laitimes

"Technology" perfume technology

1 Trivalue theory

spices:

1, odorous substances are spices;

2. Odorous substances used for the preparation of flavors.

Flavor: A mixture of more than 2 spices.

Perfume: Flavors are formulated with alcohol.

Perfume

- Imitation incense

After the sample is stained on the incense paper, it is sniffed in sections, and what is smelled within half an hour is the head incense; what is smelled is the body fragrance in 0.5-4 hours; and what is smelled after 4 hours is the base incense. Each paragraph can guess several spices, estimate the amount of use, write on the paper, all written and then begin to mix, after dozens of changes in the formula after the aroma is close to the original.

After having a gas chromatography analysis method, first play chromatography, according to the data obtained by the "100% normalization method", guess what spices may be at each peak according to the "retention schedule of various spices" or mass spectrometry data, and try to match after guessing.

After the sample to be tested is dissolved uniformly, the chromatography is played, and the chromatogram and data sheet of the imitation are controlled, the gap is found, and the amount of each spice is increased or decreased until the sample is close to the sample being imitated.

Generally speaking, both methods are used at the same time, and the efficiency of imitation incense can be improved.

------------------

Chuangxiang motivation:

1. Discover in the process of imitation incense, resulting in the desire to create incense;

2. Get the spices of the new fragrance type and try to develop a new fragrance type of fragrance;

3, see some spice flavor articles, some words lead to new ideas to create incense;

4. The user's or salesman's idea of creating incense brings the psychology of "try it out";

5. Compound essential oils used in aromatherapy.

The process of creating incense

Determine the "theme": the aroma of a spice can sometimes also be used as a theme, more often several main fragrances form a more unique aroma, with this aroma as the theme. After the theme is determined, it is modified to make the aroma round and some, pleasant. Finally, adjust the formula to balance the overall aroma (mainly the addition and subtraction of the head fragrance and the base fragrance, so that the flavor aroma will not be too dull or increase the persistence of the fragrance).

Two styles of perfume

(1) "Capture inspiration method" - slowly conceive, slowly mix, do more experiments when there is "inspiration", and do less or stop when there is no "inspiration".

(2) "Crazy work method" - 20 flavors a day, there is an idea to match a few flavors, and finally a large number of "shooting", leaving only a few "hope" of the incense group to evaluate the incense.

"Crazy work method" is currently more popular "incense" working method, computer perfume is most suitable for this working method, in the case of meeting some basic conditions (including the cost of preparation), the computer can quickly draw up many formulas for testing. Without the help of a computer, you may have worked hard to concoct a more "ideal" fragrance, but because the cost is too high, the aroma intensity is low, or the fragrance is not long enough, you have to repeat it again.

Trivalue theory

Significance: Let the ancient art of perfume take the road of science.

In any discipline, mathematics is considered scientific only after it has been applied and some accepted mathematical laws have been satisfied.

Examples: Darwin's "theory of evolution" and Mendel's "genetics".

The three-value theory is the theoretical basis of perfume and the main basis for the design of computer perfume software, so to learn to perfume well, you must first learn the "three-value theory".

Since ancient times, perfumers basically rely on experience to work, "mathematics" seems to have no connection with perfumers - after adjusting a perfume, calculate the percentage of each spice in it, only use addition, subtraction, multiplication and division of four operations, the mathematical knowledge learned in elementary school is enough - this is no different from other arts, people who do not know staves, do not understand 1234567 can also sing moving songs, can also play beautiful songs, but if you learn staves, know more about music theory will definitely sing better. Played even more beautifully. In the same way, perfumers who have mastered the "three values" theory of spice flavors are more confident about each perfume work, and they are more able to concoct flavors that are satisfactory and satisfying to themselves.

Everything in the world, as long as it becomes a commodity, we will always give it some data to describe its size, quality, performance, etc., but "incense" - including spices and flavors are the most headache and elusive, people can only use extremely vague words to describe them for a long time: the aroma is "better" good, the aroma intensity is "relatively" large, the fragrance is "more" durable, and so on. The people who speak are struggling, the people who listen are also struggling, and in the end they still can't hear any specific content.

Incense ratio strength

People use the same terms as other "sensations" in olfactory, and thresholds — the lowest olfactory concentration — are the first words to be used to evaluate the intensity of spice aromas, and although each person feels differently about each spice, resulting in several different experimental data for a spice, it is statistically significant. The smaller the threshold of a spice, the greater its aroma intensity. The reciprocal of the threshold is generally considered to be the "aroma intensity value" of the spice.

As we all know, the aroma intensity of ethyl vanillin is about 3 times stronger than vanillin, but in some data, the threshold of ethyl vanillin is higher than that of vanillin! The threshold of alpha Turkone in water is 0.002 ppb, and the threshold of ethyl Turkone in water is 1.5-100 ppb, and the aroma intensity of the two can never be more than 750 times different! The threshold of methyl salicylate in water is 40, the threshold of caryophyllene in water is 64, and the aroma intensity of the two is generally considered to be more than 10 times different! These examples all show that there is no mathematical relationship between aroma intensity and threshold.

If we artificially determine the aroma intensity of a commonly used monomer spice by a value, and other monomer spices are "taken" and compared with it (aroma intensity), we can obtain the relative aroma intensity values of various spice monomers. We (in 1995) proposed a set of data that set phenethyl alcohol as 10 and other monomeric fragrances are compared to it, called "incense ratio strength value", which is the first "value" of the "three values" of fragrance flavors.

The incense ratio strength value of various commonly used spices and the other two "values" (incense value and incense value) are listed in the "Trilogy Table of Commonly Used Spices" in spice and flavor books such as "Perfume Technique" and "Daily Necessities Plus Incense", which are easy to consult.

The strong value of the fragrance ratio of the fragrance can be calculated by the strong value of the fragrance and the formula, and now give an example of jasmine flavor as follows:

"Technology" perfume technology

Its incense ratio is strong

(50×25+10×100+10×250+10×10+10×2+4×5+1×600+5×160)÷100=62.90。

The application of the incense ratio is very widespread, for the use of incense manufacturers, the most important point is that you can intuitively know how much "aroma strength" of the flavor purchased or ready to be purchased, because the "aroma strength" is related to the amount of flavor, which directly affects the cost of preparation. For example, the preparation of a shampoo, the original use of a jasmine essence, the incense ratio strong value is 100, the amount of addition is 0.5%, and now want to switch to another fragrance, the incense ratio strong value is 125, obviously as long as 0.4% is added.

As we all know, the purpose of adding incense is nothing more than: cover the smell (cover up the smell), and give incense. Many of the unscented semi-finished products and raw materials are odorous, and to cover up these "odors", the aroma intensity is of course greater. If you can get the information on the specific value of these raw materials, you can estimate through calculation how much flavor must be used to "cover" it. Generally rely on their own experiments to get these information, the simplest way is to use a known fragrance than the strong value of the fragrance to add to the unscented semi-finished products, to get at least how much fragrance to "cover" the "peculiar smell", indirectly derived the "incense ratio strong value" of this semi-finished product, other flavors to use how much can be easily calculated.

One of the most obvious examples is the scenting of kerosene (currently the most used solvent for aerosol insecticides), and the "incense ratio strength value" of unsodorized kerosene is as high as 100 or more, and it is almost impossible to cover up its odor with a small amount of flavor. The kerosene is "deodorized" to a certain extent by physical or chemical methods, and when an incense ratio of 400 flavor is added to 0.5%, the "odor" of kerosene can be almost not smelled, and it can be calculated that the "incense ratio strength value" of this "deodorized kerosene" is equal to or less than 2.

Some incense manufacturers like to use the bought flavor "secondary perfume" to mix and reuse, and it is actually difficult to tune out high-level "works" without mastering certain know-how. Here's a very useful experimental tip: using the golden section! This is done by making the ratio of the "calculated incense ratio strength" of the two flavors equal to 0.618:0.382=1.618 or 0.382:0.618=0.618. Here's an example:

There is a rose fragrance (A) incense ratio strength value of 150, a sandalwood flavor (B) fragrance specific strength value of 120, such as according to the ratio of A: B = 56.4: 43.6 (56.4× 150: 43.6 ×120 = 8460: 5232 = 1.617) or A: B = 33.1: 66.9 (33.1× 150: 66.9 ×120 = 4965: 8028 = 0.618) will get good results, the former can be called "rose sandalwood fragrance" The latter can be called "sandalwood rose flavor".

The xiangbi strength value is indicated by the English letter "B".

Incense value

A spice or an essence that stays fragrant for a long time is a particular concern for perfumers and perfume manufacturers. For perfumers, the mixing of each fragrance must use "head incense", "body fragrance", "base fragrance" three types of spices, that is to say, the fragrance for a long time and the fragrance of the fragrance for a long time must be used, and the dosage should be scientific, so that the flavor aroma can be evenly distributed, balanced and harmonious. For incense manufacturers, they hope that the fragrance they buy can withstand the long-term "test" of warehouse storage, transportation, counter for sale, etc. after adding their own products, and still have a pleasant aroma when they reach the user's hands, and some (such as shampoo, body soap, soap, washing powder) even require a certain aroma to remain on the body or object after use.

In 1954, Poucher published a "volatilization schedule" of 330 spices, setting the coefficient of spices that could not be smelled in less than a day to 1, 100 days and 100 days later, and the "coefficient" of other spices was the number of days it remained. We improved this experiment, removed the spices that are not commonly used at present, corrected some data, added the spices that are now commonly used, a total of more than 4,000 kinds, and called The "smell coefficient" (that is, the number of days of incense retention) of Park Que as the "fragrance value", and one of the columns of the "trivalent table of commonly used spices" is the fragrance value data of various spices. Based on this data, the fragrance retention value of the fragrance can be calculated in the same way as the algorithm of "incense ratio strength value". Here is an example of jasmine flavor:

"Technology" perfume technology

The fragrance retention value of this fragrance is (5×40+10×19+100×10+100×10+80×5+22×1+14×10+100×5) ÷100=34.52.

This value should be more accurately called "calculating the fragrance value", because there is a gap between it and the actual number of incense days, which is due to the chemical reaction of the various spices after mixing to produce a substance that remains fragrant for a longer time. In fact, the actual number of fragrance days of perfume essence is almost always more than 100, and the "calculated fragrance value" is impossible to reach 100.

The scent value of spices and the calculation of fragrance values of flavors are also widely used. Perfumers can use the fragrance value of various spices to predict the calculated fragrance value of the flavor when blending, and if necessary, add or subtract some spices with a large fragrance value to make the perfume retention time of the perfumed essence within a desired range. When purchasing fragrance, it is necessary to first ask the fragrance factory whether the calculated fragrance value of the fragrance meets the requirements of their own incense. When "secondary perfume", it is also very important to calculate the fragrance value - if you hope that the fragrance is better, the fragrance with a large incense value is calculated to use more.

It should be noted that fragrances that calculate too much fragrance retention value tend to have sluggish aroma and impermeable hair, especially some low-grade fragrances.

The incense value is indicated by the English letter "L".

Incense value

Spices are not "tasteful", such as indole, directly smell like chicken dung, diluted to a concentration of less than 1% but has a jasmine-like aroma! In fact, most spices are not good when they smell directly, and they do not necessarily become better after dilution. The aroma of various spices is used to play its role when mixed into essences, and improper use not only does not play a role, but sometimes destroys the overall aroma! Therefore, if you want to give each spice a "grade value", you can only put it in an aroma range to examine its "performance", for example, benzyl acetate is generally used to mix jasmine flavor, we see that it itself is not like jasmine fragrance, very similar to the "score" to give higher, not much like the "score" to give lower. The concept of "incense value" was created along this line of thought.

The fragrance values of various spices are also listed in the "Trivalue Table of Commonly Used Spices". It should be pointed out that the "fragrance value" in the table refers to the "taste value" of the spice when using its "main aroma" (that is, the "aroma of the largest value of various spices in the "smell ABC table") when mixing the fragrance, if the flavor is used when mixing the fragrance, it is necessary to give it another "fragrance value" according to the fragrance of the fragrance. For example, when benzyl acetate is used to prepare jasmine flavor, the fragrance value is 80, while when used to prepare fruit flavor (benzyl acetate has a fruity aroma), the "fragrance value" can only be counted as 10-30.

The "fragrance value" of the fragrance can be calculated according to the fragrance value and dosage ratio of each spice in the formula, and the calculation method is the same as the strong value of the incense ratio and the value of the incense retention, and the calculated fragrance value is called "calculating the incense value", which is definitely different from the "actual fragrance value" (the fragrance is evaluated and scored by everyone, taking the average). Mixing a fragrance, if its actual fragrance value is less than the calculated fragrance value, it can be considered that the perfume is a failure; the more the actual incense value exceeds the calculated incense value, the more successful the perfume.

The so-called "perfume" is to "greatly improve the fragrance value of spices".

When using incense manufacturers to buy fragrance from the fragrance manufacturer, you can ask the latter to provide the calculated fragrance value of the fragrance, and then organize a temporary "incense evaluation team" to score the fragrance, which is the so-called "actual fragrance value" (the highest score of 100, the lowest score of 0), if the actual fragrance value exceeds the calculated value of the incense, the fragrance should be more in line with their own requirements.

The value of the incense is indicated by the English letter "P".

Comprehensive evaluation of the practical value of fragrances and flavors

The three values of the fragrance and fragrance mentioned earlier, each "value" only reflects one aspect of a spice or flavor, and the three values are placed together to reflect the overall outline of the spice or flavor. For example, the strong value of the fragrance ratio of a rose fragrance is 150, the calculation of the fragrance value is 60, the calculation of the fragrance value is 50, we think that the fragrance is "not bad", the aroma intensity is not small, the fragrance is better, the aroma can be, but it is not easy to remember three data at the same time. Multiply the three pieces of data

B×L×P=150×60×50=450000

This number is too big, divide it by 1000

B×L×P/1000=150×60×50/100=450

We define

B×L×P/1000=Z

Z is the "comprehensive evaluation score" of spices and fragrances, referred to as "comprehensive scores", such as the comprehensive score of the above rose fragrance is 450, which is calculated by its incense ratio strength value, calculating the incense value, calculating the incense value, if its actual fragrance value is not 50, but 60, then its comprehensive score should be

150×60×60/1000=540

The sales price of this fragrance (according to the current market price) of 540 yuan / kg is more moderate, if it is higher than 540 yuan / kg, it is too expensive, and less than 540 yuan / kg is cheap.

"Commonly used spices trivalue table" has listed a variety of common spices through the three values of the calculation of the "comprehensive score", perfumers can be based on the data in this table of various spices to evaluate, compare, select, the new spices can determine the three values themselves, calculate their comprehensive score to fill in.

2 Odor ABC

"Technology" perfume technology

Lookup Table:

Aroma of diacetal: 60% fruity, 10% green, 30% narcotic;

Aroma of dipteroster acetate: 10% cold aroma, 40% herb aroma, 50% echinacea;

Aroma of allosaurus acetate: 2% cold aroma, 30% herb aroma, 65% conifer, 3% soil fragrance.

The "odor ABC" of the flavor can be calculated.

For example, there is an essence , the "Oriental Incense" flavor that is calculated

A2H1M5Q20R10S2U2V2W52X4

Indicates that its aroma is composed of 2% fat, 1% herb, 5% bell orchid, 20% cream, 10% rose, 2% spice, 2% pod orchid, 52% wood and 4% musk.

3 Chaos math, fractals, and perfumes

chaos

Chaos is a general term for the random behavior exhibited by deterministic systems, and its roots lie in nonlinear interactions. The so-called "deterministic system" refers to the mathematical model that describes the system as a fully deterministic equation that does not contain any random factors.

The most common forms of motion in nature are often neither completely deterministic nor completely random, which is chaos.

Fractal structure

(1) Structure with infinite fineness;

(2) Proportional self-similarity;

(3) Generally its fractional dimension great sub-subparagraph its topological dimension;

(4) Can be defined by very simple methods and generated by recursion, iteration, etc.

Snowflakes, clouds, and smoke seen on a daily basis all have fractal structures. It's easy to think of "a lump of aroma" that should also have a fractal structure.

Strange attractors

"Strange attractors" are stable, fractal attractors.

Artists explain their work with the theory of "strange attractors" and the theory of "fractal structures": musicians see a beautiful melody as a "strange attractor" that can compose an infinite number of pieces of music; painters see a beautiful object shape (e.g., human body, flower) as a "strange attractor"—it can also create an infinite number of works of art.

What musicians diligently seek is to "find" a melody that has not been "discovered" by their predecessors; the perfumer goes to great lengths to "find" "a ball of the most pleasant aroma", that is, the "strange attractor" that has not been "discovered" by predecessors.

Dimensionality

Also known as fractal dimensions or fractional dimensions, they are usually expressed as fractions or numbers with decimal points. For a long time, people have been accustomed to defining points as zero-dimensional, straight lines as one-dimensional, planes as two-dimensional, and space as three-dimensional.

Einstein introduced the temporal dimension in the theory of relativity, forming a four-dimensional space-time. Giving multiple considerations to a problem can establish high-dimensional spaces, but they are all integer dimensions.

Mathematically, the geometry of Euclidean space is continuously stretched, compressed, and distorted, and the dimensionality is unchanged, which is the topological dimension.

The mathematician Hausdoff proposed the concept of continuous space in 1919, that is, the dimensions of space can change continuously, which can be integers or fractions, called Hausdorff dimensions, and are recorded as Df.

Obviously, Df is a score in general.

Fractional formula for aroma:

D=(ln K) / (lnL)

Where: D - The dimension of the fractal

K - The sum of the contribution values of all spices to the theme aroma

L - the number of spices

In normal cases, the closer the dimension is to 1, the more prominent the thematic aroma of this fragrance.

The actual formulation of a jasmine flavor recipe is as follows:

Benzyl acetate 50

Alpha-hexyl cinnamaldehyde 40

Jasmine net oil 10

Looking at the "Spice Odor ABC Table", benzyl acetate has a jasmine aroma of 70%, a hexyl cinnamaldehyde has an 80% jasmine aroma, and a jasmine net oil has a 60% jasmine aroma, and their average aroma contribution rate to the formulated jasmine flavor is the same

0.50×0.70+0.40×0.80+0.10×0.60=0.73

K=3×0.73=2.19

Thus, this jasmine flavor themed aroma is the fractional dimension

D02=(ln2.19)/(ln3)≈0.7135

Source: Food Forum netizens reprinted and shared Author: Lin Xiangyun

"Technology" perfume technology