A wave of taverns fell
Another wave of bistro stood up again
Running water shop iron diners
The hustle and bustle of the world is all for profit
The past year has been a year of explosive growth for Bistro. The number of "bistro"-related notes on Xiaohongshu has soared from 18+ million to 35+ million in less than a year, and the keyword discussion degree is as high as 54.785 million.
Not only in Beijing and Shanghai, but also in Bistro has blossomed all over the country. According to Dianping, there are more than 130,000 bistro search results (including notes and merchants) in Shanghai and more than 110,000 in Hangzhou.
Because of the main atmosphere, the definition of bistro and bistro is very vague. Not all bistros are called bistro, but bistro is a bistro, no bar and more relaxed than a restaurant, more suitable for the new generation of working babies physique social place.
It seems that as long as you add "Bistro", you can harvest a wave of traffic, and by the way, raise the price, so that many people flock to squeeze into the "tavern track" to roll up and die, and it is not easy to really survive.
When the national consumption is downgraded, you can see many taverns "swimming naked". The golden sign of bistro is not omnipotent, and many of the taverns that bought the bottom after the epidemic was completely lifted last year have already "died".
"The tavern I used to frequent, either closed or transferred. "Recently, there have been news of the closure of several taverns in Hangzhou, the first batch of bistro ete Xia Jiu has been suspended, and Doufu DOFO and Fais dodo are also being transferred.
I saw that some people said that it was unpalatable and it was normal to not be able to open, and some people said that some shops followed the trend to "cut leeks" and did not plan to operate for a long time. In the end, whether Bistro has "backstabbed" consumers, Xiaole conducted an investigation on this.
Li Wenbo, the head of the tavern, said in an interview that business has been relatively light after the New Year, but he has not heard much about the phenomenon of the tavern closing, "I feel that it is opening more and more." ”
Alvin, the manager of Winesday, said that he rarely heard of familiar taverns suddenly closing down, and the overall situation of the industry was stable. "From last year to now, under the bad environment, it is difficult for taverns to survive, and the overall business is still relatively flat, but the first quarter of this year is slightly warmer than the previous quarter. ”
However, Pesca, a sommelier at Bistro Vigne, admits: "As far as I know, there were many customs offices before the Chinese New Year, so I won't say the names." Now that the economy is down, everyone's desire to consume has decreased, but there will always be new people coming in and someone coming out of the market..."
Although the bistro did not do as well as expected, Bistro opened much faster than expected and did not trigger a widespread wave of closures.
Jingjing, the owner and sommelier of Bistro Demi, who has been working in the catering industry in Xi'an for many years, feels that this year's bistro craze is still on the rise, and most of the owners will choose to cook all kinds of alcoholic categories, and there will be more creative dishes. It shows that everyone is still very optimistic about this model. ”
Bistro, which has been popular for a year or two, has been controversial, either the more local cuisines are mixed and matched, the more popular they are, or the wine list is not friendly and undistinctive, and from time to time someone will jump out and complain that Bistro is inseparable from the word "expensive" no matter how chill it is.
Whether it is expensive to spend in Bistro is a matter of opinion. The price is set by the restaurant, but it is the diners themselves who order, and a bottle of wine and a plate of food can be drunk all afternoon. Many experience-conscious young people are less price-sensitive, and the emotional value attached to it is more important.
Cost-effective drinks are a particularly attractive label for bistro. The wine list is mainly based on wine, which is updated relatively quickly, the glass is sold abundantly, and many natural wines are also very popular. "Because the wine label is good-looking, it is more suitable for taking photos and checking in. ”
At Vigne Bistro in Shanghai, the 500-600 range of wines sells better, "The best-selling white wines in our store are Riesling and Chardonnay, and the red ones are mostly Burgundy and Spain. ”
The same is true for NUITS Yeqiu in Hangzhou, where the price of best-selling wines is mainly concentrated at around 500, "The white wines in my store will sell better than the red ones, and our wine inventory changes a lot, so we have been making adjustments." The person in charge, Li Wenbo, added.
"Judging from last year's sales, fruity, supple and easy-to-eat wines are popular with mass consumers. Alvin, the manager of the store, mentioned that the order rate of about 100 glasses at the Winesday bistro is also very high.
In contrast, alcohol consumption in Xi'an will be lower overall. In Bistro Demi, it is easier to sell 200-400 yuan bottles of wine, "the more refreshing, simple and fruity dry white sells well, which I did not expect, indicating that the market is progressing, not only staying in the stage of small sweet water." ”
After surviving the off-season of winter, the overall atmosphere of the tavern has also become "warmer" with the weather. In particular, the tavern has also started to drink in the afternoon, wrapped in the afterglow of the setting sun, watching the traffic, many customers will sit on the side of the road and drink slowly for an afternoon. "I'll be getting some more 375ml wine this year. ”
"We are on a very quiet old street next to the Xi'an city wall at the west gate, and recently we will push the big windows open, sit outside and bask in the sun and watch the street and drink a glass of wine. "Bistro Demi's products are adjusted based on market feedback and cuisine," he says, "because the wines change frequently, we don't have a wine list, and the guests are all in the cellar to choose from." Recently, some Italian white wines have been added. ”
Many taverns usually hold an all-you-can-drink event for 99 yuan, and more than 40 people came to an event that I went to before, and there were 16 wines on the spot, and there were also good wines in the cheap wines. "There was an event where there were more people, and there were more than 20 wines prepared for that event. "The person in charge of the tavern mentioned that he put a lot of thought into choosing a wine every time.
It is not difficult to find that the number of female customers in Bistro is far more than that of men, and the exquisite dining environment is just the aesthetic point of many urban white-collar women. Many customers often go outside with wine glasses to chat during the meal, and sit on the stool at the door in a daze for much longer than the meal time, and the "back garden" that cannot be placed at home extends to the tavern.
Comfortable space and exquisite decoration is the standard configuration of Bistro, many newly opened bistro, at the beginning will attract a lot of customers and tourists to check in, for the new store reputation and publicity is very effective, but the overall customer value is not high, the next consumption will go to another tavern, so retaining "repeat customers" is always a long-term way to operate a store.