Number main press
I'm ashamed to say that this article is actually "The status of the Qing Dynasty Fu Jin dynasty, actually hung on the headdress?" | The correction and correction of the "Costume Rumor Crusher", I hope that everyone can get more comprehensive knowledge through two articles. In addition, if you have any objections to the arguments and arguments of the past articles in this number, you can also submit them to us as in this article (there is a fee). Of course, the recruitment requirements are also referred to this article.
Thank you to every subscriber who reads carefully and writes in the comments section with a sense of truth or insight!
Author: Fishing Lantern (formerly known as @ Green Fruit Pancake)
Hello everyone, I'm Fishing Lantern (formerly known as @Green Fruit Pancake). The cause of the matter is this, two days ago at breakfast casually opened WeChat to see if the public account of my favorite fox sister was updated. Then I saw this one
Ah, I feel that everyone's misunderstanding of the Qing Dynasty costume "Concubine" is still relatively deep... In particular, some of the "popular science" in the early years of the clothing circle may have deepened this error, but no one has seriously investigated it (stall hands)
Cough, all in all, this time the marketing number is really right! After the discussion between the two of us, Sister Fox encouraged me to write another article to earn the manuscript fee, so I abandoned the pit and pulled open the dusty materials, and once again came back to the Section (Spit) Pu (Groove) Qing Dynasty costumes!
......... The following text begins...
Disclaimer: I am very disgusted with the feudal dross of "concubines" and "rules", and this article is purely for the examination of the history of clothing
You must have seen such remarks from some marketing numbers or costume drama comment areas: "Qing Dynasty women's big pulling wings are exquisite, and Fu Jin can wear two tassels", "The main room wears a big red dress, and the aunt is not allowed to wear it", "The phoenix crown Xia Shuai is for the exclusive use of the wife"... As a fan of costume history, I believe that you will definitely regard such a boring setting as a rumor that you are unlearned and unskilled. But this time, the marketing number may have some truth in what it says - there is indeed a similar division of concubines in history.
Hearing that some people here may have to say: No, the ancient nobles are really as calculating as in the palace fighting drama? Big families have money and willfulness, will they care about these frivolous rules?
Well, it really is... In the spirit of not being too big a deal, today I will take two head tassels as an example to take a good look at the "rules" of Qing Dynasty casual clothes -
First of all, as the traditional artistic ability of the feudal dynasty, the status of dignity and inferiority can be described as vividly reflected in the costumes of the ancients, taking the Manchu Qing Dynasty, which is the closest to us, a "Great Qing Huidian" will arrange all the crown clothes of nobles, officials, and concubines fu jin clearly, and the styles, colors, and patterns are divided according to rank, and if there is excessive trespassing, they will be punished.
△ The crown dress of the queen concubine in the illustrated book "Imperial Ceremonial Instrument Schema" of the Inner House
However, the above rules are only for formal and solemn occasions, and are not mentioned for everyday casual wear. Except for the basic provisions such as not allowing trespassing on color, not allowing men to wear Hanfu with their hair, and not allowing flag women to wrap their feet (but the above prohibition may not be strictly enforced in practice), there is no interference. Especially in the late Qing Dynasty, the casual clothes of aristocratic women were often as cumbersome as formal clothes, the most famous of which was today's protagonist: two heads.
△ The development of the two heads of Qianlong ~ Xianfeng
To friends who do not know much about Qing Dynasty costumes, two heads (also known as flag heads, one-word heads, etc.) are the most distinctive hairstyles of Qing Dynasty flag women, named because their hair is combed into two left and right. However, in history, it was popular in the middle and late Qing Dynasty, far less early than in qing palace dramas. The early two heads were smaller, and they were "tight wings and two heads" made of real hair. Later, in Guangxu and even the Republic of China, the size of the two heads became larger, and it was necessary to replace the real hair with wigs and satin, which was called "big pulling wings".
△ The "big pulling wings" of the late Qing Dynasty, made of wigs or satin
Generally speaking, the two-headed/large pull wing is a daily hairstyle that is widely popular in the palace and folk. Moreover, because of its casual nature, the two heads have never been strictly stipulated to have a difference in rank, nothing more than more decorations in the homes of the rich or on festive occasions, and the poor and everyday dress are simpler. So the following inexplicable diagrams are completely nonsense:
△ The above is all made up blindly
It is not difficult to understand that when seeing the marketing slogan of "Fujin Da la wings wear double spikes", many friends will habitually treat it as a rumor:
Whether it's right or not, and listen to me slowly—
The tassel was originally an extension of the head rope, resting on the sides of the two heads. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, although the large pulled wings of the Republic of China were changed to wigs and satin, they could still hang tassels. Judging from the data, there are cases of two head hanging orders and double tassels (more than that, they do not wear them at all). Such an inconspicuous small decoration, and belonging to casual dress, is really difficult to associate with such a strict hierarchy as "wives and concubines".
△ The princess wearing double spikes in "Daoguang Emperor Xingle Tu"
However, when carefully examining the records of the Republic of China at the end of the Qing Dynasty, surprising things appeared. Look at the following passage:
There are also significant differences in terms of attire. All brides who are 'married in a palanquin' are, within one month of their new marriage, as usual, tied with a red thread tassel on each side of the flag. As for the so-called 'girl' who 'collects the house' (Note: that is, the aunt and wife. In the palace, all those who had not yet obtained the title of Side Fujin called her a certain girl at that time), and at first they could only hang a single red thread tassel on the flag head, and it was clear at a glance that the concubine was self-divided.
—— Pu Jie, "Remembering the Life of Prince Alcohol's Palace"
Good fellow, this is not a marketing slogan, but the recollection of Pu Jie, the brother of the last emperor Puyi, is enough to prove that there are clear regulations about spikes in the palace of Prince Alcohol, and it is used to distinguish concubines. The word "as usual" shows that it has a certain tradition, rather than the "collapse of the ceremony" after the Qing Dynasty. So, is this just the rule of the high-ranking royals? Let's look at another passage:
"The red rope is knotted in the shape of a butterfly, hanging from the tassel, and the other is made of silver as a pin, like a butterfly belly, interspersed with two head wings. Double spike single spike, depending on age, the action has a flowing beauty, this system is mostly seen in the gentry family young women makeup, ordinary small households do not always have. ”
——Bao Fengkuan, "Outline of the Customs of the Flag People"
△ Yu Rongling in 1903, Double Spike. Picture source @ three shun he two sister
Born in 1876, Mr. Bao Fengkuan spent half his life under the yellow flag, and as a witness, he mentioned that spikes have the role of distinguishing age and are more common in large households. Although it is not a distinction between concubines, it also proves that it can be used as a symbol of status differences. There are also records that the double spike was dressed by noble women in the late Qing Dynasty on grand occasions. This habit continues to today's Peking Opera, where Princess Fanbang also usually wears a single spike and a double spike during the Shang Dynasty.
△ The combination of "flag python + flag head" on the stage is also derived from real history
All in all, although the number of spikes is different from the details of what the marketing number says, there are indeed certain rules and even differences between concubines.
In addition to the number, there are also rules for the color of the ears. For example, Fu Ping's "Qi Clan Old Customs" mentions that the head rope is only allowed to use red, and if it is widowed, it will be changed to black and will not be replaced. The tassel, as an extension of the head rope, also follows this custom, and rarely appears in other colors. Even if you are as noble as Empress Dowager Cixi, you cannot violate it. Judging from the portraits and photos, she can only play with the edge ball and use pearl tassels instead of black spikes. All in all, two-headed tassels are not something you can wear as you want!
△ The widowed Empress Dowager Ci'an wears a black head rope and a black tassel
△ Empress Dowager Cixi's pearl tassels
△ Of course, in film and television dramas, it is casual
Wait, aren't two heads a casual hairstyle? Why are there so many rules!
Yes, in real history, everyday casual wear also tended to have many constraints... Even after the Xianfeng Emperor ascended the throne, he was disgusted that the concubines' costumes were too luxurious, and issued quite strict casual dress regulations, and the degree of nagging was comparable to the records of formal dress in the classics! It stipulates that when combing two heads, "you are not allowed to wear tassels, butterflies, head ropes, and red spikes", "ears are dug up, and you are not allowed to wear various flowers, longevity characters, etc.", and "only two flowers are allowed to wear." If anyone wears three flowers, he shall be punished with "...
△ Concubines of the Xianfeng Emperor, who usually wear more than one flower, may be punished
Another common casual dress: the KunQiu hat, is also stipulated that "the ordinary hat streamer, the queen uses yellow, and the imperial concubine is the same." Concubines to concubines are made of apricot yellow. No matter what color the nobles are below, the two roots are the same color, the edge is five points wide and golden edge, and the edge of the flower is not allowed", "it is not allowed to wear tassels, butterflies, and large hat flowers, and there must be no tassels on the hat flowers" and so on. Even the small earrings and earrings were nagged by him for half a day.
△ Friend @ Xu Conghui Painted the Kunqiu hat, which is a winter hat often worn by women in the late Qing Dynasty.
To say more, now there are often people who popularize "Kun Qiu hat only women's models", but the reality is really not necessary.
△ Streamer of Kun Qiu's hat, collected by the Palace Museum
I believe that seeing this, you should have come to the correct answer: casual clothes in the Qing Dynasty did have a higher degree of freedom than formal clothes. However, this does not mean that it can be arbitrarily arbitrary: it will still be limited to a certain extent, and even have differences in the rank of concubines. Moreover, in the late Qing Dynasty, many casual clothes had a tendency to develop towards ceremonialization, such as tunics, gowns, and horse coats were regarded as formal dresses, and large wings and Kunqiu hats were even often used to match jifu.
△ Mix and match, it is not strange
Obviously, such a troublesome statement, although rigorous, is very inconvenient to understand memory. It is no wonder that clothing history enthusiasts are more likely to fall into the misunderstanding of understanding ancient casual clothes as "casual wear". However, is the marketing number really reliable this time? I have reason to believe that what they call the "rules of concubines" are just a blind fabrication, but this time it just happens to be in line with history — most of the time it is outrageously wrong.
Such "repeated rumors" are common in the entire popular science environment, and my friend Science Popularization Big V @ Bird in the Next Dusk has mentioned:
In the circle of costume history, such examples are not in the minority, there should be many people believe that the golden silk wing good crown is a funerary product, "clothing and animals" was originally a positive word, and the people's national flag robe and the Qing Dynasty flag man's robe have nothing to do with such a "rumor", right?
△ A long-standing misunderstanding
Why is it that this time we talk about "concubines" in detail? It was also affected by one thing I saw before, when a rather authoritative blogger used an unquestionable tone of "popular science" ancient civilian clothes to have no distinction at all, and the forwarded comments were all "East Palace Niangniang Baked Flatbread"... And so on, but almost no one seriously delved into the problem.
Errors and omissions are normal, and ideas that were once taken as truth may be overturned by new research later. What I'm really worried about is the "black and white" argument on the Internet (including popular science circles). After all, it's easier to spread what you say. It's easy to credulously believe a certain person or a certain sentence and move from one extreme to the other, rather than calming down and seeking verification on their own. For the popularizers themselves, they should be more vigilant: the controversial remarks thrown out in order to attract people's attention are likely to become a trap against themselves, and even arouse the public's antipathy to all science popularization workers.
It is often emphasized that the qipao is not a flag suit, but in fact the term "qipao" has appeared as early as the Qing Dynasty, and originally it specifically referred to Manchu clothing.
It seems to be too far away, writing this article, is not to rely on their own familiarity with a small point of knowledge, but to rush to "punch" others. As an amateur, my knowledge reserves are also very limited, including this article is certainly not perfect. If a friend could come up with more information and overturn my point of view, it would be even better! I look forward to sharing your views in the comments section
Finally, as a bird watcher, have a happy picture
A short-toed carved grid with a "single spike large pull wing"
(Actually, it's the black capuchin that's harassing it, a kind of tough bird)
Thanks for reading, like please remember to share oh ^_^
-
* Other articles by the author *
Spring plum fox traditional costume
A Tibetan fox with a face on the ground, a clothing lover in a paper pile
[ NetEase New Humanities Wave Plan Signed Account ]
[ Baidu Encyclopedia TA says invited popular science author ]
Remember to follow if you like