—— Nanbeijun question time ——
Egg yolk ham lotus paste five-kernel rose bean paste...
Which one do you get in mid-autumn?
As a citizen of the "big eating country", in addition to the Spring Festival, the Mid-Autumn Festival can be said to be one of the most important festivals. When the moon is full here, it is inevitable that people will think of traditional pastries such as moon cake, date cake and osmanthus crisp. Speaking of the taste of these pastries, of course, it is the most authentic "Daoxiang Village".
In addition to rice dumplings and mooncakes, there is a dispute between the north and the south, and Daoxiang Village also has a dispute between the north and the south. The trademark dispute over "North and South Daoxiang Village" once became one of the "Top Ten Trademark Incidents" that was hotly discussed in 2018.
△ Su Dao? Northern Rice? Silly can't tell...
Many cake-eating people may also think that The North and South Daoxiangcun are only the branches of the Daoxiangcun brand in the south and the north, but in fact, it is not, the south and north rice are two different brands, and listen to me in detail.
History of the north and south of Daoxiang Village
From deep affection to parting ways
First of all, the name Daoxiangcun first appeared in Cao Xueqin's "Dream of the Red Chamber", which is the residence of Li Feng, and there is an article in the seventeenth time of "Dream of the Red Chamber":
Bao Yu sneered, "If the name of the village uses the word 'apricot blossom', it will be vulgar and ugly." There is also the ancient shiyun: 'Chaimen Pro rice flowers. Why not use the magic of 'Daoxiang Village'? The crowd listened, clapped their hands and said, "Wonderful! ”
Not to mention whether the name of the two dim sum shops is intentional, but it is also a little bit stained with the light of "Dream of the Red Chamber".
△ About Daoxiang Village, Cao Xueqin has something to say...
Nandao refers to Suzhou Daoxiang Village, referred to as Su Dao, which originated in 1773 and was called "Suzhou Daoxiangcun Tea Restaurant". When the Qianlong Emperor went down to Jiangnan, after tasting Daoxiangcun pastries in Suzhou, he was praised as "a delicious product in food" and a plaque with a royal inscription, which was famous all over the world.
△ If you say that it is delicious, it is delicious, and you are not allowed to refute it
According to the "Commercial Historical Materials of the Late Qing Dynasty (Part I)" and "The Rise and Fall of Various Industrial and Commercial Offices in Suzhou", during the Qing Guangxu period and the Republic of China, Daoxiangcun Tea And Candy Company and Daoxiangcun Tea Shop were also opened, and during this period, the inheritors and skills of Suzhou Daoxiangcun were inherited and never interrupted. From the origin of Suzhou, it is not an exaggeration to say that it is the originator of this brand.
Beidao refers to Beijing Daoxiang Village, Jinling people Guo Yusheng was founded in 1895, then called "Daoxiangcun South Goods Store", located in the front gate of Guanyin Temple, South Shop North Open, is the first production and operation of Southern food in Beijing.
△ The old Daoxiangcun store was restored
Due to warlord scuffles and social unrest, it was forced to close in 1926 and reopened in early 1984 with the support of the government. It is now a well-known pastry brand in Beijing and is the preferred brand for many old Beijingers to buy pastries. Historically, the two Daoxiang villages in the north and south did not have a relationship.
In the old Days, Chinese society did not have a trademark law, and it was inevitable that the two pastry shops would have the same name. For a long time, Beijing Daoxiangcun did not have its own registered trademark, while Suzhou Daoxiangcun's pastry "Daoxiangcun" trademark was applied for registration in 1982.
At that time, because Su Dao and Bei Dao were located in one south and one north, the markets were different, and there was almost no intersection between them, and even once in the "honeymoon period". Between 2003 and 2008, Suzhou Daoxiangcun twice authorized Beijing Daoxiangcun to use its trademarks.
During the authorization period, Beidao registered "Beijing Daoxiangcun" and "Sanhe Beijing Daoxiangcun", which may also become the fuse for the two brands to tear each other apart.
Since then, more than ten years of enmity and feud
From being willing to be sweet to being disgusted with each other
The two argue endlessly
As for the mutual confrontation, there are even cases
Beijing Daoxiangcun won in the Beijing court
Suzhou Daoxiangcun won at the Suzhou court
Arguing
The north and south of Daoxiang Village live separately
Respective status quo after separation
The north-south dispute in Daoxiang Village still stems from historical problems. In terms of prospect planning, Su Dao has been involved in e-commerce since 2009, and has become the first place in the pastry industry of e-commerce platforms such as Tmall and Jingdong for many consecutive years. So far, more than 600 franchise stores have covered the whole country, and the products have been exported to more than 30 countries and regions, which has become a landmark business card of Chinese pastries.
Su Dao: You don't know anything about my potential
While inheriting the tradition, we can also carry out bold reform and innovation, and constantly innovate products according to the needs of the consumer market. In the variety and packaging of pastries, we have put a lot of thought into it, and it is loved by many young consumers.
At this point, Beidao is somewhat stagnant. In the early stage, Beidao mainly attacked the southern flavor dim sum, and in the later stage, in order to adapt to the tastes of the locals, it gradually integrated the northern characteristics, so it gradually embarked on the route of "Beijing flavor". In the old days, when Beijingers visited relatives and friends, they would always go to Daoxiang Village to buy a box of "Beijing Eight Pieces" to carry.
△ With the Beijing Eight pieces, Beijingers have a New Year's flavor for the New Year
The Team of Beijing Daoxiangcun has indeed worked the taste and quality of the products. Sachima, jujube cake, hawthorn pot helmet, beef tongue cake... Solid ingredients, with the taste of Beijingers, have won a wide reputation and reputation in the local area, and have become the representative of Beijing-style pastries.
However, in 2014, it began to open flagship stores online, and offline sales were mainly concentrated in community stores in Beijing and the surrounding areas of Beijing, taking the nostalgic route, focusing on the middle-aged and elderly population, and indeed inferior to Su Dao in terms of product innovation and marketing.
North and South Daoxiang Village single charm value
One became the only one, and one became a million fans
Although Beidao is not as famous as Su Dao, in the local area, Beidao is definitely the leader in the pastry industry, and many Beijingers only recognize Beijing Daoxiang Village when they eat pastries. Even many celebrities have not escaped the temptation of Beijing's Daoxiang Village, such as Mr. Lu Xun.
Between 1912 and 1915 in Lu Xun's Diary alone, there are records of going to Daoxiang Village to buy pastries more than a dozen times, and even toothache cannot stop Mr. Daoxiang Village's attachment.
The diary reads: "(May 3, 1913) In the afternoon, I went to Xu Jingwen, a dentist in Wangfujing, to treat dental disease, and agreed to make up four teeth... Go over Daoxiang Village to buy biscuits for one dollar.".
Sir, I think your dental disease may not get better ~ T^T ~
In that era of lack of oil and water in the belly, the pastries in Beijing Daoxiang Village are the childhood memories in the hearts of many locals, that is, until now, every New Year's Festival, the old Beijingers will definitely go to Daoxiang Village to buy a box of Beijing Eight pieces, otherwise there will always be a little less festive atmosphere.
On the other hand, Su Dao, although it has made a name for itself at home and abroad, is not the first choice for Suzhou people to buy pastries in the local pastry industry in Suzhou. How many kinds of Su-style pastries are there? Suzhou is one of the main birthplaces of traditional Chinese pastries, and the long-established cake dumpling shop is not only in Daoxiang Village. There is a feeling of table tennis being the first in the world and the second in China.
△ If you want to eat dim sum in Suzhou, DaoxiangCun has to go back a little
Huang Tianyuan, Wan Fuxing, Mingyue Lou, Jinshui Lou, CaiZhizhai ... These long-established cake dumpling shops also have a certain weight in the hearts of Suzhou people. As a pastry brand facing the whole country and even the world, Su Dao needs to consider more than just the tastes of Suzhou people.
Who is the most authentic of these two pastries? There is no doubt that it should be Su Dao, after all, the history is much older and rooted in Suzhou. But if you want to say who tastes better, it is difficult to measure, the meaning of the two in their respective main places has a huge difference, Beidao is definitely the first choice in the heart of Beijing people, Su Dao may be just one of many choices in the eyes of Suzhou people.
△ Sugar oil noodles or something, the most satisfying.
The long-term coexistence of Beidao and Sudao is also a good thing, and there will be room for progress only when there is competition. If you really want a big family, I am afraid that I will not move forward. Whether from the perspective of benign market or from the perspective of consumers, in addition to the national economy and people's livelihood, industries full of competition are healthy.
Well, back to the point
This Mid-Autumn Festival, which cake are you most looking forward to?
—END—
Editing/Typesetting/Post-| Chen Yuli
Picture production | Dou Xinxin
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Public number: Suzhou South Cavity North Adjustment