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The customs of Laba vary from drinking alcohol to drinking porridge

The customs of Laba vary from drinking alcohol to drinking porridge

"December Order" - December (Qing)

The customs of Laba vary from drinking alcohol to drinking porridge

"Village Boy La Drum Diagram"

sinology

Today, the eighth day of the first lunar month.

Entering the WaxIng Moon is the year, and there are many important days in the Waxing Moon, the first of which is the LapPa Festival. On the eve of Lapa Ba, the adults of every household are busy boiling Lapa Ba porridge. By the next morning, you can drink the steaming sweet and delicious porridge. Drinking Laba porridge on a la-ri basis is a tradition that has lasted for thousands of years, and this custom has existed as early as the Song Dynasty. However, before the Song Dynasty, people celebrated this festival not to drink porridge, but to drink wine.

Text: Guangzhou Daily all-media reporter Zhong Kui

Photo: Guangzhou Daily all-media reporter Zhong Kui (remake)

Lari, once a "carnival"

Look at the "Poetry Sage" Du Fu's "Wax Day" poem: "The daily warmth of the Wax day is still far away, and this year the Wax Day is completely frozen." The snow color of the invasion is also grass, and the spring light leaks with wicker. Indulging in alcohol to seek a good night of drunkenness, he returned home to the Zichen Dynasty. Lipstick noodle medicine with grace, green pipe silver popping under the nine xiao. This poem was written in December of the second year (757) of Emperor Suzong of Tang's reign. The first four sentences write about the weather and scenery, and the last four sentences write about the lak-ri festival customs. On the day of La, the emperor rewarded lipstick and flour medicine. Lipstick is put into a tubular green tube, equivalent to today's lip balm. The face medicinal silver poppy is a medicine that nourishes the facial skin, equivalent to today's moisturizer. After retreating from the dynasty, Du Fu hurried home, put wine and dishes on the table, raised a glass and drank bitterly, and was drunk.

Tao Yuanming, china's first pastoral poet, the greatest pleasure in this festival is also to drink, and his "Wax Day" poem Yun: "I sing Er's words, and there is so much wine." Not much is known, Zhang Shan has a strange song. "During the wax day season, put the wine into chanting, and the fun is endless.

Feasting and drinking on Wax Day or Wax Day is an ancient style. In the pre-Qin period, this festival was even a "carnival". The Book of Rites and Miscellaneous Notes reads: "Zi Gong guan yu wax. Confucius said, 'Give it to you?' "Every man of a nation is mad, and he gives him pleasure in the unknown." After visiting the "Wax Festival", Zigong (Duanmushi) expressed his incomprehension of "All Crazy". Confucius said that it took everyone a year of hard work to nourish this day, and the truth is not something you can understand.

"Wax" is different from "wax" in ancient times

Although it is the same year-end festival, "wax" and "wax" are different in ancient times. Wax, the Book of Rites and The Suburban Animals, says, "Wax is also the one, so also." In December, all things are gathered and so forth. Because the "wax festival" is mainly to bless agricultural production and celebrate the harvest, the scene is very lively, like a carnival; La, the Eastern Han Dynasty Ying Shao "Customs and Righteousness" said: "Wax, hunting also, Yantian La takes animals and animals to sacrifice its ancestors." "That is, to sacrifice ancestors and so on with hunted animals and animals."

Both the "wax festival" and the "wax festival" are held at the end of the year, and the "wax festival" is generally held first, and then the "wax festival" is held. On what day, each dynasty is different. The designation of Lapa as Lapa Day should only appear in the Song Dynasty. Before the Song Dynasty, Lari was a big festival, and many activities were held, of course, holidays. According to records, the Lari Festival lasted for five days in the Qin and Han dynasties, and the Lari Festival during the Tang and Song dynasties was a three-day holiday.

In the Song Dynasty, Laba Porridge officially appeared

After the Fall of the Tang and Song Dynasties, the Lari Festival gradually declined. During the Yuan and Ming dynasties, the "wax festival" was cancelled, and during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, the "wax festival" was abolished, and the Lari Festival was withdrawn from the list of official festivals. The official Lapa Festival gradually declined, which is the day of the rise of the folk Lapa Festival. In the Tang Dynasty, the Lapa Festival began to appear. In the Song Dynasty, Laba Porridge officially appeared. The Records of Dreams says: "On the eighth day of this month (December), the monastery called it 'Lapa Ba'. Temples such as dacha have five-flavor porridge, known as Lapa Eight Congee. ”

The Southern Song Dynasty MengYuan Elder's "Tokyo Dream Record" said: "The people of the capital are also eating porridge cooked with fruits and miscellaneous ingredients. Since then, Laba porridge has become popular, and various places have imitated it, and with the eighth day of the first month of December as the wax day, gradually forming the Lapa Festival with drinking Laba porridge as the main custom.

Laba porridge, mainly based on fragrant valley and fruit as raw materials, has five flavors, so it is also called "five-flavor porridge". After evolution and development, the methods and ingredients of Laba porridge are more colorful, and the laba porridge in various places has its own characteristics. In addition, from Lapa Porridge, It has evolved into Lapa Garlic, Lapa Vinegar, Lapa Noodles, Lapa Tofu, etc., making Lapa Festival a food festival with the theme of health care.

Lapa Festival is a typical northern festival, not very popular in the south of China, especially Guangdong people, rarely pass the Lapa Festival, and even do not think that Lapa Is a festival, which may be related to the traditional customs and eating habits of Guangdong. Northerners believe that "after the eighth year of Lapa is the year", cantonese people believe that it is not until the "small year" (the twenty-fourth day of the waxing moon) that it enters the New Year's Pass.

Source: Guangzhou Daily

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