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The History of the Song Dynasty is an important document describing the clothing system of the Song Dynasty. Among them, the "crown clothing chapter" records in detail the relevant information of clothing, including shape, pattern, color and compatibility.
and the process of discussion and revision of dress regulations through the dynasties. It is a valuable material for studying the clothing system and clothing form of the Song Dynasty.
According to the records of the "Public Opinion Service Chronicle", the clothing system of the Song Dynasty basically followed the Han and Tang dynasties, and the names of the costumes described in it were greatly simplified compared with those of the Tang Dynasty, but the regulations on the color of the clothing were more rigorous and detailed.
In addition, the "color of uniforms" has been further continued and developed, and has continued to become the main symbol of the distinction between officials and officials in the Song Dynasty.
According to the rank of the characters, the "History of the Song Dynasty and the Records of Public Opinion" describes the names of each costume according to the order of the emperor, the prince, the concubine, the wife and the hundred officials.
Through the combing of the text of the "Yufu Zhi", we classified the color information of the clothing according to the different occasions of taking it, and divided it into four categories: sacrificial clothes, court clothes, official clothes and concubine dresses.
The colors of each part were classified separately, and the overall color appearance of each part was summarized according to the color tendency covering a large part of the body area, so as to peek into the characteristics of the clothing color system in the Song Dynasty.
I. Vestments
The crown dress is a sacrificial dress, which is the clothing worn by the emperor, the prince and the ministers on major sacrificial occasions.
The crown is composed of two parts: the crown and the clothes. Among them, the shape of the crown is quite different, and the shape of the clothing and accessories is relatively unified, all of which are in the form of tops and bottoms.
The regulations on various parts of the costume in the "History of the Song Dynasty" are relatively comprehensive, and the emperor's crown dress has also undergone many reforms.
From the perspective of clothing composition, clothes, clothes, and knee covers most of the area of the crown dress, and its color tendency determines the overall color tendency of the crown dress.
Judging from the table, there are five main colors that constitute the main colors of the crown clothes: blue, red, silk, xuan, and crimson.
Among them, green and Xuan belong to the black series. Red, 纁, and crimson are all red. There are two kinds of cyan in mainland culture, one is greenish blue, such as Longquan kiln celadon has "azure", "bean green", "pink blue" and other colors.
The other is a blackish blue, such as the lime blue in Chinese painting paints. The cyan color in the costume should be blue, which is a blue with a bias towards black. The dark color is reddish black.
There is a cloud in "Zhou Li, Winter Official, and Examination Record": "The sky is the mystery, and the earth is the yellow." Jia Gongyan Shu: "Tianxuan and Northern Black, the two are much the same. "I think that black is similar to black.
"Guangya" has: "If you put in the black juice, you will be cyanosis, and if you put it into the black juice, you will be the yuan." ”
"Yuan" means "Xuan", and it can be seen that "Xuan" should be a slightly reddish black. Zheng Xuan once explained in "Xuanyi Silkening": "The soil is located in the south, and the south is red and yellow in color, so it is also a silk file." ”
Therefore, "纁" is a slightly yellowish red. The change in the color of the dress in the Song Dynasty is the inheritance and development of the previous generation, and the larger change is the change of "Xuanyi" to "Tsing Yi".
The above colors are all blue and red. All belong to one of the five square colors, reflecting the legitimacy of the crown dress.
II. Morning clothes
As can be seen from the table, in addition to the crimson and red colors commonly used in the crown clothes, the court clothes of the emperor and the courtiers also have two colors: crimson and soap. "Crimson" means "crimson", i.e., bright red.
The word "Jiang", "Shuowen Jiezi" is interpreted as: "Da Chi also." Duan note: "The big red one, the so-called big red is also popular." 4 Therefore, the crimson color is the same as the red system, and the scarlet and vermilion all belong to the red system.
The soap color is black. The edges of the Song Dynasty court clothes were all soap-colored, while in the regular clothes they were the color used for shoes. In the Song Dynasty, soap was the color of the uniform of officials and scholars.
At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, Taizong ordered when he was rejuvenating the country: "In the old system, the Shu people served white, and now the foreign officials and the Gongju people and the Shu people are invited to serve soap." "During the Southern Song Dynasty," in Chunxi, Zhu Xi set the clothes for sacrifice and marriage...... The priest wore a hat, a soap shirt, and a belt.
Wearing a soap shirt has become a formal dress, and it is also a regular dress for communication. To sum up, it can be seen that the main color of the court dress is composed of red, color and crimson. It is trimmed with black (soap).
3. Public and regular services
In the Song Dynasty, official clothes and regular clothes were usually matched with heads, robes, belts and shoes. In addition to the material and pattern of the belt, the grading is mainly distinguished by the color of the robe.
Yellow was a popular color of clothing for subjects in the Sui Dynasty, and emperors and nobles mostly wore yellow silk robes.
In the Tang Dynasty, the yellow robe gradually became the exclusive use of the emperor, and the scholars were not allowed to wear it. This yellow robe is reddish-yellow, i.e., the color of yellow with a red tinge. In the first year of the "General Chapter, everything is not allowed to be yellow." ”
Later, the Zhou general Zhao Kuangyin planned the Chenqiao Mutiny, and the yellow robe was added to the body to establish the Northern Song Dynasty.
"Yellow robe" or "yellow robe" was regarded as a symbol of the emperor's power, and the "History of the Song Dynasty" changed the color of the yellow robe to ochre yellow and light yellow, and since then yellow has become the emperor's special clothing color.
At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, the robes of the ministers followed the color of the Tang Dynasty, which were "purple, vermilion, green, and green", and then the color system was reformed many times. Since the first year of Yuanfeng, go to green, wear purple, crimson, green three colors.
This restructuring was unanimously applied to ZTE. Two years after Taizong's peaceful rejuvenation of the country, in addition to the color of clothing specified by grade, specific official positions can be "borrowed purple" and "borrowed scarlet".
The so-called "borrowed service" refers to those who have not reached a certain official quality, and can be licensed to serve expensive colors. If the official grade does not reach the third grade, because of the ministry charter purple, it is called borrowing purple.
According to the official position, you can only wear the color of your own clothes. Song Taizong sometimes had officials who could change their clothes after two years.
Therefore, some ministers are worried: "Zhu and purple are one after another, and they are also indiscriminate?" There are more vivid poems among the people: "Zhu Zigui of the Manchu Dynasty is full of scholars." ”
Fourth, the color of the concubine's wife
There are two main colors of the concubines' dresses in the past dynasties: black and blue. Since the Sui Dynasty, it has been dominated by cyan. In the Tang Dynasty, the robes and robes were all blue, the bow clothes were yellow, and the hairpin dress was variegated.
The description of the concubine's costume in "History of the Song Dynasty and the Records of Public Opinion" is not comprehensive and confusing. Judging by the records, it is still mostly cyan and yellow. The leather belt is also covered in cyan and yellow.
The statue of Song Shenzong, the statue of Empress Zhang Yi Li of Song Zhenzong and the statue of Empress Xuanzu of Song Dynasty can be seen in the color and appearance of several dresses.
In addition, according to the record of "Song Hui Yao", the Song Dynasty Tianchai dress was crimson and made of scarlet. To sum up, it can be seen that the color of clothing presented in the Song Dynasty clothing system: the color tendency of the crown clothing system is black and red.
These two colors have the largest application area and belong to the same five-square color, reflecting the legitimacy of the crown dress.
The court clothes are uniformly red with "crimson", "red" and "crimson". Black and cyan are only used on the edges of crowns, cairns and garments, and are used to a lesser extent.
The color of public clothing and regular clothing continued the color system of the Tang Dynasty, and on this basis, systems such as "borrowing purple" and "giving purple" were added. At this time, the color system added a reward system, which was borrowed or rewarded from time to time for use by specific deacons and officials.
The color of the concubine's dress is simpler than that of the men's dress, except for the yellow of the bow clothes, the others are mainly black and blue, which has not changed much from the previous generation.
The clothing information recorded in the "History of the Song Dynasty and the Records of Public Clothing" represents the officially recognized form of clothing.
However, with the development of social economy, there were many phenomena of clothing encroachment in the late Song Dynasty, especially in the color of clothing.
There are also many descriptions of the prohibition of clothing colors in the "Yufu Zhi", which shows that the clothing color in the Song Dynasty was more common.