"Chef's Table" is a series of themed activities initiated by Beijing foodie Huo Quan and launched in cooperation with this magazine, which aims to pursue the traditional dishes that are disappearing, visit those chefs who are "like a practice, like a mill" in their cooking skills, and excavate and disseminate traditional Chinese cooking skills and culture. In one session and one meeting, a chef with a real traditional skill will preside over a traditional cuisine, and the guests will be chefs, gourmets and connoisseurs in the catering industry.
Planning/Huo Quan
Production/Yu Peng
Interview/ Chu Hong-yan
Photography / Zhang Yang
Dishes, venue support / Beijing Qingyun Building
Chef of this issue: Yu Peng
Born in Manchu Zhenghuangqi, a native of Beijing. In 1988, he entered the fangshan restaurant and studied under Mr. Xiaofeng, one of the top ten famous chefs in China, and laid a solid foundation in court cuisine and Jinglu cuisine, and was the earliest batch of consultants invited by the Palace Museum to engage in the study of Qing history, and had a deep accumulation of Manchu Han xi. Since 2009, he has been in charge of the reopening of Beijing Qingyun Building, and is currently the executive chef of Qingyun Building.
The head of the chef's table in this issue is Master Yu Peng, the "old man" of the Department of Fangshan, who has studied and worked in Beijing Fangshan Restaurant for nearly 20 years. In 2009, Qingyun Building, a long-established brand of Beijing Lucai, reopened, with Yu Peng as executive chef ever since.
Century-old Qingyun Building
Founded in 1820, the Old Qingyun Building is located in Yandai Xie Street, just one step away from the "Silver Ingot GuanShan", one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Yanjing, and was once a place where poetry and wine lingered in the past. At that time, Prince Rui, Prince Gong, Prince Qing, Duke Dingguo, Duke An Guo, Marquis Wuding, etc. were all frequent guests here. The late famous writer Mr. Tang Lusun mentioned the Qingyun Building in Shichahai many times in his writings. Later, Qingyun Building was closed because the boss chose another business, and the backbone of the original store was scattered elsewhere, gradually forming the famous "Eight Buildings" in Beijing.
The later owner of the original site of the old Qingyun Building was surnamed Zhu and was engaged in the framing and painting industry. Around 1990, Mr. Qi Gong came to frame the painting, heard that this place was the old site of the famous Qingyun Building, and inscribed the words "QingyunLou Restaurant" on the spot. Zhu Chengxiang, the third son of the Zhu family, has always hoped to restore the traditional old brand of Qingyun Lou, so he rebuilt and restored the old appearance of Qingyun Lou on the original site, and began to officially operate Lu Cuisine in 2009. The plaque of the restaurant is inscribed by Mr. Qi Gong.
Group photo of guests
In this issue of Chef's Table, we gathered with senior chefs and diners in the industry at Qingyun Building.
Huo Quan
Love to eat and understand the beijing food,
The jianghu people called "Huo Ye",
Convener of the Feast Collection.
At the beginning of the event, Huo Ye, a beijing foodie and chef's table planner, said: "The chef's table in this issue mainly displays old dishes of imitation meals, especially reproducing the 'mud work' in the Manchu Han table. Nowadays, for various reasons, mud work has gradually disappeared on the table, but it has several functions as a cooking technique and culture: one is to show the chef's cooking skills; the other is to express the respect of the host of the guest, and express the owner's emotions in various ways; and the third is a Chinese food culture inheritance. We can't just look at the problem from the perspective of a full meal, the traditional cooking skills are not only to show the chef's skills, but also the spiritual level. ”
Kidney bean rolls
Emerald Royal Fan
This menu
Six cold dishes
Cold spots
Pea yellow, kidney bean rolls
Soups
Longjing bamboo thorn
Hot dish
Luohan prawn, golden toad looking at the moon
Grab and sauté the tenderloin and sauté the carrot sauce
Peach kernel duck square, palace gate to offer fish
A pint of tofu, emerald royal fan
hot spot
Minced meat, small nest head
dim sum
Walnut crisp, peanut crisp
Swan Lake, Moon Palace Jade Rabbit
Fried peach duck square
Master Yu Peng introduced: "Mud work is a common raw material processing method in court cuisine, generally shrimp, fish, tofu, pork or chicken are beaten into puree, seasoned, shaped, and made into dishes using cooking techniques such as steaming, steaming, and frying. Generally speaking, there will be one or two dishes of clay work at a table, and today is dedicated to showing this skill in court cuisine, so several dishes of mud work are made. ”
Guests talk freely
Master Zhen Jianjun, who was also seated, was deeply familiar with court cuisine and Zhuangguan cuisine, and he said: "Mud is divided into soft mud and hard mud. Soft mud is directly hit with water, no starch, adding starch is hard mud. For example, the fish is boneless, scraped, in a 1:1 ratio in the fish meat into the onion ginger water, from slow to fast to whisk, this is the soft mud, beaten out of the fish balls are more tender than the south tofu. The Zhaoyuan balls and Sixi balls of Lu Cai must be added with starch when they are made, which belongs to the hard mud. ”
In this group of dishes of the day, Luohan prawns, golden toad Wangyue, peach kernel duck fang, Yipin tofu, Longjing bamboo sun are all imitation dishes of mud work, and the stir-fried tenderloin is one of the four major crab stir-fry of the court, and the fried carrot sauce is one of the four major sauces of the court.
Moon Palace Jade Rabbit
Nowadays, the dishes of mud work have rarely appeared in restaurants for mass consumption, because of their complicated processes and time-consuming time, they have gradually faded out of the menu, and are only specially made in customized banquets, and some also belong to the hidden menus of Lao Lu Restaurant. There are many exquisite dishes in the mud work, some of which seem to be not difficult, but the test is the chef's basic skills and hand experience. To this end, we have specially interviewed Chef Yu Peng, the manager of the chef's table in this issue, and the following articles are detailed about the cooking methods and production keys of the mud work dishes.
Luohan prawns
raw material
Bohai shrimp, Jinhua ham grains, cucumber peel, black sesame seeds, starch, salt, sugar, monosodium glutamate, soy sauce, green onion and ginger shreds, cooking wine, broth, egg white, lard, starch.
Method of production
Cut the shrimp from the third section, back open, remove the sand line;
Take the shrimp meat in the second half, cut off the fascia, add salt, monosodium glutamate, egg white, lard, pat the starch, beat the starch into a blender, dip the black sesame seeds, brew into the shrimp shell, stick the cucumber skin crushed, ham grains, add 50% hot oil, wait for the oil pan to bubble, turn off the heat, soak for 3 minutes to 5 minutes, fish out the drainage oil, turn on the heat, wait for the oil temperature to rise to 60% heat, re-fry until the shrimp tail is golden in color, drain the oil and plate;
Heat the oil into the pot to 40% or 50%, sauté the onion and ginger shreds, add the shrimp head, while sautéing and constantly beating the shrimp head, until the two sides change color, shrimp oil, cooking wine, add broth, sugar, salt, point soy sauce to color, out of the pot and plate.
Production key
The heat of the frying must be grasped well, and the oil temperature should be raised when the frying is repeated, mainly to make the raw materials spit out excess oil and increase the taste, such as poor control and easy to nest oil, affecting the taste.
Comments
This dish is also called "two-eat prawns". According to Master Yu, Bohai shrimp divide spring shrimp and autumn shrimp, in the past to make shrimp puree, to pad a piece of pork skin on the cutting board, with the back of the knife to chop the shrimp into a fine paste, on the one hand, it can absorb the oil of the pig skin, on the other hand, to avoid the smell of the wood on the cutting board and fine chips mixed in. Shrimp head using oil stewing technique, in the past cooking basically do not put soy sauce, knock shrimp head, simmer out shrimp brain oil, so that it appears natural orange-red, but because of the decline in raw material quality and chefs are not familiar with the technique, so in the cooking time to add tomato sauce, coloring materials, etc., to achieve the effect of red and bright.
Golden Toad looks at the moon
Abalone, chicken breast, pigeon egg, cucumber skin, green beans, winter shoots, white fungus, shiitake mushrooms, broth, starch, salt, onion and ginger water, cooking wine.
Clean the abalone, cut into thick slices and set aside;
Cook the pigeon eggs, peel them, cut them in half and set aside;
Puree the chicken breast and season with salt, green onion and ginger water and cooking wine;
Make the abalone fillet as the base, put half a pigeon egg on it, use a tool to spread the chicken puree on it to form a toad, decorate the outline with cucumber skin, dot the green beans as eyes, steam for 5 minutes on the drawer, and take it out;
Wash the winter shoots and shiitake mushrooms, cut into strips, simmer them with the white fungus in broth, season with salt, white sauce, pour into the dish, put the steamed "golden toad", garnish and plate.
The prototype of this dish is "toad abalone", according to Master Yu, it belongs to the traditional court cuisine, using dried purple abalone and shrimp puree. Later, after being improved by the chef of the imitation restaurant, the dish was cooked with fresh abalone, and the chef used chicken puree on the same day, and the image was more realistic.
A poinsettia of tofu
Northern tofu, pork, shrimp, sea cucumber, carrot slices, green onion, ginger, egg white, cooking wine, salt, starch, broth.
Mince the pork, shrimp and sea cucumber, add shallots, ginger, cooking wine and salt to mix well and mix into three fresh fillings;
Put the northern tofu in boiling water with salt to remove the bean smell, fish it out and put it into gauze, dry the water, add egg white, cooking wine, salt and starch, and put it into a blender to make a puree;
Take a large round dish, spread half of the tofu paste into a circle, put three fresh fillings, add the other half of the tofu puree to smooth, use carrot slices to make orchids, shiitake mushrooms, tomato sauce to make plum blossoms, cucumber skin to make bamboo, steamed on the drawer, take out, surrounded by blanched rapeseed, mushrooms, cherries garnish;
Add broth, cooking wine, salt and starch to the pan, hook the second-rate mustard and drizzle on the plate.
The representative dish of Fangshan is the master of national treasure cooking and the third generation of court cuisine of Beijing Fangshan Restaurant, Mr. Dong Shiguo, who uses ordinary raw materials to produce high-grade dishes, which are pleasing to the eye and have a long aftertaste.
★ The above content is excerpted from the December 2018 issue of Chinese Cuisine, welcome to forward to your circle of friends. All content of this WeChat account is unauthorized, please refuse to reprint, infringement will be investigated. If you need to reprint, please contact the background, and can only be reprinted after obtaining authorization. When reprinting, please indicate the source and author's signature in a prominent position.
A wonderful review of past issues
Chef's Table (1): The traditional origin of court cuisine and Zhuangguan cuisine passed down from Zhen Jianjun
Chef's Table (2) – Feng Derui: Halal classics recreated
And much more
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