"Cow" has the meaning of hard work in traditional culture, and in contemporary internet vocabulary, there is also a sense of breathtaking. The Yulin people have a special love for cattle, and their love with cattle is even more long-standing.
The plan of the year is spring. At the beginning of the Year of the Ox, what are the new plans and dreams of the "cattle people"? Through interviews with some representative figures in the field of cattle, the reporter of this newspaper let readers know more about the cattle culture of cattle people and cattle in the land of Yulin.
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Yulin Niuba, the Year of the Ox is expected to be more cattle
After being made by traditional craftsmanship, the Yulin cowbar is being sorted into cans.
"Niuba is a traditional snack with unique Yulin characteristics, and it is also the ancestral craft of my family, I have the responsibility and obligation, and I hope to make the Year of the Niuba in Yulin more 'cow' with the strong support of the government!" A few days ago, "Uncle Niu" Li Hongjian said in an interview with reporters. Li Hongjian is the inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Yulin Niuba, he founded the Niu Uncle brand, hoping that in the future, Yulin Niuba can walk out of the cattle road of scale development.
"My ancestors slaughtered cattle for a living in the Qing Dynasty, and the beef that could not be sold was made into a cowbar..." Li Hongjian had a strong local feeling for the cowbar, he said affectionately, walking all over the country, only the cowbar is the most special production process, using beef buttock meat (commonly known as stick meat) as the main ingredient, marinating with a unique spice recipe for two or three hours, and then baking it dry with bagasse or pine needles, steaming it softly in a steamer, and then making it by braising, frying and other processes, the meat is soft and chewy, and it is full of delicious flavor after eating, which is a local must, which has a history of hundreds of years. This is also the crystallization of the wisdom of Yulin people, who are smart and thrifty, and in 2010, Yulin Niuba became a municipal intangible cultural heritage; in 2011, it was protected by the National Geographical Indication. "Good news again!" Li Hongjian told reporters with a smile that before the arrival of the Year of the Ox, the production process of Yulin Beef Bar was listed in the eighth batch of representative projects of the autonomous region-level intangible cultural heritage, and the Year of the Ox is expected to be more cattle!
Yulin beef bar has been following the trend of the times and changes, from bulk dishes to canned food, the taste has also expanded from the original taste of the two Cantonese people like, spicy taste is sold to the north, cumin flavor is specifically for the taste of northwestern people, spicy flavor is sold exclusively in Sichuan, the current sales of spicy beef bar has far exceeded the traditional taste of cow bar. "Try our hand-torn beef!" Li Hongjian handed over a small package, which is a new product developed by the company in the Year of the Ox, and will launch a series of leisure foods, which can not only serve wine to accompany meals, but also suitable for leisure snacks and expand new markets. In order to ensure the quantity and quality of raw materials, Li Hongjian established a cattle breeding base in Xinqiao Town, Fumian District and Mapo Town, Luchuan County, to plant pasture and breed new varieties of beef cattle; the company also innovated the development mode of the cattle industry, using soybeans as raw materials to produce humus bamboo, tofu residue for feeding cattle, and cow manure to breed earthworms or make organic fertilizer.
Borrowing the east wind of beef brisket powder, the cattle industry will be more cattle! Li Hongjian said happily that the official start of the Construction of Yulin Beef Brisket Powder Industrial Park last year will not only greatly expand the development space of the traditional characteristic flavor industry of Yulin Beef Brisket Powder, boost the "Yulin Brisket Powder" brand to the whole country, but also extend and lengthen the industrial chain, which will also have a great pulling effect on the cattle bar industry, and beef cattle breeding will become a new industry in the future, providing more and better raw materials for the cow bar. "We will also have big moves in the Year of the Ox!" Li Hongjian revealed that Yulin Niuba will join hands with Yulin Beef Brisket Powder to establish an industry association to jointly develop Yulin's cattle industry. At present, Yulin Niuba has a number of brands such as Uncle Niu, Wu Changchang, Wen Sixteen, Kwong's and so on, integrating resources and unifying geographical indication products will be more competitive in the market; and beef brisket powder is a rising star in the cattle industry, Guangxi Yulin Kuang's Niuba Food Co., Ltd., Yulin Changchang Food Co., Ltd., Yulin Laofang Food Co., Ltd., Jiusheng Agricultural Co., Ltd. and other more than 10 enterprises have joined the beef brisket powder industry, including Guangxi Yulin Kuang's Niuba Food Co., Ltd., Yulin Laofang Food Co., Ltd., Six companies, including Zeng 24 Food Co., Ltd., have begun to produce prepackaged brisket powder, and the strong alliance will make Yulin's cattle industry more cattle.
Raw stir-fried beef, Yulin golden signboard
Yulin beef ingredients pay attention to fierce stir-frying, in order to fully ensure that the ingredients are delicious and tender.
Heat the pan, put the oil down the pan, and then pour the freshly marinated beef into the pot, and the spoon keeps stir-frying. Plate tendons, bars, honeycomb belly, blind leaves, yellow throat, jumping and churning in the rising flames, and then put peppers, onions and garlic and other ingredients to continue to stir-fry, at this time the color of beef has become beautiful and edible, and the unique fragrance also bursts out... In less than two minutes, a plate of fried beef with full color and flavor was presented to the reporter, which was mouth-watering. A few days ago, the reporter witnessed the whole process of raw fried beef in the kitchen of the Su Fei Lao Fresh Beef Restaurant.
Su Feilao has been doing fried beef for more than ten years, from one store to three stores now, and has become famous in Yulin. To this end, in 2015, he also appeared on CCTV4's "Walking All Over China" column, becoming the first person to fry Yulin beef on CCTV. After the program was broadcast, the social response was great, and guests from outside the country came to Yulin to taste the taste of authentic raw fried beef. Foreigners who come to Yulin on business give up the breakfast provided by the hotel, run to the street to eat a bowl of beef brisket powder or beef flour, and then pick up a meal of raw fried beef sauce before going back, which is the perfect end of the trip. Su Feilao introduced that the materials used in his three stores are all local fresh beef in Yulin, and they are sold now every day.
Walking in the streets and alleys of Yulin, you will always encounter a variety of restaurants with beef sauce signs, and raw fried beef has become the golden sign of Yulin cuisine. Yulin beef stock is a general term, it contains beef, beef tendons, beef barxian, honeycomb belly, beef louver, yellow throat, beef intestines and so on. According to Huang Jijun, a well-versed in Yulin folk culture, the Yulin people have loved to eat cattle since ancient times, and under this custom, the consumption and trading of cattle products in urban and rural areas of Yulin is very prosperous.
Delicious Yulin stir-fried beef sauce.
The Yulin people's cattle feeding custom can be traced back to the former Qin Baiyue. In ancient times, the cattle offal and offal that were discarded by the Central Plains or the exotic feudal people who slaughtered cattle were cherished in the eyes of the meticulous Yulin people. These humble cattle scraps, or stewed raw stew, fried stew, or stir-fried beef, hot pot hot food, no matter how "untamed" the ingredients, Yulin people never hesitate to spend time and energy, in the persistence and exploration of hope. The Yulin people, who cherish the good use of cattle, always have a way to make them alive and fragrant. Behind the deliciousness, it is the Yulin people's reverence for nature and the respect and cherishing of ingredients, adhering to the Yulin people's insistence on soothing through the difficult years, and becoming an unwilling memory in the passing time.
Beef cattle breeding The "golden key" for the masses in the mountains to get rich
The tender green weeds that can be seen everywhere in the Yulin Mountains are the best feed for beef cattle.
Farmers are less idle, and farmers are busy. A few days ago, under the guidance of a villager in Shanwei Town, Beiliu City, this reporter finally met Liang Jiacai, a beef cattle farmer who was driving cattle back to the circle. Only to see a head of cattle eat fat and strong, the hair color is shiny, accompanied by a series of "mooing" sounds, the Liang family told reporters about their cattle raising to get rich.
Liang family is a shanwei town Shigen village people, since 2015 began to try beef cattle breeding, the current breeding scale of more than 60 heads, this year and a new cattle pen, intends to increase to more than 100 heads, the cattle business is doing booming, is one of the village's top breeding experts. Especially since 2018, the Liang family has responded to the call of local technicians to increase the breeding of Simmental hybrid cows, which can produce 2 calves a year, and each calf can be sold for more than 6,000 yuan for three or four months, which can sell more than 2,000 yuan more than the cattle that have not been improved, and the annual income is nearly 1 million yuan, becoming a well-known "cattle breeding champion".
"I have been to Shanwei Town many times to investigate, and found that this place is located under the Dayong Mountain, with good ecology, mild climate, moderate rainfall, good quality of beef cattle raised, and very popular with customers." A cadre surnamed Jiang from the Yulin Municipal Agriculture and Rural Affairs Bureau who accompanied the reporter said that in recent years, Shanwei Town has improved and hybridized local breeds by using excellent breeds such as Simmental bull semen, and the hybrid cattle produced have been favored by the local people because of their strong disease resistance and short growth cycle. At present, the "frozen essence improvement" distribution technology has been accepted by more and more beef cattle farmers, which has not only become the "golden key" for the masses in mountainous areas to get rich, but also raised hope for them to move towards a well-off life.
In the beef cattle farm of Pan Qiang, a villager in Wanping Village, Beiliu Minle Town, a large beef cow is slowly moving in the sports area, leisurely enjoying sunbathing. According to a person in charge of the Yulin Liaison Office of the Chinese Farmers and Entrepreneurs Association, the beef cattle breed in the farm are also Simmental beef cattle, and the price of an adult cow is about 20,000 yuan to 30,000 yuan. Whether it is Liang Jiacai's beef cattle farm or Pan Qiang's beef cattle farm, its development prospects are considerable, and it has a great effect on the people to become rich and well-off, and to improve people's livelihood.
In recent years, the price of beef cattle market has continued to improve, and the Yulin Municipal Party Committee and the Yulin Municipal Government have fully combined local characteristics, adhered to the combination of "external introduction" and "internal training", and regarded the beef cattle industry as a "revenue-increasing industry" for poverty alleviation. The first is to choose breeding enterprises with a large number of breeding and a high level of scale, increase support, accelerate the transformation and upgrading of enterprises, and build beef cattle breeding enterprises, including companies, cooperatives, family farms, farms, etc., leading the majority of farmers to walk out of a "cattle" road to get rid of poverty and get rich. The second is to actively advocate the concept of talent return, activate local talents and all kinds of outstanding talents who have gone out to see the world and have development concepts to return to their hometowns, devote themselves to the great cause of poverty alleviation and rural revitalization, establish a benchmark for rural industrial development and prosperity, and "light a light" for the poor people to become stable and rich.
"Spring Cow" welcomes spring
Sing about the new changes of the times
Xiushui Spring Cow Color Tea Literary and Art Team performed the "Singing Spring Cow".
"Today is exactly Lichun. On Spring Day, Yulin has the traditional custom of singing and dancing spring cows..." On February 3, in the courtyard of the residents next to the Xiushui Community Cultural Center in Yulin City's Yudong New District, Tan Youyou couldn't help but raise his hand, waved the multicolored whip in his hand, and demonstrated a dance action to catch cattle. He told reporters, "Because of the epidemic this year and other reasons, in order to cooperate with the government's prevention and control work, our traditional spring singing activities in Lichun this year have also had to be cancelled..."
In Tan's friendly home, props for singing spring cattle such as ox heads, ox bodies, bucket hats, and ploughs filled a room, and he lovingly sorted out these props while humming songs. He told reporters that Lichun is the first of the twenty-four solar terms of the lunar calendar, which not only symbolizes the arrival of spring, but also heralds the beginning of a year's agricultural activities, and since ancient times, from the official to the folk have attached great importance to this festival, and gradually formed the traditional custom of singing spring cattle.
The tune of Yulin singing spring cattle that has been handed down to this day is to use and absorb the yulin folk song and dance cow lady opera and the tea picking opera tune of Guidongnan. During the performance, two people support the bull head and play the cow, two or more people play the cowherd and the cow sister, sing and dance while chasing the cow, and sing the tune to sigh the cow, which is actually a metaphor. The music includes "Spring Cow Tune", "Tea Picking Tune", "Mountain Song Minor" and many other pieces of music, of which "Spring Cow Tune" is the main singing cavity, and the accompaniment uses the traditional eight-tone accompaniment of Yulin, and occasionally inserts some tea picking tones and mountain songs to assist rapping. "Because we have a large number of folk artists who sing spring cows, sing unicorns, sing cow operas, sing mountain songs, and sing tea picking. Every New Year's Festival, we all like to sing a few songs on the big stage, and there are many people who can sing and sing. Therefore, in 2012, at the suggestion of the cultural department, Xiushui also set up the first singing Spring Cow Literary and Art Team in Yulin! At the beginning of its establishment, there were more than 50 light team members, which shows how long the historical tradition of singing spring cattle in Xiushui is. ”
After the founding of New China, the performance form of singing spring cattle has changed throughout Yulin. According to Yulin City's "Compilation of Intangible Cultural Heritage Census Materials", with the development of the times, the material conditions and spiritual needs of villagers have improved, and "singing spring cows" has later become a popular "cow opera" or "singing wren" and "little wren's opera" popular in various townships, spreading positive energy through some concise and moving stories, not only inheriting traditional arts, deepening the connotation of singing spring cattle, but also enriching the spiritual life of villagers. On June 8, 2011, Xingye County held the first Wren Opera Performance at the County People's Hall. At once, 22 groups from all over the county were attracted to participate. The actors of the Wren Troupe presented a wonderful intangible cultural feast for the audience with their simple and loud singing voices and original performances. It has pushed the form of singing spring cattle to a higher level, and has also become the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list in our city.
Now, whether it is singing spring cows, dancing spring cows, or performing small wrens, in the ancient land of Yulin, folk artists use this cultural carrier to constantly sing the new changes and new lives of the era.
Written | Yulin Daily all-media reporter Qiu Lin, Liang Zhihua, Xuan Fan, Chen Weiping
Editor-in-charge | Feng Yu
Proofreading | Zhang Guanzhong
Audit | Zou Jiang
Producer | Huang Zhenhai
Produced by | Yulin Daily all-media
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