▲ A hot lamb hot pot in winter. Photography / Wu Xuewen
-Fengwujun Language-
Yun Guichuan
Sheep sheep sheep
When it comes to where the sheep are delicious, it seems that people can only think of the five northwestern provinces and regions of the battle and the scuffle: Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Gansu, Qinghai and Ningxia five seeded players sharpen their knives and compete to become the fat sheep, scrambling to be the first; Zhejiang as a member of the southern representative team dominates a track. But in fact, in the southwest region not far away, there is a treasure land for eating sheep that is seriously underestimated by foodies, and the people of Yunguichuan, who "eat big sheep in a muffled voice", also love sheep deeply.
▲ Winter and lamb are very well matched. Photo/soogif
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="01" > lamb powder & hot pot, competing for the stomach of Guizhou people</h1>
Guizhou people eat a variety of mutton, mainly mutton powder and mutton hot pot two categories. Guizhou people eat mutton powder, that is, no matter whether it is morning or evening, whether it is hot or cold, whether it is divided into three meals, regardless of the four seasons, as long as there is a mutton powder shop in front of the house, there is nothing to stop a Guizhou person from eating mutton powder. For the lamb hot pot, Guizhou people not only have a light and rich distinction between the bottom of the pot, but also pay great attention to dipping water.
▲ Authentic Xingyi lamb powder covered with coriander. Photography / Wu Xuewen
Mutton powder 丨 Four Gate Sects compete to dominate Guizhou
Guizhou's mutton powder rivers and lakes are extremely lively, and at least the names worthy of the name are Zunyi mutton powder, Xingyi mutton powder, Shuicheng mutton powder, Jinsha mutton powder four gate school.
Zunyi lamb powder is a kind of fermented coarse rice flour with a slightly sour taste, which pays attention to the original taste of the original soup. Xingyi mutton powder is sauce Xiangmen sect, the taste of the powder is not good, thanks to a mouthful of sauce, lamb powder shop can often see the boss support a large pot of stir-fried sauce, sauce aroma can float two streets. The mutton flour in Shuicheng and Jinsha both take the road of oil chili peppers, drying and roasting peppers and then milling them into coarse or fine chili noodles, mixed with mutton oil to make oil chili peppers, and many lamb powder shops are enough to get rich by selling oil chili peppers.
▲ Fragrant lamb powder sprinkled with red oil chili peppers. Photography / Wu Xuewen
In the life of a Guizhou person, mutton powder is grounded food, and it doesn't matter whether the place where you eat mutton powder is refreshing and bright. If a shop can give people a "greasy" feeling as soon as you enter the door, the soup pot is oily, the cutting board with mutton is shiny, the powder is shiny, and the table that just finished eating a second ago still has a little oil - the lamb powder in this shop is absolutely difficult to eat, sit down, order a bowl, a mouth, you can't stop!
▲ Lamb powder with a rich soup base, the coarse powder taste is smoother. Photography / Wind and Rain Night Return 879, Photo / Figure Worm Creative
A good bowl of lamb powder, the bowl is covered with red oil, coriander shallots and garlic sprouts float on the surface, and big red and big green are the main color. Then on one side of the bowl noodles, a thick layer of thinly sliced cooked lamb is added, and the lamb slices must be skinned, and the eggs, sheep brain, sheep blood and haggis can be added to the powder.
The other side is reserved for kimchi, and Zunyi's mutton powder prefers pickled lotus white, which is cabbage. Xingyi lamb powder is paired with pink pickled radish crumbles, in addition to puffed ear roots, pickled green peppers and other types. Finally, sprinkle with a spoonful of pepper noodles and paste pepper noodles, sour and spicy seasonings with the smooth and delicate fresh rice noodles, the thick and mellow aroma of the lamb soup base, people are amazing!
▲ Lamb powder, Zunyi people's first choice for breakfast. Photography/ Foodie Yumo Travelogue, Photo/Figureworm Creative
Lamb hot pot 丨 has light and thick
In addition to being obsessed with mutton powder, Guizhou people are also very intoxicated with mutton hot pot. Guizhou mutton hot pot in the clear soup is very common, but the parts of the pot are numerous, a lamb hot pot, from sheep's head meat, sheep hooves to sheep liver, lamb tripe, sheep intestines, sheep blood Wang, can be included in a pot.
▲ Black Mountain lamb, which is popular with guizhou people. Photography/5cc7d073, Photo/Figureworm Creative
Eat clear soup lamb, that dipping water can be exquisite. It is also interesting to say that the popular dipping water flavor of lamb hot pot in Guizhou is basically the same as the local lamb powder style. The dipping water of the Xingyi lamb pot also has to contain a spoonful of sauce and a spoonful of finely sliced sour radish, zunyi includes the hot pot in the Qianbei area dipped in water and loves to use oil chili peppers.
Red oil lamb soup pots are popular in the northern part of Qianbei. After the lamb is simmered with a belt soup, mix it with rapeseed oil and mutton oil, add peppercorns and sea pepper noodles and stir-fry the red oil base, then add the lamb broth and mix it into a pot of red oil pot bottom. When eating, the leaves of the green vegetables are soaked in, and when they are clipped out, they are also red and oily. In Guizhou, where all things can be sour soup, you can also eat sour soup lamb, with red sour soup as the base, with curd pepper dipped in water, the lamb with the pink of the sour soup, as if hooked with a layer of pink sauce.
▲ Black mountain lamb in northern Qianbei is generally eaten with skin. Photography / Wu Xuewen
Whether it is mutton powder or mutton hot pot, they prefer to use local black goats in Guizhou to make. Montenegrin lamb is compact, lean and fat, not greasy, and is also rich in glutamic acid, which is also "self-contained monosodium glutamate" lamb.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="02" > don't drink mutton soup? Sichuan people can't survive the winter! </h1>
Sichuan has been a major sheep producer in the south for many years, and the number and breed of goats have always been among the best in the southern provinces.
▲ Lamb and haggis in mutton soup, dipped in chili saucers and eaten. Photography / Ice Lingling, Picture / FigureWorm Creative
Sichuan, which is flooded with food, is also full of exquisite "eating sheep", braised, yellow stewed, steamed... The eighteen martial arts of Sichuan cuisine can be performed on the small fat sheep, but if the Sichuan people love "what sheep" the most, it must be the mutton soup in winter. Sichuan people are full of obsession with drinking mutton soup before and after the winter solstice, without that bowl of mutton soup, Sichuan people's winter is incomplete.
How much do Sichuan people love mutton soup? According to the West China Metropolis Daily, chengdu people alone spent nearly 1.3 billion yuan to drink mutton soup around the winter solstice in 2013 and ate 1.15 million sheep. Even the owner of the lamb seller can say that if the price of mutton in the market is not doubled in which year, it means that the Chengdu people of that year are "not able to fight well."
▲ The winter solstice of Sichuan people is inseparable from a bowl of mutton soup. Photography / Lan Lan, Picture / Figure Worm Creative
Sichuan's most famous mutton soup is Jianyang Mutton Soup, which has also been inscribed on the Intangible Cultural Heritage List, and this small city near Chengdu is famous for its bowl of mutton soup.
Jianyang mutton soup is only made with big-eared sheep that look cute and cute, paying attention to the soup color and milky white, and the soup taste is thick and fresh. In order to hang out a good soup base, Jianyang mutton soup is mostly stewed with pork bones and sheep bones, and it must also be added to two crucian carp fried with a crispy skin to enhance the color and flavor, and the fish and sheep are put together in a pot to make up a "fresh" word.
▲ The lamb broth stewed with pork bones and sheep bones is creamy in color. Photography / Silent Spiral, Figure / FigureWorm Creative
After the soup is hung, it is stewed with the washed lamb, haggis and each family's own secret spices, and then slices of the stewed cooked lamb are served. Then, take another hot pan, sauté the mutton oil, stir-fry the stewed cooked lamb in a pan, and add another pot of mutton soup.
It is said to be lamb soup, and when it is actually eaten, it is more similar to the way to eat hot pot. The milky white hot soup pot, accompanied by dark red fresh sheep blood and bright green peas, "take a risk" together, and eat it with the lamb in the pot and dip it into a dried dish of bright red sea pepper. Don't forget to put a bowl of mutton soup aside in advance to dry, and eat a bite of meat for a mouthful of soup.
▲ Lamb soup is eaten much like a hot pot. Photography / Xu Xiaohezi, Picture / Figure Worm Creative
In addition to the abundant production of big-eared sheep in Jianyang, the breed and production of peppers are also among the best in Sichuan. The dried chili sauce served with Jianyang mutton broth is also not to be underestimated. Red peppers are selected with a perfect balance of aroma and spiciness, dried and crushed to create a delicious flavor that is fragrant but not choking, spicy and not dry, and the cooked lamb slices rolled in a hot soup are just right.
In addition to Jianyang, Sichuan Longchang, Weiyuan, Shuangliu and other places of mutton soup is also outstanding, the practice and Jianyang mutton soup has similarities, mainly the use of sheep breeds and dipping sauce types are not the same, like Shuangliu mutton soup is mainly made of locally produced jute sheep, Weiyuan dipping sauce in addition to sea pepper dry dish, there are chili noodles and soy sauce made of wet sauce and soy sauce.
"Boss, come to a pot, half meat and half miscellaneous." In the wet and cold winter, the only thing that can call Sichuan people up from the spicy hot pot table is lamb soup!
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="03" > yunnan lamb and mint</h1>
The umami glutamic acid of Yunnan black goat, like guizhou black goat, has good umami characteristics. Huize's black goat has long been registered as a trademark and has become the loudest sign of black goat.
▲ Black goat is the main force of Yunnan hot pot. Photo/Visual China
Sichuan people love mutton soup, and Yunnan people also have their own mutton soup pot. The Sichuan people's mutton soup combines hot pot and soup pot in one, while the Yunnan people's mutton soup pot is more like a complete soup dish served in a soup pot, which is a complete dish that has been prepared. Guizhou people are "on top" of mutton powder, while Yunnan people are partial to mutton rice noodles. Guizhou lamb powder relies on sour powder or kimchi to dissolve, while Yunnan eats lamb, whether it is in a soup pot or rice noodles, the most inseparable is mint.
▲ Fish out a piece of tender and juicy lamb from the lamb pot. Photography /F777, Photo/Figureworm Creative
In a pot of boiling lamb soup, the surface must have been sprinkled with a layer of mint, so that even the meat under the pot could not be seen. The mint is delicate and tender, and in a short while it is all soaked into the soup, dissolving the refreshing taste into the thick white soup base, and the air is filled with the fragrance of mint. When eaten, the mint is degreased, and retains its own unique refreshing taste, while sucking up the umami soup of the mutton soup, with dipping water, fully staged in the mouth of the diners the golden supporting role is brighter than the protagonist.
▲ Yunnan lamb hot pot has a lot of copper pots shaped like old Beijing shabu-shabu. Photography / Small powder Meng, picture / figure worm · creative
The dipping sauce in Yunnan is a paste pepper dipped in water. Paste pepper is to dry peppers off the fire to bake, the heat is extremely exquisite, it is necessary to be slightly charred in the appearance, almost completely pasted before the second to stimulate the fragrance is the most intense, one second earlier is not fragrant enough, one step later will be bitter.
▲ Dried red peppers are made into paste peppers. Photography / Tan Hua Shattered Dreams, Picture / Figure Worm · Creativity
At this time, the roasted dried chili peppers are mashed into large grains of noodles, and the paste pepper noodles are made. With a paste pepper noodle base, you can accompany the green onion garlic puree coriander, you can match the mashed tomato, you can put some tempeh or curd milk, mix well and then add a spoonful of boiling hot original soup just scooped out of the pot, dipped in water.
In addition to rice noodles and soup pots, Yunnan people often eat black goat hot pot, the pot resembles the kind of copper pot of old Beijing shabu-shabu, with a bulging carbon fire in the middle, but the black mountain sheep hot pot in Yunnan is not like the old Beijing shabu lamb, but eats cooked meat with skin slices.
▲ Lamb meatballs are a common shabu-shabu in lamb hot pot. Photography / Wu Xuewen
Counting the sheep-eating Dafa in the Guichuan area of Yun, there are many more wonderful, and there will be more legends circulating on the sheep-eating rivers and lakes. Eating sheep is not high or low, only whether it is loved or not. Whether it's mutton soup or mutton powder, or roasted whole lamb, hand-held meat, lamb skewers, shabu lamb... Can let people exhale that cold breath on a cold winter day, give people the thought of their hometown, give people warm comfort, this may be the greatest meaning of food!
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Text 丨 diagram
Edited by 丨Z Xiansen
Image 丨 Photography/F777, Picture/Figureworm Creative
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