Mention the dog ignoring, everyone will think of his sky-high bun.
Although the bun is his living signboard, there is one thing to say, and his dishes are no worse than other old Tsumen shops. Interestingly, everyone knows that roast duck is the number one food symbol in Beijing, right? In fact, Tianjin's roast duck is also quite good. And its sauce is sweeter, and it also puts osmanthus and tangerine peel, which makes the taste more unique.
No, I found a few old photos of several dishes of Chef Zhao Shufeng, the special chef of the Dogbu Restaurant in the early 90s, and gave everyone a palm and eye.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="01" data-track="9" > pink spicy fish</h1>
Traditional Lu cuisine. It is made by chopping the meat of the fish into strips and simmering it with dry powder. It seems to be homely, but in fact, there is a clean house. For example, the bluefish must weigh more than 10 pounds, and it is better before and after the frost falls, otherwise the meat is not thick and fragrant. The large powder skin must choose Shandong Linyi, this large powder skin will be mixed with about 12% of mung bean starch in the sweet potato starch, so that it is not rotten for a long time, crystal clear, soft and tendonous.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="02" data-track="14" > pot collapse arabidopsis box</h1>
Large mustard cutter thick slices, smeared with shrimp puree in the middle. Then wrap the egg paste and cook it with the pot collapse technique. This is a fusion of Cantonese and Lu innovative dishes. In the north, tenderloin slices and tofu are mostly made, and the filling is mainly minced pork. The aroma is slightly greasy. Therefore, the thick mustard greens are made into boxes, filled with delicious and refreshing shrimp puree, and the flavor is more fresh and crisp, not oily or greasy.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="03" data-track="18" > dog ignores the bun</h1>
It looks really good, it is done with a board and an eye, and the water filling is the biggest advantage. As for the taste, the benevolent see the wise. But my personal opinion is that although the dog does not pay attention to the bun, it is expensive, but the taste belongs to the middle and upper in Tianjin. In the end, it is not difficult to eat, that is, the cost performance is super low.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="04" data-track="23" > stewed fish</h1>
The stewed fish are marine fish, namely Bohai Bay striped fish, Zhoushan yellow croaker, and Fangcheng Port's mackerel. So it's much fresher than usually stewed with river fish.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="05" data-track="26" > braised mullet eggs</h1>
The so-called mullet eggs are actually the tangled egg glands of female cuttlefish. This is a very famous kung fu dish in Lu cuisine. After fresh cutting, it is also rubbed repeatedly with table salt and alum to remove the fishy smell and dehydrate the protein so that it solidifies like an egg, which is a treasure in the sea. It has been revered since ancient times. For example, Yuan Ming once said it in the "Suiyuan Food List":
Mullet eggs are the freshest and most difficult to serve, and the water of the river must be rolled through, the sand is removed, and the chicken soup and mushrooms are simmered.
The chef will first boil the mullet eggs in boiling water. Then tear them into egg slices one by one, or burn or stew them. But because it still has a slight fishy smell, it is generally reused pepper to make it sour and spicy.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="06" data-track="39" > four-life hot pot</h1>
The so-called four-life hot pot refers to an old hot pot that the dignitaries in the Beijing-Tianjin area must eat after the cold dew. The traditional four-life refers to Liao ginseng slices, mountain chicken slices, Bohai Bay shrimp kernels, and sika deer slices. You can imagine how rare the ingredients are, how expensive the price is, and the people can't afford to eat them.
Later, after liberation, if the tradition of four hot pots is to be maintained, will the people's lives still be lived? So it's turned into lunch meat, lamb fillets, beef fillets, grass carp or silver carp fillets. It will also be eaten with vermicelli, wakame, and scorched circle (Tianjin usually replaces it with oil cake). Hot and hot, fresh and hot, after the meat addiction is full of mouthfuls. After eating, blanch some cabbage vermicelli, hey, great my brother.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="07" data-track="48" > crispy fish strips</h1>
This is nothing to say, fresh fish strips are marinated and then hung up, and fried in the pan. Bottom underneath is kelp pine. It is to fry the kelp under the shredded oil pan and sprinkle it with sugar or salt. Thirty or forty years ago, this pine and that pine were popular, as well as bean sprout pine, potato pine and so on, which are now rare.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="08" data-track="44" > Peking duck</h1>
At that time, it was far less convenient to travel from Beijing to Tianjin than it is now. If it is fast, it will take three or four hours, and if it is slow, it may take half a day. So the dog ignored and sold Peking duck, just to make the Tianjin people who like to eat a tooth sacrifice to get a mouth addiction.
But the Tianjin version of Peking duck is different. First of all, because many Tianjin people can't eat so much oil, so the ducks selected are thin, the skin is close to the lean meat, and the fat layer is not obvious. Secondly, Tianjin's roast duck is not roasted in an open oven, almost all of them are roasted in the oven, that is, the genre of cheap shop.
Finally, as I said earlier, Tianjin's Limin sweet noodle sauce tastes a little sweeter, and because the first hotel chefs who introduced roast duck to Tianjin have the ability to cook Cantonese cuisine. So the roast duck reminded him of the roast goose in Guangdong, and he improved the sauce.
Originally, I added sour plum sauce and rose sauce, and I felt very incompatible. Later, after repeated mixing, the addition of osmanthus sauce and tangerine peel powder found that the effect was extraordinary, which could remove the thick taste of the sweet noodle sauce itself and feel fresh, and the most innovative taste was retained.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="09" data-track="54" > written at the end:</h1>
In fact, over the years, a variety of innovative dishes are emerging in an endless stream, but the innovation is more and more unintelligible, which is a fundamental problem. At the end of the day, what is chef innovation for? The dish is for everyone to eat, and the purpose of the innovative dish is to eat better. If you don't like it, or if you mix and invent for the chef's own likes and dislikes, then what value is there?
"The people take food as the sky, and food is based on taste." No matter how highly unified the color, aroma and meaning of Chinese food are, in the final analysis, it falls on the "taste". Whether innovative dishes have the meaning and value of existence lies in whether they can be welcomed by diners. Therefore, there are two sentences after "food is based on taste", that is, "the taste of the right dish is successful, and the taste of the dish is lost." No matter how much brain you use and how much effort you put in, but fundamentally ignoring the taste of the dish, it is doomed to be short-lived.
And my point is very simple, but also a simple eight words:
"There is no law on the dish, there are rules for the dish."
After understanding it, it is a qualified chef.
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