Daphne, Saturday, red dragonfly, when these names are mentioned, it seems to go back to ten years ago.
On the 18th of this month, the "first stock of women's shoes" released a performance forecast on Saturday, and the highest pre-loss of 645 million yuan last Saturday was the largest loss since the listing, and Saturday will continue to "sell" the footwear sales business to package and sell.
Not only on Saturday, the "generation of shoe king" Daphne also closed all offline stores in 2020, and in the first half of 2021, Daphne's revenue plummeted from 212 million yuan in the same period of the previous year to 0.5 billion yuan, a year-on-year decline of 77%.
Looking around, the women's shoe boss who once dominated the core position of the first floor of the mall is only Belle, but it is no longer a "fashion" label.
Some people wonder, Chinese women don't wear shoes anymore? No, don't wear high heels.
Nowadays, walking on the street, it is almost impossible to see young people wearing high heels, replaced by all kinds of flat shoes. In the 2021 Tmall Double Eleven brand ranking, UGG and Dr. Martens ranked in the top three of the women's shoe list. On the Little Red Book, martin boots related notes reached 270,000+.
From "goddess must-have" to "beautiful person", what have high heels experienced?
"Wear high heels to be feminine"
High heels are revered because their birth represents class and power.
In BC, the Egyptian nobility loved to wear high heels to highlight the contrast between the status of ordinary people who did not wear shoes; in the 15th century, high heels spread to Europe, when European cities were dirty, the streets were full of mud and muddy water, and wearing high heels had another role - not stepping on.
It was the French who deified high heels. In the 16th century, the French aristocracy popularized a terrible concept: "The higher the heel, the closer it is to God"; later, the fashion trender Louis XIV saw the function of high heels to increase height, and for a time high heels became exclusive to the royal family.
Later, the Italian Venetian merchants took a fancy to the inconvenient walking characteristics of high heels, and in order to prevent his wife from going out to cheat, he customized high heels for her. Unexpectedly, the high heel is more figurely, but it triggers a fashion trend and becomes a hit in the streets and alleys.
Western-style high heels were introduced to China during the Republic of China period, and since then, many classic literary and art films have left the classic picture of the heroine wearing high heels step by step, swaying and swaying.
Image source: The movie "Fancy Years"
Image source: The movie "Color Ring"
Image source: The movie "Jinling Thirteen Chao"
In those days, cheongsam and high heels were considered symbols of "femininity".
From a biological point of view, high heels can change the curvature of the female lumbar spine, visually "convex and backward". Anthropologist Helen Fisher believes that this is a mammalian pre-popping pre-preparation that can stimulate "sexy imagination".
Normal people's lumbar spine has a certain curvature, and in the case of not wearing high heels, the angle of the lumbar spine is 30 °. And put on the high heels, the angle becomes 45 °. Image source: Zhihu @ Fat Dr
In addition to physiological advantages, high heels were also linked to living conditions at that time.
In the 1980s, when the parents of the post-90s were young, the people who could wear high heels, toad mirrors, and flared pants were all city people with good family conditions and fashionable foreign style.
The "superiority" of high heels continued until the 1990s, that is, when the post-90s were young.
At that time, who did not steal through her mother's high heels; who did not envy the English teacher who walked back and forth with her feet on high heels; who did not watch "Meteor Garden" while remembering Fujido Shizuyuki's sentence "Every woman needs a good pair of shoes, it will take you to a beautiful place."
Image source: Meteor Garden
Affected by this, many people just went to college and rushed into Daphne to hold out their first pair of high heels.
High heels, thin bands, rhinestones, patent leather... Although the center of gravity is unstable and shaky, like a radish essence that has just been cultivated to adulthood, it is still tenaciously worn to go to class, shopping, dating, and even climbing mountains to visit tourist attractions.
It is no exaggeration to say that high heels are the coming-of-age ceremony for post-90s girls.
"How to be comfortable and how to come"
However, since 2012, the first batch of post-90s have entered the workplace, and they have really "grown up" and begun to abandon high heels.
After graduating from Shenyang Normal University in the 90s, Chen Qiqi came to Beijing to work, "When I first arrived in Beijing, my first impression was that I could hardly see anyone wearing high heels. Why don't Beijingers like to dress up so much? ”
Image source: Visual China
At first, Chen Qiqi stubbornly wore the pair of Poe and Daphne that she had specially chosen when she graduated, and a week later, she had an epiphany.
From Beiyuan to Puhuangyu, Chen Qiqi has to go through 2 bus stops and 16 subway stops. "The biggest challenge in catching buses and subways is to have to start at any time, miss a train, you have to be late for work; even if you catch the car, it is difficult to find a seat in the morning and evening rush hour subways, one stop is an hour, and the soles of your feet are numb when you get off the bus in high heels."
If Chen Qiqi does not wear high heels is forced by life, then Zhu Lin, product manager of Xierqi Internet Company, gives up high heels is the consciousness of the big factory people.
"In the open way office area, wearing high heels and walking away, the whole office area echoes the sound of high heels, although others do not say anything, but people have to be self-aware. And carefully decorated thick makeup is really contrary to the 'values' of the big factory, now don't talk about high heels, I can't even make up, how comfortable how to come. ”
Image source: Weibo netizen @Li Lu___
It is understandable that workers do not wear high heels, why don't the urban beauties of the CBD wear them anymore?
Han Xue, who works in marketing, has not worn high heels for 5 years. "Since driving to and from work, high heels have not been related to me. In addition, I usually go to the gym after work, wear a lululemon, and often step on a pair of Assurs to go out. ”
"Girls in Martin boots are much hotter than girls in high heels"
As demand changes, so will the product side. In recent years, the fire of women's shoes, from the rough heel Chanel, cat heel Dior, low-heel Ferragamo, CELINE flat-soled granny shoes, to affordable wearing of small CK, hot air, women's shoes have all been in the direction of lowering the heel and improving comfort.
In addition, with the rise of the tide brand, daddy shoes, canvas shoes, Loaf shoes, JK shoes, Martin boots categories have exploded, making it possible to combine fashion and comfort.
The rapid development of industrial society, the pursuit of efficiency, pragmatic pragmatism has become a common value of modern people. Nowadays, more and more people choose what to wear and pay the most attention to two words: comfort.
"I don't like the pain of my own pleasure to others, and I don't do it if I can do it."
"Wearing high heels today, is this round/this guy worth my tiredness?"
"People who like me don't mind if I wear high heels or not."
This "no one cares" momentum is actually a kind of self-confidence from the heart.
In the past, the Cannes Film Festival had an unwritten rule that "you can't walk the red carpet without wearing high heels". Today, from the international superstar barefoot on the red carpet in Cannes, to the supermodel who wore flat shoes at the four fashion weeks, to Yang Zi and Guan Xiaotong, who wore Martin boots at the award ceremony, they all showed the confidence of the old woman who did not wear high heels.
Image source: Yang Zi attends Harper's Bazaar Annual Party
After all, today's girls no longer need to rely on "femininity" to add social value to themselves. On the contrary, "independence", "personality", "atmosphere", "health" and "vitality" are what modern women pursue.
Of course, there is one more data that cannot be ignored. According to the Report on the Status of Nutrition and Chronic Diseases of Chinese Residents (2020), the average height of women aged 18-44 in China has increased by 0.8 cm in five years. In northern provinces such as Shandong, Beijing and Heilongjiang, the average height of women is more than 1 meter 65.
In this way, Chinese girls abandon high heels, mostly because of their long legs.
Why did the high heels disappear from the hot girls' feet |? RealCoolGirl
Why do high heels make women feel sexy? Is there any scientific rationale? | Zhihu. Fat Dr. Fat