Every year into the Waxing Moon to transition to the New Year's period, most of China's rural areas will have a very grand dinner, known as China's best annual earthy feast, there is no luxurious venue, the place of the meal is in the village, the participants are relatives, friends and neighbors in the village, the number of people eating at least a few tables, dozens of tables, at most there will even be a thousand people feast. The scene of the banquet of a thousand people has become a kind of folk culture experience activity, and the participants are mostly in the city to experience the best village banquet of the year with a big bite of meat and drink.
When did it arise? Specifically, there is no real hammer evidence, the re-emergence of pig-killing rice should be in the late seventies, the long-silent pig-killing rice has begun to become popular in the countryside again, killing pig rice in different places has different forms of expression, but it is a way of life that reflects the agricultural civilization, and the farmers who live at sunrise and sunset will raise a full year of fat pigs at the end of the year to eat and drink in the way of killing pigs, reward this year's harvest, and the differences in pig-killing rice in different places will be somewhat different at the feast. In some places, an ancestor worship service will be held on the day of the slaughter of pigs to pray for the smooth agricultural affairs in the coming year.
In the past, there was a saying that children and children, don't cry, after the waxing moon is the year, children and children you don't have to be hungry, after the waxing moon to kill pigs, which means that such an agenda of killing pigs in rural families is a major activity of the year in rural families, and it is also a delicious feast.
The temptation to kill pig rice is that the atmosphere is extremely strong, the most enjoyable thing about killing pig rice is that you can indulge, return to the nature of eating meat and drinking wine, vegetables and meat are all farm-owned, vegetables have a vegetable flavor, meat has meat aroma, compared to Chinese many hidden heart meal mode, only pig killing rice is the only serious to not talk about chores, the theme is only to eat and drink, the most interesting thing is that even if the cold wind is cold on that day, it will be resolved by this huge and pompous, super popular, full of table of big meat dishes of the pig rice, In this best earthy village banquet of the year, all the people who came to eat and walk on the wall, drank slightly drunk, and left the table with hesitant steps and contentment in the night.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" >how does pig slaughtering start? </h1>
Eating and killing pigs is not every day in the waxing moon, generally after the winter solstice, to pay attention to the zodiac auspicious day, the lively foreshadowing of this day is buried in the first day of the slaughter of pigs, the farmers who are ready to kill the pigs this day to inform the next day to eat the neighbors of the village, the friends who are related to the deceased are notified one by one, in advance to prepare the wooden ladder for pork to open the edge, the basin for receiving pig blood, the table top where the pork is stacked, the table is two long stools plus a door panel, and the pig killer is arranged in advance. The next day, I got up early in the morning to burn the wood stove, prepared hot water and tea cigarettes, and a square table with stools, etc., and prepared a firecracker, a few sticks of incense and yellow paper.
The people who kill the pigs are called pig killers here, and they are only busy in the waxing moon in a year until their feet are not dusty, and even have to be dated many days in advance, but as more and more people leave the village, the people who do this kind of work in the village are some elderly middle-aged and elderly men, and young people can't do such work. The pig killers had their own heads, leather aprons, a wooden butcher knife toolbox, and a loin basin. There are three people in a row, each with a division of labor, and the slaughter of pigs is carried out in six steps, six steps of setting the case, lifting the pigs, slaughtering, hair removal, dissecting the belly, and dividing the meat, and the whole process of slaughtering the annual pigs is also completed in one go.
After killing the New Year pigs, you must start to divide the pork, prepare the best earthy village banquet of the year, the stove for cooking the day is also the most earthy stove, the big wood stove is set up on a large iron pot, the firewood is burned in the stove to red, the people who do the pig killing rice are all well-crafted village cooks, and then start to prepare a table of pork singing the protagonist's earthy feast, a large pot of meat, a large bowl of wine, braised pork, tamales, braised pork, braised pork, bone broth, meatball soup, fried meat slices, etc., a long stool four square table slipped up, and then, Wait for the annual earthy feast to begin.
< h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > slaughtered pig rice in Yunnan</h1>
Yi, Bai, Hani, Jingpo, Dai, Naxi... Many ethnic groups in Yunnan, different places, have different pig-killing rice, the pig killing day after the pig killing will be the head knife meat and heart and lungs to reward the strong men, part of the pork belly to do cured meat, two hind legs marinated ham, the rest of the meat will be used to make "pig killing rice". There is no need to bring gifts or red envelopes to eat pig rice, the more guests come, the happier the host is, and the more lively the atmosphere. The time to eat pig-killing rice in Yunnan generally starts at five or six o'clock in the afternoon, and there is usually a sacrifice before eating pig-killing rice.
The pig-killing rice in Xuanwei, northeast Yunnan, can be described as a typical representative of the pig-killing rice in Yunnan. Xuanwei, located in the Umong Mountains, is a very famous place, and the Xuanwei ham, which won the gold medal with the national liquor at the Panama International Exposition, also has a deep relationship with the slaughter of pigs.
Xuanwei slaughter pig rice in the most characteristic lump meat, Yi specialty, Yi language called "black color foot", because the weight of each piece of meat is in two or three two, into a "lump" shape, so the name, chicken, pig beef and mutton can be used to make lump meat, chicken, pork or sheep, beef cut well, cooked in hot water, no less than any condiments, including salt; meat after cooking, and then sprinkled with garlic water, salt and peppercorns can be eaten. When eating, you need to hold the meat with both hands. Its taste is very delicious, because when cooking, it can not be stewed, but look at the "heat", "fire" is cooked as soon as it arrives, "fire" is not enough to make meat raw, "fire" is slightly over the meat is hard.
Xuanwei pork rice should be made in at least eight bowls, common ones are braised pork, thousand pieces of meat, fried pig blood or pig blood soup, stewed crispy meat, stewed ribs, cold mix pork head meat or belly liver and pork head platter, Koryo meat, lump meat, buckle lily, small stir-fried meat, pork heart lung or intestinal belly vegetable soup, in addition to eight treasure rice, boiled long vegetables, fried potatoes, fried lotus white, vegetable bean flowers, and Xuanwei's unique fried yellow tofu and other rural farmhouse vegetarian dishes.
Arrived in southern Yunnan, the first dish of the pig-killing dish is very fierce, several people need to have tacit cooperation, prepare a basin in advance, put salt in the basin, wait for the pig blood to gush out, with a basin containing salt, then one person needs to take chopsticks to stir the liquid in a clockwise direction, the other person starts to slice the pork liver, spine, etc., quickly into the pot to fry until crispy, the third person prepares the spice material of the blood, and stirs the delicate shallots, ginger, garlic, fried peanuts, root and other ingredients into the basin, when the liquid in the basin is almost converted into semi-solid, The fourth person first sprinkled a handful of mint into it, and then threw a piece of chestnut charcoal that burned red into the basin, and with a stinging sound, when the white smoke rose, the white or blood was ready.
The by-product of pig-killing rice is Yunnan folk pickled meat, the most important and famous folk pickled meat in Yunnan, often marinated in between, such as ham, bacon, pipa meat, blown liver, bone ginseng, pork liver fish, blood sausage, blood spicy seeds, oil-bottomed meat.
< h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > northeast pig slaughter dish, white meat blood intestine finale</h1>
In the northeast, the slaughter of pigs is also comparable to the new year's lively event, the butcher who was invited to kill the new year pig also had to ask for a special dish that belonged only to the northeast, and poured fresh and steaming pig blood into the pig intestines became the protagonist of one of the most famous dishes in the northeast, this dish is sauerkraut white meat blood sausage, this dish was originally used for Manchu sacrifices that believe in shamanism. There is nothing unusual about the ingredients used in the whole dish, they all come from the most common ingredients, sauerkraut is made of Northeast Chinese cabbage, white meat is made of pork belly, and blood sausage is pig intestine into pig blood.
Sauerkraut white meat blood sausage is also the protagonist of the northeast people's dinner table, every New Year's Festival hospitality and other major activities, a sauerkraut white meat blood sausage is inevitable. It must be there and it must be.
In the eyes of northeasterners, why is the sauerkraut white flesh and blood sausage a tasteless, because these three are a perfect match like a golden partner, and the white flesh and blood sausage without sauerkraut cannot eat pleasure. In the past northeast, there will be hawkers selling blood sausages along the streets, and the older generation of northeasters still remember the street sales, "white meat, clear blood sausage", this sound will alarm the neighbors, buy back the white meat blood sausage with their own pickled sauerkraut, is the most evocative taste in winter, to paraphrase a popular phrase today: there is a sauerkraut white meat blood sausage in winter, it is really worth it in the world.
A common home-cooked dish that can be passed down from generation to generation will not be easily created because of the simplicity of the ingredients, and the more ordinary food is made, the more exquisite the food, including a seemingly simple white meat is not a handy thing. Northeast people say that white meat is to be stewed, and the white meat that comes out is sliced and presented with snow white crystal clear, which is good.
White meat should be selected with good pork belly, and the next five flowers should be used, and the next five flowers will not be too fat. The selected pork belly should be carried out in a process of acid removal, so that the meat is more elastic and tender, first soaked in cold water, and then pressed with bluestone to drain the acid. In this way, the processed meat is more likely to cook and rot, and the taste is more delicate. The most common kung fu is a piece of white meat, and the real master will make the white meat as thin as a piece of paper, and see through the flesh.
In the sauerkraut white flesh and intestines, sauerkraut supplement is called one of the "Ten Monsters of the Northeast", "big vat small tank stained sauerkraut". It is said that the northeast people eat cabbage is the most ruthless, and the amount of consumption in a year will be stunned by the people of other provinces, but if they know that they mainly use chinese cabbage for sauerkraut, it is not surprising that sauerkraut can be continuously filed in and out of the four seasons thereafter. Northeast sauerkraut is only made of Chinese cabbage, and does not add too many accessories, all rely on natural fermentation. "...... Boiled with boiling water in the jar with stone press, the long time will taste sour, crisp and refreshing like sour pear, for winter. "
Finally, the blood sausage is used. Blood sausage in the northeast is really a very homely dish, blood sausage to fresh pig blood to make is the best, fresh pig blood with mixed with chopped pig (sheep) oil and chopped onion, salt, ginger powder, pepper and other spices after the enema, tied tightly, put into the pot boiled, blood sausage seasoning is very free, almost every family will come out with a different square, although the taste will be tender and soft to end, but if you go to the fine taste, different producers will bring different flavors to the blood sausage. The casing used for the enema is a section of the large intestine about 3 feet long, which is just the thickness.
A sauerkraut white meat sausage is like this, the yellowish sauerkraut is cut into strips at the bottom of the pot, the white meat is torched out, and then a circle of blood sausage is placed, and the hot pot is on the shelf, and the steaming Northeast dish comes.
No matter how the pig-killing rice behaves, when it comes to eating the pig-killing rice, it means that the farmers have worked hard all year, and the Lunar New Year is coming.
(This article was first published by Tencent News's account youjian canteen, and reprinted with permission from today's headline "Youjian canteen")