"Gangnam mark on the taste buds" the origin of hecai

The origin of grass vegetables

Jiaxing was historically known as "Wugen Yuejiao". What is "Wu Gen Yue Jiao"? The border of Wu Yue's homeland is also. In ancient times, Jiangsu belonged to the State of Wu and Zhejiang belonged to the State of Yue. Therefore, in a broad sense, Wugen Yuejiao refers to the Jiangsu and Zhejiang areas. Because the area around Jiaxing and Wujiang is the junction of Wuyueguo, in a narrow sense, Wugen Yuejiao refers to jiaxing and Wujiang.

At present, on the jiuli port of The flagpole village of Honghe Township, Xiuzhou District, Jiaxing City, there is a three-hole stone pillar flat stone bridge. According to legend, this place was originally the dividing line between Wu and Yue, so Jiuli Port is also known as the Border River, Hebei belongs to the State of Wu, Henan belongs to the State of Yue, and there are ancient stone bridges on the river, so the ancient stone bridge is called the Border Bridge. Judging from this demarcation, Jiaxing City was once under the jurisdiction of the State of Wu during the Warring States period. In fact, in history, Jiaxing and Suzhou have always had deep roots.

Jiaxing used to have Xushan and Wu Xiang Ancestral Hall named after Wu Zixu, the grand master of the Wu Kingdom. This shows that during the Warring States period, Jiaxing was once the territory of the State of Wu.

In Jiaxing, many relics and stories related to the State of Vietnam remain. The most representative ones are Fanli Lake and The Dumping River. However, this was after the Yue Kingdom destroyed Wu.

This is, of course, strong evidence that Jiaxing is Wu Gen Yuejiao.

Written in the first "history" of the "Zhiyuan Jiahezhi" volume of the early Yuan Dynasty (1288), it is said: "On the "Chronicle of the Nine Domains", Xiuzhou. 'The realm of ancient Yangzhou is also the state of Wu in the Zhou Dynasty. "Before the Song Dynasty, Jiaxing belonged to Suzhou for most of the time, except for a short period of time belonging to Hangzhou in the Jin Dynasty. In fact, the folk customs of Jiaxing tend to be the same as those of Suzhou, that is, the discourse also belongs to the "Wu language family".

The same is true of meals, as long as you have eaten the dishes of Su, Tin, Chang and Shanghai, you will have a feeling similar to and identical to hecai. Take the dish of braised hoof fat, Suzhou Wujiang County Zhouzhuang's "Wanshan Hoof" has always been a local specialty dish, enduring, but also become a tourist specialty for tourists. Jiaxing Jiashan County Xitang's "Sending Hooves" is also a local specialty dish, which has endured for a long time and has also become a tourist specialty for tourists. In fact, this "Wanshan Hoof" and "Send Child Hoof" are all thick oil and red sauce, and the braised hooves that are burned crispy are fat.

Along with Su cuisine, there is also the "boat dish" in the grass dish. What is Boat Dish? Tao Fengzi, an old newspaperman in the Republic of China period, once said in the "Suzhou Express": "The dishes placed on the ship are called ship dishes, with different flavors and famous to others." ”

Jiaxing, Suzhou is also a jiangnan water town, many river ports, in ancient times people often travel to the boat, to the meal point, it is inevitable that guests are hungry, then the boat in order to cater to the guests will set up a stove on the ship, buy ingredients, stir-fry cooking. Later, those large cruise ship dishes were actually abundant and became a special dish in the Sujia area.

Ye Shengtao commented on boat dishes in his "Three Kinds of Boats": "The dishes made by boat families are incomparable to those of restaurants, and they are especially called 'boat dishes'. In addition to the dish, there are all kinds of snacks, and you can't finish eating them. Informally doing a few things is still fine, the boatman is well trained, and the shot is always not off the ship dish style. Debunked to say, the boat dish so good is to prepare only one table, small wok small pot, do the same is the same, the soup is not mixed, the material is not sloppy, naturally everything has its true taste, so that people eat it and feel salivating. "It seems that the boat dish is the best of the dishes.

Jiaxing noodle restaurants still insist on using small pots to cook noodles bowl by bowl, called "falling pot noodles", is this adhering to the legacy of boat dishes?

Since the Ming and Qing dynasties to the pre-War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Jiaxing South Lake has many cruise ships, according to the older generation, the concoctors of boat dishes are all boat ladies. The Suzhou Tourist Guide, published in 1947, also said: "Suzhou boat dishes ... All the ladies are women, and those who are shipwrecks and cooks..."The same destination is the same.

In Jiaxing, boat dishes mostly appear on cruise ships in the South Lake, so the boat dishes in Jiaxing are named after the place name of the South Lake, called "South Lake Boat Dishes".

I have seen a menu that introduces the dishes of the South Lake boat, and there are more than 100 models, such as: spiced pigeon, emerald crab bucket, honey sauce fire party, hehe two, crab yellow shark fin, eight treasure duck, fish maw, cold mix turtle skirt, ham building, tamale meat, shrimp, shrimp balls, crab powder, hoof tendons and so on. Boat dishes are generally also equipped with snacks and snacks, often prepared with Nanhu Ling and Nanhu Fengling, melon seeds, preserves, rice dumplings, roasted selling, buns and so on. In the early years of the Republic of China, Xu Ke, a veteran newspaperman in Shanghai, wrote in his book "Tiansu Ge Collection" "Jiaxing South Lake Boat Banquet Menu in the Eighth Year of the Republic of China": "The twenty-fourth of June of the lunar calendar and the seventh two periods of the first month of July, the price is expensive, the boat is large, 16 yuan or 14 yuan per table of Silver Ocean, and the second is 12 yuan or 10 yuan per table of Silver Ocean." There is also a 'grab shrimp' product in the boat dish, which is quite distinctive, with live shrimp cut off the whiskers and feet, dipped in red milk rot and hemp oil white sugar, which is extremely delicious. In the cold pot, crab leg meat is planted around the pot, and the crab yellow in the middle is unique in flavor. "Jiaxing boat dishes in general, a table of boat dishes should be divided into three periods of morning, middle and evening to eat, when the guests just arrived, first present dim sum, lunch is a small part of the full meal, and dinner is presented with full meals.

Coincidentally, Xu Ke also had an account of Suzhou boat dishes in one of his books called "Wen yan": "Sprinkle the feast twice in the afternoon and twice in the night." The items of the lunch feast include pears, citrus, oranges, water chestnuts, almonds, sugar lotus seeds, sugar fallen peanuts, eight plates of golden beans, a large plate of melon seeds, aged in the center; four cold meats for Pai Nan (the thick slices of ham), white chicken, sauce duck, sheep paste; four hot dishes for stir-fried diced meat, fried liver, fried crab powder, cockle soup; large bowls for clear soup shark fin, spiced pigeon, braised shrimp rounds, duck tongue soup, fried waist flowers, Jiang Yaozhu, soup fire party (whole piece of ham clear stew soup fire party), steamed crucian carp, eight treasure duck, eight treasure rice. The nine plates of night feast items are Pai Nan, Shelled Shrimp, Duck Tongue, Gizzard Liver, Peeled Eggs, Jellyfish Skin, Olives, Pomegranates, melon Seeds; Large bowls are braised shark fin, shrimp, soup bubble belly, spiced wild duck, honey-roasted ham, fried fish fillets, and there are still suitable people, compared to Wuxi, it has its own shame. Sweet and salty dim sum is far better than it, the sweet taste, the mustard fruit, the lotus seed outside, the big head, the small braid, the double Fu Shou peach, the autumn leaves, the melon, the steamed bun, the shape of the name, and the night incense; the salty one, the fried noodles, the roasted outside, the mouth tangyuan (with ham, Jiang Yao pillar, shrimp rice, vegetable crumbs as the filling), the wooden fish dumplings, to the shape of the likeness, and the ham pulling cricket cake, the noodles into strips, the miscellaneous ham crumbs in the middle, the best. ”

Compared with the two, the dishes and dim sum are more overlapping

All in all, he and Su cuisine should be a cuisine.

Now in the prosperous world, the take-off of Hecai is also just in time, "Food Beauty Jiaxing" has played a good role in the excavation and promotion of Hecai, which is conducive to the development of Hecai, is conducive to the formation and growth of Hebang chefs, we look forward to Hecai in the efforts of Hebang chefs to the whole country, to the world.

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