The author of this article is in the study room of Changchun Garden
Tube Building "Ten Thousand Lights"
In the mid-1950s, I settled in Yanyuan And I didn't realize that I had passed more than one nail. During this period, he spent five years living in student dormitories, namely the Thirteenth, Sixteenth, Twenty-nine, and Thirty-two Houses. At that time, the dormitories of Peking University were called Zhai, Zhai, and the name of the book was also very elegant, and it sounded like a faint fragrance of books. Later, the jai was changed to a building. With this change, the original bit of literary atmosphere has disappeared. At the same time, the name of Yenching University was renamed when it was first established. These seven fasts are virtue, talent, uniformity, preparation, body, health, and perfection. Later, these fasts also became "buildings" - the first floor of the red, the second floor of the red, and a column of numbers was arranged.
Fortunately, the gardens left by the previous dynasties around yanyuan garden, except for a brief "new name" in the 1960s and 1970s, most of them still retained the original name. Because I have been working at Peking University for a long time, many old gardens have also lived in, and they all follow the old name. It should be explained that most of the above-mentioned jai are student dormitories, with the exception of the sixteen jai, which is a "marriage room" that is used to accommodate new workers. In the early days of the founding of New China, the school developed greatly, and the new employees did not have housing after marriage, and temporarily changed to student dormitories for placement. The Sixteen Fasts are one of them. In the 1960s, I had just graduated, got married, had children, had no family quarters, and "nested" here. A twelve-square-meter room on the second floor of the Sixteen Zhai became my first family room at Peking University.
Sixteen Zhai is located in the famous triangle of the school center. The building has three floors, one by one, and is evenly distributed. There is no kitchen and no separate toilet. The corridor was the kitchen, and coal was burned at that time, and each house had its own briquette stove, briquette, kitchen utensils, mops, etc., all of which were installed by the door. There is a "public toilet" on each floor, and the school stipulates that the first and third floors are men's toilets, and the women's toilets are on the second floor. At that time, the conditions were like this, and everyone was satisfied, because after all, there was a "nest". What seems "incomprehensible" today was commonplace at the time. I remember that at that time, there were workers in the school factory, doctors and nurses in the school hospital, and more importantly, young teachers who had just graduated and joined the work. I vaguely remember that Luo Haocai, Sha Jiansun, and possibly Wang Xuan had all lived.
The corridor became a kitchen, and in the morning and evening there was a fire, smoke and fire, and the aroma of vegetables fluttered, which was very lively. Neighbors have been around for a long time, they know each other, southerners and northerners, have different tastes, do their own thing, and seem to be competing in cooking every day. Sometimes there are good food, but also shared with each other. Onion garlic oil and salt, lack of communication, like a family. Narrow intermediaries, mutual understanding and mutual accommodation, rarely disagreement, after all, is a reader. There are many years like this. My son Xie Yue was born here, when his wife was studying in Mr. Wang Yao's graduate school, to do his studies, and he couldn't afford to hire a nanny, so he invited his mother-in-law to take care of the children, and a room was actually lived in three generations! In a flash, it is also three or four years. Suffering is suffering, but there is also rare joy.
Langrun Garden old smoke scene
I have my own dormitory in the mid-sixties. At that time, six or seven dormitory buildings were built along the shore of Langrunyuan Lake. The building is four stories high, and I am assigned to live in twelve apartments with one room on the second floor. There were four rooms in one unit, and three families lived in one place at once: a family of three generations in the Department of Chemistry, living in a larger suite; we already had children, living in the Chaoyang Room; and a young couple in the Department of Geophysics, living in a north-facing room. One unit totaling about fifty square meters, shared a kitchen, shared a toilet, remembered that there was a shower with no hot water, and was also shared by three families. This housewarming, we finally bid farewell to the "Ten Thousand Lights" tube building. Although it is still narrow, cooking, bathing, especially the toilet, must be "queued", a neighbor a child, like to "sing" in the toilet, we also have to wait patiently. Difficult, but finally have a relatively closed self-space.
Langrun Garden is located in the north of Yanyuan, which belongs to the Houhu area and is a former Qing Old Garden. There are pavilions in the mountains, which are also old things, remember prince Gong Yi? The title, here are the royal relatives of the other business, pavilions, royal style, especially the beauty of the water, let people rejoice. Langrun Garden is an island surrounded by four waters, and the water on the other side of the West Mountain flows through Hangjiatun and flows into Langrun Garden, which makes the area suddenly beautiful with lakes and mountains. Mingren Mi Wanzhong has a poem: "More like the bright moon night of the tall building, leisurely put the wine on the west mountain", which should be the scenery of the day here.
Soon after I moved into Langrun Garden, Mr. Wu Zuyi and Mr. Chen Yixuan also became my neighbors. However, their housing is more spacious than mine and is a single unit. Next to me were Mr. Ji Xianlin, Jin Kemu, Ji Zhenhuai, and so on. They stayed in newly built apartments like me. I am particularly envious of two houses, one is Mr. Winder, an American, single, who has lived in Yanyuan all his life. Mr. Winder's house is a semi-courtyard house, which houses the main room and the box room is inhabited by a Chinese maid's family. Mr. Wen is not only a scholar, but also a nutritionist, and he grows many flowers and vegetables in the hospital. Mr. Wen is 90 years old and still rides a bicycle and can swim back in the swimming pool.
The other is more beautiful, Mr. Sun Kaidi's home. As I said earlier, Langrun Garden is an island, and the Sun family is even more absolute, monopolizing an island within an island. Several bungalows, front and back of the woods, are also surrounded by water on all sides, quiet as a village house, with a small wooden bridge access. Sometime in the last century, the news came that the current professor could repair and move in at his own expense, and a colleague and I had thought about the joint venture between the two companies to repair the island, but we did not succeed. The dream came true, but later I presided over the Peking University Poetry Research Institute, and with the full support of the then president Zhou Qifeng and the alumnus Luo Ying, I built the Tsai Wei Pavilion as the office of the Poetry Research Institute near the left of the small island of Sun Kaidi. For this purpose, I wrote the "Record of Tsevi Pavilion" and inscribed it in stone.
Wei Xiuyuan listened to the ten miles of frogs
Yanyuan is the common name of the current campus of Peking University, and its basic layout is the former campus site of Yenching University. At that time, Principal Stuart Leiden ran in many ways to build the school, raised funds, and the beginning of the park was impressive. After Peking University settled in Yanyuan, the original scale of Yanda could not keep up with the needs of actual development, so there was an idea of looking for "empty land" in the nearby park to build houses. The buildings along the lake in Langrun Garden are the beginning. In the 1970s and 1980s, this line of thinking extended to the Weixiu Garden at this moment, including the Subsequent Jingchun Garden and Chengze Garden. Everything is also like Langrun Garden, looking for "open space" by the lake to build a house. In this way, the original garden pattern is destroyed, and it is those of us who are eager to "dwell" in the benefit.
The original owner of Wei XiuYuan is not examinable, and it can be determined that it is an extraordinary person. This garden is facing the West Gate of Peking University today, and in the middle is the Royal Road from Xizhimen to the Yuanmingyuan on that day, and it is now the only way from Beijing to Peking University, Tsinghua, Summer Palace and Xiangshan. Weixiu Garden also presents the atmosphere of an old royal garden, which is characterized by the creation of a charming water village smoke scene in the countryside of Gyeonggi on that day. There are gentle streams in the park, there are mountains, there are pavilions in the mountains, there are water, there are bridges on the water, there are islands, the island is surrounded by green trees, and the village is hidden in it.
In order to build buildings, cut down trees, build roads, destroy rice paddies, and fill in the river channels. In an instant, wei xiu's scenery was almost lost. I remember that in those days, we walked out to the Yuanmingyuan, often out of the West School Gate through Weixiu Garden. Beside the field road, the reeds sway, the lotus is fragrant, and the rice paddies are sandwiched between the banks, making people feel as if they have returned to the distant Jiangnan. At that time, in order to expand the area, the original river channel was changed to a cement ditch, and occasionally you can see the figure of the playful wild duck "smuggling" the dark ditch, see this, can't hide the heartache, are they looking for a lost home?
But at that time, in my heart, it was a different mood. Day and night, finally looking forward to the day when I have my own independent house in Yanyuan. On the fifth floor of the top floor of Weixiuyuan Twenty-one Apartment, a small two-bedroom apartment became my new home. The new house has a simple bathroom, no living room, and a small table in the middle aisle for dining and receiving friends. I finally bid farewell to the Langrun Garden where three families and three generations "lived together" and began a comfortable and peaceful teacher life. At Wei Xiu Yuan, I take graduate students, teaching, researching, and writing articles. Some of the limited academic achievements have benefited from this relatively calm environment. On the fifth floor of Ulsoo Garden, there is a small lanai for drying clothes, which overlooks Changchun Garden, which was still a rice field at that time. That rice field belongs to Haidian Xiyuan Township, which is the famous production area of Jingxi rice. The bright moon of the tall building, the night view is miserable, and the frogs sing in the four fields. From midnight to dawn, it goes on and on, and it can be described as an all-night carnival. Frog singing disturbs people's dreams, the troubles of the past are inexplicable, but now it has become a singing, and the thoughts are confused!
The last rice field of Changchun Garden
My last stop at Yanyuan is Changchun Garden, which is the place of relocation indicated in my hukou book. Changchun Garden, a place where kangxi stayed outside the countryside to avoid the hustle and bustle of government, its history predates the Yuanmingyuan and the Summer Palace. Judging from the remaining drawings, the park began at the west gate of the present-day North University and spread all the way south to the area of present-day Haidian, Suzhou Street, Daoxiangyuan and Furongli. The whole park is connected by flowers and rivers, pavilions and pavilions, and the lake area is connected by flower banks, which is a great victory. According to history, Kangxi invited foreign teachers to teach here, studying astronomy, geography, and arithmetic. These former dynastic events have now been obscured by the buildings that cover the sky, leaving only the mountain gates of the two abandoned temples of Changchun Garden standing at the west gate of The North University, holding on to the loneliness of hundreds of years.
Changchun Garden is now the only two remaining mountain gates
The living conditions of Changchun Garden are better than several houses in the past, with three bedrooms and one living room, and a single courtyard, but the area is still small, and the usable area is only more than 50 square meters. I live on the first floor, there is a small garden, the garden is planted with two pomegranates, bamboo planted along the wall, and there are also lingxiao flowers climbing all over the fence. I spent the last days of the 1980s here, and I greeted the 1990s here.
Peking University's Changchun Park is the former residence of Kangxi. It should be said that I accidentally stepped on the royal ground. What impressed me was the paddy field next to the courtyard wall. The paddy field is small in size and seems to be deliberately "retained", telling people that the rice eaten by the imperial court was once produced here, the famous Jingxi rice. The rice fields usually do not see the cultivators, and every once in a while, people wearing boots, sunhats and motorcycles come to "take care of it". These people know it: this is the last paddy field! They don't want to keep it, and they can't keep it. The heart-wrenching last paddy field, the last generation of "farmers".
January 6, 2021 in Changping North Qijia, Beijing
Author: Xie Mian
Editor: Xie Juan