Journal of Literature · Night reading at the moment
Night before bedtime reading, a beautiful article, takes you into the world of memory of reading.
A thousand years ago, Su Dongpo, with a picnic with new tea in early spring, was interested and wrote "Huanxi Sha", which has a saying, "Snow foam milk flower floating noon, artemisia annua shoots try spring plate." The taste of the world is pure joy. ”
In the spring delicacies, there are the openness of the eastern slope and the thoughts of the present people.
Do you remember the end of 18 years, the "late night poisoning" food documentary "Flavor of the World" was launched, the general director Chen Xiaoqing, the narrator Li Lihong, the soundtrack Ah Kun... The three immortals who once filled the public with saliva reloaded, bringing us a familiar and seductive taste.
This team will really pick the time, April will end, the country's cities and scenic spots in an orderly restart, the second season of "Flavor of the World" is online late at night.
It is still a familiar taste, a familiar journey of life, constantly extending the audience's memory of hometown, food, and the taste of youth. The poster designed by the Yellow Sea visually conveys that on the flavor planet, human beings have never stopped pursuing the footsteps of delicious food. Attentive viewers can also feel that many humanistic feelings have been added to this content expression, and the writing of writers such as Y.A. Guncharov, Pamuk, and Wang Zengqi on the relationship between humans and food is also interspersed in the documentary.
Flavor in the world, the base is the sense of truth, is the human expectation of a better life. From the snowy region of Tibet to the salt fields of Ningbo, from Nepal to Norway, whether it is the first warrior to eat crabs a thousand years ago, or a hunter who is not afraid of life and death to pursue sweetness thousands of miles away, human beings travel through time and space, across the earth, just for a full stomach. And this "blessing" has never been easy to come by. During the post-editing phase of the documentary, at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, Chen Xiaoqing wrote an exclamation, "On our screen: gentle smiles, clenched hands, affectionate hugs, intimate kisses, and family feasts... Watch the show and look out the window. For a moment I will think that the life in the program is what life should be, and I hope that the epidemic will pass a day earlier and make our world full of delicious and joyful again. ”
So the theme of the first episode was set as "Sweet Tapestry".
Sweetness, originating from the lips and teeth, stirring up the wind and water at the mouth and tongue, but falling in people's hearts a thousand times. In the first episode, the hardship of obtaining cliff honey can make people feel the sweetness of it; between the soft and tender sugar oil, the fragrance of the original wheat is wrapped; oil, carb and sugar have become the highlights of the banquet table in the Bashu region. In particular, in the process of honey picking, the commentary mentions the picking principle of honey pickers "picking half and leaving half", such details show the harmonious concept between traditional beekeepers and the ecological environment.
The sugar concentration in this episode is too high, but the meaning is full, not only the program team "hopes to stand in the eventful 2020, look back and taste the beauty of the world", but also the biggest sugar sprinkling blessing for this bitter spring.
Reading this evening, let's grab the jadeite sale in the documentary and see the human story behind it.
Burn the status of the jianghu
Text/ Shen Jialu
(Originally published in Literature Daily, January 2017)
Burned in Shanghai, the status of the jianghu has always been more awkward. Compared with the fresh meat bun, its body is obviously thin, and compared with the small cage steamed bun, its waist circumference is larger, but it does not feel full when it eats seven or eight in one breath. Compare it with the raw fried food that is full of streets, and people must be partial to the latter.
Heaven and earth conscience, do not worry about selling at all, but also roll out the dough skin, more carefully than raw fried skin, there must be a thin ruffle, with three fingers in the head and neck of a pinch, the top is like a flower, will look good. Burn the mouth, pay attention to the tightness, tighten it, eat the mouth stiffly, close the mouth loose, the marinade inside is easy to flow out. If it is not loose, it is like controlling the current amount of money, and the knowledge is very large. Then steaming, the water in the iron pot suddenly rolls, the fire in the hearth is roaring, sweating, really hard!
This business was bottomless, and the master simply did not do it. For a long time, Shanghainese people can eat the four big Kongs in the morning, eat raw frying, eat small cages, and eat fresh meat bags, but it is difficult to find a specialty store.
Today, the catering market is full of wind, raw frying, small cages flaunting the market, pot stickers, fried buns also come to cut a piece of cheese, three diced buns, dried vegetable buns, fresh meat buns, shiitake mushroom buns, bean paste buns, etc. The bun family is full of people, punching and kicking in the market, running horses. At this time, the Hidden Dragon is no longer lonely in the burning sale of the Yuan, and it is back out of the jianghu!
At first, there was still some hesitation in the re-emergence of the jianghu roast sale, first playing the pro-people card with glutinous rice roast, but the rich people did not buy its account. If you want to eat it, eat pure meat, or fresh meat with spring shoots, or shrimp. In short, in the aesthetic form requires one bite, in the taste sensation to require the upgrade of the grade, in the price allowed to let go, reasonable competition.
Yakishi is a type of pasta that is steamed with hot noodles as a belt filling. After research, food history experts believe that the source of roast sales began in Yuan Dadu, that is, Beijing, and slowly became popular in the south of the Yangtze River, so the qualifications for roast sales are not old, not as good as steamed buns and buns, and not as good as wontons. The name of the roast sale changes from time to time, one will be called roasted wheat, carrying, opening the steamed bun, opening the mouth, laughing, and the other will be called slightly wheat, Shou Mai, ghost pengtou, and plum, in Jiading, once called "yarn hat". There are descriptions of the form of production and sale, there are also descriptions of the fluffy shape of its top, and there are dialects that affect it.
However, from my reading experience, I found an interesting phenomenon, "the first foodie in ancient China" Yuan Ming recorded 55 kinds of dim sum in his "Suiyuan Food List", there are cakes and cakes, noodles, tangyuan and rice dumplings, but they are not sold. Some red scholars believe that "Dream of the Red Chamber" is actually a history of Chinese food, but there is no shadow of burning in it, and Brother Bao and Sister Lin have not eaten it. In "Golden Plum Bottle", I found clues about the sale of peach blossoms, such as Count Ying and others who had eaten peach blossoms for sale, and Ximen Qing who gave Hou Inspector Fu and Song Patrol to eat was a big rice roast. The former is meat filling, divided into pork filling, lamb filling or beef filling, and the latter is the ancestor of glutinous rice roasting.
Now, China's catering market is booming, and many urban and rural areas from north to south are steaming and selling, each with its own secrets. In other places, the yakitori I have eaten is various in appearance, but the core competitiveness is reflected in the filling. In addition to pork, I have eaten beef yakiniku, lamb, chicken, shrimp, etc. Once in a county-level city in Jiangsu, I also ate the roast sale of radish stuffing and cabbage filling, and the taste was not bad. The roast in northern cities may add garlic, the taste is not bad, sometimes the sugar is too heavy, but also disgusting.
Once, I went to nanjing confucius temple with a few collectors to find treasures, drinking tea and eating breakfast in a tea house by the Qinhuai River. Five or six kinds of dim sum were put together into a set, including jadeite roast for sale, and I was surprised to pick it up and eat it. not? Not hot, salty, and once you take a bite, you have no appetite.
Jadeite roast sale is a famous point in Yangzhou, pioneered by Chen Buyun, the founder of Fuchun Tea Society, which is characterized by thin skin and green filling, color such as jadeite, sugar oil full of mouth, sweet and fragrant. The key is in the filling, made of green vegetable puree, add honey, add lard, and then add steamed ham to freshen, so sweet with salty, salty without pressure sweet. Tang Lusun wrote in the book "Sour, Sweet, Bitter, Spicy and Salty" that he felt about eating jadeite roast at Yuemingxuan in Yangzhou:
"Sugar Bee Cake and Emerald Roast Sale"
"Brother Hu invited me to have morning tea at Yuemingxuan, and as soon as he entered the door, he told Tang Qi that I had just come from Beiping to make a cage of jadeite to sell, so that I could taste the famous points of Yangzhou." People have eaten and seen it, let the case be done well. This care does not matter, this cage of dim sum is naturally specially processed and finely made, the stuffing is minced and pureed with tender green vegetables, plus cooked lard and sugar stirred, small steamer pine needle substrate, burned pleats pinched evenly, steamed thoroughly, the edge flowers are not like the northern burnt sold piled up with thin noodles (dry flour, the north is called thin noodles). I have experience eating Sichuan green bean paste, it does not look very hot on the outside, but it can burn people in the mouth. Clip a roast to sell, slowly once worked, sure jasper dissolved pulp, fragrant not greasy, since then the hot noodles sweet stuffing steamed perception has changed a lot. ”
I called the waiter over to ask for the end, the waiter could not answer, and then asked the head chef to come out and tell him the origin of jadeite roasting: In the old society of all evils, there were many opium ghosts in yangzhou' gold caves, and opium addicts were bitter all day long, and they needed sweets to regulate, and the Fuchun Tea Society launched a jadeite roast with pleasant color, freshly steamed, and high sweetness to meet the needs of this part of the people. Today, everyone does not smoke opium, but this feature seems to be impossible to change at will.
Emotional factors aside, purely from the perspective of production, I think that The yakitori in Shanghai is much better than the yakitori in many northern cities. Today, when Shanghainese mention burning and selling, they must be called "xiasha". Yes, the roast sales in Kangqiao, Zhaojialou, Qibao, Xinchang and other places are very famous on the Internet, and they all call themselves the right vein of Xiasha roast sales and are included in the intangible cultural heritage directory of Pudong New Area. Fresh diced pork with diced bamboo shoots, and a rich and mellow skin jelly, the taste of the filling is indeed not bad.
Tang Lusun is also obsessed with the jadeite roast sale, he also wrote in "Sugar Bee Cake and Jade Roast Sale": "Shanghai later opened a beautiful restaurant, which was run by Yangzhou people, what bean sand pea steamed dumplings, wild duck vegetable heart simmered noodles, five ding shrimp buns, jujube clay pot cake, all Yangzhou noodles, it can be said that there is everything, and it is exquisite and delicate, and the taste is not lost in the craftsmanship of several noodle restaurants in Yangzhou." There is only one jadeite roast for sale, although the announcement of the jadeite roast sale will soon be put in the market, but it has not been taken out to the market, what is the reason, although it is unknown, it is speculated that it is probably difficult for the master to please it! ”
If the dining room mentioned by the old man is still there today, just by virtue of the few snacks he wrote about, the business will definitely be good enough. To add, I have been to Taiwan many times and tasted many characteristic snacks under the guidance of friends, but I have never eaten them for sale.
New Media Editor: Zheng Zhouming
Pictured: Documentary stills
New Year's Cultural and Creative Season
Postal code: 3-22