"Crab idiot" said crab
Wang Datong
Get up early in the morning, the air is good. Originally wanted to continue to write "My Grandfather", really can not calm down, crab eating season, the circle of friends, public number many times to see the "crab idiot" said crab, a little unstable, as if not to write points, sorry for this kind of order "special thing".
Just a friend of Brother Bin, gave him a box of lake crabs, so he came to a family half, I got 5 crabs, one a day, last night to eat out. Xiao Bin brother treats people carefully and thoughtfully, the circle of friends is also luxurious and generous, and the crab sent to him is a gem, 3 mothers and 2 males, a steel plate iron armor, yellow full of cream and fat. Must be solemnly commended, so that he has such a good thing, or will think of me, divide me a few more times, in order to fill my mouth (in fact, the seafood in the refrigerator of Xiao Bin's brother is also my mouth blessing, so there is a pair of contradictions + selfish strange thoughts: of course, I hope that his high uric acid can go down and can eat by himself. It is also possible that if his uric acid does not go down, I will still have a steady stream of seafood to eat).)
Mr. and Mrs. Xiaobin boarded the City God Pavilion, the neutral was Wu Xiaobin, the class teacher Xu Tao was left, and I was right.
"People call me Daddy Zhu" (friend Zhu Jun) since September 14, it has been "water in the mouth", no, it has been "salivating". It is poetry again, and it is literature again, I counted it, there are as many as 11 articles, and what I admire, every article must be seen and listened to, the famous Shanghai writer Shu Shu (Teacher Zheng Jian), last week also came to a "play" "big crab and Shanghai slang with the word "crab", with a Ningbo accent of shanghai dialect to tell the story, it is good to hear.
Shakespeare said that in 100 people's hearts, there are 100 different Hamlets. I would like to say here that in the hearts of 100 people, there are 100 different "big crabs", and their literary style is directly close to Liang Shiqiu, Qi Baishi, Zhang Daqian, Feng Zikai, Wang Zengqi and other big coffee, gaining insight and learning.
Over the years, the Yangcheng Lake crab has been pushed on the altar, Yangcheng Lake crab has been "God yang no way" to the point of invincibility, in fact, the lake crab in the hometown of Shaoxing, not at all lost Yangcheng Lake crab, but Shaoxing people do not think about marketing, may also be the same as Shaoxing Tuoling (DaLing), people are more than crabs, they eat not enough, there is no need to drink. Of course, Shaoxing is also nothing else, and the "foodies" are now also real and fake Yangcheng Lake crabs (crabs in the bath, crabs in the queue, etc., the words of the teacher of the deformed pen), which are not clear.
Shaoxing and Hangzhou are only 100 kilometers, but the language is completely different, Hangzhou people call the lake crab (xie), Shaoxing people call the lake ha (crab, ha), which is seamless with the Shanghai people, Shanghai people call the lake crab "Tuozha Ha" (standard Yi Deform pen teacher: big (read tuo, camel) crab, the last word, or read "ha", ha). Therefore, in Shanghai, Shaoxing people and Ningbo people can eat more than Hangzhou people, and as soon as Shanghai opened its port, many Shaoxing and Ningbo eunuchs and giants arrived first, broke into the docks and settled down. And some people in Hangzhou were influenced by the song room's southward migration, self-righteous, still a little bit of declining "emperor" spirit, until the reform and opening up, life is leisurely, small rich is safe, every Sunday, the old duck + ham stew, "climbing" (lake crab) peeling, small feet upturned, small wine to drink, no career pursuit, a look of Shanghainese people have what to hope of contempt.
Of course, the current Hangzhou people are leading the way, but it is another matter.
Shaoxing people call fish, shrimp, and crabs with "En", "Hou", "Ha", if they are used to it, they shout more than three times with a short accent, "Enhou Ha", "Enhou Ha", "Enhou Ha", "Enhou Ha", "Enhou Ha", "Enhou Ha", "Enhou Ha", "Enhou Ha", a bit like the tracker trumpet on the ancient fiber bridge in his hometown.
Hometown Shaoxing, there are many "crab idiots" among the big coffee scholars, the most famous of which is Lu Xun's lake crab said: "The first person to eat crab is very admirable, not a warrior who dares to eat it?", Lu Xun pin crab writes crab, hand in hand, involved in pen into fun. As early as August 21, 1919, Lu Xun published a fable entitled "Crab" in the National Gazette under the pseudonym "Shenfei":
The old crab felt uneasy and felt that his whole body was too hard. I knew I was going to shed my shell.
He ran around looking. He wanted to find a cave, so he hid and blocked the stone at the mouth of the cave, a hidden molting shell. He knew that molting outside was dangerous. The body is still soft, and it will be eaten by other crabs. It wasn't empty of fear, he had seen it with his own eyes.
He walked away in a panic. The crab next to him asked him, "Dude, why are you so panicked?" He said, "I'm going to shed my shell." ”
"Isn't it nice to be right here?" I'm going to help you." ”
"That's too scary."
"Aren't you afraid of anything else in the cave, but are you afraid of our kind?"
"I'm not afraid of homogeneity."
"So what are you afraid of?"
"I'm afraid you're going to eat me."
Haha, the sense of picture is full, originally the same race, cannibalism He is too anxious, imagination is infinite, such as a variety of "inner volumes", such as the "Cultural Revolution" 10 years, want to come to the cave to see the fire, brute force!
Lu Xun, who is watching the fire, the "crab monk" is actually the stomach of the crab.
If Lu Xun is still here, he will definitely go to the crab market this season and invite relatives and friends to taste it together. In "Lu Xun's Diary", there are many traces, taking October 1932 as an example, there are three accounts of buying crabs, eating crabs, and sending crabs. Among them, on October 15, "the third brother (Zhou Jianren) was invited to the whole family to live in the evening, crab eating and eating crabs at night dinner", on October 23, "the third brother and Yun ru came with the baby, stayed for dinner and ate crabs", and on October 27, "Guangping bought Yangcheng Lake crabs in the morning, and gave four pieces each to Kamada (Kamada Seiichi) and Uchiyama (Uchiyama Finished) and ate four pieces at night dinner (this is similar to Xiao Bin brother's division)". It can be seen that after Lu Xun lived in Shanghai, he often drank and ate crabs with his family or friends, and was as willing as a glutton, treating his brothers and friends with courtesy.
"When the autumn rice is ripe, wu yuejian is more than crabs, and after cooking until it is red, no matter which one (which) is taken, the back shell is uncovered, and there is yellow and ointment in it; if it is female, there are bright red seeds like pomegranate seeds." After eating these first, a conical film must be revealed, and then carefully cut along the bottom of the cone with a knife, taken out, flipped, so that the inside is outward, as long as it is not broken, it becomes an arhat-like thing, with a head and face, a body, is sitting, and our children there call him 'crab monk', that is, the Fahai who hides in it. ”
On November 17, 1924, Lu Xun published the famous essay "On the Fall of Leifeng Pagoda" in the Beijing "Yusi" weekly magazine. According to folklore, the Fahai monks built the Leifeng Pagoda to suppress the White Lady so that she would never be able to turn over. Therefore, Lu Xun has discussed several times that it is a good thing that the Leifeng Pagoda fell, here the White Lady represents the women, the Leifeng Pagoda falls, and the women will eventually see the day and be liberated, and everything will inevitably happen. Now there is a great tendency to turn over and turn over to men.
However, this passage shows Lu Xun's familiarity with crabs, and describes the internal structure and cooking methods of crabs in a meticulous and interesting manner, especially a series of verbs such as "reveal", "dew", "cut", "take", "flip" and so on, reflecting Lu Xun's proficiency and accuracy in eating crab technology. There are many examples of Lu Xun using crabs to attack the shortcomings of the times.
Mr. Qi Baishi's 85-year-old "Crab"
Mr. Qi Baishi's 86-year-old "Crab"
His eldest brother Zhou Zuoren also wrote "Eating Crabs", but pure crab eating, without Lu Xun's ability to write about people and the world with crabs, not as handy and unforgettable as Lu Xun quoted. But for the first time he mentioned a forgotten crab called the "Huai crab":
"The seafood from Ningbo, in addition to the white carp, the king melon head carp, the fish, the le carp and even the Huai crab, because the pickled goods can be stored and killed rice, everyone loves to use, there are many shops in the south, the business is good, and there are few other places."
Have you ever eaten Huai crab? If you had eaten, you would have been 60 years old. In the early 60s, lake crab flooding, where can the people of northern Jiangsu eat it, it is good, a large number of fresh lake crabs, Ke up to the salt brine tank, crabs in the salt brine alive crawling to death, and then trafficked to all parts of the motherland, I bought in a dried seafood store next door to the Qinghefang Bandung ham shop, very cheap Dahuai crab, eat than our steamed hairy crab, I don't know how much more delicious to kill, it is really delicious, fresh to the tongue licking the nose.
My grandfather Zhang Zhengang is also a crab lover, and his poem "Inscribed Crab" is very popular:
"Full of fat and fragrant durian red, rice flower wind in late autumn."
At night, the new signings sparked, and the formation fell into the cross-beam I.
Guo Suo's mud and sand were chaotic claw marks, and the beads of frost foam were spit and swallowed.
Hungry and hungry in autumn water, only biting the short grass roots of the decaying cane. ”
---- See "Leftovers of the Moon Half Corridor"
Grandpa Zhang Zheng kang, Confucian and profound, erudite, a "簖" word, that is, see a spot, Nancheng Beijing, refers to the Southern Jiangsu Yangcheng Lake Crab, Northern Jiangsu has Qinhu Crab, Gong, Nian Duàn, Crab, this "Zhen" character, in fact, refers to a bamboo tool, crab catchers set it in the lake, late autumn, crab crusade, but all, can climb over the bamboo crab, turn into the net, are strong and superior products, each flesh is rich, full of cream, delicious, to Jiangyan Lake, Jiangsu Taizhou is the most famous. You carefully taste, "rice flower wind" is the northwest wind, "spit back swallow" is the lake crab pounced there to spit out foam, swallowing fresh ground gas, "Guo Suo mud and sand claw marks" is to let us see that the lake crab is on the move, with paintings in the poems, with poems in the poems. The "crab" with the same name as the hairy crab in Yangcheng Lake has never been heard of, and it can also be seen that Grandpa's involvement is extensive.
If I am also a "crab idiot", it is influenced by my father, Kotatsu Hikari's father said, eating crab earlier had a complete set of tools, as for the tool making materials, graded, with gold, silver, copper and iron tin to distinguish. The best crab eaters can eat the crab meat without leaving a trace, and do not damage the crab shell, put together to completely restore the appearance of the crab, so that people do not know the true or false, that is like a specimen of a cooked crab.
In the late autumn of 1982, I became a groom's official, and I went to Shanhe Township, Jinhu County, Jiangsu Province, the hometown of my father-in-law, who was a cadre of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, from here in 1943, joined the revolution, and later carried a gun to fight a war and went south, fighting the Japanese Yan'er, fighting the Battle of Huaihai, fighting to the liberation of Hangzhou, and then participating in the War to Resist US Aggression and Aid Korea to fight American devils. When we went, it was the season of eating crabs, and at that time, crabs had been held up to the sky by Hong Kong people, and here we would like to quote a passage from teacher Shu Shu:
To be honest, the so-called "big crab fever" in the past thirty or forty years has not been fried by Shanghainese, nor by the people of Yangcheng Lake or even Suzhou, but by Hong Kong people.
30 years ago, because of my work, I could see Hong Kong newspapers every day. I now tell you that the entertainment section of Hong Kong's "Oriental Daily" had such a headline: "Tan Yonglin has eaten more than 100 crabs this year", will you laugh? Jacky Cheung came to the top, and eating more than a hundred crabs can still become news. ”
Shanghai and Hangzhou have risen in the price of crabs, but the Golden Lake in the Hongze Lake and Gaoyou Lake areas of northern Jiangsu Province, although there are fewer than the original, but the arrival of the new aunt can still eat 5 and 7 double long navels, 4, 5 double round navels. The old father-in-law also served as the head of the local public security bureau at one time, in charge of the lake and pond. He said: "We used to eat crabs, we ate yellow and ointment, and the body and feet were troublesome to eat, and they were all discarded." People in the village said: "When there are the most lake crabs, in the late autumn evening, there will be many crabs that will crawl to the villagers' homes."
Mr. Feng Zikai, daughter Feng Yiyin said: "Father likes to eat crabs, I think it must be a delicacy."
Autumn drink yellow flower wine, no crab is not happy.
From the moment we arrived, we began to eat big crabs, a big pot in the morning, middle and evening, and at the beginning it was really a big meal, and the villagers seemed to be watching a big drama, watching around to see how I could eat this kind of thing clean. But after three days, my tongue hurt and my taste was numb, and I wanted to get some greens and turnips to eat.
The day before leaving, uncles, aunts, nephews, and grandchildren reunited, this time they were more solemn, invited to be a "beautiful kitchen" who had been a nanny in Shanghai, a lake crab with a large palm, she first fried the whole thing in a large oil pot, and then sweet and sour ginger and onion garlic juice, whining and mourning, crab meat also came out, Shaoxing dialect, really "pulp" (bad practice) so many good crabs, sorry for my "egg pain".
Eating crab is a graceful thing, it is advisable to eat it quietly, there is no one around, and it is slowly peeled and tasted leisurely. But the wedding feast of all the guests, crab, is a must-have dish for golden autumn hospitality. The banquet dispersed, the crab residue, is also the most left, because the song and dance, noisy and tossing environment, eating crab is a troublesome thing, can not calm down, will not be able to taste the delicious crab.
I'm generally used to eating only one at a time, just right, fresh, and appetizing. Leave a trail of it for the coming day.
In the early 1990s, it was also a late autumn, the famous Peking Opera performance artist, "Red Lantern" Li Tiemei played by Liu Changyu, soprano singer Yu Shuzhen came to Hangzhou from Shanghai, who brought it, I can't remember clearly, but they ate the impression of "Tuozhaha", and they never forgot. That day I was in the "United Pavilion" (the former Wulin Road Zhejiang Medical University behind the wall), set up a banquet, the owner of the shen weimin is my old friend, originally worked for Hangzhou TV station, because close to the Longxiang Bridge vegetable market this lake crab base camp, their crabs, only strong, so they ordered a top crab for each person. After a while, Teacher Liu Changyu divided by two three times and five, has finished eating, still unfinished, weakly asked me, can I have more than a few, so I added a pair to each of them (one for each mother and father), Shanghainese like "Tuozha ha" has long heard, this time, I have opened my eyes, I am a "crab idiot", compared to them, it is really a small fox to see a big fox.
For example, if there are a few female compatriots, they will order a few male crabs, and a few male compatriots will order a few female crabs, forming a complementary form, which is also a "crab tidbit" that belongs to me.
Father is undoubtedly a "crab idiot", at that time the father lived in the brother's house, the father, the brother Dayuan, the brother's grandson Yang Jiefan, constituted the three generations of "crab idiots", so all the crab sellers in the gate alley vegetable farm opposite them were close to the brother, "Boss Wang" was long, "Boss Wang" was short and screamed, my brother's bones were also crisp, so the refrigerator refrigerator in his home was full of crabs, and his father even ate until his blood pressure rose, and he could not stop for a few days, or he would enjoy it. My father said that he was "the end of the universe" and "the ultimate ideal": that is, on the mahjong table, the bar blossomed, laughing loudly, and screaming for his life.
Father eats crab very "literary", "live to wow (healthy), west (dead) to cross (fast)," is his "end of the universe".
Father", the "end of the universe", sure enough: it was also a late autumn, that afternoon was a little uncomfortable, did not go out, slept for an afternoon, his brother called him to dinner, he once again while holding a crab peeling, while drinking three sips of Shaoxing wine, did not want to tilt his head, he lost consciousness, I and the ambulance arrived at the same time, sent to the nearest Red Society Hospital, rescued for an hour, still powerless to return to the sky, walked crisply and neatly, suddenly caught off guard.
I have seen many people "at the end of the universe" walk for a long and difficult time, full of holes, life is better than death, and finally survived until the family also had chicken feathers, and they only had a handful of bones left, and they left miserably. In this way, my father is happy, and so is my third uncle, Wang Dekai, a nutritionist at the Shanghai Naval Research Institute, who is still watching the live broadcast of the press conference in the morning, taking a nap in the afternoon, and going to sleep. Hopefully, my "end of the universe" will inherit the genes of my father's family. "Wish", but just a "wish", like floating clouds, is not their own.
Next year today, crabs, what kind of feelings will be brought, I don't know, next year will be said.
---- 2021.10.24 Early morning grass in Mizuki Tsinghua, revised on the 25th
The first draft was sent, Xiao Bin's "uncle" came to seduce me again, a half-pound female crab, asking me if I was hungry? I said half a point only for me. He said that he would send 2 over tomorrow, and it seems that the solemn recognition has worked:
Such a crab, look at it and salivate.