Daily Business News In the three-volt day of Hangzhou, it is either the dull feeling of rain or the scorching heat of the hot sun, and the steps on the road are somewhat tired. When I got home, when I sat at the table and waited for the dish, I took out a few dishes of bad taste that had been refrigerated early from the refrigerator, took a sip of old wine, and suddenly the drowsiness of the day dissipated without a trace, which may be one of the most pleasant things for many old Hangzhou people in the summer.
Bad taste, a food made from the rest of the lees from rice wine brewing, is common in the Gangnam region. The bad smell is permeated with a faint aroma of wine, and the original meat and greasy of the ingredients are removed, leaving a refreshing body. Therefore, Lu You, a famous poet of the Southern Song Dynasty, did not hesitate to praise after eating bad chicken, leaving behind the verse "Bad chicken is the most famous, beautiful is not counting fish and crabs".
When it comes to bad taste, many young people may feel strange, in the end, what is the sacred taste, can it become the old Hangzhou people's wine? How do you make a bad taste that catches your taste buds?
Xiao Man took everyone to a small shop with the reputation of "the worst in Jiangnan", selling more than a dozen kinds of bad taste "Shengxian Bad Taste Restaurant", looking for the mystery of bad taste here in the boss Shen Zhihua.
Authentic lees for three years authentic bad taste half a month
As a small shop along the street on Ding'an Road, "Shengxian Bad Taste Restaurant" has a history of 20 years, and the door of the store is often filled with a refreshing aroma of wine. The boss Shen Zhihua is more than 50 years old this year, is a native of Shengzhou, Shaoxing, grew up from snacks with bad taste, and has a deep affection for his hometown. Bad chicken bad duck bad intestine, reminiscence of homesickness.
When he was young, Shen Zhihua had studied in Japan, and after returning to China in 2001, he saw that no one in Hangzhou did bad taste at that time, and he was determined to bring the authentic Shengzhou bad taste to Hangzhou.
"Shengzhou can be said to be the birthplace of bad taste, and authentic and delicious bad taste must be made with the lees of Shaoxing yellow wine." Shen Zhihua said that the distiller's lees are packaged in the wine jar, at least 3 years of fermentation, in which the lees will also change from snow white to brown and yellow, and then the chicken, duck, pork and other ingredients are cooked, according to a certain proportion and the lees stewed together, fermented for ten and a half days, can be made into a bad taste.
"Anything that enters the mouth can be bad." The bad taste of shengxian bad taste hall is refrigerated in two large freezers, which have more than ten kinds of bad tastes such as bad chicken, bad duck, bad pig tongue, bad pork, bad dried beans, bad duck gizzard, etc. On the menu next to the store, there are even bad rice cakes to buy. Amazing is the bad pork, cut into thin slices, there is no greasy feeling at all, a light bite, salty and fresh with a faint aroma of wine, the meat is white and tender and crisp. Rotten dried tofu is a lot of bad taste in the wine is relatively strong, the more chewy the more fragrant, with the bad pork is really a sharp weapon under the wine. Rotten chicken is the best sold in the store, selling for 46 yuan per kilogram, and can sell 20 per day.
Why does the bad smell make many people fall in love with it?
The essence of bad taste lies in the aroma of wine, the strong and light aroma of wine makes foodies obsessed, different from the salt water brine taste of old Hangzhou, so what is the mystery here? Lao Shen said that the key lies in the process and ingredients.
In the process, the lees and ingredients are put together, put in a little salt and sealed fermentation, the temperature is controlled at about 5 ° C, fermentation takes half a month, a long time, the wine aroma will naturally slowly penetrate, fully integrated into the inside, to the fishy Titian, releasing the excellent flavor; the ingredients, the use of high-grade products, native pork, live chicken and duck raised in the countryside...
But don't look at the simple process, but making bad taste is really a technical job. Shen Zhihua said that the quality of bad taste is related to the length of fermentation time and the influence of seasonal climate, until now, he is still constantly groping.
Bad taste packed home, how to save when you can't finish eating?
Turning around in the bad taste hall, you can see that in addition to more than a dozen kinds of bad tastes that are famous throughout the city, there are more than ten kinds of local specialties such as Shaoxing yellow wine, bad roast, lees, native eggs, and bad brine brought from Shengzhou.
When talking, Lao Shen also greeted two or three customers who came to the store, some people came to bring them directly to friends, and some people passed by to prepare to pack up for the evening's appetizers. There are several different types of plastic bags and plastic boxes hanging on the wall, and Lao Shen said that a large box can hold 2 pounds, and a small box can hold 1 pound.
The bad smell of packing home, it is inevitable that there will be no end to the rest, just need to seal it with a plastic bag or plastic wrap, and then put it in the refrigerator, keep it refrigerated at a low temperature below 5 ° C, and store it for half a month.
Does eating too much bad taste lead to drunk driving?
Zhou Liqun, head of the nutrition department of Zhejiang Provincial Cancer Hospital, said that bad taste is a very popular food production method in Shaoxing and Shengzhou, and the classic ingredients include chicken, duck, meat, chicken feet, chicken gizzards, edamame, pig tongue, fish, etc. After the special process of bad brine, more flavor, can promote appetite, but these ingredients have high protein content, should not eat more, need an appropriate amount.
Children also like to eat bad taste, but they should not eat more. "Bad food is salty, eating too much will cause indigestion, and eating too much high-protein food will cause a burden on the spleen, stomach and kidneys." Zhou Liqun said: "For children, excessive sodium salt intake will also lay hidden dangers for hypertensive diseases in adulthood. ”
Dr. Zhou warmly reminded that the bad taste is fermented through distiller's lees and ingredients, and the bad taste also has alcohol ingredients, and adults will have the risk of drunk driving if they eat too much, so they can only eat in moderation. At the same time, the summer is hot and humid, it is recommended that bad food should not be stored too much at one time, the refrigerator is not a safe, and eating too much is prone to intestinal diseases.