Opening remarks
Bishui Danshan, pregnant with strange tea.
Inheritance is a kind of perseverance that inherits the past and opens up the future, and it is also a kind of enduring continuation.
They are a group of young people with craftsmanship, ideas and dreams.
Or born in a tea-making family, or halfway out of the family because of the love of tea. Despite their different origins, they all have the same destiny: inheriting ancient skills and pursuing excellence.
Perhaps, they are very ordinary, but they refuse to be mediocre, and they refuse to "lie flat". On the road of inheritance and innovation, we keep running and surpassing.
They are the new forces of rock tea, and they are also the rushing "back waves".
Character business card: Ye Penghui, born in 1989, general manager of Wuyishan Yijing Tea Industry Co., Ltd.
Representative Works: "Yijing Tea Industry "Dew" (Old Cong Narcissus)
"Guard the reputation of rock tea and guard the water and soil of Wuyi Mountain."
——Ye Penghui
Ye Penghui's official entry into the industry was not long or short.
This somewhat shy but very sunny big boy is very good at tea making technology, and has the temperament of a science and engineering man.
In addition to making tea, he also loves hiking.
Making tea and walking are an endless road, and there are all kinds of beautiful scenery along the way.
"It's easy to cook, it's hard to do"
Ye Penghui's childhood was spent at Cao Dun's grandfather's house.
In Caodun Village, every household makes tea. It is not only rich in Wuyi rock tea, but also "rich in" tea master chefs. In the memory of almost every child in the village, there is a "nightmare": picking tea.
This simple but boring job is a compulsory course for children in tea villages. "When it comes to winter and summer vacations, adults will send us a sieve and pick 1 pound of tea for 1 yuan." At that time, the tuition fee was $180 per semester. Earn enough tuition to play. ”
Repetitive labor, year after year. As he grew older, Ye Penghui became more and more eager to yearn for the world outside the mountains. Later, he was admitted to a university in Chongqing, from a "small mountain" to a big mountain city.
College time, green and beautiful, passed in a flash. After studying economics and trade, after graduation, he also thought about staying in Chongqing for development. However, he was still "hard pulled" back. "To make tea, you often have to stay up all night, and there are only two sisters in the family, so I'm afraid I can't eat it." He knows that going home sometimes means a responsibility.
His cousin Zhang Changxing was his first master. The cousin is not a few years older than him, and he can already make tea alone. Half master and apprentice, half brother, Ye Penghui followed his cousin to make tea for more than 3 years.
To make Wuyi rock tea, each master's technique is different, and the tea quality style is different. When he met the famous tea maker Zhou Qifu, the technique underwent a great change. Cousin's tea, mainly sold in the Chaoshan region of Guangdong. Familiar with his cousin's techniques, he often focuses on "making green and roasting".
Master Zhou does not follow the routine. He is known for making daffodils. The room temperature is usually controlled at 25 ~ 28 ° C. "He raised the room temperature to more than 30 °C, and walked water faster and more transparently. In this way, it is better to eat fire (roasting fire). It is not easy to return to green, and the bottom of the leaves is also beautiful. ”
The change of approach seems insignificant, but the process of re-adaptation is very long. However, for Ye Penghui, the most difficult thing is to roast the tea thoroughly. "How to grasp the degree of 'penetration' is a major difficulty in making tea. After that, the taste is easy to fade. Insufficient, the aroma is not high, and sometimes it is astringent. ”
"Inheritance and innovation, inheritance is more important"
As the saying goes: The master leads the door, and the practice depends on the individual. The traditional production techniques of rock tea, mastery and understanding, all rely on understanding.
In the days and nights of learning art, the more Ye Penghui learned, the more he felt that he was "ignorant" and "there were too many things to learn."
Although there is a fixed process for making tea, there is no fixed method to follow. "Look at the sky to be green, see the green to be green", is a word of mouth.
Just as there are no two identical leaves in the world, the weather, the condition of the tea green, and the personal status of the tea maker are different every day of each year.
The whole tea making process is full of variables. This requires the tea maker to make technical adjustments in a timely manner according to the actual situation, and to guide the quality of the tea in the best direction according to the situation.
After several years of cold and heat, the green leaves danced, and the roasting room was like cooking. The sweat that has been shed and the bitterness that has been eaten have turned into a golden water color between the cups, and the taste is mellow and fragrant.
"Dew" is Ye Penghui's proud work. It is a daffodil, combined with the "Xianshan", cinnamon. Xianshan dew is the personality declaration of tea, and it is also a sign of Ye Penghui's perfect skills. Ye Penghui's positioning of "dew" is: an old cong daffodil with both "cong taste" and variety characteristics, without too many words, and can be understood as soon as it is drunk.
What is "Cong Wei"? Ye Penghui's interpretation is: the tree is more than 60 years old, has undergone the baptism of years, has its own ecological environment of the place of origin, and has a strong wooden taste. The raw materials are harvested from a place called "Eight Kilometers".
Some people think that choosing to make tea on a rainy day can better express the iconic "moss flavor" of "Cong Wei". However, Ye Penghui always firmly believes that only sunny days are the ideal weather for making tea.
"The sun withers, the leaves breathe smoothly, the aroma is easier to highlight, and the clarity is higher." After all, tea, like people, yearns for sunshine and breeze.
"When the tea is waiting for the sky, the most joyful day is sunny and the north wind blows." Suffering from the rain and wind coming south, the color fragrance is reduced and tasteless. "For more than 100 years, the ancients have revealed the technical code of good tea.
When it comes to the innovation of tea-making technology, Ye Penghui thought about it for a long time and shyly laughed: "The older generation can't learn all the things, what we have to do is to pass on the craft well." ”
"Make quick money, and future generations will have no money to earn"
Making a good cup of tea is the dream of every tea maker. "Good tea should be a tea with perfect management, moderate picking, and traditional craftsmanship." These will be presented one by one in terms of the flavor characteristics of the tea. Ye Penghui said.
"In the final analysis, 'heavy taste for incense, equal emphasis on aroma' is the characteristic of a good (rock) tea." Although the taste of the market is constantly changing, roasted light-fire, heavy-aroma tea was once popular with consumers, especially those who are new to rock tea. However, Wuyi Rock Tea still has to keep its own "bottom line" and adhere to its own style, "not to blindly seek incense, not to mention that the taste can be slowly cultivated."
Chen Rafter, a famous tea scientist, once said: "The creation technology of Wuyi Rock Tea is unique, the most advanced technology in the world, unparalleled, and worthy of the Chinese working people to dominate the world." ”
Tea, when he was young, he had been afraid, and even some resistance. Today, he is proud and deeply in love. This fragrant and flavorful leaf is the link between the homeland under his feet and the past, present and future.
"Deviate from tradition, break the bottom line and make quick money, and future generations will have no money to earn." Just like guarding his mother, "keeping the reputation of rock tea and guarding this water and soil", this is a commitment of a Wuyishan child to his "mother".
Tea is different from year to year, and people are similar from year to year. Every year during the tea season, it is unknown. "Make a tea of stable quality in a full of instability, not for 100%, but for a 90% improvement rate." This is his "little goal".
In his spare time, he loves hiking, especially the mountains of western Sichuan, measuring the land with his feet and recording the scenery with his eyes.
"The more you walk outward, the more you return inward." He was walking, constantly finding himself. The road, under the feet, is also in the hands. All the way forward, all the way to the scenery.
Source: Tea Ceremony Media