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From hatching to home breeding youngsters, you need to pay attention to these points

author:An ancient man

As the saying goes, a strong pigeon breeds first, and how to manage the youngsters bred after a carefully selected breeding pigeon pair is also a very important part for pigeon breeders. From the shell to the home flight, this stage of how to breed also has a lot of knowledge in it, pigeon fancier Bidepan's "young pigeon breeding and training management" article mentioned about the young pigeon selection, feeding and later home flight and other aspects of the process need to pay attention to a few points, pigeon fanciers can refer to one or two. The main contents are as follows:

When the shell is out of the shell, observe whether the cracked part of the eggshell is neat, the blood capillaries inside the eggshell should be distributed in a net-like manner, and gently wipe it with iodine wine at the head of the umbilical cord to prevent trichomoniasis. At this time, the breeding pigeons are fed millet or brown rice, which is used to improve the quality of the breeding pigeon's milk. The youngsters that are out of the hatch for 5 days can basically be put on a full ring, which can be extended by 1-2 days depending on the breed. If the 7 day old youngsters are not yet able to put on the rings, or if the legs of the littermates are noticeably slender, please eliminate the signs of congenital deficiency and stunting. Another good idea is to refer to the egg-to-young weaning chart on the Win the Championship leaflet! During this period, it is a good idea to put tobacco in the grass nest, and here I offer the highest respect to Mr. Gao Wanghong. Also watch out for the young pigeons that are squeaking all day long when they are wet, it's trichomoniasis! Elimination should be done early! Mr. Shalaken is also a good man who is outspoken.

From hatching to home breeding youngsters, you need to pay attention to these points

At 24 days, fanciers need to pay attention to the fact that healthy youngsters will jump (not yet fly) out of the box (depending on the breed). It's like the fruit on a fruit tree that ripens and falls on its own! The youngsters that jump out or don't jump out (with their wings spread out, as long as the feathers under their armpits are full, or if they don't have exposed skin) are grouped together in a separate loft that is covered with straw (straw). Of course, 20% of the space can also be covered with straw. During this time, the youngsters can be focused on the youngsters, where the trough and the drinker (honey can be added to the drink) are always placed in the youngsters' loft, allowing the youngsters to eat and drink freely. For the youngsters with their eyes closed and sluggish, it just didn't have water. The youngsters that do not have their own troughs and drinkers are recorded for later use (it would be too reckless to cull them directly, so a point system can be used).

From hatching to home breeding youngsters, you need to pay attention to these points

Healthy youngsters of 35 to 40 days are almost always able to fly to their favorite perches and nests. At this time, it is in the afternoon, and it is important to remember that the youngsters cannot be released in the morning, so the release door of the cage is opened so that the youngsters can come and go freely. To be clear, don't frighten and drive away. At this time, you will find a lovely picture of the youngsters flapping their wings with great enthusiasm, wanting to fly but not daring. Take a closer look at the youngsters recorded in front of you to see if they are the ones that took off last. However, this is not yet the right time to phase them out. 3-5 days, after they are released in the afternoon, close the release port and let them enter the shed through the jumping gate, and observe whether the youngsters that are recorded, and the ones that take off last, are the last to learn to enter the shed through the jumping door. When the youngsters are able to fly around the loft in a small area, keep an eye out for the youngsters that have fallen behind and record them. It should be noted here that it is normal to fall and open your mouth to breathe after a small flight at the beginning, and you should never think that it is a respiratory problem. When the flight time reaches 15-30 minutes in a small area, change the feeding method to normal mode. After feeding in the morning, remove the trough and drinker. Flights are also restricted, and they are no longer released in the afternoon, and they are carried out once a day in the afternoon. Don't force it, let it fly freely. Pay attention to the youngsters that fall behind, enter the shed early, and land early, not just to keep a record here, but to catch these youngsters and see if they are healthy. Of course, you can also observe whether the feathers above the beak are leaning forward, sticking out the tongue, fluffy feathers, opening the mouth wide and tilting the head, rubbing the upper and lower beaks, and frequently scratching the beak with the claws...... These are all manifestations of having trichomoniasis. Once such youngsters are found, they should be isolated in time and raised separately, and those that cannot recover naturally can be eliminated.

From hatching to home breeding youngsters, you need to pay attention to these points

After 3-5 days of home flight in the afternoon, when the youngsters are already flying in groups and can fly in a larger range, it is time to consider training in the morning home flight. When training at home for the first time, try to avoid the time when a large flock of pigeons is flying. When the morning home flight is over, it is immediately called into the shed and fed. It is resolutely not allowed to hang out outside! It should be noted here that the pigeon flock is hardly a flock. So how many feathers come back, how many feathers to feed! The youngsters that arrive at the earliest and the latest and very late are recorded, and 70% of them will not be on the list in future races.

The home flight plan can also be 1:30 in the morning, the home flight at noon is not mandatory, and the home flight in the afternoon is 1 hour! When the youngsters are 70 days old, they are trained (about 10 days earlier or later, depending on the strain). The distance of the road training can start from 5-10 km, and it is best to have someone at home. Watch the first ones to come back every time! Of course, it is also possible to activate the training mode of the electronic pigeon clock. The limit of the road training is 80 kilometers, and the intensity of the road training is once or twice a week. The water that the pigeons get home with is water with honey. It is better to have someone at home, and the pigeons are called into the loft as soon as they arrive home. If the race is a video pigeon clock, please do not grab the pigeons that have been released home! At this time, it is possible to draw up a training plan for the competition schedule of the local pigeon association. Once a week, observe each pigeon, and if you are relatively thin, you should immediately stop training at home, and after a few days of rest, observe its body and muscle condition, and decide whether to participate in training. Those who have reached the competitive state or are about to reach the state can only participate in the normal home flight, but do not participate in road training. The racing form of the pigeons lasts basically only for 2 to 4 weeks, so it is important to learn to use and master the competitive condition of the pigeons so that they can be used in the races.