In the old days, Beijing halal restaurants occupied the "half of the country" of the catering industry, divided into two factions, the eastern school was famous for stir-frying, paying attention to the juicy and large mustard, and the western school was mainly grilled and grilled, paying attention to the white juice of small mustard. The halal restaurants in old Beijing are easily distinguished from the big restaurants from the big restaurants in terms of name, rarely using "hall, building, residence, garden" to be called, and mostly using "Xuan, Shun" and so on. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the People's Republic, there was a "Yuanxing Hall", which was Leng Zhuangzi, which was closed before the War of Resistance.
At present, the Hongbin Building, which is the highest level of the state-run halal hall, was moved from Tianjin after the founding of New China, and it is not a long-established brand in Beijing, let alone included in the "Eight Buildings" of the Great Sect. Tongzhou Small Building is not a "building", but is named "Yihexuan". In recent years, there have been many Xinjiang-style halal restaurants in Beijing, such as Xinjiang restaurants, Turpan restaurants, Western restaurants, etc., which is not a system with the old Beijing halal restaurants.
The old name of Beijing halal restaurant that still exists today is "two roasts, four shun, three Xuan". We have introduced the "two grills" before, that is, the roast meat and the roast season (you can see the picture below). Today I will introduce you to the "four Shun", as for the "Three Xuan" we will talk about it later.
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"Four Shun" is the east to shun, the west to shun, the south to shun, and another shun, some people added the once existing north to shun, called "five shun". In fact, Beilaishun is an extension of the original site of the Gokokuji Snack Bar, and neither the history nor the dishes can be compared with other four Shun, and it seems inappropriate.
Dong Lai Shun
Dong Laishun's life has also been introduced to you (you can see the picture below), and this time we will briefly introduce it. The founder of Dong Lai Shun was the Halal Ding Deshan. Ding Deshan's family lived outside Dongzhimen and his family was poor, so he and his second brother Ding Defu and third brother Ding Degui sold loess to make ends meet. Just in 1903, when Dongan Market was founded, he also set foot on the road to making a fortune.
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Young people who sell loess may not have heard of it now, but in the past it was also a business. Like people in Beijing, people buy coal and add loess to shake the briquettes. The construction of housing also requires the use of loess and ash combined to form a "fork plaster" to wipe the house.
Therefore, in the past, rural people and unemployed people in the city could open as long as there was a row car and a shovel. When Ding Deshan sold loess, he often came to Dong'anmen outer street, Wangfujing Street, and Goldfish Hutong. He saw that the small merchants and vendors on the street outside Dong'anMen were all going to the Qingbaqi Military Training Ground to do business, and he thought that this was a good opportunity, so he asked his relatives to borrow some money to buy some household goods for stalls, and then found someone to borrow an iron pot and opened a small business.
At the beginning, Ding Deshan sold bean juice, because selling bean juice does not use much capital, use a few large pieces, just buy a large iron pot of bean juice in the powder room, and then spend a few large pieces to buy some flooded pickles in the oil and salt shop. The first day it opened, the bean juice was all sold. This is a great encouragement to Ding Deshan, increased confidence, and determination to continue to work. Later, millet noodles were added.
Ding Deshan is a person who is not afraid of hardship and is willing to pay hard work. Originally set up a stall in Dong'an Market, the sale was good. In order to make more money, whenever he encounters the Spring Festival factory, he will rush to set up stalls to do business. The business of dongan market is not lost, let his brother run it.
Ding Deshan is very good at using his brains, knows how to guess the psychology of customers, and he often tells his two brothers that if we eat outside, we must find a clean and cheap place to eat. Therefore, he always cleans up the stalls clean and beautiful, making people look happy from the heart.
In this way, after two years of hard work, I saved up a few dollars. Three years later, not far from the north gate of Dong'an Market, a simple hut was built and the "Dong lai shun" sign was picked out. Why is it called "Dong lai shun"? Because his family lives outside Dongzhimen, he came here from Dongzhimen to do business, and "Shun" is to ask for things to go smoothly and auspiciously.
Some people may say that because Ding Deshan gave his own business name good, so the trade was launched, and the Donglai Shun character name became famous. This is not the case, not only Ding Deshan, but also the current entrepreneur, to buy and sell a brand name for themselves to find a good sound. No one looks for that bad, unlucky word. They are all good words, auspicious names, but some of them just started, and some did not work for many days before they collapsed.
We are still saying that the Donglaishun of Dingde Mountain, why can it be done and enjoy a big name? First, do everything possible to reduce costs. After the sign of Dong Lai Shun was picked out, the main business at that time was pie and millet porridge and a few simple side dishes. In order to reduce costs, he rented a vegetable field not far from his home outside Dongzhimen and asked his mother to help his wife grow vegetables. Donglaishun uses fresh, low-cost dishes produced in its own vegetable fields to make pies and side dishes. It is much cheaper than the natural way of grocers. Second, the price of goods is cheaper than others. That is to say, the quality of food is better and cheaper, because the cost of Donglaishun is low, and the same food, Donglaishun is slightly lower than the price sold by other families and earns more than others. In the past, Ding Deshan often said: "People call people, a thousand voices are silent; goods call people, and they come when they click their hands." This is the true meaning of Ding Deshan's efforts to bring the East to the east.
In 1912, after the first fire in the Dongan market, Ding Deshan was determined to do something big. The bungalow was converted into a building, and from 1914, it was changed to "Donglaishun Lamb Restaurant", adding a few more guys and apprentices, adding shabu lamb and halal stir-fry.
This time, Ding Deshan still took the original method, and he bought hundreds of acres of land outside the Dongzhimen Gate. Some land is used as pasture for shepherding sheep, and some land is used to grow grain and vegetables. The lamb should be selected from the West Mouth Sheep or the North Mouth Sheep, and the West Mouth refers to Gansu, Ningxia and other places.
West mouth sheep ball tail (small tail rolled inward), small skeleton, pink flesh white fat, tender and tender, slender hairs because it grows in the Yellow River Loop beach area, so it is also called "beach sheep". Beikou refers to the area around Zhangjiakou, Zhangbei, and Kulun. The North Mouth Sheep is second only to the West Mouth Sheep. The local sheep in Beijing, with big tails, coarse hair and rough flesh, are cheeky and cheeky.
At that time, Deshengmen Madian was the largest cattle, sheep and horse market in Beijing. Sheep sellers who come from the West or North Exit are here to sell to the Lord. Dong Laishun specially bought Xikou sheep and drove the sheep to the pasture outside Dongzhimen and handed them over to hired workers to graze. Only feed is supplied, no work money is used, and sheep manure is used to top the oem's money. In autumn, the sheep have been fed fat, and it is also the peak season of shabu lamb. And with the slaughter, the pasture spare sheep are constantly.
Donglaishun lamb slices are thinly sliced. They slaughtered the sheep and skinned it, using the most suitable parts of the sheep for shabu-shabu, such as the lamb's hind legs. The rest of the area is reserved for stir-frying and pie making. Lamb used as shabu-shabu must be "pressed" to slice the meat.
When pressing meat, first find a clean place, put the natural ice, put a layer of foil on the top, put the lamb on the yard, cover the lamb with an oilcloth, and press the ice cube on the oilcloth, which is called "pressing meat". The lamb is pressed through the day and night, and the blood broth and miscellaneous flavors in the lamb are sucked out, so that the meat is straight and cut.
This kind of "pressed meat" is better than frozen meat, because frozen meat, like frozen cabbage, destroys the tissue of the lamb, making it lose its tender flavor, and it is not delicious. Slice the meat you eat and cut it thin to cook it. Regarding the thin cutting of meat slices, there were two most famous masters in the Zhengyang Building in the meat market outside the door before that year, and the slices of meat they cut were about 4 inches long, about 1 inch wide, as thin as paper, and 1 pound was cut out of 80 slices. In 1940, after the zhengyang building closed, Dong Laishun invited these two masters. Since then, Donglaishun's shabu lamb has become more famous.
Donglaishun's shabu lamb is not only tender, the meat slices are thin, and the condiments are complete. The condiments are high soy sauce, rice vinegar, small ground sesame oil, soy sauce tofu, raw sesame paste, cooked sesame paste, leek flower, brine shrimp oil, chili oil, pepper oil, cooking wine, sugar garlic, cabbage head, mustard greens, salted leeks, coriander, sauerkraut, vermicelli, frozen tofu, etc.
In the hot pot, people should also put some fresh mushrooms. Customers eat shabu lamb, in the past Donglaishun is the first to ask, do you eat fat, or eat thin, or not fat and not thin? Eat fat, give on the "little three forks". Eat lean, give the upper "upper brain". If you eat not fat or thin, you will be given a "big three forks". Let the customer choose for themselves.
When the customer is almost ready to eat, give a bowl of mung bean noodles. Mung bean noodles can absorb greasy, a bowl of mung bean noodles not only sucks away the slick oil in the hot pot, but also removes the oil flavor in the human mouth. Most of the above condiments are produced from the land outside the Zhimen of Dingde Shandong, and after processing, they are used by Donglaishun.
At first, there were no small oil, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame sauce and other workshops in Donglaishun, but after the opening of the Tianyishun Pickle Garden, the supply of these condiments was provided by its own shop. Therefore, the quality is high and the cost is low. No one in the same industry can compete with Donglaishun.
In the 1940s, Donglaishun was already a big restaurant, and it was a well-known restaurant in Beiping City. But it also deals in popular foods such as pies, millet porridge, and mung bean noodles. The west side of the building in Donglaishun is a place to eat shabu lamb and various stir-fry dishes, with a large dining hall and exquisite single rooms. The east bungalow has a long flat table and a long bench, which is a place for ordinary people to eat pies and millet porridge for the masses.
Now Donglaishun has developed into a large restaurant with several chain stores. There are not only Beijingers but also people from other provinces and cities who come to Donglaishun to eat; there are not only overseas Chinese, but also international friends. And there are often foreign government guests who come to Donglaishun to taste shabu lamb. Foreign friends eat Donglaishun's shabu lamb, all give a high evaluation, shabu lamb is good!
Xi Lai Shun
The original site of Xilaishun was in the south of West Chang'an Avenue Road, which opened in the late 2020s with a capital of 4,000 silver dollars and manager Chu Xiang. In the 1930s, the mutton restaurant became famous for its Muslim-style roasting, steaming, roasting and shabu-shabu practices, attracting many customers who loved beef and mutton.
Xilaishun mutton restaurant business prosperity, first, the location of the mutton restaurant is good, although the West single area is prosperous in commerce, pedestrians come and go, but the lack of halal mutton restaurant, the opening of Xilaishun mutton restaurant to meet the consumption requirements of some people. Second, the manager of the mutton restaurant and the head of the kitchen is the famous chef Chu Xiang.
Chu Xiang worked as an errand boy in the imperial dining room and the kitchen of the Beiyang Presidential Palace, creating "Western" halal dishes. Ma Lianliang duck is unique to Xi Lai Shun. It is said that Ma Lianliang was a regular visitor to Xilaishun, and once the brother-in-law of a certain warlord and a certain section chief fought for a seat, injuring Zen Xiang. Ma Lianliang stepped forward to rescue Chu Xiang and calm the incident. To this end, under the guidance of Ma Lianliang, Chu Xiang improved the crispy duck into a new dish, which continues to this day.
Chu Xiang is good at making a whole sheep table, that is, a fat sheep from the head to the tail of the sheep, from the lamb to the internal organs of the heart, liver, lungs, etc. can make delicious dishes, arranged into a table, called "whole sheep seat". Chu Xiang is also a master at cooking Shandong-style dishes. Such as crispy chicken, steamed duck, braised shark fin, grilled sea cucumber and so on are his specialties.
In 1937, Peiping was occupied by Japanese imperialism. Rice noodles, oil, fish, beef and mutton were all controlled by the Japanese, and prices soared, and Xilaishun's business was not easy to do. Coincidentally, in the early 1940s, Chu Xiang, who supported the City of Shunmen in the west, suddenly died of illness. Soon, Xi Laishun announced that it was closed. In 1982, Xilaishun's long-established brand resumed business in the south of Fuchengmennei Avenue road and renamed "Xilaishun Halal Restaurant".
South to Shun
Nanlaishun was founded in 1937, the original site in Caishikou, mainly to operate snacks, and then moved to the west side of the Grand View Garden, operating snacks and focusing on innovative stir-frying, its cannon paste, oil burst belly Ren'er, are famous and limited supply, as well as peach kernel duck square and other specialties, the reputation is greatly enhanced. Cannon (pronounced Bao) meat is made of a finger-thick iron plate.
It is said that Liu Baoquan, the king of the Jingyun drum, loves to eat cannon meat, and after he leaves the scene, he will go to a restaurant near the theater garden to eat it. Day after day, the chef estimated that the time was coming, so he waited. One day Later, Liu came down, the cannon meat was dried hard and slightly pasty, and it had a different flavor, so it was crooked and straight, becoming a new dish "cannon paste".
Another smooth
Another Shun began in 1948, the original site in the west of Xidan South Road, set east and west two Shun long, is the unique style of Beijing "halal" restaurant, its halal famous dish it like honey, spicy lamb chops and other best-selling. Mr. Yang Yingfu, a well-known legal expert, once wrote an inscription for him: "East to West and One Smooth, South to North to Only One".
Another shun selection of fine materials, delicate processing, exquisite cooking, beautiful shape, and with light, soft rotten, tender, pure taste thick reputation in Beijing. Later, due to the reconstruction of Xidan Road junction, it was moved to the south of Xihuangsi Avenue Road. The current plaque was inscribed by Xu Deheng, former vice chairman of the Standing Committee of the National People's Congress in 1985.
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