What to eat? Although there are many snacks in Yunnan, there are also many meals, Han family meals, Dai family meals, steam pot chicken, rice noodles, pineapple rice, but I did not hesitate to say: "big rescue".
Friends are unknown so what is the "big rescue"? What a strange dish name.
The "Great Rescue" is coming! On the plate, something like white dough, mixed with red tomatoes, green vegetables, and yellow eggs.
A friend asked, isn't it just a noodle? Why is it called "The Great Rescue", is there a story?
I feel the need to explain.
First of all, it's not a dough sheet, it's a rice noodle slice. Although Yunnan produces rice, although it is a plateau mountainous area, the terraces in Yunnan are particularly famous, and the imposing Yuanyang Hani Rice Terraces have been declared a World Heritage Site.
Secondly, it's not called rice noodles, it's called bait (suddenly think of bait). Rice noodles are not unique to Yunnan, jiangnan rice production land, most of them have the habit of scooping rice. There are two processes for making rice noodles, one is raw rice flour and then cooked, and the other is steamed rice and scooped into a flour ball. But in Yunnan, that's called bait.
There are many ethnic groups in Yunnan, there are 56 ethnic groups in China, there are 26 in Yunnan, and the eating habits of various ethnic groups are different, but most of them have such a habit, that is, they like to pound rice into powder, so there is rice noodles, bait silk and bait blocks.
In Yunnan, the status of bait blocks is a bit like the dumplings of northerners, which must be eaten during the Spring Festival, usually eaten occasionally, and the production of bait blocks is a grand ceremony of the Spring Festival - first soak the rice with water, then steam, take it out when it is ripe, put it into the nest, take it out and put it on the board and rub it, and then make it into a brick, which is the bait block. It can also be pressed into a cake shape and pressed with a wooden mold, which is engraved with the words "Joy", "Shou", and "Fu", as well as patterns such as fish, magpies, and swallows, which appear festive.
To make bait rice, it is necessary to choose good quality, aroma and stickiness, so the bait is sticky.
Like the dumpling skin in the north, today the production of bait blocks has also been specialized, the market has supplied brick and column shaped bait, bought home and stored, when you need to make food, take out the slice is the bait, shredding is the bait.
The bait silk is eaten like rice noodles and noodles to make a "soup", and the Tengchong bait silk is made of fresh soup with meat and poured into the bait silk.
There are many ways to eat bait blocks.
In the morning and evening of Kunming, you can often see such a scene, when the street supports a stove, a grate woven with barbed wire on the stove, and the bait cake is put on the grate and baked back and forth, which is a burning bait block. After cooking, smear with various spices, and then clip a fritter, you can enjoy the meal. It seems that in addition to the different ingredients, the method is very similar to the pancake fruit in Tianjin.
In addition, the bait can also be brine and steamed. The most common is the fried bait block. The most famous thing about the fried bait block is the "big rescue".
The first time I ate the "big rescue drive" was in Kunming, a CCTV choreographer's home, and the mother cooked the "big rescue drive".
The "big rescue" should be cut into triangles or diamond-shaped small pieces, and the color requires red, green, white and yellow to reflect each other, that is, red tomatoes, ham, green spinach, white sauerkraut, bait, yellow eggs, accompanied by fresh meat slices mushrooms, carrots, pea tips and other accessories and various spicy ingredients, stir-fry in the pot.
When the "Great Rescue Drive" was brought to the table, like that Beijing friend, what came to my mind was Xinjiang noodles.
I was immediately told that it was not a piece of noodles, it was a bait block, and that dish was called a fried bait block, but it also had a special name called "The Great Rescue Drive."
"Great rescue", my first reaction was that this dish must be related to the emperor, and I thought of Liu Baorui's "Pearl Emerald White Jade Soup".
It is related to the emperor, and the choreographer mother, who was once the principal of the middle school, told the origin of the big rescue car - a plate of ordinary fried bait, connected to Tengchong 358 years ago.
In 1659, Wu Sangui led the Qing army into Kunming, and the Yongli Emperor Zhu Youluo retreated west with the general Li Dingguo, crossed the Nu River, fled all the way, endured hunger, and a villager poured everything in his home and made him a fried bait. The Yongli Emperor ate a full meal in the midst of hunger and hardship, and sighed: Zhen Nai is the great savior.
Tengchong fried bait blocks were then named "big rescue driving".
She said that the real "big rescue" should go to Tengchong to eat.
I thought, "big rescue" is just fried bait, the ingredients are ordinary, easy to obtain, the production process is also simple, how big can Kunming and Tengchong be different?
She said that it is different, because in Tengchong, you eat not only food, but also feelings, that feeling, not to the local area can not experience.
The next day, I arrived in Tengchong, and the first meal of the night was placed on the local "big rescue car". Before I could speak, the master told me about the history of the great rescue. I think he must have explained the "great rescue" to the visitors countless times, and it is rare that he is still so passionate.
At this time, I realized that only when you are in the local area and taste the special food of that place, you will deeply feel the taste of food and the historical heritage and cultural connotation behind it.
In Tengchong, I learned that there was another historical event related to the "Great Rescue", that is, when Zhu Youluo on the road to escape relied on a "fried bait" to save the car, behind him, on the west bank of the Nu River, a place called Mopan Mountain, an earth-shattering and vicious battle occurred, which was not only the last tragic victory of the Han Dynasty against foreign invasion, but also the last great war of the Ming and Qing armies.
It is a bit funny to say, because the main force of the Qing army in the wilderness is Wu Sangui's Guanning Iron Horse, there are few Hu Yu, and they are all Han family boys.
After that, the Ming army was no longer able to resist the powerful Qing army that came with reinforcements. After fleeing to Burma for 3 years, Zhu Youluo was forcibly taken back by Wu Sangui and strangled to death at Grate Po in Kunming.
Historians have always avoided this point because of ethnic issues: Zhu Youluo was the last emperor of the Han Dynasty (if yuan shikai is not counted); and the Battle of Mopanshan on the west bank of the Nu River was also like the Battle of Yashan Mountain in the Song Dynasty, against both sides, not only the commanders Li Dingguo and Wu Sangui, but also the main body of the soldiers.
The Han Dynasty died twice in a foreign dynasty, and the knife was handled by the Han themselves.
The location of the "Great Rescue Drive" seems to be unknowable, and Mopan Mountain today belongs to Hemu Village, Lujiang Town, Longyang District, Baoshan City, northwest of the Nu River Bridge on National Highway 320.
A bowl of "pearl emerald white jade soup" and a plate of "great rescue" connect the rise and fall of a dynasty for 276 years, and the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty and the king of the fall of the country have the same food-related downfall story.
The "Great Rescue Driver" failed to save Zhu Youluo's driving, but left posterity with a dynastic elegy.
It should be known that the earliest Han people in Tengchong were Shubian soldiers from Nanjing in the early Ming Dynasty, and for more than 300 years, these descendants of the Ming Army used food as a carrier to commemorate the overthrow of the dynasty, which made people inevitably sigh.