We all seem to have ignored the delicacies in Lu Xun's texts, those seemingly "bitter and deep" realist works, but full of deep love for life - steamed fish in "Diary of a Madman", stewed shark fin soup in "Blessing", salt-boiled bamboo shoots in "Kong Yiji"...
Lu Xun is worthy of being one of the founders of modern Chinese literature, and these details full of fireworks in the world are more than a mature and profound skill of a literary master.
Mr. Lu Xun's eating
When I was a child, the teacher went to class and labeled it according to the syllabus. Speaking of Mr. Lu Xun's novels, it is inevitable to emphasize the "criticism and criticism" and the like, and it is necessary to refine the central idea and summarize the general idea of the paragraph...
However, when it comes to "Dream of the Red Chamber", although it is also "a criticism of the ABCDEFG of feudal society", it can be read one by one in terms of clothes and diet.
In fact, the book is innocent, and the reader has a heart. Mr. Lu Xun's novels are also novels, and there are also places that depict the world. It's a shame to distill his novel into the central idea.
He has a good feeling for realist novels and is extremely well described. "Scream" writes more about zhejiang rural customs, and it is written very carefully.
One of the most frightening lines in The Diary of a Madman is that of steamed fish, "Fish eyes, white and hard, with an open mouth, like the group of people who want to eat people." After eating a few chopsticks, I don't know if the fish is a person." After I first read this sentence, I was creepy when I saw steamed fish for a few months. Later re-read and came up with another point:
"It turns out that Zhejiang people also steamed fish!"
A Friend from Guangdong summed up to me that fish that are eligible to be steamed are good fish. The steamed fish itself may not be happy, but it can be seen that the pindi is respected. There are some differences in the steamed fish eaten in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Guangdong. Jiangsu and Zhejiang steamed fish, in addition to the zhejiang coastal, most of them are fresh rivers and lakes, and there is the best river fresh. Cantonese steamed fish, a considerable proportion is marine fish. The elders of Jiangsu and Zhejiang who do not rely on the sea eat more fish and eat a taste. In our hometown, we generally don't treat fish as meat dishes, so we eat a fresh meal. Among the steamed fish in Guangdong, a considerable part is the so-called real meat fish. White Warehouse, Osmanthus Flower, Dragon Barn. You can eat meat.
Probably a typical fish steaming process in the Yangtze River Delta region is: a live fish is cleaned up, put on a plate, put onions and ginger, some also put mushroom shoot slices, and even put wine sugar and salt powder. Steam for 15 minutes and remove from the pan with sesame oil.
A typical Cantonese steamed fish process is: a live fish is cleaned up, the water is boiled before it is put down, steamed for 7 minutes, quickly sprinkled with green onion, and poured with cooked oil soy sauce. Fish meat is like jade, until the steaming does not see blood, two minutes more will be old.
I recognize many old Cantonese people, will make their own soy sauce to steam fish, whether it is first pickled and then steamed or steamed with soy sauce, are fine work, the heat is almost the slightest, not a master can not do.
Lu Xun's former residence
Fang Xuanqiu in "Dragon Boat Festival" is a "Mr. Almost", and his temperament is closer to the intellectuals in "Wandering". Although he was a scholar, he was quite oily and rogue, and when he had no money, he let the servants drink on credit.
Lotus white this kind of wine, the creation of the chronology is quite a lot, Yuan Ming and Qing dynasty said that there are heads. One of the methods I have heard is as simple as white wine with lotus buds. Legend has it that during the Republic of China, the lotus white in Beijing was invented by Mr. Bao Zhupo, and it is said that drinking lotus white in autumn and eating smoked goose wings to listen to autumn rain is a wonderful state of life, so, probably, the lotus white in the Republic of China is fresh and lovely, right?
"Hometown" has the famous leap soil and melon fields, as well as the famous character of tofu Xishi. Leap Soil sent Xun Ge'er his own dried green beans. We also dry green beans in the countryside, usually placed in large plaques to dry in the dirt field. After drying, it is equipped with bamboo shoots, which can be eaten as a snack and can be used as porridge. Green beans are not as crisp as dried soybeans, chew very tough, and are convenient and durable snacks. The gifts given by the leap earth are very much in line with the early rural norms: they are not expensive, but they are resistant to food and storage, and they are really useful. Fresh green beans, I am used to take scrambled eggs fried rice.
Xun Ge'er's mother knew that Yan Tu had not eaten lunch, so she asked him to go to the kitchen to eat fried rice. I suspect that the fried rice here is fried rice in oil. When I was a child, I used to eat egg fried rice - although my mother's skills were ordinary, just ordinary crushed gold rice, which could not be made "gold and silver", but there were eggs after all. One year when I went to the countryside to be kept for lunch, the neighbor brought a bowl of fried rice in oil and a bowl of soy sauce and scallion soup. The countryside is simple, fried rice in oil is fried rice with oil and salt, take a little oil aroma and taste, and do not let you chew dry rice. There seems to be a similar style in the countryside of Jiangnan: fried rice is better than white rice, inferior tea is better than white water, and it always means it, otherwise it will surprise the guests.
"Kong Yiji" contains rice wine, salt-boiled bamboo shoots and the famous fennel beans.
Yellow wine is indispensable in the books of Zhejiang writers, and yellow wine is an important plot prop in Yu Hua's "Xu Sanguan Selling Blood". Boiled bamboo shoots are probably boiled bamboo shoots in brine, which is a good thing to drink. Some people have also told me that the salt-boiled bamboo shoots are flat tips, not so sure. In my hometown, the flat tip is used to cook soup, stir-fry meat, etc., far more than wine. Fennel beans follow the name of Kong Yiji in the world, probably made of broad beans made of cinnamon, salt and fennel. Soft and sticky, its taste is timeless, and the snacks that have been famous for thousands of years, together with Jin Shengsi's "peanuts and dried tofu", are combined as the secret treasures of the reader's wine.
Stills from the movie "Medicine"
In "Medicine", when Hua Lao made the famous steamed bun, he was mistaken for fried rice porridge. There, the taste of fried rice porridge is very strange, some tough and some crisp and some sand, the aroma is certain. I heard that in the past, there were pregnant women in the countryside who loved to eat sweet, so they added brown sugar to cook fried rice porridge, which was very fragrant.
Hua Lao was served tea to people, and an olive was added to the tea bowl. This is somewhat similar to the tea that Meng Yulou gave Ximen Qing in "Jin Ping Mei". Olive tea is also called Yuanbao tea in my hometown, the elderly love to drink, you can go to the heat to cure sore throat.
Ah Q is a strange man in the history of Chinese fiction. Since it is so typical, it is rare to have a typical life everywhere, and it can be used as a model for the bored villagers in Zhejiang in the early 20th century.
Movie poster for "A Q True Biography"
Ah Q drank yellow wine, finished drinking and blew himself and Grandpa Zhao were a family, and was beaten in the mouth. Originally, rice wine was not as strong as liquor, and the people I saw drinking yellow wine were rarely drunk, and most of them were blushing and flying. Therefore, A Q is not often drunk, but the interest is easy to be high.
Fry the big head fish in oil, add half an inch of long green onion leaves, and add finely chopped green onions to the city. Ah Q takes weizhuang as the standard and takes the city as the fault. Thinking of this, my hometown often cooks dishes, seasoned with green onions, and all of them are filled with green onions. Fried red with chopped green onions, the fire is colorful. Fine-cutting of green onions seems to be the practice in the restaurant, and it seems to be mostly steamed fish.
Ah Q accidentally confessed to Wu Mama and became a street rat in Weizhuang, hungry and thinking, and went to the nunnery to steal something to eat. There are no bamboo shoots, because they are not ripe; the rapeseed is knotted, the cabbage will blossom, and the cabbage will be old--all of them cannot be eaten. In the end, he stole three old turnips, and as a result, he was almost bitten by a dog.
The details here are spot on: radishes can be eaten raw compared to bamboo shoots, rape, cabbage, cabbage, and cabbage. Old Beijing has a shouting, "radish sai pear, spicy change", cool and crisp. Grandma Zhao Lirong had a sketch at the Spring Festival Gala that year, and there was a dish called "Gathering of Heroes", which was to put it bluntly. Gong Hanlin also made up a song at that time: "It is particularly crispy to eat in the mouth." ”
Of course, Ah Q is still very pitiful, because it is an "old radish" picked. We eat radish here, paying attention to new crispness. The proverb "Eating radish to heat tea, angry doctor crawling all over the street" is well known, but if it is herbal tea + turnips, it is not boring. The radish is soft and the taste is discounted. Old radishes are unsaving, unscrupted and usually spicy and heavy, not too tasty. If you simply make dried radish, it is a pity that A Q is too lazy to cook the bamboo shoots, most of them are eaten raw.
The main scene in "The Storm" is eating, so rice is indispensable. First of all, "black steamed dried vegetables" and "pine yellow rice" are served, and the picture sense is very strong.
Dried vegetables, moldy dried vegetables, the world knows, after steaming still has a dry crisp and crispy taste; its taste is mellow, steamed with the buckle meat, borrowed the fat and sweet paste of pork belly, sweet and crisp, rich and fragrant, soul-destroying. Even if you don't make button meat, just take it to the next meal: the taste of moldy dried vegetables is fresh and sweet, the taste is dry and crispy, spread on the soft glutinous rice, the color, taste, and taste have a very gorgeous contrast, very tempting.
Rice is loose and yellow, and I know for probably two reasons. One is that the rice is not eaten immediately after it is finished, and the high temperature is stuffy for a long time, and it seems to be yellowed; the second is brown rice cooking. In "The Storm", I suspect it is the latter. Mr. Wang Zengqi said that in the previous rice shop, no one bought polished rice. It is not that people cannot afford to buy polished rice, but they are accustomed to eating brown rice, and they feel that eating polished rice is a bit "sinful".
The nine-pound old lady lamented that "a generation is not as good as a generation" and complained that eating fried beans would eat a poor family. Six pounds of beans were hidden and eaten alone. The old lady also complained that the beans were hard.
Zhejiang people eat soybeans that are not as dense as in the north, so I suspect that the so-called fried beans are mostly the kind of green beans sent by Xun Ge'er in "Hometown". Green beans are fried with salt, tough and crisp, and like melon seeds, once eaten, they are not finished. But sometimes it does get harder, and the old people hate it.
Although "Wind Wave" is short, it summarizes the face of Zhejiang folk food, and there is no less than a miniature version of "Qingming River Map". Moldy dried vegetables, brown rice, fried beans, if you add the salty hotel's rice wine, fennel beans, salt boiled bamboo shoots, very reflect the Zhejiang people's feelings. There is also a scene detail:
The family of the nine-pound old lady ate in the dirt yard in front of their homes. So Zhao Qiye could talk to people all the way and come over.
In the countryside, we used to have this custom: subtropical, so everyone can eat outdoors, a wooden house, in front of the door everyone set up a low table, a small stool to eat, each chicken and dog smell each other, while eating can be across three or five houses loudly chat. When everyone was full, they drank tea from an enamel cup and burped their breath.
"Social Drama" is the freshest novel of Mr. Lu Xun, a pastoral water town, and the wind god is handsome. Start to say fishing shrimp to eat, Jiangsu and Zhejiang townships to do shrimp generally try to save trouble, put ginger in the water to boil shrimp, take the river shrimp sweet original taste, if it is too light, and then add soy sauce.
The best plot is the boiled Luohan beans that return from the social drama. It is said that the Luohan bean is "strong" and has aroused people's appetite; Xun Ge'er took the lead in peeling the beans and boiled them with salt and firewood from the Hachiko ship to eat them. Luohan bean person, broad bean also. Boiled fava beans in salt water are not as delicious as fennel beans, but newly peeled broad beans have the fragrance of beans, and the taste is tender and crispy, which is very delicious. Moreover, the atmosphere at that time was really too good: on the river at night, mooring boat friends, hungry in the moonlight to eat boiled broad beans, suddenly there is a poetry. At the end, the pod shell was poured into the river, and the moon returned home.
You see, just putting Mr. Lu Xun on a bunch of titles of what kind of family can not help but ignore his tenderness. None of the descriptions of the water towns in Jiangsu and Zhejiang that I have seen are more warm and innocent than eating watercress on the night of the moon and night in this community drama.
Mr. Lu Xun wrote "Scream", the wild atmosphere of Shaoxingnong's hometown. Writing "Wandering", the intellectual atmosphere in many cities. But the opening "Blessing" is still a bit idyllic.
Stills from Blessings (1956).
In the old days, blessings were mainly sacrifices, killing chickens, slaughtering geese, and buying pork. In fact, the ancestors have passed away, one may not be able to eat, the other may not love to eat - the heavenly gods love to eat jindan peach, the Gushe Mountain immortals love to eat wind and drink dew, you get a bunch of high fat and high protein, the ancestors may not digest it. Of course, the sacrifices in our country are mainly for the living, so with the heart of the living to live in the belly of the dead, just eat it.
I asked a friend in Zhejiang, and he said that the blessing of the old age was to cook five animals and worship them, and then eat them with boiled rice cakes boiled with five animals to "scatter blessings." I guess the five animals are boiled in white, and they are not very good.
Xun Ge'er saw Xiang Lin's sister-in-law and wanted to eat stewed shark fin soup. Shark fin soup is famous for borrowing flavor dishes, relying on good soup; Yuan Mei also said that he could not save materials, otherwise beggars would sell rich and show their poor appearance. Now of course, it is not recommended to eat, not to mention. Probably the detail of shark fin soup is more like saying that Xun Ge'er and Xiang Lin sister-in-law are not a class of people.
Xiang Lin's sister-in-law tao rice under the pot, planning to steam edamame. When cooking, steaming things by the way, Gangnam is very common, steamed meat, fish. The rice is cooked, the dish is steamed, and the aroma of the plummeting fifi. Both steamed and boiled edamame are refreshing ways to eat. Pay attention to adding some oil to add aroma, but most of it is steamed. The edamame is steamed, crispy and sticky, and the coolness of the edamame itself is very good for serving wine.
"Happy Life" is a super satirical text, forcing you to fantasize about a perfect scene, and i have a friend who is a fashion editor laments that many low-level editors are repeating similar lives: eating steamed buns and cold water, chatting about bear paw bird's nest.
It is said that the male protagonist wanted to eat at that time, he wanted to come to the bowl of "Dragon and Tiger Fighting", but he did not know whether the Dragon tiger bucket was a snake + cat or a frog + eel.
When I was a child, I always wondered, what is so delicious about snakes, as for being so tight? Later, as a result of discussion with people, the ancient Lingnan zhuangtian was not abundant, the grain was difficult to grow, and the animals were more, so taking snakes to eat was also considered to supplement protein. Guangdong has snake porridge, snake hot pot, there is snake soup, but the snake soup in the snake wisps like silk, and chicken shredded taste similar, before eating there is a ritual, to take a snake bile, to show that "we are real." In the novel, the fantasy dragon and tiger fight and the real cabbage pile are just in contrast.
It is said that in the past, when the food supply was not developed, many places in the north had to try their best to hoard cabbage in order to survive the winter, vegetables were rare, and cucumbers with "hole goods" had to be cited as a treasure. Cabbage and turnips are a treasure for ordinary people. The appearance of ice and jade is also light and crisp and refreshing to eat, and how to do it is delicious. And the personality is easy to condition. The simplest, take the shabu-shabu, dip a little garlic oil or sesame sauce can eat, but also to relieve the greasy lamb; finally can not finish eating, you can also make mustard piers.
"Wounded Death" is a portrayal of the real life of young men and young women in literature and art, and in the end, Zijun finally exhausted and left "salt, dried peppers, flour, and half a cabbage". No matter how much love that does not eat fireworks in the world, after all, it will also have chai rice oil and salt. What intrigued me was the three words "dried chili peppers." I went to Guizhou, Central Sichuan, and Jiangxi, and I have seen people who love dried peppers. But in Zhejiang and even Jiangnan, dried peppers are rarer. Of course, Mr. Lu Xun is famous for his love of spicy food, and he probably substituted himself here.
Stills from the movie "Wounded Death"
In "The Lonely Man", when the lonely Wei Lian is quite lonely, Xun Ge'er buys shochu, peanut rice and two smoked fish heads to see him. I'm not sure what kind of smoked fish head it is, because the smoking method seems to vary from place to place. Smoked fish in my hometown is marinated in wine and soy sauce. Wait until the fish is marinated until it tastes good, then fry it and add seasonings. After the fish is smoked, it is crispy and fragrant, and the frying temperature is larger, which can be compared with the crispy eel.
"On the Restaurant" is considered by some to be a novel with "the richest Lu Xun atmosphere". I personally thought that the ending, "It was dusk, and the houses and streets were woven in the pure white and uncertain net of dense snow", which was very beautiful. According to the overall cold atmosphere, Lu Weifu added a wandering self-description, which is extremely desolate.
The only warmer in the whole text is only these few dishes: first "one pound of Shaojiu", then "ten oil tofu, more spicy sauce", and "fennel beans, frozen meat, oil tofu, dried green fish".
Oil tofu is fried tofu and then boiled in water. After the tofu is fried, it is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, and the taste is excellent, and the inside will be as soft and transparent as silk. Because it is hollow, the soup is boiled and the meat is brewed. The novel is eaten by boiling and adding hot sauce. Mr. Lu Xun's love of eating spicy food can be seen. And his old man's taste is quite heavy, lamenting that the hot sauce is thin, "originally the people of S City did not know how to eat spicy."
Dried green fish, when my hometown celebrates the New Year, my family will make itself, taking the mouth color of "more than enough every year". The bluefish was cut, a few holes were pierced, salted, and the head and tail of the fish were chopped into another stew. I've heard that there are people with good craftsmen who can eat the blue fish with sake (Sichuan's so-called mash), soy sauce and other pickles. In the novel, it is probably an ordinary dried green fish, which can be eaten empty to drink, or steamed and eaten.
After this dish came up, the novel's so-called "upstairs added smoke and oil tofu heat, as if it was lively; the snow outside the building also fell more and more." That means that in addition to boiling oil tofu and spicy sauce, the other dishes are probably cold dishes. Originally, the novel was cold and cold, and it was indeed only suitable for these dishes. If there is a large bowl of rock sugar elbows, braised crucian carp, and sweet and sour ribs, the lonely tone of the novel will be destroyed. In this way, rice wine, boiled tofu and several Kinds of Shaoxing pickled and refrigerated wine dishes are similar to the cold beef of Lin Chong Feng Xueshan Temple. You can still feel the chill, but not the cold in the world.
Originally, winter diet was like this. Eat spicy hot pot to sweat, forget the time of this night, after all, too little and too little. Most of the time, like "In the Restaurant", we sip tea and hot wine alone. As in the novel, in the cold winter of Jiangnan, which is soaked in the skin and not into the bone, it is almost enough to make up a little warmth.
Comprehensive | "Is this book delicious" and Phoenix Network Reading
Source: Language Learning