#泸州风物正当红 #
Regardless of the banquet of the north and south restaurants, it is inevitable that the same set of formulas, the dish has become a formula is already boring, not to mention the prosperous business of the restaurant, the seat is often full, so even the old formula dish also has more apprentice palm stove, shoddily made, in the middle of this formula dish want to eat a little more chic or good taste, good fire dish, that is naturally the edge of the wood for fish.
Therefore, people who socialize more, when they go to the banquet to think of the old cliché, often feel interested, and when it comes to eating, they think that they are not tasting the delicacies, but fulfilling the obligations of the guests. Over time, home-cooked dishes are fresh and delicious, so a chef opens a family-style small restaurant, not only the environment is different from that of ordinary restaurants, but also the dishes are not conventional. There are even chefs who don't set up shops at all. Specially braised, only one table of dishes, up to two tables of home-style light dishes. This is the pioneer of Luzhou private house cuisine in the Republic of China period.
All the guests who have eaten this kind of dish are very satisfied, word of mouth, fame, can be much better than advertising, today's self-media to do some script mode promotion. At that time, dignitaries and scholars invited each other, and even some people had to book in advance to eat their dishes, which was the real skill. Although it is far from the public, from an economic point of view, I am just serving my fixed group, appreciating and being appreciated at the same time, which is also a style.
The older generation said that during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression and after the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, luzhou city had a chef surnamed Mei, because the second oldest in line, what is the name is not clear to everyone, used to call him Mei Er, more polite people call him Master Mei, his dishes need to be booked about a week in advance, no matter how high your social status, how rich, is a big official or a brother in the robe, or a celebrity, the rules are not broken, only make a table of dishes, quite a cow of a person. Mr. Yi Jinqiu, who went to Taiwan many years later, is still remembered, this article is based on his reminiscences, thanks to Mr. Yi's record, so that the style of the Republic of China in Luzhou can be re-presented.
Mei Er is very interesting, he usually only makes a table of dishes, first ask the number of guests, then open a menu, send the host family to check, the host family has seen the general word, occasionally will encounter some top diners are more knowledgeable people, but also changed at most one or two dishes, but not the reason for the dish is not good, most of the guests are not suitable for eating taboos.
Therefore, mei er dish is different from the old formula dish from form to content, and can be described as a master in the master.
Mr. Yi Jinqiu remembers a banquet during the Republic of China period, just to invite Mei Er to do the private room of the palm stove, was the administrative supervision commissioner of the seventh district of Sichuan Province at that time Liu Youfu invited guests, the six or seven people in the same industry were the upper class at that time, to put it bluntly, they were all people who had eaten and seen, a meal down, drinking the Wen family's big song, eating particularly satisfactorily, Mr. Yi Jinqiu was a high-level foodie, with memory to record this table dish, today's wine sellers also shared it with everyone.
Cold cuts – shredded chicken noodles
Hot belly
Steamed silver carp
Mushroom tendon soup
Baby ginger duck shredded
Grilled chicken mushrooms
Ham stewed pork trotters
Two dishes of rice (shredded beef with green pepper, black tempeh with bitter melon)
These nine dishes are not rich in feeling, but each one has endless aftertaste.
Let's start with this cold cut – chicken shredded cold noodles
The first dish on this table is a large plate of strange flavored chicken shreds, the chicken shreds are made of fat and tender hen breasts and chicken thighs, just cooked thoroughly, torn into thin strips by hand, note that it is not cut with a knife, today someone bites and says it is unhygienic, so wear gloves. Underneath the shredded chicken is the cold noodles, and under the cool noodles are the cucumber shreds. Shredded chicken is topped with soy sauce, vinegar (as little as possible), chili oil, tahini sauce and mustard sauce (not too much), and then use chopsticks, note that people already have a sense of chopsticks.
Mix the noodles well, this dish is both noodles and snacks, before drinking, pad the stomach, not counting it as drinking on an empty stomach. It is said that at that time, it was beneficial to the body, and it was not easy to get drunk later. Mr. Yi Jinqiu said that the high-end formal banquets of the more upscale restaurants in Sichuan did not use peppers, but this Mei'er home-cooked dish was to be used.
The second course is hot belly.
This believes that everyone is not strange, today there are also people to get, the belly is also called the tip of the belly, a pork belly torn off the belly is only enough to fry a plate, encounter the stomach is originally small, not enough, is not a very economical dish, and tearing off the belly is also quite laborious, not as good as the whole stir-fry, this dish tests patience, and fried over the fire is not delicious, Mei Er This dish is fire work, the average person fried too tender belly may be raw, fried too cooked and can not bite, and he is just right, is he to take the consumables, as soon as he gets on the table, he will eat it while it is hot, the taste is delicious and crisp.
I heard Brother Mao tell me that these dishes were still being made in Luzhou in the 1990s, steamed silver carp (Lian Balang), which can be steamed with silver carp, steamed in the original cage, generally two, half a pound to a pound, cut into about inches long segments, seasoning rice noodles, salt, spicy bean paste, cooking wine, vegetable oil and so on. At the bottom is the cowhide dish, which is said to be a little older than crucian carp and carp, but the steaming is tender and delicious, and I have never tried it.
He uses dried pork trotter tendons to swell, simmers chicken soup to soften, add mushrooms, salt, soy sauce, continue simmering for a period of time, add thick mushroom water and vinegar when cooking, put some pepper in the soup bowl, throw a few tender vegetable leaves, and after the first three dishes of chicken shredded cold noodles, hot belly, and powder steamed silver carp, come to a bowl of mushroom soup to make people feel fresh and refreshing.
As for the next ginger duck shreds, roasted chicken shredded mushrooms, ham stewed pork trotters, and two dishes of rice, there is not much to say. In fact, today's few dishes are not high-end and stunning, and it is quite okay in that era, after all, at that time, the material was relatively scarce. Not necessarily today.
The times are changing, and making extraordinary in the ordinary is probably the higher realm of cooking.