【Special snacks】 Nostalgic for the dried wontons in qianzhou, Shaanxi Province
"Dry wontons ~ ~ ~ five hundred dollars a piece!" (Its value is equal to the cents of the second issuance of currency in 55 years.) ）
From the time of the Republic of China to the liberation period, the cities and rural towns in Qianzhou, Shaanxi, especially at the market, at ancient meetings, or playing stories (social fires), singing big dramas, etc., this kind of shouting and selling is very common, it can be said that it rises and falls. It can also be said that all the beaches that sell special snacks such as tofu brain bean batter, cold powder cold skin, roast mashed cold fuzi, pepper soup and offal soup are attached to vendors selling dry wontons.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- There are old men who are fans of the play, and after watching the play, they don't want to run back and forth anymore, so they sit down next to the mash burden on the side of the stage, burn a bowl of mash, and then ask for a dry ravioli, even eat and drink, spend not much money, and eat a fried job. Wipe your mouth, put on a pot of cigarettes, and take a good place to wait for dark to watch the stage play. ......
In normal times, there are hawkers who go from village to village to village are active in ten miles and eight townships, shouting "Sell ~ dry wontons!" ”
——There was an old lady who was pestered by her grandson to eat sesame candy rollers and other food, thinking that it was too expensive, and took out Wu Baiyuan to sell a dry ravioli, so she coaxed her to play happily. There is a mother-in-law who is carrying a cloth on the door, because the child is not honest in sitting on the bun, and selling a dry ravioli will be coaxed around. In fact, she knew in her heart that the steamed bun at home was a little indebted to lunch today. ......
This is all because in those not rich years, dry dumplings can meet the needs of small rural households to go out to accompany meals and snacks; living at home instead of candy to coax children and resist hunger. It is also conceivable that in that period, dried wonton was a special snack food that was generally loved by urban and rural residents at a good price, convenient and affordable.
However, the famous food of dry dumplings, which used to be known to all ages and suitable for women and children, is now very rare, and teenagers, even middle-aged people, are indeed very strange, so that they know even less because they have never seen it. This may be because the world changes time and things are not caused by people!
So, what exactly does the so-called dry wonton look like? In short, it was a small food that was "minimized" in Qianzhou at that time. (It has the color, aroma and taste of the pot helmet, and has the same characteristics of dryness, crispness, entanglement, and long-term survival and non-deterioration.) ）
Comparatively speaking:
1, with beef and mutton steamed bun with the same round size and more than three times thicker and is open noodles and finely burned.
2. The same round and small and thick as the "meat sandwich bun" is a hard-noodle dry crispy dumpling.
3. It is round and small and three points thick with the home-baked sacrificial stove dumplings, and it is finely cooked.
4, in addition to being much smaller than the pot helmet, it is much the same.
First of all, let's talk about the Qianzhou pot helmet. Since the Tang Dynasty, Qianzhou has been rich in pot helmets and smells of each other. There are pot helmet workshops in all towns and villages, and the pot helmets are sold exclusively. At that time, the pot helmet was ground with sexual wheat, and the noodles had to be hard and vigorous, add seasoning, press with bars, and press the horizontal and vertical lines. Famous for its round, large, thick, dry, crispy, fragrant, fragrant, and crisp, it is a hard noodle pot helmet, known as "sharp branches". Because it has not deteriorated for a long time, it is the preferred dry food for people who go out. Because of its huge size, the Qianzhou pot helmet is not bought by people who go out to buy a whole piece or two, and the average person does not buy a mixture. This is to be sold with a knife. Sellers have sharp knives, slashing open, brushing white, fang appears thicker and whiter and "sells". (By the way: the pot helmet of the old days is not the so-called "Qianzhou pot helmet" of today's chrysanthemum pattern, with a thin center and thick sides and a small amount.) ）
Speaking of dry wontons, almost at the same time as the marketing of pot helmets, it is also derived. There are people who have the heart to seek business opportunities from the pot helmet business, facing the small families in the vast rural areas, running their own small workshops, and mass-producing dry wontons. With its short and fast way, the characteristics of high quality and low price and affordability have almost occupied the consumer market of the majority of ordinary people.
This can be seen from the fact that Mr. Dama Mura, who was doing the Qianzhou pot helmet business in Pucheng, used to work around and sell dried wontons. Later, they also developed the dry lump, on the basis of collecting money, eliminating the need for a knife and scale, simple and fast. It is even mass-produced and sent to Cheng and He'er counties. ”
According to Mr. Panic's second grandfather, "When you go out to do business, you are suspected of being a buyer." Qianzhou pot helmet to create a signboard, dry dumplings for convenience. Look at the six roads to see the market, and listen to the eight parties to pull buyers. As long as the soul is skilled, the business is prosperous. ”
As the saying goes: "Xiu Cai changed to a doctor, three days and two noon." ”
The steamed bun of the pan helmet is a light car familiar road.
First of all, the two grinding surfaces, harmony noodles, opening faces, rubbing surfaces, and pressing surfaces are the same. (It's for Datong.) It's just that the dried wontons are more flexible, more delicate, more popular, and the process is slightly different.
Secondly, the process flow of dry wontons is:
1, the pressed noodles can be added salt such as five spices, accompanied by crushed pepper leaves or sesame seeds, etc., and then uniformly kneaded hard.
2. Measuring, kneading and forming. Its measurement has weighed and dedicated one round stick nail ten equal parts of eleven foreign nails of the instrument. In batches, each weighing more than two pounds (containing water) of water surface, according to the equal length of the utensils into a uniform round noodles, through the instrument pressure is ten equal parts of the flour. Cutting it with a knife is a steamed bun of two or two per section. Then knead and save them into round, thick and small balls of wontons in the initial shape of "wontons". (To be branded).
3. Steamed buns, baked. It is burned on the stove. The furnace chamber of the charcoal stove is large and high, and the fire hammer is correspondingly large. First place the steamed bun on the tweezer to burn, and move the above fire color while burning. At any time, with experience, I can hold up a bun that has been turned over twice and gently scratch it with my other hand, and I know that it is cooked by the feel. Pick 3-5 in turn, then move the steamed hammers flat and quickly bake them against the hearth. So scratch and bake and add and at the same time take out the dry, yellow, crispy and crispy cooked one by one and put it in a large basket. Such. Kneading, saving, baking, baking one-stop matching, assembly line operation, mass production.
As for the production of dumplings in each workshop in each township, they basically follow this road and have their own advantages. However, customers who like to eat dry wontons also have their own tastes and hobbies.
Later, the shame of the dry wonton business was scarce, starting from the time when the countryside ate large canteens, and in the years when natural disasters occurred.
In my memory, around 63 years ago, in the area of Jiang Village and Xue Lu in Qianzhou, an old man selling dried wontons was still active in Yangding Village. Perhaps because he was old enough to no longer participate in the production and labor of the team, the family became a short-term household, and the old man returned to his old business and started a small business of dry dumplings. In this way, his family can pay money to get rations, process the noodles into dry wontons and sell them to earn money, and the whole family can live on the noodles and autumn grains. No matter what you say, anyway, Li Laohan has been working tirelessly for many years, no winter and two summers, going from village to village, running around Shenfang, Jiang Village, Tian Chao, Ma Xiang, Big and Small Horse Village, and Xue Lu generation, and returning from the short road after the sale of the ride. Cycle.
"Dried ravioli ~~~!" With the loud roar, the township party members will see the tall, slightly hunched back, dark-skinned Old Man Li, carrying a long cage into the city gate, greeting business...
After that, in order to make a living, the old man took a little bit of selling hemp candy by the way, and shouted all the way: "Dried wontons ~ ~ ~ vegetable oil hemp candy!" "Follow the assembly, go from village to village...
Since I went to school, I have never seen Old Man Li again, and I have never been able to eat the lentil-shaped dried, yellow, crispy, crispy and delicious dumplings.
Later, it is said that since the death of Li Laohan, there has been no more sale of dried wontons in the original.
I miss the dumplings of my hometown very much.
Note: On March 1, 1955, the new renminbi was issued (of which the main coins are divided into 1 yuan, 2 yuan, 3 yuan, 5 yuan, 10 yuan; the auxiliary coins are divided into 1 jiao, 2 jiao, 5 jiao, 1 cent, 2 cents, 5 cents).