*This article is the original content of "Sanlian Cuisine".
"Eating noodles has long become the scenery of Yibin streets, as a Sichuan-style noodle with many types of noodles to the involution, Yibin noodles not only contain the regional mountains and rivers of Yibin, but also show the urban temperament - vigorous, warm and fresh."
Author|oysters
Chengdu high-speed rail arrived in more than 1 hour, because of the sentence "My door is the Yangtze River", I followed the Sichuan girl who I had known for less than five days to her hometown - Yibin. Overlooking from the land of China, the Jinsha River and the Minjiang River flow eastward after the confluence of this small city in southern Sichuan, for thousands of years, people call the part of the eastward flow after the confluence of the two rivers as the Yangtze River, Yibin, and therefore have the title of "the first city of the Yangtze River".
Standing on the balcony of the bank house and looking out, the wide and vast river flows quietly, reluctant to go day and night, down to the riverside, the riverside three steps and one teahouse, five steps and one side of the house, is a more specific local life. If the comfort of drinking tea and playing cards in the teahouse represents the slow pace of the "land of abundance", then the hot and hot taste buds in the noodle restaurant highlight the atmosphere of the rivers and lakes of the dock city.
I stayed in Yibin for 3 days, and the food I ate the most was noodles. One is that Yibin's noodles are really delicious, and the other is that Yibin noodles are rich, you can eat them for 30 days, and in just 3 days, I have only seen the tip of the iceberg, and I am still unfinished before leaving.
Photo / Visual China
Yibin people's day starts with a bowl of burning noodles. The most prestigious Yibin Ran Noodles, like Wuhan Hot Dry Noodles and Chongqing Small Noodles, were born in the wharf culture. During the prosperous Guangxu period of the wharf, the heavy oil, heavy taste, and waterless burning noodles could withstand hunger and enjoy eating, and were the first choice for overweight manual laborers to feast.
Today, Yibin Ranmian has become a veritable city card, and it is also more exquisite. Noodles, choose local characteristics of alkaline water noodles - water leaf noodles. The soul lies in the sea pepper oil, rapeseed oil and green onion must be stir-fried to make scallion oil, poured on the sea pepper noodles, then add some pepper noodles, spin the noodles dry, add soy sauce, chili oil and mix well, and then spread broken rice sprouts, crushed peanuts, and minced green onions.
A whole set of flowing water, seemingly simple but skillful. It is the point to spin it off. It is said that many Yibin people who go out judge whether a bowl of noodles is authentic or not, whether it is good or not, because the noodles are "shaken off or not dried", and the dried Yibin burning noodles taste comfortable and not greasy, so it tastes right. The reason why the noodles are called "burning" noodles is also because they do not add a drop of water, "the oil is heavy and there is no water, and the ignition is ignited", I have not seen it with my own eyes, but the entrance is dry and fragrant and hot, and it does have a sense of "swallowing fire", which lives up to the name of "burning noodles".
The addition of small ingredients makes the texture and taste of the noodles richer and more layered. At first, I thought it was a dried plum vegetable from Gangnam, but after eating it, I realized that the raw materials and taste were different. Food writer Fu Xia mentioned in the recipe book "Sichuan Cuisine" that the raw material of sprouts is a kind of mustard greens, which are dried and salted and fermented, mixed with spices and leaky sugar and canned for a longer fermentation, with a sweet, crispy and tender taste, and a salty and sweet taste.
As a pickle specialty of Yibin, sprouts are widely used in Sichuan cuisine. For example, one of the nine bowls of Sichuan people's banquet is salty and roasted white, which is made with Yibin sprouts as a base and steamed into boiled pork belly.
Just like going to Lanzhou to eat ramen and pretending to be an insider, you need to understand the "wide and narrow philosophy" of noodles, which can be called capillary, two thin, and large wide, and eat noodles like an authentic local in Yibin, you need to master the following words: the burning noodles with dried meat are called "meat burning", and the ones that are not added are "vegetarian burning". There are fine noodles and wide noodles, the thin noodles are more flavorful, and the wide noodles are more firm.
If you have requirements for the chewiness, hardness and taste of the noodles, you can't go wrong with shouting "noodles are yellow" in a noodle restaurant opened by Yibin people. "Yellowing" means that the noodles should be boiled harder. To a certain extent, this is also a tacit code to test whether a Yibin noodle restaurant is authentic.
In Yibin, the burning noodles are just the basic model, and they are one of the varieties of Yibin noodles. If you ask a local if they eat Yibin noodles in the morning, you're likely to get a "no" answer. This is not to say that Ran Mian is "for tourists", but most likely because he still has too many options: ginger duck noodles, spicy chicken noodles, raw pepper beef noodles, mushroom noodles, sour radish noodles, stewed chicken noodles, bamboo noodles, beef noodles, pork ribs noodles, fat intestine noodles, eel noodles, bean soup noodles...... Yibin's delicious noodles, casually count twenty or thirty kinds.
As the saying goes, "eat noodles in the north, eat toppings in the south", Yibin noodles are often based on local characteristics of water leaf noodles, and their richness is mainly reflected in the variety of noodles.
Yibin noodles can be roughly divided into two categories: dry noodles and soup noodles, and the most popular of the hardcore dry noodles are ginger duck and raw pepper beef. Ginger duck noodles were one of the favorites of my trip. The duck meat cut into small pieces is covered with mixed noodles, which is unremarkable at first glance, thinking that it is just adding a few pieces of meat to make the whole bowl of noodles look plump, but it is an unexpected surprise when you eat it.
The duck meat that has been fried with Pixian bean paste and a variety of ingredients is firm and not firewood, the taste is salty and fragrant, and it is very flavorful. It's just that the spiciness of ginger duck noodles is obviously higher than that of burning noodles, which is a big challenge to the stomach, and people can't stop but don't dare to eat more.
But if you want to say the spicest, the raw pepper beef noodles that are "not eaten in the morning" and "outsiders should be careful" are even better, and they are even called the spiciest bowl of noodles in Sichuan. Although spicy, it is also the most fragrant for people who love spicy food. The spicy fresh millet is matched with the richness, ferocity of spicy, and warm fragrance, and a bowl of beef noodles with raw pepper gives full play to the fresh and spicy characteristics of Yibin cuisine.
If the hot and spicy dry noodles are a typical Sichuan style, then the main fresh clear soup noodles are a unique and wonderful existence in Yibin noodles, with mushrooms, stewed chicken, and bamboo sunflower ....... changing tricks to satisfy Yibin people's desire for freshness.
Although the mushroom noodles are called mushroom noodles, they are not mushrooms, but dried shiitake mushrooms and dried cuttlefish, fried in lard or vegetable oil to make soup, boiled with noodles, the hot soup boiled out is fresh and fragrant, and the whole body is comfortable after drinking, and the large and fat mushrooms are full of soup, and the juice will burst in the mouth when you bite down. The pure mushroom soup without noodles is also loved by the locals, a bowl of burning noodles and a bowl of mushroom soup is a perfect match, and drinking a few mouthfuls of fresh soup after eating noodles can remove the dryness in the mouth, which is very pleasant.
It is worth mentioning that in addition to Yibin's water leaf noodles, almost all the noodles can be transplanted to Yibin noodles' relatives, such as knife-cut noodles, rice noodles, and even Yibin's copyists are all to bring noodles.
In the noodle restaurant downstairs of Panpan's house, I ate the same toppings as the noodles, chili oil, crushed peanuts, sprouts, and the toppings of the noodles were placed on the toppings, which was another taste, crispy and fresh meat filling neutralized the heat and spicinessness of the toppings, which was more mild than the noodles and had its own unique charm.
As the birthplace of Wuliangye, Yibin has the boldness of "backing the three rivers, drinking wine as soup", and Yibin cuisine also has a variety of wonderful. For example, the Yibin barbecue, which has made a gorgeous appearance in "A String of Life", specializes in picking various strange parts such as pork nose tendons, tooth stems, and flower hearts to eat, and it is full of memories.
Photo / Visual China
On this trip to Yibin, a dish of raw corned beef once again refreshed my cognition. The bright red beef tenderloin is marinated in advance with chili noodles and coriander, and when eaten, it is dipped in mustard and rice vinegar, and the taste is delicate and soft, and the taste is numb, spicy, and fresh, which is very special. There are also yellow cakes, pig cakes, bud grain cakes, all kinds of glutinous snacks, cold cakes and other Chinese desserts necessary to relieve spicy and heatstroke, and highlight the small and fresh side of Yibin.
But the food that best represents Yibin is still noodles. Not to mention that eating noodles has long become the scenery of Yibin streets, as Sichuan-style noodles with many types of noodles to the involution, Yibin noodles not only contain the regional mountains and rivers of Yibin, but also show the urban temperament - vigorous, warm and fresh.
In most local noodle restaurants in Yibin, the single-digit unit price on the menu often accounts for the lion's share, and a bowl of noodles has always been an approachable existence in Yibin. On a summer night in Jiangcheng, two sides of the wine feel the hot tip of the tongue, and a bowl of noodles is like the life of a small town, which is warm and moving in the ordinary.
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Source: Triple Cuisine