line-clamp: 2; -webkit-box-orient: vertical; } .pgc-content-price { font-size: 22px; color: #f85959; padding-top: 18px; line-height: 1em; } .pgc-card-buy { width: 75px; position: absolute; right: 0; top: 50px; color: #406599; font-size: 14px; text-align: center; } .pgc-buy-text { padding-top: 10px; } .pgc-icon-buy { height: 23px; width: 20px; display: inline-block; background: url(https://lf1-cdn-tos.bytescm.com/obj/cdn-static-resource/pgc/v2/pgc_tpl/static/image/commodity_buy_f2b4d1a.png); }
【Sanlian Life Weekly】2020 No. 50 1117 Unsaved Consumption Carnival ¥15 Purchase