作者：江山Johnson、Chloe
来源：PR人（ID：PublicRelationship）和PRREN（ID：PRREN）
(1)
Recently, the news of the "opening of Wang Hedi's trendy brand physical store" rushed to the hot search, causing a large number of fans to check in to the D.Desirable physical store in Shanghai, and there was a long queue in front of the door for a while.
Like the beginning of most celebrity fashion brands, Wang Hedi's fashion brands are selling well, and the products that are simultaneously online are also sold out quickly—— 。
Celebrities have their own IP attributes and their own fans, so they use their influence to open stores and push their own IP to the market in the form of products, in the case of idol stars like Wang Hedi, the number of fans is basically in the tens of millions or even more, assuming a conversion rate of 1%, consumption 1 time a year (the average annual consumption of the actual clothing industry is actually a very conservative estimate), each time a profit of 100 yuan is generated, and the income is tens of millions of profits.
The profit of tens of millions a year is very fragrant, so usually many celebrities realize their influence through goods (or services) after reaching the first-line and super-first-line influence.
But the reality is again - almost 90% of celebrities have failed to engage in "trendy brands".
So, how long can Wang Hedi's "shop" be opened?
(b)
Since about 2015, China has ushered in the peak period of celebrities creating trendy brands, and the report of RET Ruiyide China Commercial Real Estate Research Center shows that around 2018, 60% of celebrities choose to create original clothing brands.
However, most of these trendy brands are just a flash in the pan. Station B UP main @-LKs- selected 57 celebrity fashion brands from the Tmall flagship store and official website for analysis, and the results showed that 16 were already in a state of closure and the star himself withdrew, and among the other 41 surviving brands, the sales of best-selling goods did not exceed 1000 pieces, and even the monthly sales of many brands in the whole store were only double digits.
Edison Chen's CLOT was founded in 2003 and is one of the earliest celebrity fashion brands, with Edison Chen's fashion icon status all the rage, and his "red silk" sneakers have sold for a sky-high price of 350,000 yuan a pair. However, last year the brand celebrated its 20th anniversary, and although CLOT tried to revive the momentum through a series of co-branded projects, it was not able to change the situation of new products.
CLOT旗下门店Juice关闭
In 2014, Shawn Yue founded his personal fashion brand MADNESS in Beijing, and there have been long queues for several consecutive years. BUT THE GOOD TIMES WERE SHORT-LIVED, AND AFTER YEARS OF BEING CRITICIZED FOR MAKING PATTERNS, MADNESS ADJUSTED ITS BUSINESS LINE IN 2023, CEASING OPERATIONS OF ITS ONLINE TMALL FLAGSHIP STORE, AND THEN ITS FIRST OFFLINE STORE IN BEIJING'S SANLITUN – AND THE ONLY BRAND-OWNED STORE IN MAINLAND CHINA – WAS ALSO CLOSED.
Counting the trendy brands founded by various celebrities, there are only several reasons for criticism: high price, poor quality, and low cost performance.
The trendy brand UnGarconCharmant founded by Lu Han is a typical case. Last year, the blogger @大四喜 posted a post complaining about the quality of its products, saying that the 1500 yuan clothes are full of threads, the lathe is poor, and there are broken threads everywhere, and the estimated cost of one piece can only go to 60 yuan. The discussion quickly rushed to the hot search, with a cumulative reading of more than 500 million.
Ouyang Nana's brand "nabi" has also caused heated discussions due to its high pricing. Two pairs of white socks at 168 yuan and a basic bathrobe at 988 yuan obviously do not meet the purchase needs of ordinary people, and Ouyang Nana's promotion of "the brand sharpens a sword in three years" and "looking for the most comfortable fabric", etc., seem to contradict the company that has only been established for three months and the polyester fiber material whose cost is less than 1/10 of the selling price.
In 2022, William Chan's fashion brand CANOTWAIT_ launched its first offline lifestyle concept store in Shanghai, which currently has a rating of only 3.8 on Dianping. In July of the same year, Lin Junjie's trendy brand SMUDGE closed its last store on Changle Road in Shanghai, retaining only its online sales channels, and the brand had opened physical stores in Shanghai Xintiandi and Wuhan Center. Edison Chen's personal brand JUICE stores in Beijing and Chengdu Taikoo Li also announced the closure of stores in 2022.
In June 2023, Yang Chaoyue withdrew from the list of shareholders of the company to which the main brand BABT belongs, marking the withdrawal from the brand. And Zheng Kai's DUEPLAY, Bao Bell's WDMD, Luo Zhixiang's STAGE and other smash star fashion brands have long disappeared in the torrent of the times.
Although most of the celebrity fashion brands ended dismally, there are also a few brands that still sell a lot with their cost-effective or fashionable designs.
For example, Xue Zhiqian's brand DANGEROUS PEOPLE, the pricing of a baseball uniform 200+ and a T-shirt 99 is quite down-to-earth, from design, price to material and technology, it is close to the mainstream fast fashion brand, with Xue Zhiqian himself as the model, and the sales volume is among the best in the field of celebrity fashion brands.
However, at the beginning of this year, DANGEROUS PEOPLE was notified by the Shanghai Municipal Market Supervision Bureau to supervise and spot check unqualified down jacket products for 2 batches, and its filler nonylphenol + octylphenol + nonylphenol ethoxylate+ octylphenol ethoxylates do not meet the standard requirements, these substances are easy to affect the normal hormone secretion of the human body, and seriously cause precocious puberty and infertility. It is also unknown where the brand will go.
FOR ANOTHER EXAMPLE, WANG JIAER'S TEAM WANG, WHICH FOCUSES ON MINIMALIST BLACK AND WHITE DESIGN LANGUAGE, HAS ITS OWN STYLE AND HAS A HIGH ENOUGH RECOGNITION, COUPLED WITH THE CO-BRANDING WITH INTERNATIONAL FASHION BRANDS SUCH AS FENDI AND PALM ANGELS TO INCREASE ITS POPULARITY, TEAM WANG, WHICH WAS FOUNDED FOR 4 YEARS, HAS FORMED A GOOD REPUTATION AMONG YOUNG PEOPLE.
(c)
The business of all trendy brands actually conforms to a basic logic -
Undoubtedly, the blessing of celebrity IP can increase the price of brand equity, but when the price of the star's trendy brand is high, the price of brand assets such as Luhan, William Chan, and Edison Chen can also be accepted by the public, but at the same time, the public's expectations for the product will also be very high, and the design and manufacturing of clothing are actually relatively complex. Be short (the trend must be caught as soon as possible, even ahead of the mass trend, otherwise it will not be "trendy").
Complex version means that the cost of making the pattern is high, and the production volume is small means that you are not a big customer of the factory, and the OEM factory is more likely to match you with less high-quality production resources (for example, unskilled workers, overtime hours, etc.), and your requirements are still high and fast, and the tightness of each link will also lead to the deformation of the supply side, so it is inevitable that Luhan's 1500 yuan priced tide brand will have too many threads and poor lathes.
Consumer psychological expectations are high, product quality has obvious flaws, it is easy to collapse reputation, therefore, the business of star fashion brands is often lively at the beginning, and as the operation of the business enters long-termism, there will be products off the chain and then affect word of mouth, the negative impact causes sales to decline, so the factory's orders are further reduced, and the reduced orders will not be paid attention to by the supply chain factories, and there are more and more product defects. . . Thus the result of closing the store is finally formed
And in this regard, Xue Zhiqian did a very smart job-
On the left side of the above formula, that is, "commodity pricing", he has made a downward adjustment, and there are two obvious advantages—— 。
1. Consumer expectations are reduced, after all, the unit price of 200 yuan (Xue Zhiqian tide brand) and the unit price of 1500 yuan (Luhan tide brand) are much different, so the tolerance for even the defects will be much better
2. The reduction of the unit price, the "brand equity blessed by Xue Zhiqian" on the right side of the equation is very good, the dynamic sales are greatly improved, and the sales volume is larger, so the right to speak on the factory side is greater, and the quality control is better, so it is easier to form a positive cycle of operation
Therefore, Xue Zhiqian is the 10% that survived the operation of the star fashion brand.
(iv)
But maybe you have to ask, Xue Zhiqian's trick is very simple, isn't it "small profits but quick turnover", can't I lower the price of trendy brands?
In fact, there is a professional problem here, that is, the "celebrity IP" itself is also the brand equity of the celebrity himself, which is usually composed of four aspects, and it also needs to be maintained by the celebrity constantly—— 。
If you don't read too much, it becomes verbose.
To put it simply, in fact, since these super first-line stars have formed the corresponding IP value, the IP value of ta determines that TA is a mid-to-high-end or high-end positioning
For example, luxury goods would rather destroy inventory than sell at a reduced price, because low prices mean the loss of high-end IP value (high-end positioning brand equity).
Therefore, this is also the core reason why Lu Han, Wang Jiaer, William Chan, Ouyang Nana, including the current Wang Hedi, must be priced high
And Xue Zhiqian originally had a down-to-earth IP temperament in it, and he didn't have idol baggage, so he reduced the price to about 200 yuan, which would not cause damage to Xue Zhiqian's IP value
Xue Zhiqian's annual concert is "funny", without idol baggage
Therefore, it is difficult to say how far Wang Hedi's "trendy brand store" can go, so I wish him good luck.