Qianlong gave the plaque "all in one place"
After the Qing Dynasty entered the Customs, it experienced the three dynasties of Shunzhi, Kangxi and Yongzheng, and in the past hundred years, by the time of Qianlong, the overall situation had been determined, and the people's livelihood was Sufa. When the Qianlong Emperor Hongli ascended the throne (1736), he was only twenty-four years old, and during his reign, Wenzhi martial arts were called Longsheng, and he liked to go out to visit the "Patrol Luck", and although the poetry and calligraphy were not good, they were happy to do it. There are many stories of the Qianlong Emperor in folklore. The Qianlong Emperor alone can say that he traveled to Jiangnan for a few days, but it is difficult to say how authentic it is. The Qianlong plaque mentioned here is "all in one place", but it is true, because there are still original plaques as evidence.
It is said that on the day of the Chinese New Year's Eve of the old calendar in the third year of Qianlong (1738), Qianlong returned from a plainclothes private visit to Tongzhou Capital (present-day Tongxian County, a suburb of Beijing), and it was midnight (eleven o'clock) outside the front door. According to the custom of Beijingers, Chinese New Year's Eve night, many shops have long been closed, and they are reunited at home for the New Year. At this time, Qianlong found that there was a small hotel on the south side of the fresh fish mouth outside the front door that was still open for business, and there were still many old people sitting inside drinking and chatting, so he walked in, and the treasurer greeted him very well. Qianlong drank wine and chatted with the drinkers for a while. Before leaving, he asked the treasurer what the name of this shop was, and the treasurer said that this shop had never had a name, and Qianlong resigned.
A few days later, a eunuch brought a plaque saying that it had been given by the emperor. Only to see that this plaque is not big or small, Seiko carving, black lacquer gilded, lace even tiger head, the plaque in the middle of the "all in one place" three words glittering. The treasurer of the small hotel was originally a native of Fushan, Shanxi Province, named Wang Lingyu, who was so ecstatic at that time that it was needless to say that "all in one place" has since been famous in Beijing.
The original plaque given by Qianlong has been preserved intact for more than 240 years. Today's "Du Yi" is opened on qianmen Street diagonally opposite the original site, and the "Du Yi" on the façade is Guo Moruo's dashing and vigorous ink. The original plaque given by Qianlong was hung on the front wall of the large restaurant.
"Du Yi Chu" has a lot of delicious business, the most prestigious of which are stalk wheat, fried triangle, rotten meat and marlin meat, etc., and all kinds of famous liquors and medicinal liquors are complete. The calligraphy and paintings in the elegant seat are furnished, and every day the door is like a market, and the business is booming.
Some people say that Qianlong gave the plaque "all in one place" because he came here to eat the wheat, and felt that the taste was comparable to that of the imperial food of the imperial palace. Although this statement is not unreasonable, according to the teacher in the shop, the operation of the wheat was only started after the "capital is one place" and the original small hotel expanded its business. The syrup does have its own unique flavor, it is a food stuffed with dough and very delicately made. Flour and dough are first rolled into a soup dough, then rolled into thin slices, and then rolled into a thin skin three inches in diameter with twenty-three or four folds, shaped like a lotus leaf. The filling of the bag is diverse, which can change with the seasons, of which three fresh fillings (sea cucumber, prawn meat, magnolia slices or eggs for the three fresh, add pork, but not counted as "fresh", add leeks or leek loins and other ingredients, mixed with sesame oil) is the best, the skin of the package is thinly stuffed into a pomegranate shape, the mouth is shaped like a wheat ear, the filling is slightly exposed, and a thin frost-like powder is hung on it, just like the wheat tip end of the ear hanging pollen in April and May, so it is called the end of the wheat.
Later, some people mistakenly wrote it as burning for sale, but changed the original meaning. The wrapped shredded wheat is steamed on the drawer and is extremely delicious when eaten, which can be used as a snack or as a staple food, and is one of the famous Beijing-style foods. Later, there were several wheat houses opened in Beijing, but it was still the best to "all in one place".
Fried triangle is another traditional food with a special flavor that is served by "Duichi". It uses hot noodles as the skin, wrapped in brine filling, good pork, fat and lean separated, lean boiled, fat simmered, and then cut into diced meat, add meat skin minced, add green leek segments, use sesame oil, good soy sauce and other fine ingredients, mix well into a brine filling, wrap into a triangle, fry in a frying pan. Eating fried triangles and soup buns should be cautious to prevent the soup from splashing and even scalding the mouth, you can first use chopsticks to poke an eye on the triangle, first suck the soup inside, and then gently bite open, and then slowly taste the soup after it is slightly cool. Golden triangle, tender on the outside and tender on the inside, fresh and delicious.
There are many varieties of hot and cold dishes served by "Du Yi Chu", the most famous of which are bad meat and marlin meat, both of which are traditional cold dishes.
Bad meat is made of white meat soaked with fragrant lees, not greasy when eaten, slightly sweet; marigold meat is bundled with marigold grass with three layers of meat pieces, boiled with ingredients, broth into jelly, can be sliced into a cold plate, economical, unique flavor.
Cheap Fang and Quanjude
People who have eaten Peking duck are all praised, but they often only know its good and do not know why it is good. It is worth remembering the fact that the learners have told you today.
Originally, there were two roast duck restaurants in Kyoto, the cheap shop of the fresh fish mouth outside the front gate and the Quanjude of the meat market outside the front gate. The former opened in the fifth year of Qing Xianfeng (1855) to operate roast duck in a stew oven; the latter in the twelfth year of Qing Tongzhi (1873) to operate open oven roast duck.
What is the difference between a stew oven and an open hearth? It is understood that the former makes sorghum stalks, fill the stove and ignite, the smoke in the furnace is pure and flameless, then put the slaughtered and washed duck in the furnace, close the furnace door and stew, because the fire is not very strong, the roasted duck is particularly tender and soft, especially suitable for the elderly. However, only five or six ducks can be roasted in a single oven. Later, Quanjude opened, invented the use of open oven roast duck, the net duck in the oven, the use of fruit wood fuel (preferably jujube wood), a furnace can be roasted twenty or thirty, roasted duck is particularly crispy.
Before entering the furnace, the net duck undergoes a multi-processing process. The selected duck is a "stuffed duck" specialty of the suburbs of Beijing, which is very plump.
Then there's duck slaughter and dehairing. To clean duck, it must also go through the processes of pumping (drumming up the skeleton), digging and washing the chamber (neither of which can be broken and leaking), hooking (selected in the appropriate place), scalding the skin (poured with boiling water), beating sugar (pouring with caramel water), drying the skin (yin drying) and other processes. Each process is very strict, if you accidentally break the skin a little, you will not be able to enter the furnace due to air leakage. When roasting duck, it is also necessary to plug the butt with sorghum stalks and pour boiling water into the chamber to make up for the lack of moisture in the roast duck itself, so as to keep it tender and achieve the external roasting and internal cooking, maturity evenly. The breast part of the duck is tender and the roasting time should not be too long; the side and back of the duck, as well as the breech part, are due to the relatively backfire, and the baking time should be slightly longer. In short, the fire must be mastered just right, and the fire must be evenly burned everywhere. It's a superb production technique. The famous old technicians Zhang Wenzao and Tian Wenkuan, who are still alive, are extremely skilled. There are also some young technicians who are also quite good in technology, such as Zhen Huamin, Ren Chunde, Liu Dechang, etc., who have hired Japanese friends as experts to open business in Japan.
Although the roasting methods of the two roast ducks in Cheap Fang and Quanjude are different, they are similar. The roasted ducks are characterized by tender skin, bright and fresh color, oil that is not greasy, and cannot be tired of eating for a long time. Served with cucumbers, radishes, green onions, and garlic paste, it is served with lotus leaf cakes, sweet cakes or hollow burnt cakes. Finally, the duck rack makes soup, the soup is milky white, delicious and delicious, quenching thirst and quenching food.
Later, the roast duck was eaten more carefully, and it developed to eat "whole duck seat". Using different parts of the roast duck, dozens of dishes are made, such as fried duck gizzard, fried duck liver, brine duck bladder (boneless), mixed duck intestines, bad duck three whites, braised duck four treasures, duck breast, goldfish duck, fried duck heart, crispy fried duck rolls, braised duck tongue and so on.
After the development of two roast duck shops in Cheap Fang and Quanjude, Wangfujing, Hepingmenwai and some large hotels have roast duck shops or concurrently operate roast duck business, and the business is booming.
Fangshan dialect of the year
Friends gave me a box of imitation meals, including vera bean rolls, pea yellow, small nests, koji cakes and so on. Tasting the delicate pea yellow, I remembered the scene of drinking at the "Fangshan Tea Estate".
In 1924, Feng Yuxiang ordered his subordinate Lu Zhonglin to expel Puyi from the palace, and the imperial kitchen in the palace was scattered among the people. Around 1925, Zhao Renzhai, who was originally working in the imperial dining room vegetable library, asked the famous teachers of the imperial dining room, Sun Shaoran, Wang Yushan, Zhao Chengshou, etc., to set up a "imitation tea house" on the north bank of Beihai Park.
Sitting under the high-scent canopy, facing the sparkling Liquid Soft Waves, looking at the blue sky and the changing white clouds, sipping fragrant tea, and eating delicious dishes specially made by imitation, it is like a fairyland. The refreshments here are extraordinary, the materials are exquisite, the workmanship is exquisite, the small and exquisite, and the style is unique. If the pea yellow is made, it is necessary to use the white peas of the Jingdong Four Eyes Well, and after the peas are boiled, they must be sifted with a basket made of horsetail, so it is very delicate and delicious. Another example is the snack of minced meat, which is carefully roasted with charcoal, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, and fried with minced meat without fishiness or greasiness. I remember a diner said: Cixi dreamed of eating burnt cakes one night, and the next day she saw that there were minced meat cakes wrapped in the morning, thinking that the chef had fulfilled her dream, so she called Zhao Chengshou, who made the burnt cakes, and rewarded her with tail plumes and 20 taels of silver. Minced pork cakes have been famous ever since.
As for Xiaowotou, it is said that when the Eight-Power Alliance invaded Andi Beijing, Cixi fled in a hurry, passing through changping xiguan city, "Lafayette" was hungry, a farmer surnamed Li offered a nest head, Cixi ate very fragrantly, and later let the imperial dining room do the same. This was not a bad thing for the chef, so he had to refine it with fine cornmeal and soybean noodles. Folklore says that the small nest head is made of chestnut noodles, which is actually not true. This anecdote is quite similar to the story of Zhu Yuanzhang's love to eat "pearl emerald white jade soup" played in crosstalk.
I remember that the Fangshan Tea House also made some traditional stir-fry dishes in the palace, and the most impressive ones were "four grasps", "four trials" and "four crisps". The so-called "four grasps" are to catch fried waist flowers, catch fried tenderloin, catch fried fish fillets, and catch fried prawns. This is the specialty dish of Wang Yushan, who was named "The King of Catching Stir-fry" by Cixi. The so-called "four sauces" are fried cucumber sauce, fried carrot sauce, fried hazelnut sauce, and fried pea sauce. The so-called "four crisps" refer to crispy fish, crispy meat, crispy kelp, and crispy chicken. These famous dishes in the palace are finely made, beautiful in color, mellow and light in taste, and are very popular with customers. In addition, such as stewed fat duck, stewed duck tongue, boiled chicken breasts, cherry meat, bells and summer delicious watermelon cup, etc., are also the best dishes of the fangshan tea house, all of which are popular among the population, with good color, aroma, taste and shape.