A pot of strong tea, a bowl of dried silk, snacks and other freshly steamed, not urgent, tea slowly tasted, gossip slowly said, the spring light outside the window is just right, the wind in Jiangnan is strong...
Poetry and wine flourished, rich and gentle township. Yangzhou people's day begins with eating morning tea.
To the blessing of the Grand Canal, Yangzhou in the south connected to Hangzhou, which is famous for silk and tea, and in the north to the capital cities of Luoyang and Chang'an, which were then known as "Yang Yi Yi Er", and the rich merchants and magnates "wrapped around 100,000 yuan and rode cranes to Yangzhou"; while the literati rioters "went down to Yangzhou in March".
The habit of Yangzhou people eating morning tea has been prevalent since the salt merchant era. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the salt industry in Huaiyang developed, and commercial exchanges developed a Huaiyang cuisine culture known for its delicacy, and morning tea was also in the same vein.
Eating morning tea, listening to the commentary, walking around the yard, it was not pleasant.
In order to have morning tea at Fun Garden, we got up at 5:30 and waited until 9:00 to eat!
Yangzhou morning tea followed the style of Huaiyang cuisine, which was also remembered by the Qianlong Emperor. For example, yangzhou fun garden tea house was originally the salt merchant house, Qianlong came four times, and also gave the name "fun garden"~
During the Daoguang years, the salt law reformed, many salt merchants fell, many gardens were converted into tea houses, and more and more ordinary people ate morning tea.
"Morning leather bag water, evening water foreskin", accompanied by a cup of fragrant tea in the morning, while eating and drinking while chatting, go to the bathhouse at night to take a bath, the gods are just like this
"Ten years of a dream of Yangzhou", we will go to Yangzhou, eat morning tea, and live a "fairy life"
Yangzhou: The "Sense of Ceremony" in Morning Tea
Yangzhou people like to manage "eat morning tea" called "Xiao Yazi", pipe tea shop called tea society. Yangzhou Tea House also eats a variety of bun snacks, a wide range of categories, a bit like the Cantonese people's "tea drinking".
The pastry is freshly made, so wait a moment, at this time first drink a cup of tea, refreshed and refreshed.
It is also interesting to say that Yangzhou is not a big port that produces tea, but morning tea has become a landmark feature of Yangzhou, and it is recorded in the Yangzhou Painting Record: Wuxiang Tea Shop, A in the world.
Let's talk about side dishes, yes, Yangzhou people even have cold dishes and hot dishes for breakfast.
Drink tea with "tea dishes", preferably "hot and dry silk". Dried silk is the "must-eat" option for Yangzhou morning tea, it is not a next meal, but a tea dish.
【Huaiyang scalding dry silk: the simpler the food, the more it tests the chef's skill】
Wang Zengqi said, "Dry silk is not under the rice, it is accompanied by tea", which sounds a bit like black tea with pastries and red wine with steak.
It is said that at first there was only the practice of ironing and drying silk. Blanch the cut dry strips in boiling water, drain the water and pile it up in a hill, just drizzle with sesame oil, soy sauce and vinegar.
[After eating the hot and dry shreds, it is your own people]
It seems ordinary, but in fact, the requirements for raw materials, knife work and cooking methods are extremely strict, which perfectly shows the Yangzhou style of "not tired of eating, not tired of fine".
Later, there was boiled dried shreds, and the emphasis was on the strong and thick taste. Small shrimp rice hanging soup, with ham shreds, chicken shreds, etc., cook until flavored, according to the season to add spring shoots or winter shoots, anyway are the pursuit of that bite of fresh ~ ~
【Dried crab powder: Add crab powder, bamboo shoot slices, shrimp, green vegetables】
The hot dish is followed by a cold dish: the meat.
The dish, also known as crystal hoofs, is a transparent dish, and this dish is one of the four cold dishes of the founding ceremony, and it is also a cold dish that must appear at the morning tea feast.
【A layer of crystal clear jelly on the top of the head】
The production method is to use the front hoof meat of the pig, after deboning, boil in white brine until the skin and meat are separated, dissolve the gum, re-shape, slice, beautiful shape, soft entrance, pleasant color ~ ~
Delicious meat will not be too salty, eat the meat fragrant. Xiaobian I like the taste of the just right white brine, the top layer of QQ skin jelly is also fragrant.
There is a poem cloud: "The old man smells the incense under the fairy colt, only for the salt meat to Nanxu." The peach festival will not go for a while, and the food will be delicious. "Salt meat is later the meat of the dish.
Why did Elder Zhang Guo, one of the Eight Immortals, ride a donkey? Because he was not addicted to eating, and he was afraid that he would not be able to catch up with the peach festival, he had to ride a donkey upside down, look at this small shop in Zhenjiang reluctantly, and then take off.
In the steamer basket of Yangzhou, the gentleness of Jiangnan is hidden
The cold dish is appetizing, and the freshly steamed noodles are served on the table!
Pastry, in fact, is Huaiyang fine points, is the most important part of morning tea. There are many types alone, three-diced buns, five-diced buns, bean skin buns, steamed dumplings, pine nuts for sale, jadeite roast for sale, etc., with a sweet appearance and delicate taste, which is the appearance of Jiangnan Gentleness
【High cage drawer, containing the eager expectations of diners】
Buns: Buns are the highlight of a morning tea
Yangzhou bun is the most famous, thin skin and large filling, soft and delicious.
Yangzhou people love buns, just like Sichuan people love hot pot! The buns in Yangzhou are soft and gentle in their hands, and anyone will be confused.
[The bun is like a blind box, hiding the unknown and surprises]
Good Yangzhou buns, adhere to the traditional way of hair noodles, the outer skin is slightly yellow, and there is a mellow and long noodle fragrance.
Yuan Ming of the Qing Dynasty wrote in the "Suiyuan Food List": "Yangzhou fermented noodles are the best, the hand is not half an inch, and the relaxation is still high."
【The World: The Pride of Yangzhou Centennial Tea House】
Five-ding bao: the royal breakfast when Qianlong went down to Jiangnan in that year!
It refers to diced chicken, diced meat, diced bamboo shoots, sea cucumbers, and diced shrimp, which has become "five buns", which is quite connotative! Paired in a fixed proportion, the taste is attractive.
According to relevant historical records, when Qianlong cruised to Yangzhou, the officials of Yangzhou hired famous chefs, ingenious, and elaborately made five-ding buns.
When the steaming bun was presented to the emperor, Qianlong thought to himself, a snack, He Zu Daoya. Once he tasted it, he couldn't help but applaud and praised: "Nourishing but not replenishing, delicious but not fresh, oily but not greasy, crunchy but not too hard, tender and not too soft." ”
Yangzhou Wuding buns, once qianlong's royal commentary, immediately spread the name of the great river north and south.
Three-ding bag: You are two dice less than five dings
Five diced bun minus two dice, only retain the diced chicken, meat diced, bamboo shoot diced, it becomes a three-diced bun, also known as "three fresh", more civilian.
The marinade is particularly fragrant and salty with a hint of sweetness. The bun skin absorbs the marinade of the meat, which is soft and delicious, and the crunchy texture of the bamboo shoots inside is very added.
And, of course, there's the crispy and tender cabbage buns.
"Choose the most tender dish, chop it into puree, add a little sugar and a little oil, steam it white, steam it hot, and easily melt it to the mouth, leaving a trace of aftertaste." Zhu Ziqing described it this way.
Soup bun: Gently lifted, slowly moved. Open the window first, then drink soup.
When it comes to Yangzhou soup buns, the most famous is the crab yellow soup buns. However, in the daily morning tea of locals, it is more common to have a small soup bun.
【Kolong soup bun: super cute】
The soup buns are divided into large soup buns and small soup buns, and the eating methods also have their own patterns. The small soup bun is mainly filled with fresh meat, the size of a baby's fist, and the ordinary cage can hold five or six; the large one is usually a crab yellow soup bun, the size of an adult's palm, which can be called the giant in the soup bag.
【Crab yellow soup bun: only one can be packed on a plate】
For eating soup buns, Yangzhou people have a small secret passed down by word of mouth: gently lift, slowly move. Open the window first, then drink soup.
Crab yellow soup bun with straw, the sense of ceremony is very strong! The small soup bun was sandwiched in a dish, and the small bite was gently bitten out with his teeth, blowing, and the prick was full of fresh flavor.
【The moment the clear soup comes out, the heart melts】
Matsuko yakitori sale: Salty glutinous rice yakitori selling handle!
Solid carblets, especially tasty. Glutinous rice is flavored with soy sauce, it tastes oily and moist, and the pine nuts with a warm aroma are accompanied by lustrous glutinous rice, plus bamboo shoots and diced meat, it is really difficult not to eat ah~
"Jade Roast Sale": Zhu Ziqing's heart "the most delicious vegetable roast sale"
The roast sale is generally salty, but the jadeite roast sale in Yangzhou is a sweet taste, also called "clear sugar dish" roast sale.
【Yangzhou Double Absolute: Jade Roast Sale, Mille-feuille Cake】
Local short-legged greens are kneaded out of the water and made with lard, and then a little ham is added to freshen up.
After steaming, the crisp green color looms under the thin paper-like dough skin, and it tastes sweet and fragrant, as if kneaded into the spring color of the garden.
Zhu Ziqing once wrote a praise: "Moist and clean, never greasy teeth and greasy tongue, not only delicious taste, the color is also beautiful and pleasing to the eye." ”
Mille-feuille cake: the unmissable "Yangzhou Double Gem"
Mille-feuille cake and jadeite roast are sold and called "Yangzhou Double Absolute", which is a necessary option for eating morning tea.
[You count, how many layers]
With the preparation of the various colored packages in front, this bite is amazingly soft!
64 floors! Layers of sugar and oil are as thin as window paper, soft and tender, sweet and delicious. It looks elegant and chic, and it tastes soft and sweet.
In fact, the thousand-layer oil cake and jadeite roast sale are not originally in Yangzhou, it is said that it was introduced from Fuzhou in the last year of Guangxu.
Yangzhou people's morning tea likes to end with mille-feuille cake, probably the soft glutinous sweetness left between the lips and teeth, which can make it "sweet" all day long
The taste of Gangnam is in the noodles
The people of Yangzhou are absolutely one hundred percent serious about eating noodles.
Shrimp dumpling noodles: the love of every Yangzhou people
【Shrimp seed dumpling noodles, I am hungry】
The common dumpling noodles in the streets and alleys are dumplings and noodles, but "dumplings" are not "dumplings" in the north, but wontons.
The noodles of "dumpling noodles" are mixed with "alkali", the color looks a little yellow, but the taste is strong, in Yangzhou dialect called "there is a sense of sleep" (chewy).
Shrimp seed dumpling noodles are boiled with shrimp seeds, and the soup itself is the accumulation of flavor, and the aroma is enticing. The essence is in the soup, the inconspicuous noodle soup is full of delicious taste, and when you drink it at the bottom of the bowl, many shrimp seeds will be displayed in front of you! Through and through!
Of course, there are also simple shrimp seed noodles:
Or simply shrimp roe ravioli:
Here to say, shrimp seed ravioli is not shrimp seed filling, but the use of shrimp seed soy sauce or added shrimp seeds, come to Yangzhou must taste, have a different flavor.
Of course, the noodles also have freshly fried toppings!
"Yangjun noodle restaurant, taste the world", according to the Ming Dynasty Wanli "Yangzhou Fu Zhi" record: "Yangzhou diet is luxurious, the system is exquisite, the city is full of products, boasting of the river watch..." During the Qianlong period, Yangzhou has more than ten kinds of toppings.
As a small editor of offal lovers, naturally you can't miss the fat intestine pork liver! After placing the order, I heard the back kitchen rumbling and frying, and the service was steaming!
Sure enough!
Freshly fried fatty intestine pork liver, directly into the noodles, this is called "toppings".
The well-lucky Xiaobian also received an "Easter egg": the boss also sent us three crab yellow tangyuan: "The crab yellow was picked out by the family last autumn and stored frozen, real material!" ”
The entrance Q bullet is soft and sticky, the crab is fresh and full, although it is not the crab season, it can be eaten and comfortable
Only 3 o'clock in the day, all the free time is in the morning tea. Today's Yangzhou morning tea still embraces the essence of Huaiyang cuisine, so that future generations can still eat the original taste of a hundred years ago.
It is said that the friends of Yangzhou are:
And if you want to have a party, not about afternoon tea, but about getting up early in the morning and drinking a morning tea!