Li Dong, the nineteenth of the twenty-four solar terms of the lunar calendar, is not only the time for harvest sacrifices and feasts to be solemnly held, but also the season of cold winds. There are customs and activities such as "October Shuo", "Qin Year Shou", "Winter Clothing Festival", "Harvest Festival" and so on. At this time, in the north, it is the Moon of Mengdong, where "the water freezes and the ground freezes", but in the south, it is the weather of Xiaoyang Spring.
The winter in Huizhou generally begins with a light rain in the early morning. This is a good omen for the traditional Huizhou people, who especially like the long and not intense cold of the Jiangnan winter. After the establishment of winter, it is winter, huizhou in early winter, the breeze is slightly cool, and the water waves are not happy!
Regardless of the north and south, Li Dong will eat dumplings on this day. Because dumplings are derived from the saying "when the child is made". Winter is the turn of autumn and winter, so dumplings at the time of "handing over" children cannot be eaten.
In the past, Huizhou people, especially people in the Shendu area of Nanxiang, Shexian County, went to Beijing to take the exam, went out to do business or went out to learn art, before leaving, the family had to get together to eat a meal of dumplings and then go out, which means a wish for those who are about to leave their hometown and stay away from their relatives, tell him this long trip, don't forget the baggage and clothes he carries, don't forget his ambitions for this trip (the harmonic sound of the baggage), don't forget his hometown, and the expectations and waiting of his family. The so-called "relatives have a lot of parting words, all in the dumplings."
The "baggage" in the bowl
"Fukado baggage" belongs to a kind of dumpling, but strangely, the skin of dumplings elsewhere is round, while the skin of "fukado baggage" is square.
Originally, in ancient times, there was no suitcase, and when the Huizhou people wanted to go out, the mother or wife would take a square soil cloth, put the clothes and dry food needed outside neatly on it, and then tie the diagonal knots to make a bag. The most common thing at The Shendu Pier is the baggage on the pedestrians, and over time, some restaurant owners imitate the shape of the baggage to make a "Shendu baggage" that can be eaten.
Pork, shiitake mushrooms, ham, dried shrimp, bamboo shoot slices, soy sauce, vinegar... Just as Huizhou women put clothes into the baggage of their husbands and sons, Huizhou people put the mixed filling into the square dumpling skin, tightened on either side, and then wrapped around in a circle to pinch the head, and the delicious "deep crossing baggage" took shape. The dumpling skin of the "baggage" is made with salt and flour, so it is very smooth and tough, and it is accompanied by a filling made with a hui-style cooking method.
The "deep ferry baggage" can be boiled, steamed, and fried, and each customer will not wait for more than a minute, which meets the needs of pedestrians in a hurry, so it is deeply loved by Huizhou people. But what huizhou people can't put down the most is the original taste of Huizhou in the "deep ferry baggage", as well as the family's thoughts and expectations.
What do you think? Li Dong, come and eat The Dumplings of Fukado