Guilin impressions
The world knows that "Guilin is a world of mountains and rivers", there are countless major scenic spots outside the city, and Guilin is a famous historical and cultural city and a famous city of national folk culture. Guilin Ancient name eight gui, since the establishment of Qin County, this ancient city has accumulated thousands of years of deep history and culture. Guilin is also one of the important birthplaces of Chinese civilization. Zhuang, Yao, Miao, Dong and many other ethnic minorities have flourished here for thousands of years, and the diverse ethnic cultures have blossomed in the land of Bagui, making the landscapes and rivers of Guilin spiritual and become vivid. The Zhuang, Yao, and Dong people, who live in Longsheng, Guilin, Guangxi, have been cultivating and opening up fields for generations, and asking for grain from the mountains.
The impression of Guilin is what I miss, and I am looking forward to guilin for the third time. I remember the first time I came to Guilin to Yangshuo, saw the scenery, tasted the characteristic beer fish; the second time I came to Guilin to go to Longsheng Longji, the scale and characteristics of the Longji Rice Terraces opened my eyes; this time I walked into Guangnan Village, integrated into the life of the Dong people, and lived a lively and festive Dong Year with them, looking forward to, looking forward to~
Meitu trailer
Huang Luo Yao Village
In China, there is such a magical village, and every woman in their village only cuts her hair once in her life, that is, Huang luoyao village in Longsheng Autonomous County, Guangxi. Huangluo Yao Village is located in longsheng longji scenic area, is the only Yao village in longji thirteen villages. You will pass by here on the way back from the Longji Jinkeng Rice Terraces, so be sure to go to the village to have a look. The village is inhabited by the same color of the Red Yao ethnic group, since ancient times, Hongyao women have the traditional habit of storing long hair, there are more than 60 people with hair more than one meter in the village, and the longest reaches about 2 meters, which is known as the world's first long hair village.
Hongyao women can sing and dance, and performing on the Huangluo Opera Stage in the village is their main source of income. Performance time 30-40 minutes, ticket price 80 yuan, in fact, I feel still a little expensive, after turning the village tangled for a while or bought a ticket, after all, this kind of performance to see less than once, the young people in the village slowly out of the deep mountains, by the influence of the outside world has no longer left long hair, perhaps do not know in the decades, the long hair of the Hongyao tribe will no longer exist.
The best part of the show was showing their long hair and grooming process. The red Yao woman not only has long hair, but also is dark and bright and it is difficult to see white hair. It is said that this is because every household in Hongyao Village will have a clay pot next to the fire pit, which contains the stored rice water. After roasting and heating fermentation in the fire pond, Taomi water has become a unique hair care secret recipe for Hongyao women. They freshen up every few days, each grooming first let the long hair fully absorb the nutritional energy in the secret "Tao rice water", and then wash it with mountain spring water and comb it to dry, which is the secret of hongyao long hair maintenance in long hair village.
The women of Huangluo Yaozhai have a total of three hairs in their lifetime, one is the hair that falls off when they usually groom, one is the hair cut when they are 18 years old, and the other is the hair that remains on the head. They are very particular about their hair, and women cut their hair at the age of 18 and never cut their hair again. Minors' hair can be exposed outside, and when adulthood, the hair of unmarried women is wrapped in cloth and cannot be viewed by outsiders. The married woman's hair is coiled and placed on the head, and it is not until after marriage that the cloth can be removed, and the hair is coiled on the head, and a bunless circle is coiled. When a child is born after marriage, a bun representing the child will be added to the forehead. So from a woman's hairstyle, you know whether the woman is married or not, whether she has children or not.
Hongyao women like to wear Zhuo red clothes, their clothes are very beautiful, but also very exquisite, a set of clothes are hand embroidered to take three years. The clothes are embroidered with various patterns and patterns, which are very ethnic. The costumes of the HongYao ethnic group were included in the national intangible cultural heritage list in 2014.
Golden bamboo village
Walk through Huangluo Yao Village, and stay in the homestay in Jinzhu Zhuang Village at night. Here is inhabited by another ethnic group in Longsheng Autonomous County, the Zhuang people. Located in Longji Town, Jinzhu Zhuangzhai is the first village of the Thirteen Villages of Longji, named after a piece of golden bamboo in front of the village. With 98 households and a population of more than 430, it is a typical Zhuang village in China, known as the first village in North Zhuang.
The architectural style of the stilt house of Jinzhu Zhuangzhai is uniquely maintained intact, and here there are totems of the Zhuang Moyi King, Zhuang Lianwu, ancient zhaimen, stone dragon bodies, ethnic cultural centers, national song and dance pings, centuries-old maple trees, centuries-old wells, centuries-old fir trees, etc., telling the centuries-old history of zhuang vicissitudes.
Here you can hear beautiful and beautiful mountain songs, the Zhuang people are very hospitable, when eating, you can taste the Qing Dynasty royal tribute "Longji Tea" and the Longji Water Wine, which is called "Oriental Magic Water" by Westerners, as well as the Zhuang family's five-colored sticky rice.
Jinzhu ethnic style meal bamboo tube steamed chicken, bamboo tube glutinous rice and pure bamboo cups, bamboo bowl tableware, villagers will sing a toast song to persuade wine, when you are drunk and hot, a group of elegantly dressed Zhuang girls will take a cup of Longji water wine, sing the Zhuang toast that has been passed down for generations.
Pipa Competition
From Jinzhu Zhuangzhai to Guangnan Village, the weather is not too good, several hours of travel in the car helplessly closed eyes to recuperate, this section is all mountain roads, play mobile phones will be dizzy, can only sleep in the car.
The first time I went to Guangnan Village, I was still full of expectations, and stopped at the Red Army Square in Jiangkou Village, Lejiang, where there was a grand and joyful music competition.
Pipa teams from Guangxi, Hunan and Guizhou from the Dong ethnic regions of Guangxi, Hunan and Guizhou met to celebrate the annual "Dong New Year Festival", and at the same time an audio-visual feast - "Guixiangqian Three Provinces (Districts) Dong Pipa Song Contest" was staged here. "Village Jinlai, Village Jinlai, Village Golden Pipe Change, Yala Yala... (Chinese interpretation: Dong zhai is good, Dong zhai is good, Dong zhai is everywhere to change the new look, Yala Yala ya ）
The Red Army Square was crowded with people, and the plummeting temperature still could not stop the enthusiasm of the masses, and people dressed in costumes came to the square under the Drum Tower. The Dong family oil tea is fragrant, the silver jewelry worn on the Dong family sister clangs, the colorful costumes reflect the smiling faces of the Dong compatriots, and the shutter sound of the camera cannot hide the melodious Dong songs and pipa sounds. The 20 participating teams "rubbed their fists" offstage, and with the sound of firecrackers, the audiovisual feast officially began. Various pipa literary and art teams have appeared on the stage, playing one moving song after another with the pipa in their hands, showing the traditional culture of the Dong people and inheriting the red memory, while the songs of poverty alleviation have also played the strongest sound of the nation of "poverty alleviation feelings of gratitude to the party and striving for a new starting point".
Quang Nam Village
In Guilin Longsheng Autonomous County, the mountains and rivers are beautiful, and many ethnic groups live together on this beautiful land. In the past, in addition to going to Yangshuo, I went to Longji Rice Terraces, but I didn't know that Guangnan Village in Longsheng County was also a very distinctive travel destination worth exploring.
Nandong Village is located in Pingping Town, Longsheng Autonomous County, Guangxi, China, with a beautiful natural environment. The scenery and clear water are not enough to describe her, only 24 square kilometers of Guangnan Village, two rivers merge into one river, the small river turns seven ways, the big river eight curves, the river forms a six-sided field, five natural tuns are staggered between the two rivers and six hills and fifteen bends, in addition to the dry rail stilt house tile houses all over the place, there are 26 meters high Guangnan Drum Tower, more than 200 years of history of Xingpo Wind and Rain Bridge, in addition to many drum towers, pavilions, well pavilions, dotted in the surrounding mountains surrounded by a large basin of mountain depressions, staggered, beautiful.
The Dong brocade weaving process in the village is very distinctive, different shapes and clusters, different colors, all rely on a pair of skillful hands, turning the colored threads into rainbow-like brocade. Dong Jin's craft is now slowly being lost, and there are only five old people left in the whole village who still have such crafts, and it is a pity that young people are not willing to learn these cultural treasures.
There are many cultural architectural monuments in The village: the wooden structure of the fifteen-storey eaves Guangnan Drum Tower, the Xingpo Wind and Rain Bridge with the tile eaves of the stone pier wooden corridor, the unique stone stone, the Temple of Literature, the Temple of Wu, the Temple of the Three Kings, the Temple of the Medicine King, the Temple of Rice Water, the Gospel Hall, the Satan temple, etc.
The people in the village are also very enthusiastic and kind, the village is nestled on the banks of the Jiajiang River, the new and old buildings alternate, and there are many Dongxiang buildings under construction, I prefer to go to the old building complex of Jiajiang Village, where there are traces of the passage of time, there are the imprints of cultural heritage, and there are natural and simple ethnic customs.
Joy in the Year of Dong
Every year, the first day of November is the New Year of the Dong people, and the Dong people all over the country will celebrate the Dong New Year on this day with a variety of customs that have been passed down for thousands of years. To be honest, when I was young, I was especially looking forward to the New Year, when the New Year was both lively and happy, the family was reunited, there were New Year gifts, delicious food, and beautiful fireworks. Now that I have grown up and become more aware, the year has no longer the original lively energy.
Walking into Guangnan Village, Longsheng County, Guilin, Guangxi, I heard that they were going to celebrate the Dong New Year.
The Dong people will hold ancestral worship ceremonies in the New Year, slaughtering pigs and slaughtering cattle, led by the elders of the village, and the Dong people of various surnames gather in front of the Drum Tower to worship and remember the ancestors.
Playing sticky rice is an indispensable performance project, villagers dressed in Dong costumes, pounding glutinous rice with a bar, soon stirred into soft sticky tooth fragrant rice, the whole village will come forward, you piece, I grab the hot rice dumplings, maybe the sticky rice dumplings represent the harvest and good luck in the next year, everyone wants to take this luck home.
Major festivals are indispensable to the pipa song of the Dong people, dressed in gorgeous ethnic costumes, in the Dong people, both men and women pipa songs are a must learn skill, with simple dance, the sound of the pipa around the ears, the song of the Dong people is as beautiful as the morning song of the birds. The joy of the New Year hung on the face, and the high-pitched voice of the chorus seemed to overshadow the height of the drum tower, echoing in the mind for a long time.
Immediately after that, the Quang Nam Village Intangible Cultural Heritage Dance Grass Dragon began, more than 10 Dong people wearing yellow straw hats, yellow suits, and straw tied around their waists, rhythmically accompanied by sonorous gongs and drums, danced the golden grass dragon in their hands, and staged wonderful "dragon play beads", "snowflake roofing", "panlong hitting pillars", "giant dragon soaring" and other actions, magnificent, radiant, dazzling, they interpreted the spirit and majesty of the dragon to the fullest, and won the applause of the audience present.
The hundred family banquets in the evening filled the Drum Tower Square, although the weather was cooler at night, but it could not stop the enthusiasm of people to celebrate the Dong New Year. Hundreds of family banquets, hundreds of families, hundreds of meals, friends from all over the world sat together, in front of the drum tower that has gone through vicissitudes, held up fine wine, blessed each other, and looked forward to a better tomorrow.
The New Year is naturally indispensable to fireworks, only the colorful fireworks in the sky take off, accompanied by the sound of thunder, which is the perfect Taste of the Year. The story of the Nian Beast has been heard since childhood, and the New Year is always indispensable to set off fireworks, and the sound of thunder scares away all the emotions that are not so popular.
The lively Dong New Year is celebrated, a variety of special programs are wonderful, and every minute and every second of the New Year does not want to be wasted, happy, happy, happy.
The finale of the bonfire party appeared, the torches were lit, and the atmosphere was instantly pushed to a new climax, people held hands shoulder to shoulder, singing loudly, dancing cheerfully, and enjoying the strong festive atmosphere.
Fire pit culture
Do you know the Fire Pond culture of the Dong people?
The most primitive function of the fire pond is to heat and cook food, but in fact, the function of the fire pond in the traditional life of the Dong people has been greatly expanded. The Dong people's belief in the fire pond is extremely respectful, making the status of the fire pond the center of gravity of the entire wooden building. Because they were honored and forbidden to cross the fire pond, they regarded the fire as the god of fire and a symbol of family warmth, so the fire pond developed from the original cooking function to deliberative, hospitality and ancestor worship.
In Quang Nam in December, the weather did not imagine the warmth of central and southern China, and the sky was gloomy and gloomy, as if to squeeze out nectar. Walking out of the house to put on a thick coat, back to the house to sit around the fire is the happiest moment.
Ever since fire was invented, it has been inextricably linked to food. Walking into the antique wooden house, the fire in the fire pond has been lit in advance, and the direct top of the fire pond is hung with a turn to make air-dried bacon, which is particularly tempting.
Lunch is an authentic Dongjia flavor, with the special oil tea being stir-fried directly in the fire pit. Several iron shelves were propped up around the fire, and the wooden boards became ready-made tables, and the soup pots were boiled on the middle fire, which could both heat and cook, and this form of eating was the first time I had seen it, full of national wisdom.
The ingredients of Dong cuisine are self-sufficient, chicken, duck and fish meat are all native game of mountains and streams, in order to facilitate the storage of food, in addition to making bacon, they also marinate fish and other meats into sour taste, the taste is very unique. And they also eat raw fish, fresh fish slaughter, slices crystal clear, and pure natural pollution-free, with a pre-boiled sour soup soaked for a few minutes can be eaten, no fishy taste, the freshness of fish through the mouth filled with the entire taste buds, long aftertaste.
After drinking and eating, sitting around the fire, the small pipa with Dong characteristics and pleasant ears sounded, listening to the old people in the village tell the story of the Dong people in Guangnan, the warm and pleasant atmosphere was very infectious, and the story in the mouth had become a picture in the mind.
Raiders
1. How do I get to Quang Nam Village?
To Guilin : Airplane ( Guilin Liangjiang Airport ) / High Speed Rail ( Guilin High Speed Rail Station)
To Quang Nam: Rent a car by car/report a local group tour
2. About the weather
In winter travel, we must pay attention to cold protection; recently many southern cities in the country have cooled down, and most of the southern cities have put on thick cotton coats, and the north is no exception.
3. About accommodation
Longsheng Various ethnic villages have relatively good homestays, and Guangnan Village is generally a homestay opened by the villagers themselves, just in their own homes, the environment is OK, and the price is not high.
4. How to play when I went to Quang Nam?
DAY1 Huangluo Yao Village (the world's first Long Hair Village) - Jinzhu Zhuangzhai
DAY2 Quang Nam Village - Huotang Culture - Special Cuisine - Dong Pipa Song and Dance
DAY3 Dong Year - Long Table Feast - Dancing Grass Dragon - Bonfire Party