Text / Tarzan of the Apes
Among the many cities in China, Xi'an has distinct characteristics, each city brick is engraved with a simple and humble through the millennium, and history is like a shadow of Xi'an food culture, compared to the food is the most vivid one to evaluate the influence of the city, Xi'an has the pride of Xi'an, history and food bring good self-feeling has reached the level of paranoia.
In the three meals of Xi'an people, noodles have a unique status in the jianghu, not only the carnival of the grassroots, but also the must-have for the guests, coupled with the feeding of Guanzhong, which has achieved the unique culture of Xi'an people's foreign food.
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Pasta is to Xi'an, just like hot pot is to Chongqing, complementing each other and inseparable. Pasta and the city of Xi'an, the tone is very similar, vicissitudes and thickness are both, affinity and pleasant. It is no exaggeration to say that pasta is the soul of Xi'an people's diet and the supreme declaration of Xi'an people to the stomach and intestines. A bowl of noodles not only freezes the Chinese culture, but also represents the optimism, sincerity, coarse and fine style of Xi'an people, thick and beautiful.
Countless Xi'an people have traveled south and north, and what they can't forget is a bowl of noodles made of wheat in Guanzhong. What is widely circulated is the sentence of Zhang Yimou, a business card of Xi'an: "You don't give me such a meal, just a whole bowl of noodles."
For Xi'an people, what Sichuan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, is to support the stomach of the goods, what Zhou Li Qin system, Han Xi Tang style, but also far less than the taste of noodles to come steadily, in front of a bowl of thick slippery, steaming noodles, Xi'an people are difficult to say "no".
In all corners of Xi'an, there are all kinds of road food, no matter what kind of sect, Xi'an's authentic food business card, are related to pasta. As a highly malleable ingredient, after repeated pounding, there are dozens of noodles formed by tendons and toughness, or classified by shape, or distinguished by production methods, and even each region produces representative noodle signs, building a stubborn food culture of Xi'an people.
In the hearts of everyone in Xi'an, they have a bowl of noodles that they think are the most delicious.
Xi'an people seem rustic and thick, but in fact full of imagination and hard work, these complex and contradictory personalities are reflected in a bowl of noodles. Xi'an large and small noodle restaurants almost exhausted all the results of "water + flour", filled with a spoonful of ancient Chang'an water, and a ball of flour milled from Guanzhong wheat, after waking up overnight, flipping back and forth around "stepping on the noodles" to strengthen its flexibility, so that the noodle block is a rigid and soft, soft with rigid handicrafts, can withstand a series of difficult actions such as pulling and pulling, so that the shape and chewiness of the noodles change, such a big kung fu, but not fast food can withstand.
When eating, it is more necessary to pay attention to the sense of ceremony, eating noodles in Xi'an is not called eating noodles, called "noodles", the meaning of gobbling. The correct way to eat Xi'an noodles is to use a coarse porcelain sea bowl, on garlic, pay attention to one breath, and purr a mouth, is a good bowl of noodles; gobble, a sweat, and then pat a head of garlic, full of comfort. Shake off the sweat, continue to grill the noodles, turn the river into the sea in the bowl, until the head is buried in the sea bowl; after eating the bowl chopsticks, the sweat buds are full, accompanied by a full burp, taste a bowl of noodle soup entrance, the original soup is the original food, the afterglow of the delicious food is still in the tip of the heart, it is really soul-destroying. This is the posture of Xi'an men eating noodles, with a unique and cruel demeanor, a bowl of noodles under the belly, the spirit of the spirit rushing to swallow thousands of miles, do not know what the heavens and the earth are.
So why do Xi'an people like to eat noodles?
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After all, the Guanzhong area accounts for nearly 2/3 of the population of Shaanxi, and Xi'an accounts for 1/2 of the population of the Guanzhong area.
"A line in the Qinling Mountains, eat rice in the south and eat noodles in the north", pasta as a staple food, for southerners can not support the card noodles, but for Guanzhong people, this thing is the hard currency in the rice field.
The Guanzhong Plain is surrounded by mountains on all sides, eight hundred miles of QinChuan, and a stream of water rushing through, which can be described as "a golden city of thousands of miles", which not only achieved the earliest "kingdom of heaven", but also created the splendid civilization of Zhou, Qin, Han and Tang. Xi'an is only the most precious collection in Tianfu.
Guanzhong has a thick soil and a sufficient water flow, which is suitable for wheat growth, which is the fundamental reason for the deep accumulation of noodle culture in Guanzhong.
Since there are written records, Guanzhong is the earliest germination area of agriculture, the place where the ancestors of the Ji sect cultivated around 4,000 years ago, and Yangling is the place where hou Ji was born and feudal.
Shaanxi Guanzhong wheat belongs to the winter wheat, and the quality is particularly good among the northern wheat. The State of Qin built the largest Zhengguo Canal, especially the use of iron and cattle farming, which built the most suitable conditions for the growth of wheat in Guanzhong. The invention of stone mill enabled noodles to advance in Guanzhong.
For a long time in China's history, its political center of gravity has always been pressed on the front line of Guanzhong, which accounted for one-third of the country's arable land during the Qin and Han dynasties, and the wealth and civilization enabled the sustainable development of wheat cultivation. With the demise of the Tang Dynasty and the eastward shift of economic center of gravity, the noodle culture in Guanzhong has evolved rapidly, and noodle products with local characteristics have gradually been introduced in various places.
However, whether it is in the Tang Dynasty, which witnessed the climax and brilliance of farming in Guanzhong, or in the migration and exchange of nationalities in various periods, although Chang'an ushered in various cuisines, it eventually took root and spread, all of which took root and spread, all of which took noodles as the protagonist, but in some aspects were more exquisite, such as the steamed buns, paying attention to dry planing like soybeans, mouth soup like peanuts, and water sieges the city like broad beans.
And Guanzhong people are somewhat stubborn, this stubbornness in food has become the pursuit of delicious food and the love of life.
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The people of Guanzhong always have great devotion to a bowl of noodles.
Whether it is to satisfy the appetite or improve the cooking conditions, the technology of making pasta in Guanzhong has become more and more refined, and a series of cultural phenomena have been derived from it, which has become part of the continuation of tang style and Qin yun.
In the past, in the Guanzhong territory, every year at the end of the summer harvest and the new wheat into the warehouse, each village and temple had to sing a big drama for a few days. Women in Guanzhong have to learn the hand of noodle making to complete the transformation of the role of their wives, and girls who do not meet food making and cooking will be ridiculed by their in-laws even if they marry out.
Wheat has fed the Guanzhong people for generations, and the noodles mixed with Guanzhong wheat and Weihe Water have truly melted into the blood of Guanzhong people. In the colloquial saying "Eight Monsters of Guanzhong" circulating in the Guanzhong area, everything that reflects the phenomenon of eating is related to pasta. In particular, "a dish of oily spicy seeds", a bowl of "oily spicy seeds" is "steamed" in the eyes of many Guanzhong people, which is simply delicious in the world.
Among the various noodles in Guanzhong, the highest status is the noodle noodles, which are very different from the whistle noodles, and are also the most exquisite bowl of noodles, xifu is the most popular; it is not only a delicate choice of guanzhong noodles, but also engraved with the development of culture. Although the story is not available, at least it is certain that it has some relationship with the Zhou people, after all, Xifu is the birthplace of Zhou Qin.
Generally speaking, Guanzhong noodles should be wide and the bowl should be large, and it is best to eat them in the sun, while the practice of Qishan Noodles is very different from the way to eat. It is not an exaggeration to say that Qishan Zhenzi noodles embody the Civilization of Zhou Li, and its essence lies in the ingredients when making and the order when eating. But no matter from which point of view, the biggest feature of the diet is still a gift of nature, the core of Qishan noodles is Qishan vinegar, its taste is pure and sour, more suitable for the advantages of soup wide and long boiling, so far Qishan farmers still maintain the habit of making vinegar. It can be said that whether a pot of Qishan noodles has a soul depends on whether the vinegar passes.
Qishan noodles pay attention to "thin" and "tendon", especially soup, control the overall situation, pay attention to "light, wang, sour, spicy, fragrant", the five ingredients can be said to be accompanied by the fine soldier iron riding, and pay attention to the color matching. Red oil floating noodles, soup taste sour and spicy, a bowl of soup on a chopstick noodles, but this chopstick wrapped in spices of noodles is long and tendon and hot, a stick lips, swallowed rapidly, both tough and refreshing, but also quite layered, fresh fragrance overflowing teeth, taste buds cheerful and wanton, really is the color and fragrance are readily available. Only after experiencing the Qishan Zhenzi noodles can you know that the spicy and Shanxi vinegar of Sichuan Hunan is a small witch in the Qishan Zhenzi noodles; and the wooden plate full of Qishan Zhenzi noodles in turn will instantly freeze the weather of Zhou Qin, Han and Tang, and the aftertaste is endless.
The taste of food is inseparable from the tempering of history and the following of people. Even if the Qishan noodles are mixed with customs and order, but the love has moved, the "etiquette" carried in the past has been continued by "commodities", and the urbanization process has also allowed the noodles in Guanzhong to flow into the corners and corners of Xi'an City, and the noodles are like vines, connecting history and modernity, relieving the stomach and nostalgia of Xi'an people.
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With the rapid development of urbanization, busy Xi'an people replace diners from the land, and the hurried rhythm of the city forces Xi'an people to pursue simplicity and simplicity on the opposite side, relying on a variety of rich condiments and a few greens to outline the whole of most Xi'an people's pasta at present.
This may also be the charm of pasta, exquisite, extremely meticulous, not exquisite, a squat by the wall is a meal, which is both a simple and low-key home-cooked meal, and can also exist in the high-end liquor store. However, compared with the noodle restaurants in the side alleys or on the street, it has more vitality, and most of the Guanzhong cuisines that enter the chain or restaurant have stopped their lives in the marketization.
Near the meal, turning to the side alley, you can see the construction workers covered in stucco, the fashionable girls dressed in exquisite clothes, the broad men driving luxury cars, and the polite business elites... Gather in front of the noodle restaurant to support a table, pour a bowl of noodle soup to remind the stomach, peel two garlic, watch the guys keep "stepping on the noodles", waiting for the steaming noodles; vinegar, spicy and other ingredients are frugal, with casual, stir evenly, roll up the sleeves, pull off the tie, remove the sunglasses, pull up the hair around the ear, a mouthful of noodles, a bite of garlic, hold up the big bowl, eat sweaty; the thick miscellaneous sauce noodles are more to bring back the afterglow of sweetness, the spicy taste of the oily noodles meanders in the mouth, through the throat, Only a stream of happy heat is left to wander between the lungs... No matter how proud and delicate the stomach, no matter how lonely and lonely the heart, will be conquered by the qiankun in that bowl.
Nowadays, noodles are not only the daily food of Xi'an people, but also become the food symbol of Xi'an, becoming a feature of the foreign population, and Guanzhong noodles have also been given regional connotation and era significance.
In the torrent of history, Xi'an's food culture is feeling the tide washing and baptizing the city. From the Qin people who sang "No Clothes" two or three thousand years ago to today, the time of the millennium has made xi'an's bowl of noodles extreme, and picking a chopstick at will can shock the world. Qujiang chopsticks have achieved today's national demonstration zone of cultural industry, and Lintong chopsticks have provoked the first batch of national full-scale tourism demonstration zones... The ancient style relics are innovating, showing the strong endogenous nature of Xi'an's economy, in the face of the era of large consumption, is this bowl of noodles in Xi'an ready?