Quanzhou this family has been open for more than 100 years of noodle paste, and everyone who knows it is exposed to age

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In the streets and alleys of Quanzhou

Twenty or thirty years of old noodle paste abound

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But mention this century-old shop of the pontoon

Perhaps only senior natives can say a word about it

If it were not for the admiration, Yu Boy would never have thought that such an ordinary small shop would carry more than a hundred years of history.

The owner, Aunt Zhang, is the fourth generation of the store. Every morning at five o'clock, Aunt Zhang is already busy in the store, receiving the first wave of guests who come to breakfast.

The regular customers and Aunt Zhang knew each other like old friends, and one customer quipped to me: "She learned to make noodle paste with adults at the age of 13 or 4, and if she didn't like to read, she could only come to take over the shop." ”

The stove full of side dishes is the most pyrotechnic corner of the store. Aunt Zhang will wipe and tidy up the countertop when she has a little free time, and the small stove is always kept clean and tidy.

Enter the store and get a fritter first

After entering the store, the regular customers will skillfully pick up a fritter, order while eating, of course, you can also let Aunt Zhang cut into small pieces by default.

Pick a few side dishes that you like

Some people like the sweet and crispy seafood, some people like the cream of the large intestine, and diners have their own special favorites for side dishes, and it is difficult to distinguish between dishes.

The only advice I can give is: be sure to come early! "We do as much as we want, and when we're done, it's gone." Usually after eleven o'clock in the morning, many dishes are empty. ”

"Your batter will be fine right away"

Aunt Zhang's hand speed is fast, and the action from loading to seasoning has formed a muscle memory, flowing in the clouds, in one go. A bowl of noodle paste from order to table, but only a minute.

A bowl of non-greasy taste

Aunt Zhang said that their family has always used fish and large bones to boil the soup base, which is an ancestral recipe and has been used until now.

Their noodle paste is thick but not greasy, thick but not sticky, and it is fresh and refreshing with the embellishment of parsley. The toppings vary in taste, but all are soaked in the sweetness of the soup base.

One uncle recalled to me: "I have been eating at their house for decades, and earlier they did not have a storefront, and they set up a stall in front of Jiangnan Hospital, and it was out at one o'clock in the morning." ”

"At that time, many people came to eat supper, they were all workers after work, eating noodle paste with liquor, you should not have seen it..."

For these familiar customers who have eaten for most of their lives, this taste is deeply rooted in their growth trajectory and has become an irreplaceable memory of that generation.

I asked Aunt Zhang if anyone would inherit the craft. Aunt Zhang smiled and shook her head: "The children are going to do something else, and I don't want them to do this, I'm afraid they're too hard." ”

Maybe we will feel sorry, but in Aunt Zhang's view, children have better choices, and it is not a gratifying result.

Years later, people recall that there was a bowl of noodle paste that accompanied them for years and years, and it was enough to warm countless late-night mornings.

Ancestral noodle paste

- Per capita -

15 yuan

- Time -

Open all day

- Address -

No. 947 Xingxian Road, Licheng District, Quanzhou City