Chicken wings in jujube sauce handed down from the Qing Dynasty, braised sea cucumber with green onion to receive foreign guests in the 60s, and the popular pears and sauerkraut dumplings...... Today's headline account @老可設 is like a culinary encyclopedia, which not only inherits the glory of northern cuisine in the past 100 years, but also connects the taste buds of modern people from all over the world.
The manager "Lao Yin" Li Baozhu is the chef of the State Banquet of the North Building in Harbin, and "Xiao Yin" Wang He is the fifth-generation successor of the Northern State Banquet who has been in the industry for 22 years. The two talked and laughed while cooking in the video, and actually made the serious food column into a cross talk program that the people like to see.
Interesting, warm and real, in the past three years, "Lao Yinji" has accumulated 660,000 fans in today's headlines, Li Baozhu said, what he is doing now is what he has never dreamed of in this life - to return the state banquet dishes to the lives of ordinary people, so that ordinary people can find the memory of food and the connection of home.
"Lao Yin" and "Xiao Yin"
01
"Back to the Masses of the People"
Li Baozhu and Wang He started making headlines @老可約 in 2020. At first, it didn't go well, Wang He looked at the thatched house three times, and Li Baozhu was willing to go out of the mountain. In the old tradition, cooking skills are like martial arts, pay attention to the teacher, and the disciples and grandchildren on the edge have no chance to learn the most core skills, let alone strange netizens?
Wang He is 38 years old this year, and after meeting his grandfather Li Baozhu in a hotel on Central Street in Harbin around 2005, the two gradually became New Year's friends. In recent years, fusion cuisine has become the mainstream, and Wang He is anxious. "It's useless, it looks like it's improved and innovative, but in terms of technique and taste, it's really not hot. ”
Wang He knows that now that the era of wine is not afraid of deep alleys, if you want to carry forward the traditional northern cuisine, you can no longer rest on your laurels. He advised Li Baozhu: "There are Diaoyutai in Beijing and Xijiao Guesthouse in Shanghai, but what about our North Mansion in Harbin? In the past, you walked from the masses to the North Mansion for a state banquet, and now that you have retired, can you return to the masses of the people?"
Li Baozhu was moved. In 1959, in order to meet the needs of Heilongjiang Province to hold large-scale conferences and receive foreign guests, the State Council approved the provincial government to build the North Building on Harbin's Garden Street. Li Baozhu's father was a construction worker who built a building, so Li Baozhu also had the opportunity to apply for a job in the building.
Old photo of the North Building
In 1963, 16-year-old Li Baozhu was admitted to the canteen department, at first he chose and washed vegetables, and later cut vegetables and side dishes, until 1965, when he worshipped Zhang Xicai, the "Heilongjiang cooking veteran", as a teacher, he was counted as entering the door. Zhang Xicai studied under the palace chef Lu Zhoukai, and it is precisely because of this that the state banquet dishes in the vein of the North Mansion are mainly palace dishes. "Beihai Chaozhu", "Abbot Before Eating", "Dapeng Spreading Wings" and "Xiamen Hall Gathering", in just one year, Li Baozhu basically mastered the essence of the famous dishes of the North Building.
In the 60s, the young Li Baozhu was in front of the Northern Building
He soon became head chef. In the 70s, Kissinger secretly visited China, and his roasted milk and osmanthus fish made Kissinger full of praise; Cambodian head of state Sihanouk came to visit, and his "peacock opening screen" was ingenious, and after Sihanouk tasted it, he also improvised a song "I Love China." Li Baozhu also received Deng Xiaoping three times, and his beef in sauce, Longjiang cold-water fish, and pork section were particularly appreciated by Comrade Xiaoping, and Comrade Xiaoping even specially told the children that "they must finish eating and not waste them."
Li Baozhu received foreign heads of state at the North Building
In the early 90s, Li Baozhu retired from the North Building, and in 1996, the North Building also completed its historical mission and was converted into a department store. After more than 20 years, Li Baozhu opened his own restaurant, served as a visiting professor at the university, and taught cooking at the chef school, but he never thought of inheriting and spreading the state banquet dishes of the North Building.
Wang He's suggestion made Li Baozhu waver. He thought that the master hid a unique job in those days to "save his life", but now the same dish, authentic and inauthentic, out of all kinds of dishes, the more it is lost, the more someone needs to stand up. "The ideal of our generation is very simple, that is, we hope to be a useful person to the society, and to be able to exert residual heat through self-media, which can be regarded as a kind of dedication. ”
In May 2020, @老隐记 was officially launched on Toutiao. "Hidden in the city", Wang He said, the name of the account is the vision he and his master share: to create traditional cooking and state banquet techniques, so that it can go from the individual to the people and the market.
02
"If you don't eat and drink, you won't settle in life"
"Hello comrades!" said the grandfather and grandson, dressed in white chef skirts, standing among a pile of pots and pans. "It's going to be the New Year, today I'll make you a New Year's dish, mille-feuille pig ears!" As soon as Li Baozhu finished happily, Wang He pointed to the pig ears that had been burned in the basin and soaked in water, and teased: "Master, why did you take down your ears?" Li Baozhu laughed and squeezed back: "You just took down that ear!"
Jokes are jokes, and the two demonstrate unequivocally. Blanch the ears, remove the fat, fry the green onion and ginger, add the sauce, change to the pressure cooker and cook quickly, wrap the pig ears with plastic wrap after they are cooked thoroughly, prick the small holes with a toothpick, press them with a cutting board for a day, cut them into slices, and the dish is completed. Wang He is responsible for the specific operation, and Li Baozhu is responsible for guiding:
Blanching the skin together is to make the soup thicker, the pig's ears can't be cooled because the meat will harden, and piercing the small holes with a toothpick can make the pig's ears better solidify - Li Baozhu not only explains in detail, down to the number of peppercorns, but also takes the trouble to explain the intention and reason of each step. "If you want to share it with cooking lovers, you have to talk about it in 1510. ”
"Lao Yin" and "Xiao Yin" teach everyone to make mille-feuille pig ears
In the past three and a half years, Li Baozhu and Wang He have taught netizens to cook more than 800 dishes, including the historical famous dishes of golden dates, fish-flavored eggplant strips, and golden toad with bangs, as well as vinegar-cooked bean sprouts, braised phoenix feet and golden hairtail fish that can be quickly used at home. The two are experienced and professional, and the only thing they need to adapt to in the beginning is the camera.
"Making short videos is not like taking a class, netizens are not professionals, nor are they here to listen to lectures, they are here to listen to the history and culture you received in the North Mansion and learn to cook. Wang He said. Before working as a self-media, Wang He worked as a chef in a provincial agency, and his daily life was to "find and solve problems without smiling", and he had to laugh and scold in front of the camera, and he was not suitable at first. "Looking at the screen, I can't say it well, I can't understand it, and I force myself to be funny, which is very embarrassing. ”
After about three months, Wang He slowly found his senses, and he found that only by standing in the audience's perspective to praise the master, the functions of the two professional chefs will not overlap, and the master will have more room to play. "It's a lot like if I hook him with a hook, and he will come up with an unexpected sentence or two. For example, in the issue of jujube sauce chicken wings, Wang He said that it was very similar to Coke chicken wings, Li Baozhu had a flash of inspiration, and immediately received: "This is the ancestor of Coke chicken wings!"
In the food teaching of "Lao Yin" and "Xiao Yin", there are both historical dishes and home-cooked stir-fries
Both of them gradually relaxed, and their cooperation became more and more tacit. Because he was optimistic about the future of self-media and short videos, Wang He quit his job, and half a year later, the account finally received an advertisement on Toutiao. In Wang He's view, compared with other more entertainment platforms, Toutiao has more news rigor and a sense of cultural heaviness, and the style of @老可稭 is also more matched. "Strictly speaking, its content consumption is relatively good, and the fireworks are relatively sufficient. ”
Pyrotechnics is also the concept that Wang He hopes to pass on to the audience through @老可记. "We eat three meals a day, and eating is closely related to us, so if you don't settle for eating and drinking, you won't settle for life, right?"
03
"A good life is made of smoke"
In the past three and a half years, Wang He has changed from a serious chef to a gag in the video, and Li Baozhu has finally changed from a serious old man to an amiable, witty, and old Yin who knows how to keep pace with the times.
has been in the industry for 62 years, and Lao Yin's disciples and grandchildren add up to only more than 200, and he has been a self-media for three and a half years, and the number of fans on the whole network has exceeded 5 million. Once on a bus, he was recognized by a couple. They asked Lao Yin for advice on cooking all the way, and finally as they spoke, a whole carload of people came around. "I'm proud that people know me and get some cooking knowledge and nutrition from me. ”
"Lao Yin" and "Xiao Yin" will cordially greet the fans "comrades" at the beginning of each video
Lao Yin is accustomed to cooking state banquet dishes during the period of scarcity of materials, and now he has also begun to learn the modern people's dietary concept of "less oil, less salt and less sugar". The current tomato varieties are hard, and it is difficult to make the soft and tender texture of tomato scrambled eggs, so Lao Yin combined with Western food practices, adding minced garlic, coriander and tomato sauce, before getting out of the pot, Wang He beat the drum in his heart, can this work?
@老隐记 has become a kitchen necessity for many people. Some fans followed the account from a kitchen novice to a cooking "master", and some fans followed the clues of the food and regarded the video as a tree hole in memory.
Some people say that in the 60s, Victor's Western Restaurant in Xiaobailou in Tianjin had this kosher beef, "I am over 80 years old this year"; Some people remember that when they were children, they ate a plate of scallion roasted pork skin without soy sauce with their grandfather, and now that their grandfather is gone, he occasionally remembers the scene of the two eating meat skin together;
Fans found happy memories in the food of Lao Yinji
These replies also moved Li Baozhu and Wang He. Li Baozhu's old colleagues persuaded him that he was 78 years old, don't worry about it, and have time to enjoy and go out to play. Li Baozhu said that since he has embarked on this road, he will not give up easily. What he wants to awaken is people's passion for food and attachment to family in the fast-paced life. "We have always believed that a happy and harmonious family relationship and a beautiful and happy life are all 'smoked'. Li Baozhu said that this is also the original intention of @老喋設, "take care of yourself and take care of your family".
Netizens learn the indispensable "hard dishes" of the northern Chinese New Year's Eve meal from the headline number @ Lao Yinji
On today's headlines, @老隐记 has taught netizens a lot of northern Chinese New Year's Eve rice, fried garlic sprouts with dry intestines, pot collapsed tofu box, spicy cabbage roasted beef, braised prawns in oil, and an appetizer cold dish, colorful home cool. Each dish has its own meaning, either five tigers come to the door, auspicious wishes, or family joy, everything goes smoothly, as Li Baozhu said, Chinese cooking is not only to cook the dishes, especially on the day of reunion, it also means warmth and companionship.