Recently, with the popularity of the TV series "Dream Hualu", the bustling life of The vivid and fragrant Fenjing (now Kaifeng) has come alive on the screen, making netizens shout directly: "I want to cross back to the Song Dynasty!" "Tea shops and restaurants everywhere, hook bar wastage, night markets all night; Literati and inkers fight tea to appreciate paintings, chant poems and play the piano; Street people taste fruit tea, bow, buy flowers, visit the garden... As Mr. Chen Yinke said: "The culture of the Chinese nation, which has evolved over thousands of years, was created in the world of Zhao and Song Dynasties. ”
Order tea: drink is the artistic taste, spelling is the cultural aesthetics
Mainland tea culture has a long history, "tea, prosperous in the Tang and flourished in the Song", Song Huizong, the emperor who loves painting, tea, and calligraphy, is to develop tea culture to a peak with the strength of a country. In the Song Dynasty, Elder Meng recorded the grand scene of the Tokyo Tea House in the "Tokyo Dream Record": "In addition to the East and West Sects Outside the Suzaku Gate, the Remaining Residents or Tea Houses, the city in the heart of the street, especially at night. The Southern Song Dynasty Wu Zimu's "Record of Mengliang" also records that "Lin'an has tea houses everywhere." In the Song Dynasty, tea houses, tea houses, tea shops, and tea houses were all over the streets and alleys, "seven things to open the door in the morning, chai rice oil salt sauce vinegar tea", which shows the importance of tea in daily life.
Tea hundred plays
The tea house is beautiful at night, the night market during the Northern Song Dynasty was bustling, the tea house was open all night, and the tourists were bustling. There is also a Special Tea House for Ladies to Drink Tea, which has fairy caves and fairy bridges, and women who go out to play go there at night to drink tea and entertain, and the atmosphere is very open.
In the Song Dynasty, tea was drunk with art and culture. The tea house in the commercial street of the Northern Song Dynasty not only supplies tea fruits, but also hangs paintings, burns incense, and inserts seasonal flowers, which perfectly unifies tea and life aesthetics, and is an elegant place for friends to gossip and chant poetry.
In the early years of the Song Dynasty, sencha art and tea art coexisted, and the reason why sencha art could replace sencha art as the mainstream way of drinking tea had a lot to do with the rise of doucha. Because the Song people love tea, they both take a nap alone and are popular for parties to fight tea. Compared with the noisy liquor bureau, the tea fighting atmosphere of the Song Dynasty is very elegant and interesting. The art of tea is also closely related to the famous calligrapher Cai Xiang of the Northern Song Dynasty, who once wrote two "Tea Records", on tea and tea art, tea utensils, he believes that "tea color is precious and white", "tea has a real fragrance" and "tea taste is mainly sweet and slippery". In Cai Xiang's view, tea drinking should respect the original taste of tea and oppose adding spices to tea and taking away the original flavor of tea. As for the sweetness and smoothness of tea taste, it is still the standard for judging whether tea is good or bad.
When the Song people order tea, they need to boil the cup first, the cup is hot and the soup flower is not easy to float. The Song people drink not tea but tea cakes, first of all, to crush the tea cake into tea powder, and then put the tea powder in the building cup, one hand to fill the pot with a small amount of boiling water, the other hand with the tea basket to quickly beat the tea soup, the cup of tea end hit like a paste, continue to add water, blow again, point water 7 ways is the best. When lighting water, it is necessary to be moderate, and the point of falling water should be accurate, and the tea noodles cannot be destroyed. At the same time, the other hand should also use the tea basket to rotate and blow the tea soup in the tea cup, so that it is flooded with soup flowers, which can also be called the raft, and the soup flowers are the final effect. The tea soup of tea is milky white, the more pure white the better, to match the black cup, the minimalist combination of black and white, is the aesthetic of the Song Dynasty.
The result of the tea fight is judged by everyone tasting the advantages and disadvantages of the tea, how the water quality is, whether the soup flowers are fresh and white, and whether the bite is durable, which is a comprehensive test of tea, water, technology, aroma and so on. Su Dongpo wrote in "Sending Nanping Qianshi": "The Taoist people know that Nanping Mountain came to pilot the tea Samadhi hand", and the high-level tea master is called "Samadhi Hand".
Emperor Huizong of Song commented that the most wonderful tea is: "The tune is like melting glue, and the ring is injected into the cup." "Not only is the tea soup long-lasting, the tea is fragrant, and you can also use clear water to draw a pattern on the milky white tea soup, which is called tea play, also called water Danqing." Tea play is both skillful and aesthetic, and can point out all kinds of flowers, birds, fish and insects, mountains and trees, and even write poems on the tea soup with clear water. Song Huizong himself is also a master of water Danqing, when he orders tea soup, he can make the tea noodles float out of the moon and the stars, and the artistic conception is exquisite.
From an aesthetic point of view, the Song people's tea art reflects a tranquil, natural and beautiful artistic conception. By ordering tea, the inner state of mind and the external environment become one, and the soul can introspect and sublimate.
Fruit: The Song Dynasty ushered in the "highlight moment" of Chinese dim sum
In addition to ordering tea, Guozi is also the protagonist of tea in "Dream Hualu". Pear peach circle, candied fruit carving, bijian bean cake, deer cake, pear meat good langjun... Such a "literary" tea fruit has not only attracted the strong interest of the majority of "foodies", but also triggered the recent hot sale of traditional Chinese pastries such as fruits on the e-commerce platform. It is understood that in the major e-commerce platforms, ancient style, new Chinese style, traditional school... All kinds of "fruits" are elegant in shape and unique in shape, and some are also specially matched with antique gift boxes, tea dishes and bowls, and the sales of a national style food box have exceeded 3,000+.
Guozi, full name "tea fruit", originated in the Tang Dynasty, more than 1400 years ago. In the Tang Dynasty, the wind of tea drinking was prevalent, and there was a habit of eating refreshments (pastries) while drinking tea, and the fruit was the dim sum eaten with tea in the tea feast, so it was also called tea fruit, lettuce, Tang fruit, etc.
With the prosperity of economy and culture and the development of cooking methods and sugar making processes, the vast majority of people in the Song Dynasty no longer had a full diet, but had a more refined and rich and diverse demand. Therefore, a type of sweets collectively known as "fruits" have become a delicious taste on the tip of the tongue after tea and dinner, when drinking and meeting friends, or with refreshments, or as a snack, or enjoyed alone.
The fruits recorded in the "Tokyo Dream" are: crystal soap, lychee paste, mustard melon, plum ginger, intersoil sugar lychee, koshimei, and shiso paste. The fruit made by Sanniang in the TV series "Dream Hualu" is the most varied variety of foods recorded in "Tokyo Dream Hualu", including raw fruits, dried fruits, cold fruits, preserves, cakes and a series of snacks. These fruits appeared in all aspects of the Song Dynasty diet, especially as festive snacks and feast snacks.
Fruits of the Song Dynasty were rich and diverse, such as sweet potatoes, bean flour, mixed refining animal fats, adding caramel (maltose) or tea soup to make deer cakes, bean fruits, Bijian bean cakes, flower dumplings and other snacks, or tea cakes made by sugar pickling and honey boiling and drying, such as peach blossom fruit, cherry frying, Yuemei candied fruit, pear peach circle, candied fruit carving swirl, fried ginkgo biloba, summoning white root, dried plantain and other candied fruits or dried fruits.
From various types of fried pasta such as preserved candied fruit, twist flowers, and fried hemp balls, to puff pastry and steamed steamed buns, the fruits in the "Dream Hualu" drama are quite similar to Japanese and quince. In fact, these refreshments did indeed spread from China to Japan, and the Japanese collectively referred to them as "Tang Guozi" and have been passed down to this day, and now call them "Washiko". Our common mochi, Daifuku, yokan, gong roast, etc., are all heyachian.
The Song Dynasty can be described as the peak of the development of Chinese dim sum, and many of the dim sum we eat now have already appeared in the Song Dynasty. For example, Chongyang cake, mirror cake, molass cake, bean cake, honey cake, etc., meat and vegetarian, salty and sweet can be; There are also various dumplings such as bean balls, hemp balls, and fin balls; Wrapped steamed rice dumplings, chestnut dumplings, gold collar wrapped steamed dumplings, Qiao dumplings and other types of rice dumplings. In addition, modern people's favorite donkey rolling, date cake, mung bean yam cake and plum, hawthorn cake, etc., are basically close to the song dynasty fruit making techniques and ingredients.
Drink: Herbal boiled Song Dynasty popular "national drink"
In "Dream Hualu", Zhao Pan'er showed off the "perilla drink" of the clouds and flowing water as soon as she appeared, which was stunning. "Drinking zi", originally meant to refer to the traditional Chinese medicine decoction that was drunk at an irregular time and dosage, and later gradually evolved into an herbal tea made of fruits, spices, medicinal herbs, etc. By the Time of the Tang and Song Dynasties, it had developed into a "national popular drink".
Drink
In the late Tang Dynasty, there were drinking "specialty stores". By the Song Dynasty, the commercial economy was developed, the city tea houses were lined with liquor stores, and the drinking industry was "a hundred flowers blooming". In the "Qingming River Map", you can find many "drinking figures": for example, there are two umbrellas in front of the "Long-lived Wang Yuanwaijia" hotel, and the billboards are written with "drinks" and "fragrant drinks".
The "Perilla Drink" in the "Dream Hualu" has a high status in the Song Dynasty tea drinking circle, Song Renzong once specially organized the imperial kitchen and imperial doctor to evaluate and rank the soup drinks of various tastes and effects, and the "Shi Lin Guangji" written by Chen Yuanliang of the Southern Song Dynasty recorded, "Renzong Hanlin fixed the cooked water, with perilla as the top, agarwood second, and Mai Mendong second." The "cooked water" here is also a "drinker." The practice of "perilla drinking" is very simple, and gao lian of the Ming Dynasty wrote in the "Eight Notes of Zunsheng": "Take the leaves, bake on the paper on the fire, do not turn over, and put away the incense." Each time you use it, wash and soak it once in boiling soup, pour it out, put the soaked perilla into the pot, and pour it into the boiling water. Take it, can be wide chest guide stagnation. ”
The "Tokyo Dream" also records the lively scene of the Kaifeng Fuzhouqiao Night Market, and the "fragrant drink stalls" of the night market are particularly popular in the summer, and often open until three o'clock in the middle of the night. The Song Dynasty also appeared in the history of the most "drinking" square, perilla drink, agarwood drink, erchen drink, fragrant drink, mint drink, osmanthus drink, wumei drink, etc., these drinks are mostly selected from flowers, spices, medicinal herbs cooked, not only unique taste, but also the effect of disease removal and fitness.
Iced tea: a variety of anti-summer ice products
The Song people, who were constantly seeking innovation and change, also dared to explore in the summer summer, and the imperial court at that time specially established the "Ice Well Affair" to develop cold food to cool down and relieve the heat. "Iced tea" is a summer drink in the Song Dynasty, and experts speculate that iced tea may be made in two ways: one is made by mixing loose tea and ice; The other is to grind loose tea into tea powder, and then add ice to fuse it to make "iced tea".
The new product "Lotus Seed Bean Sand" developed by Sun Sanniang in "Dream Hualu" is widely popular, and the elaborate "Wulin Old Things", Wu Zimu's "Mengliang Record" and the West Lake Old Man's "West Lake Old Man Prosperity Record" also record many cold drinks of the Song Dynasty, including snow bubble bean water, pear pulp, ginger honey water, papaya juice, lychee paste water, bitter water, kumquat balls, snow bubble shrinking beer drink, white mash cold water, soap water, sweet bean sugar, mung bean water, shrinking beer, brine plum water, river tea water, Wuling san, Da Shun san, snow bubble plum wine, Rich family summer medicine ice water, etc. At that time, there were many kinds of ice varieties, which were no less than the menus of today's cold drink shops.
The Northern Song Dynasty poet Qin Guan wrote: "The wind is fixed and the pond lotus is fragrant. "This summer, the most pleasant thing for many people is to watch "Dream Hualu", lingering in the wind pavilion and water pavilion, listening to a pipa, enjoying a pool of lotus incense, in the elegant and exquisite "slow life" of the Song people, both taste food, but also find cool, elegant and elegant.
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