TOKYO, Aug. 4 (Xinhua) -- The women's rock climbing event made its Olympic debut on the 4th, and 20-year-old Chinese player Song Yiling played steadily in the speed race, but once again triggered a shoulder injury that led to poor climbing and difficulty results, ranking 12th and missing the final. Slovenia's Garnblatt finished first to qualify.
Rock climbing is a new event in this Olympic Games, with two all-around gold medals for men and women, players need to participate in three competitions of speed, rock climbing and difficulty, and the three ranking numbers are multiplied to get the total points, the lower the total points, the higher the ranking.
Song Yiling, a speed player who is now ranked fifth in the world, won the overall championship in the 2019 FIFINS World Cup Women's Speed Race and set a new world record for women's speed climbing in April 2019 with 7.10 seconds. In the race on the 4th, she made a mistake in the first climb and triggered an old left shoulder injury, so the second climb adopted a relatively conservative strategy, ranking third in the speed of 7.46 seconds.
China's Song Yiling competes in a rock climbing difficult event on August 4. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Chen Jianli
"My shoulder still hurts." After the three competitions, Song Yiling told reporters that she was nervous about participating in the Olympic Games, but she was very happy that the projects she practiced could be displayed on the Olympic platform. "I'll be even stronger in three years!" She said.
In the subsequent rock climbing and difficulty competitions, Song Yiling did not play well due to a shoulder injury. "In many places, she saw how to do the movements, but she couldn't exert herself, and she did try her best." Coach Zhao Lei said that Song Yiling has completed the game according to the arrangement of the coaching team, and the results are acceptable.
China's Song Yiling competes in the climbing speed event on August 4. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Chen Jianli
Due to the low difficulty of the speed players who participated in the day's race, they competed fiercely in the speed race in order to obtain the top ranking. Poland's Miroslav climbed 6.97 seconds in the first round, just 0.01 seconds away from the world record of 6.96 seconds by Russia's Kaproina. Kaplina, who then appeared, made a mistake under the pressure of the heavy pressure, and the second climb fell without results.
At this point, all the competitions of Chinese athletes in the climbing events of this Olympic Games have ended. Head coach Zhao Lei believes that although Song Yiling and 21-year-old male player Pan Yufei regret not being able to make the final, they have already played their own level. "They have a long way to grow, and they will have to accumulate more competition experience and broaden their horizons in the future." China Rock Climbing will also continue to prepare for the Hangzhou Asian Games and the Paris Olympic Games, and strive to catch up with the world-class level as soon as possible. Zhao Lei said.
Editors: Wang Hengzhi, Yu Sihui, Xiao Shiyao, Lu Yanxin (Intern)
Produced by the Xinhua News Agency's Tokyo Olympic Games Reporting Group