The first "luxury" of winter, you can't grab it
When the first cold wind of winter penetrates into your chest and makes you shiver unexpectedly, you know: it's time to prepare your clothes for the winter.
When it comes to the eternal hot topic of winter clothing every year, three words are enough: down jackets, and almost every year there will be a brand that is hotly discussed by the whole people. In 2020, the appearance of Canada goose pushed up the price of down jackets in one fell swoop, in 2021, Beimen became almost a "street coat" for everyone, and in 2022, Descente and skiing have set off a craze in China.
No one expected that feng shui would take turns, and this year's wealth was poured on the head of the military coat.
A group of people wearing military coats has become an art by now. (Photo/Network)
"One person is embarrassed to wear it, two people wear it to be a conspicuous bag, and a group of people wear it to lead fashion. When young people found that they only needed less than 100 yuan to buy a cotton military coat weighing five or six pounds, genuine, and the ability to withstand the cold seemed to be comparable to a down jacket, wearing a military coat became a trend-setting "performance art".
When the ridicule of "it's not that down jackets can't be bought, but that military coats are more cost-effective" spread by word of mouth, young people wearing military coats and cotton jackets are not only carrying out consumption downgrades, but also "protesting" in consumption.
"Sincerely ask for a winter dress, the price is best within 10,000 yuan, about 50 yuan, online, etc., very urgent. When the topic of "domestic down jackets sold for 7,000 yuan" appeared on Weibo hot search, many young people were anxious: "After so many years of hard work, I can't even afford a down jacket now?"
Fortunately, there are also enduring "Oriental fashion robes" - military coats - to protect the wallets of young people. The genuine cotton military coat does not pick the figure, does not pick the face, and even does not pick the wallet, the average price is 50-80 yuan, and the most expensive is not more than 200 yuan. Even if the price is calculated at 80 yuan / piece, a 7,000 yuan domestic down jacket can be exchanged for at least 87.5 military coats, no wonder college students always place orders in groups.
In film and television works, military coats are also common. (Photo/"Happiness Like Flowers")
A group of college students wrapped in military coats and walked into the classroom with a smile and a smile, which was the new sense of ceremony of the "early eight"; at the Winter Games, the phalanx wearing military coats and cotton jackets was always the "fashion trend-setter" with the highest rate of return; military coats have also become the best "medical beauty" for contemporary male college students -- diligence and thrift and not showing off wealth are the greatest virtues.
According to data from an e-commerce platform, the sales of military coats this year increased by 181% year-on-year, which is a well-deserved "top stream" this winter. A merchant said: "In almost a week, the sales volume of the entire winter of previous years were sold." ”
In addition to the affordable price, the military coat also awakens the identity of "the customer is God" and gradually returns to the consumption concept of "practical first". Compared with the down jacket that cannot be machine washed, hand washed, or scratched by "serving", the military coat is obviously more "approachable".
The outer material of the military coat is wear-resistant and dirt-resistant, so you don't have to worry about getting dirty or scratching when you wear it, and even if it is really broken, the cotton will not easily drill out. A military coat that can be worn and covered when you go out, and you can use it as a towel to wipe your hands after washing your hands.
The military coat has become a label of the times. (Photo/"The Sea in My Dreams")
For many southerners, most of the uncommon military coats only exist in the northern stories on the screen. Military coats can be found everywhere on the streets of the north, but it is difficult to find an offline store that sells military coats in Guangzhou.
Although he is a native of Guangdong, Wei Sheng has a special fate with the military coat, "In the winter of 2008, it was the military coat that 'saved my life'." At that time, down jackets were still not so popular "luxury" in the south - "In the winter above 0 °C, the padded jacket was covered and the legs were shaking. ”
"It was surprisingly cold that year, my dad took out the military coat that had been pressed at the bottom of the wardrobe for many years, and I was wearing it and watching TV, putting my hands in my sleeves, and my legs were not shaking, and I felt so warm at that time. Recently, the military coat was hotly searched, and Weisheng found out that the military coat was so cheap, but now that he has several down jackets at home, he no longer needs the military coat, "The military coat is really too heavy, like a thick quilt with a row of buttons."
The military coats on the market are of uneven quality and have many bad reviews - "threads everywhere" and "the fabric is too poor". (Photo/Screenshot of shopping platform)
To some extent, military coats can resist frost, but not much. In a really cold outdoor environment, the warmth of a military coat is not outstanding. Netizens once had an image analogy: "There is a reason why the military coat was eliminated later, and this thing is like a layer of paper in the snowstorm in the Northeast." ”
In order to test the frost resistance of the military coat, some video bloggers specially wore the military coat to the snowy Northeast Snow Town, and came to the conclusion that the practicality is slightly lower, the military coat is more suitable for taking pictures and punching cards, and the warmth has to rely on the down jacket.
Wearing a military coat weighing five or six pounds is like going out with a quilt, coupled with the thick snow, it can be said that it is difficult to move an inch. What's more, this "quilt" is still a little leaky - a one-size-fits-all military coat may not fit, loose cuffs, whirring into the wind, and a hem without buttons, wafting a cold wind.
We are not wearing the same military coat. (Photo/"Out of the Jade Gate in the West")
However, small shortcomings do not prevent the law of "fashion is a cycle" from being vividly reflected in the military coat. Before the 80s of the 20th century, the military coat was the "national coat" that every Chinese dreamed of. Later, with the development of social economy and the emergence of down jackets and other clothing, military coats gradually faded out of the mainstream clothing market, but they are still active in various winter film and television crews, mountaineering rental shops and other scenes.
The unshakable practicality and ultra-high cost performance of the military coat have become its "soft power" that has been prosperous for a long time and has set off a boom from time to time. After the carnival craze, the military coat may not be popular for long, but the consumption concept of "practicality first" seems to become a trend that lasts longer.
No matter how hard the young man's mouth is, he can't shake the fact that in addition to cheap, thick and heavy military coats, they are obviously not as light and warm as down jackets. Even in the 21st century, where materials engineering is highly developed, there is no artificial material that retains warmth better than bird fluff per unit weight at the same level.
The small wind and waves set off by "revolutionary materials" such as air down jackets, polar fleece, and hot leather cannot shake the irreplaceable warmth of down jackets in the cold winter for the time being.
In the poll of 85,000 people, 77.6% of netizens thought that down jackets were "more expensive and more than budget". (Picture/Network screenshot)
Guangdong in December still "failed in winter". Su Su turned out the short sleeves stuffed in the depths of the wardrobe, blew the electric fan, and chose a down jacket on his mobile phone, "I heard that there is the strongest cold wave of the year in mid-December, and it will cool down like a cliff."
Many offline clothing stores have put down jackets and coats in a more conspicuous position, wearing short-sleeved down jackets, which has become a unique "landscape" in Guangdong. Su Su, who had a budget of about 1,000 yuan, found that he could only choose Uniqlo in the end, "It's not that I can't afford it, I just don't think it's worth it."
According to data from the China National Commercial Information Center, the average price of down jackets in China has risen from 438 yuan to 656 yuan between 2015 and 2020. The price of large-scale cold-proof clothing has exceeded 1,000 yuan, and the proportion of more than 2,000 yuan is close to 70%.
There is not much time left for you to buy a down jacket. (Photo/"Little Forest Winter and Spring")
According to the suggestion of Zhu Wei, director of the Information Department of the China Down Industry Association, the filling capacity of short down jackets of general thickness is about 130 grams, and the filling capacity of medium thickness is about 180 grams, and the filling capacity of down jackets suitable for outdoor wear in northern winter should be more than 180 grams.
The average price of down jackets is four or five hundred yuan, and the filling amount is mostly less than 130 grams, which is more suitable for the south where the temperature is above 0 °C in winter. For the north, where it is often minus ten or twenty degrees Celsius, it is necessary to buy a down jacket with a higher filling capacity to keep warm enough, which also means that the price is at least more than 1,000 yuan.
Not long ago, the topic of the average price of Bosideng down jackets rising to 1,600 yuan appeared on the hot search. In fact, as early as 2021, Zhu Gaofeng, chief financial officer and vice president of Bosideng, publicly stated that the average price of down jackets in the group as a whole has risen to 1,600 yuan, and the average price will increase to 2,000 yuan in the next three years, with the main sales price between 1,500 and 1,800 yuan.
Although the Bosideng down jacket that can hit the shirt when you throw garbage downstairs has long been "flooded on the street", the price of two or three thousand yuan is obviously not so close to the people.
The down jacket contempt chain sorted out by netizens, and Bosideng, which is at the "waist", has made many people "unclimbable". (Photo/@靳老师想开了)
"If you think about it, it's only about 20 yuan to buy a box of cold medicine, and it's still cost-effective to buy cold medicine. "With a monthly salary of four or five thousand yuan and a down jacket of more than seven thousand yuan, I might as well lie at home for a few months and wait for the weather to warm up before going to work." "I can't buy a favorite down jacket with a budget of 1,000 yuan, so young people can only choose to "put it bad" - don't buy it!
Although the pursuit of high-end down jacket brands has achieved a premium through "fashion design", "brand co-branding", "celebrity endorsement", "original technology" and "aviation materials", they do not realize that the rising prices have gradually exceeded consumers' psychological expectations.
After all, if you want to pick a down jacket that is warm enough for winter, you should not only focus on the brand, price, and design, but also learn to look at the washing label. There are only three factors that affect the warmth of a down jacket: down content, filling amount and fill power. These are all clearly written on the wash label. The "Down Clothing" standard, which was officially implemented in April 2022, revised the "down content" to "down content", and the quality requirements for filling down are more stringent.
The higher the down content of the down jacket, the better, the highest is 95%, the larger the number of grams of down filling, the warmer, and the more fluffy than 800 is high-quality down, the highest is currently 1000. Are you buying a function, or a gimmick? (Picture/Network Screenshot)
Before buying a down jacket, the first question you should think about is: what do you need is a warm down jacket that "in the middle of winter, I have an invincible summer", or a "luxury" that can earn the attention of others?
In order to buy the down jacket he wanted, Su Su finally contacted an old classmate who worked in Uniqlo, and bought a long down jacket with a six-fold employee price of 1299 yuan; Weisheng's down jacket with a down filling capacity of 292 grams, more than 300 yuan was in hand, "buying down jackets out of season, plus breaking the code and clearing the goods, it is very cost-effective"; there are many people who are eyeing college down jackets, up to 500 grams of down filling, only need less than 1,000 yuan, although the "duck flavor" is a bit heavy, but at least the price is more fragrant than the brand.
The wallet is kept, the down jacket is in hand, and they are the real winners.
Tsinghua University, Peking University, China Opera, Nortel and other northern universities will launch down school uniforms with school logos. (Photo/Screenshot of Peking University's Cultural and Creative Mini Program)
In the Korean drama "Little Ladies", Kim Go-eun plays an ordinary girl from a poor family, Oh In-joo, when she is asked "what do you want to buy if you have money", her answer is not a mansion or a luxury bag in the city center, but a winter coat.
"It's easy to see if a person is poor or not, and in the summer they can barely dress like others, but winter clothes are too expensive. "Linking spending power to wealth, success, happiness, etc., is undoubtedly the biggest "conspiracy" in the consumer society.
The British sociologist and thinker Zygmunt Baumann pointed out in "Work, Consumerism and the New Poor" that in today's consumer society, the "new poor" are not the poor who cannot survive in the sense of survival, but only the "defective" consumers, the spiritual "poverty" caused by insufficient purchasing power and consumption.
When "consumer" becomes the primary identity of people, criteria such as happiness, sense of worth, social class and self-esteem will largely depend on spending power and consumer experience. In fact, we can't be the "perfect consumer" that the consumer market craves to buy whatever they want, and we won't.
There is no end to the comparison in consumption. (Photo/"Little Ladies")
Fortunately, many young people have woken up from the illusion of consumerism, and the focus of mass consumption has returned to the quality of products or the experience itself.
The young man who chose the military coat, abandoned the label and found a life back.
(Names have been changed)
Resources:
[1] Before the military coat, after the down jacket丨Jinan Daily
[2] There are no words on the down jacket, no matter how cheap it is, don't buy it!
[3] With a monthly income of tens of thousands, I still can't save money?
Written by Jia Hui
Edit Strawberry Crisp
Proofread by Lai Xiaoni
Typesetting Yu Liling
Cover "The Beautiful Sister Who Often Invites You to Dinner"
Header image "Lonely and Brilliant God: Ghosts"
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