When it comes to the so-called seongnam area south of Shinagawa, for saitama, I always feel that there is some distance. Saying that it is "distance" is not an actual distance, and it also contains an emotional component.
Well, as of Shinagawa, that is, within the Edo realm line Ink Introduction (Machi Bongyu Dominion), even the history guide books of Tokyo (Edo) are mostly skimmed by.
In this way, there is no reason to start, although I have visited in a hurry before, but in the end it is a "point", and it has never been regarded as a "face", or the real will to never be regarded as a face.
This mood gradually changed because I heard a quote from CUE, "That area is a place where the people of Tokyo are lost."
Recently, I returned to Saitama, my birthplace, from my tokyo residence, and it was also due to my careful confirmation that if I had lived in Tokyo all the time and stayed in this part of Tokyo, my spirit would not change at all. Sometimes I think I'm from Saitama.
To tell the truth, I am a little disappointed that I did not get any of the psychological enjutsu that comes to Tokyo as a local-born person, or the carefree nature of Tokyo-born people who are born with urban culture and indifference to outsiders.
Presumably, it is the result of blindly strengthening the inner psychology in youth, just like applying a layer of Teflon or diamond coating, there are almost no effects such as the environment, so it can be said that no matter where they live, they will not change. I have also written a lot of various colors, but it can be said that it is basically used as "material". After all, it is not a "player", just a look from the outside.
It is also said that I do not understand whether I have to continue to live in Tokyo, or whether I want to live in a place opposite Tokyo (most of the local immigrants) (of course, when it comes to the economy, I understand it twelve points).
They were particularly concerned about this and "lost", this time starting from Shinagawa and strolling south along the old Tokaido, with the aim of saying bluntly once they found the "lost" place.
As always, let's go and see each other.
So, the time came for the late summer of last year (sorry, it's been a long time). I thought it was time to cool down, but I didn't expect it to be a hot day. On the same day, he took a vacation and went in the opposite direction with commuters to The increasingly noisy Shinagawa Station.
Today's Shinagawa Station has no memory of the image, just like turning yourself into a robot and going to the station, there is a subtle and gentle atmosphere when you come to the station, and you always feel that you will become a screw.
Well, all JR stations, especially those that are used as departure stations, have been remodeled in this direction wherever they are, and it is customary that there are always some messy parts of this station that make it impossible to calm down. In fact, the bonito-flavored standing soba noodles are in danger of extinction.
Stepping out of the station, the left hand is still the same square as before (I want to walk into a nearby izakaya).
Looking up at your right hand, there is a near-future scenery like Tsukishi Matsumoto (Note: Japanese manga artist).
Shinagawa Intercity・Grandcommons, centered on the shunting yard site. A complex of office, shopping, apartment rental and sales, like the Proposal Vedio of Maroon5 'Makes Me Wonder', constitutes a long row of shallow and wonderful landscapes.
There is always a feeling of not getting used to it. And there is no Atmosphere of Maroon5's casual jokes, just the casual and serious look. Filled with smoking while walking and smoking, righteous middle-aged wage men are generally not normal.
As I was thinking and walking, the terrace on the inner (east side) appeared in front of me. The first modest, relatively stable complex to be seen was the Meat Market at the Chuo Chuo Wholesale Market in Tokyo. You can see people in the parking lot, wearing white masks and gloves working inside. Inside the tranquil landscape is the disintegration of cattle and pigs, and the shadows are obvious and interesting. However, this strong contrast, while interesting, also has hidden parts that have been confiscated and picked up. This meat market can be said to be tortuous, to put it bluntly, it was relocated before the war when there was nothing here (the official comment on this matter has been described in great detail), and the new "residents" were not without any calls for relocation.
But somehow, something as easy to understand as Grimm's fairy tale happened, just along the coast of the so-called bayshore, the so-called lowlands of Shimomachi, like Mario's bean trees, and the number of high-rise apartments has increased one by one, and the problem should be solved. The topic is interrupted, this has too much to do with this topic, to be honest, I can't take this as an invisible thing for future street walks. The article may be longer, please be patient and read it.
Therefore, how to go deeper into the topic, I think this must first be from our imagination of "land", what kind of value to find, follow this source stream, do some work.
Looking back at the past, this area looks up as "Toyohara 1500 Autumn Rice Country", which was known in ancient times. This means that there are reeds everywhere, and every year it can grow a land of millet, which is to put it bluntly, it is a low wetland. This land, which is easy to produce rice and is irrigated by abundant water sources, is the most valuable land for the modernization of ancient times.
The Japanese word for "Yamato" was originally "yamato" or "mountain place", that is, a place where there are low wetlands between the mountains where rice can be produced, which is what Nobuo Origami wrote in his writings.
When you come to the ancient capital of Asuka (Nara), you will wonder how the capital is in such a remote place, but the reason is that it is a low wetland between the mountains, and it does not take too much effort to produce rice fields. It was in this place that the so-called power of the Yamato imperial court was born.
This value of making land sacred until recently was something we all share, so when Soichiro Honda, who can be said to be a supporter of the highly long-term technological leader after the war, saw the plan submitted by his subordinates to occupy a large amount of farmland, the Kamikaga Arena, he was furious: "Are you going to destroy the (sacred) rice fields!!!!!?" This anecdote is so famous that many people know it (the result was that the plan had to be changed).
The reason for this is, I am afraid, that the "rice" problem is not simply a crop problem, and this value still exists more or less in my generation. This is also the original scenery of Japan.
This value has converged at will, which is also easy to understand, and our Westernization has played a big role. To ask when it began, of course, was the Meiji Restoration, and then the defeat [of the Pacific War].
In Japan, because of the value of low wetlands, the inconvenient use of water on the high terrace land is considered worthless, but in Western Europe is the opposite, such places due to the full sun, wheat grows well, easy for livestock fattening grass also grows well, constitute another image of the original ecological landscape.
After a reversal in this direction, it is often given the name of the "mountain village" and "XX hill" to the building (residential land) that is of high value, and the reversal of this image also plays a great role. This also contains a yearning that is intertwined with a sense of inferiority.
This also plays a big role in the "class". Since the Edo period, there has been a distinction between Yamanote and Shimomachi, but this is not so much a division of residence between the "samurai" and "machi" classes, but rather the lowlands along the river canal and canal (Kanda, etc.) that are convenient for commercial activities. In any case, the class has long been solidified.
This clear and unambiguous class system is characterized by a very clear sharing of responsibilities, with the samurai restraining their lives with a (ostensibly) metaphysical culture, while the machi people instead extract the so-called "art" culture from their lives and restraining each other, the machi people admiring the loyal subjects with kabuki, and the samurai enjoying various performance activities as hobbies, just like the mutual derogatory relationship of hip-hop art and the relationship of respect for the backbone of the opponent.
Leaving aside the Chinese system that arose in the form of a replacement samurai due to the mess of the Meiji Restoration, the newly established residents of the mountain who "came into the world" by virtue of commerce or learning certainly did not have a backbone-like "basis" of culture (such as kaneda in "I am a cat"), and what constituted its substitute was the Western European land values - the distinction between the height and low (impression) of the land based on it. Then, not being able to come up with a decent basis for "external" is essential.
As a result, the low lands of Tokyo since Meiji have been attached to the impression of barbarism and uncleanness. This was also inherited by ideas such as Adachiku's contempt.
As a result, as land, it was at best possible to grow dryland crops, but if the "Takekino Terrace" was developed, which was almost worthless before, including the area north of Kawasaki and Yokohama (which belonged to the Takeru Kingdom during the Edo period), it was almost completely hilly and completely empty of rice paddies.
This trend accelerated and intensified after the war. The U.S. garrisons who stepped on the "Hand of the Mountain" planted grass in the forecourt and owned american-style suburban housing, which is easy to understand and has become the blueprint for the development of complete houses along the pastoral urban line.
Then, the Chinese system was also destroyed by them, giving rise to the strange saying that "as long as the consciousness is high enough" can conquer anyone in the superstructure. The American-style world of High & Low (Akira Kurosawa's Omega version of the name of "Heaven and Hell") has arrived.
However, in Japan, there is no introduction of the so-called American Dream, nor a culture of charity and sponsorship, but only a wilderness of cultivation with an "upward heart". The so-called Michi fever after the war was an easy-to-understand standardization. With a little Western European (supreme) sense of inferiority, the unexplained "upward" code of action, is like an instinctive brainwashing.
This approach to thinking, which is based on the "pursuit of height (upwards)," naturally also had a huge impact on postwar culture. Streets that symbolize young people's culture, from Ginza to Shinjuku, to Shibuya and Harajuku, it is easy to understand the trend towards the "Hand of the Mountain" (especially along the line in front of you) at a glance, the development of the Seibu Saison Group, which symbolizes the shift from a high growth period to a highly consumptive society, failed in Ikebukuro and blossomed in Shibuya, also because the latter is a clear street with "high and low", and Harajuku is easy to understand that the US military stationed in Tun (now NHK to Yomigi Park), It is also a street with the Meiji Shrine that makes people aware of the image of the imperial family.
Once this kind of "yamanote" thinking (which is also a hobby) is universalized, the Shimomachi culture is naturally subverted and weakened, and the original culture of Tokyo gradually collapses and tends to disappear.
This kind of upward-looking (in fact, "fake") upwards, which is similar to the sexual impulse of middle school students, regards the west side of Tokyo as the front end because there is a "height", while the east side of Tokyo is a lowland without "height", so it cannot enter the bayshore.
The solution to this problem is a high-rise apartment. With artificial height, the nasty upward center can go to the low ground. Kaoru Kuroki, an armpit-haired AV actress who appeared in the bubble era, even said, "I think the U.S. military base is the American JJ inserted into Japan", and Yume pillow tortoise wrote: What a genius! The high-rise apartment is the JJ where "Yamanotō" is inserted into "Shimomachi"!
Eventually, the "Hand of the Mountain" was separated from the traditional Japanese-style things and became JJ-style high-rise apartments, the problem was that after the Meiji Restoration, the backbone of post-war culture was gradually lost and became accustomed to. Before spilling the "nero" soup, the sauce was added and it turned out to be something like soba noodles with sauce that young lovers can divide and eat).
Even if you have nothing, you must make your appearance beautiful. It is the so-called "otaku" or "Yankee" that appears in this way. The term "Mild yankee" was coined symbolically by the people at the advertising agency, and yankee didn't care what you called them, but the advertising agency that supported the "Hand of the Mountain" style needed to be called that. Similarly, when entering the high-consumption society in the 1980s, the "new Tokyoites" invented the kanji of ダサイ+サイイタマ, 揶揄 rustic Saitama people), チバラキ (Note: チバ+イバラキ, the combined name of the two prefectures of Chiba Ibaraki, has the meaning of 揶揄).
Sociologists casually refer to "otaku" as Yidi lang from the same background. They seem to be speaking from their own standpoint, but in fact they are soaked in the mountain hand mentality (in fact, most of them are born or settlers in the place) and need to have "outside". In Japan, under the banner of innovation, people who pretend to be outlaws actually seem to be the status quo maintenance faction (Sugi-ku style) who live a prosperous life. After the earthquake, it became clearer that they did not claim anything, they were just ordinary consumers.
In this sense, the subculture on which they live is not a counterculture, in fact, it is nothing (not even a high culture, which is too tragic), and the "otaku" and "yankee" born and cultivated from elsewhere are the real counterculture.
In other words, why should we push high-rise apartments into the superstructure for people who think of high-rise apartments as "high consciousness", who only use the impulse of the hand of the mountain JJ as a guideline for action. The kind of person who stands up and does nothing, only for the purpose of standing up, as the realization of his own ability. They are by no means fools, they are generally theoretically armed and disguised, and they have a certain influence on society.
What the class of those who can neither "dominate" nor "teach" is what the class on the top is, in front of the "otaku" and "Yankee". So the people who are more like "people" are stronger. The backbone is also a little bit, the problem is the "poverty" of culture. To laugh at "Otaku" and "Yankee" is to laugh at yourself. Maybe the future is as grim as Soylen Green's.
If you know what to do, you can also do a reverse "discovery" to them. I thought of all kinds of names, and I only thought of the "Gulf Shore JJ Clan" and the like, and I was so tasteless. StarBow's "Heart Break Sun Clan".
Well, personally, Bad Taste as a Dystopia makes sense, and I wonder if there is a need to continue to promote sound class hatred based on this perspective. Frankly, I just want to use this as a kind of material, lack of interest, or do not want to delve into it.
If you look at high-rise apartments from this point of view, you won't be unable to see the culture tank that appears in the movie "The Matrix". Expelling the meat market is also an inevitable trend.
In this sense, how to "sterilize" this area in the future is the focus of our observation. In the distant future, it is said that all the buildings in this area will be "updated".
In this way, recently, the media has often seen memories of the east of Tokyo (Kinshicho and other places) that say that the area will gradually become the forefront of the new consumption place as JJ's impulsive style of Yamanobe, which is probably related to the Olympic Games, and it is necessary to observe this area more.
From this JJ town (song: EPO) to the old Shinagawa-juku of the so-called Tokaido Daiichi- to see the Toei Kita-Shinagawa Apartments in contrast to the neighboring high-rise apartment clusters.
Speaking of this style of japanese collective residential architecture, it was not imported directly from Europe, but originated from the Soviet Union through Manchuria (which professionals seem to misunderstand), a ubiquitous gray and dark tone.
The base on the first floor to do the bus is also appropriate, and it is difficult to say that it feels good to say that it is JJTown's rotten leaf soil. Sorry, on the one hand, it was hunted by the Mechanized Earl (the character of "Galactic Bow 999"), and the building would not have felt so good if it were not the most advanced. Located in the heart of the capital, near the eye-catching collection of houses and regimental land, it is also quite rare in an era that is reminiscent of high growth and a Soviet-style planned economy.
However, if you look at this area seriously, the current class of residents is not very clear. If it is in an area like Jiangdong District, it should be the so-called boundary settlement, but this is not the case in this area, after all, it is mostly "lost" people. Everywhere here are being remodeled, a vanishing landscape.
Climb the ramp on the edge of the apartment building and walk towards the Yayamabashi intersection, passing through the Keikyu Line, in front of the northern end of the former Shinagawa-juku.
Now, in order to attract passers-by on the street, we have added an explanatory board for the ruins, and the renovation is quite beautiful. From time to time, I can meet middle-aged and elderly couples and teams who may come to visit Tokaido like me.
Yuzo Kawashima's "The Legend of the Sun at the End of the Curtain" begins with a string of shots that are here, and movie lovers should all know about it. Of course, the buildings have been updated, but the general layout has not changed, and it is good for lovers of monuments to take a look at it before visiting.
Maybe at the end of the shot that started, the camera suddenly approached the direction of the street, and I walked into the street in the same way, back to the Keikyu Line I had just passed.
In addition, the theme of this time is different from the usual exhaustive street history, and it was said at the beginning that it is basically a sweep, and the current street has started from Shinagawa Su, and there are almost no buildings such as pre-war tour silhouettes. Many people think that this area has always had the remnants of Hana Street, but it was actually transferred to the current Coast Pass area (which was newly reclaimed at that time) as early as showa 7 (1932). Probably for the sake of landscape considerations, let's compete with The Flower Street in Shibaura. There is also a place where Takasugi Shinsaku once visited, and it is said that the Tozo Sagami, which was formed before the Fire Attack on the British Legation, now has only one convenience store. The brothel zone during the U.S. occupation is almost gone.
Cross the road to see vacant properties.
Because it is a historical building, it has been renovated, but in the end it is a bit lonely and lacks a sense of life. Although the store is still open, there are few customers. While there is also a metabolism, the traditional old-fashioned shopping streets seem to be in a zombie state, and the chain stores are barely there. There are many parking lots and buildings in the process of being remodeled.
But, perhaps for the intermittent increase in the number of apartment dwellers in the area, there are also some old shops scattered around.
There are also quite few wooden shop buildings. But will it survive? There is no welcome atmosphere to invite uncles and aunts to come here to nostalgic scattering. Although this sense of fermentation is not annoying, in short, it is a changing street. In the future, it will quietly become a shopping street for apartment residents (probably a food street). It's better than closing all the streets.
Moreover, this state of affairs did not begin today, and the "Tokyo Terroir Map" published around the 1940s of shows that "the current cityscape and many abandoned streets and alleys with rural style." Admittedly, it must be said that the situation has improved recently. Moreover, if the "country style" can be saved, it will become a considerable sightseeing resource.
Therefore, as a style or alley is better.
Some of the temples in the depths of the alleys still exist as shown in the Edo guide map.
However, these places are occupied by some uncles and aunts, and you can't afford to watch slowly.
Walking along the alley, you will also find a brick and tile wall that feels very nice.
Crooked heading to the rare Shinagawa Shrine, let's go inside and visit the shrine. The largest shrine in this area, The Suuzaki Shrine, which has visited the organizers before, is also a good relationship. Hold down the table for the time being.
Shinagawa Shrine is located at one end of the mesa (the so-called Takanawa Terrace, which has many old rich people due to the "height" relationship), and it has been previously written that the Gensaki Dynasty, as the patron saint of Theagawa Shinagawa, an important port at that time, also invited the god of the Suzaki Shrine (Tenbiri Nobita) in order to open up transportation for himself.
During the Muromachi period, Shinagawa's warrior leader taught the samurai Ota Michigan to attach great importance to the samurai tradition, which was then passed down by Ieyasu and became one of the ten shrines in Tokyo after entering the Meiji, and became the most important shrine in the land.
By the way, Ota Michikan's mansion used to be in the area of Mitsubishi Kaitokaku (Takanawa Iwasaki Residence). At the end of the Edo period, this area became a foreign legation (that is, a building that Takasugi Shinsaku tried to burn), and it is very interesting that the high-rise people lived here after the Meiji Restoration. Now, it seems that the land of Shinagawa Shrine has been cut off from the land of Shinagawa Shrine, due to the gradual shoveling of landfills (Odaiba construction, etc.) and the construction of the Kodo from the Edo period to the Meiji period. The nearby hill called Mt. Hachiyatsu has disappeared, leaving only the name of a bridge and an intersection.
Looking at the map of the city streets of the Edo period, Shinagawa Shrine is facing a group of fishery practitioners called Hunter Town (漁師町), with Yanshen guarding the Meguro River. The previous place was called Tsukisaki (Suzaki), which is very interesting (the name of Suzaki Park is still there). I'm afraid it's not only because it's a sand chakra, but also because of the Chauzaki Shrine.
It is said that this place has been the capital of the Wushu Kingdom since the pre-Yu Dynasty, and the reason why it is so important may be because of the freshwater area guarded by this sandbar. If the wooden boat remains in the sea, it will be eroded by ship moths and must be submerged in fresh water for maintenance (the development of the sandbar began in the Edo period). Therefore, there are also high platforms nearby that serve as defensive strongholds.
Moreover, the location of this sandbar can also be seen from today's map, that is, the place represented by the light red, and the road on the east side of the street is almost the river of the past. The kagata shrine (the orange circle on the map) is the Bencaitian on the map of the ancient neighborhood. The shrine also houses whale monuments dedicated to whales caught by fishermen during the Gwan administration period.
The ukiyo-e below is written at the tip of Sarawak with the word Hiroshige. This is the feeling of looking out from the middle section of Shinagawa Women's College. The hook-shaped location of the canal is the former estuary.
There is also a Shrine of The Shrine (the green circle in the map above), which was created to commemorate the fragments of the ship of his brother Tachibana Hime during the Japanese Takezumi's Eastern Expedition, and it is said that when the Yoshitomo family sent troops to Oshu, he visited the Shrine of Theogi to pray for victory and buried his helmet here during the triumph.
It is said that at the end of the shogunate period, the seaside side (east side) of this Shashu was formed as the end of Shinagawa Odaiba to form the Gotenyama Shimodaiba (the light blue area on the previous map). The above map was made around meiji 18 (1885), when the area still exists.
Apparently, before the bay shore landfill began, Shinagawa Station was still a maritime station surrounded by the ocean. The picture above is a picture of the time, like Turner's landscape painting.
In the Taisho period, Odaiba became useless (making the entrance to the bay fortress), and the place was sold to the people, and together with the surrounding landfills, it became the flower street mentioned earlier.
Back at the shrine, ascend the stairs of The Way, and on your left hand is Fuji-tsuka. More on that later. It is located on the terrace and the territory is quite spacious.
After the predetermined visit to the shrine, go and see what you have skimmed over when you came before, go to the back of the shrine, and take a look at it by the way.
Walking through an extremely narrow path, to the south is an open field. There is the tomb of Itagaki (note: hero and politician of the Meiji Restoration) and his wife.
The embarrassment of the place is so, the space has not been seriously renovated, and the degree of sloppiness is clear at a glance. At the very least, it should be done decently as Kochi prefecture treated Sakamoto Ruma, who didn't know much about it.
I don't think it is necessary to explain what kind of person Itagaki is, because he was also quite poor because he was isolated by the Tosa gang, and before he died, he sold the Bizen longship given to him to Sugiyama Shigemaru, and his poverty is obviously evident, and after his death, he seems to have been able to hold a burial ceremony with the funds of his peers and the gifts of the palace. The tomb was also barely built.
Originally, Shinagawa Shrine was located in the spacious territory of Tokai-ji Temple, which originally resembled the burial ground of Tatou (the branch temple within the temple), but after the earthquake, due to the reduction of the tokaiji Temple and the relocation of the cemetery, only this tomb was built here according to the hopes of itagaki and was left in place.
It is said that according to Itagaki's hopes, the tomb is not facing the center of Tokyo (the Imperial Palace), but facing south. Itagaki's mood to build the tomb far from his residence (Itagaki lived in Mita) and outside of Edo domain, facing south, was very meaningful. I think this seems to show that as the protagonists of the Meiji Restoration, some people were not accepted by the superstructure in the end.
In fact, in the south of Theoyama-ji Temple, there is a rock barn with a view, and Nishi Oi has the tomb of Itō Hirobumi (both of which are basically non-public), and what they have in common is to run for state affairs (its content is not to be discussed), but they are not so accumulated and less absorbed in gold.
I would like to say that on the one hand, they may maintain a subtle sense of distance or alienation from Edo (Tokyo), and on the other hand, if they are still happy to live in high-rise apartments today, and end up buried in this land that seems to be "depraved", this is also very similar to their own experience now, so they look at it as a place related to the theme of this time.
So, let's go back to the shrine.
This is the remnant of Fujitsuka. It is said that it is the largest in Tokyo, and it is necessary to climb to the top without cooking a bowl of noodles, and to get the same benefits as climbing Mt. Fuji. The stele also clearly writes several items (Note: the distance to the top of the mountain), which is very interesting.
Looking down from above, the view is spectacular. Looking out towards the sea, you can see the building gradually getting taller, which is very interesting. The coastal area is like forming a barrier. This scenery is said to have changed over the years. In the past, you could probably see the port, but now the port is completely invisible to the sea.
Then, back to the rustle of the street, the ruins of Shinagawa Su Honjin swept by (nothing to see) ~ ~ ~
There is a barely maintained tatami shop here
There are also some old parking lots~
I was hungry when I saw a beauty salon with a nostalgic name. In fact, I originally wanted to eat at Shinagawa Station earlier, and as soon as I entered JJ Street, I completely forgot about eating.
There is no place to eat! But looking closer, the wage earners who came out of the office seemed to have bought bento boxes in some obscure stores. Well, all the shops in the shop club are dead, but there are a lot of shops that are trying to eat something, right?
In any case, I don't have an office to go back to, and I can't eat here.
So I walked around the street, saw Matsuya, and ate there. The shop is located at the intersection called "Yashio High School Entrance". Yashio High School is also the school where Yakuza Maru Hiroko (Note: a popular actress in the late Showa period) graduated. Ken Takakura lived here when he was consulting in Shinagawa. So while thinking about the exaggerated music in "Proof of The Wild", he ate the cowman.
After eating a good meal and returning to the street, I saw a strange uncle handing out leaflets, as if he were selling a self-funded publication with a strong sense of unreality, and I read the leaflets as if I had become the protagonist of an unreasonable shortsman SF. The uncle seemed to be very serious, and I was sent twice as I walked back and forth on the street.
After looking at the pillar of the street lamp, I unconsciously arrived at the Qingwu (Note: vegetables and fruits) Hengding Shopping Street.
This green creature yokozuna also has some points to see. Shinagawa's non-human (note: Untouchables) leader Matsuemon's "slip" (note: Edo period facility for taking in sick prisoners) is in this area. So I also want to go there to see, because I was attracted by the high-rise apartment to write too long, I had to put aside the pen and leave it for later, please understand.
This article is based on
http://www.gonzoshouts.com/place/8578/
"Walking on the Tokaido (Shinagawa - Omori Coast) Part 1: Street Corner Walk" 编译 5