This article is written by: Spring Plum Fox
Let's talk about the "award ceremony dress" of the Winter Olympics that everyone cares about!
A few words of entrustment at the beginning -
I am not engaged in design, the vision is not advanced, purely from the name of this number "traditional clothing" to talk about some ideas, so it will be more historical, more intangible cultural heritage, more ethnic. After all, high-tech ones don't belong to me, and I can't talk about them. Looking at the source of the material and the network, there may be a misconception caused by unclear reading, and everyone should think that this is a messy divergent little nagging!
Where does "old" come from?
I first went to fish @ Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics official Blog related Weibo below the comments, pure emotions we do not look, some clearly wrote the feelings, or you can try to analyze it. One of them is the "sense of age".
△ Weibo comments
Personally, I think it is mainly the feeling brought about by the style of the hat, which is a more decent-looking hat type, which is actually the popular era. And the hat itself is always a very eye-catching element, look at the following figure, wearing a hat or not is still quite large.
△ Image source: Beijing Institute of Fashion
Designs that retreat from the trend and are not ostentatious in themselves will often be precipitated in the most youthful people in the popular era, that is, many people will see it from their mothers and other elders.
△ An old lady's hat sold on a treasure
Many people may not notice that the hats in the three sets of schemes are not the same, two of which are relatively close in shape, and the other is a design with similar drapes and ear protections, which is much more vivid and playful.
According to the press release, the design of this section has the meaning of absorbing the hood, which shows that the design material is selected for ancient or not, and whether the design product appears old, it has little to do with it.
△ Sun Wen paints dream of the Red Chamber
△ Stills of the 87th edition of "Dream of the Red Chamber"
How to create "things"?
Among the three sets of designs, this set of designs is also the most special, because the hat and clothes are separated, the clothes are made by the team of the Central Academy of Fine Arts, and the hat is He Yang of the Beijing Institute of Fashion. This is probably what makes this set of overall elements the most and looks the most complex. Because the press release also mentioned that this hat is folded from a whole piece of fabric, and the side is decorated with "peony and phoenix pattern disc buckle".
Simple technology achieves rich visual effects and practical functions, and the orderly design method embodies the traditional Chinese concept of sustainability and creation: fewer elements reflect uniqueness and richness.
As far as the concept can be said in the press release, but in fact most traditional hats do not waste much fabric. According to the hat body folding does not waste fabric, the warm hat with a streamer on the back to find, "Kun Qiu" is very suitable, it could also have been called "streamer hat".
△ Kun Qiu
It can also be seen from another hat that it is a splicing method similar to a melon skin hat, which is also the most common way, and there is basically no material loss, and it can also be buckled to the traditional theme.
△ Melon skin cap
Moreover, whether it is splicing or folding, it is obvious that the "problem" will be generated by woven fabrics and the like, if it is a felt hat, it can be made into a special shape, which I believe many friends who play felt will have a better understanding.
For the sake of the topic, take a traditional example - the black felt hat. The grass roots of the black felt hat are stronger than the melon skin hat, because they are not afraid of the sun and rain, so they were once the standard of the working people at the bottom. The boatman who rowed the black canopy boat, wearing a black felt hat, was my deepest memory of Shaoxing when I was a child.
△ Black felt hat
Taking the example of modern working people's clothing, it may step on the tail of some people, after all, fantasizing about ancient aristocrats is what many people just need. It doesn't matter, you can look at the felt hat unearthed in Xinjiang, it is also very fragrant!
△ Felt hats unearthed from the Little River Cemetery
△ Felt hats unearthed from the Loulan site
When is "beauty"?
At present, there are two of the three sets of award ceremony costume hats with a streamer, which I don't quite understand.
If you say that He Yang's folding hat is made of hood, and the hood does have some designs with ties, especially children's hats, and He Yang also made a folding design in the place where the belts intersect (you can turn to the picture inserted in front of you to look at it again), it is targeted.
△ Child hat
The other one seems to be purely a bow, personal feeling is to remove the back of it is not monotonous, I am too stupid, I really did not understand. Looking for the designer's brand press release, many elements have tried to talk about the doorway one by one, but this sense of existence is not low, as if it is a message that seems to be missed, making people more uncomfortable.
△ Image source: Chu and Tingxiang
Although the designer did not expect it, but this kind of hat also has another flower (the designer said that it is a velvet flower), in fact, you may wish to look at some hats in the Liaojin period. The difference is that the vertical belt of the Liaojin period should be a tie and have a function. Some decorative pieces play a role similar to the scarf ring, but they will be cleverly designed to make it both beautiful.
For example, in the tomb of King Qi of Jinqi, a man and a woman have been unearthed, and the men's model has been made into the style of a white jade swan mouth lotus, and the women's model is a golden bamboo knot style, which is very beautiful.
△ The tomb of King Jinqi was excavated
Suppose you abandon the streamer and pick a hat that is both national and traditional and chic and fashionable, and the choice is even greater. I also don't give an example of the need for a "conversion" from antiquities to design works, there are many examples that can be "taken" directly by at least 80% or 90%, such as "Golden Flower Hat: The Iconic Tibetan Hat That Was Born For Only a Hundred Years?" | Introduced in the History of Reading Costumes.
△ Golden flower cap
△ Image source: Little Red Book
It is not that designers must imitate antiquities and folklore objects, but sometimes designers can open up more design ideas if they have seen these. Some roads, thousands of years ago have crossed the forks of the road for you, standing on the shoulders of giants is not comfortable?
The comment area also has a voice of confusion about style, in fact, the Chinese style itself contains ethnic groups, and the Tibetan golden hat does not have much history, but it will not feel "different", because it will be digested and dissolved after being incorporated into a system, and some obviously hard elements will appear out of place.
With a long history and diverse cultures, in fact, it comes together into one sentence, that is, there are endless materials for designers in our country! I don't want to talk about these three sets of patterns, not bad, but a little tired. The target audience may be different, for those who pay more attention to this aspect of information, it is to see Xiangyun again, see "Baoxianghua", and see "Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains"...
In addition to the lack of it, there will be a drawback, as reflected in another comment, people already know enough about these materials, and then there will be higher application requirements.
Where is "art"?
The bouquet's concept of "the Olympic flower that never fades" is still full of likes, but the "bouquet knitted with handmade velvet thread" is a bit surprising to me, and it seems that the picture is made of crochet.
△ Image source: Guanbo
Before "Knitting: Did China Really Miss the History of It?" In short, it is not close enough to Chinese culture, and it is not a futuristic thing, making the sense of belonging a little worse.
For example, although Chinese costume culture is based on silk, many ethnic minorities have intangible cultural heritage that retains felt, and there are many national-level ones. In winter, it looks very warm, and the color transition will be more abundant.
△ Felt flowers
And in "Fake Flowers: Artificial Flowers, Undefeated Spring Wind", it is mentioned that velvet flowers, silk flowers, and grass flowers can all be used. If you can hold out a bouquet of silk flowers just picked from the Tang Dynasty, wouldn't it be more resonant with the years?
△ Silk flowers were unearthed from Tomb 187 of the Astana Tomb Group
△ Velvet flowers
It turned out that this is really an intangible cultural heritage, the Shanghai municipal "Haipai velvet thread weaving technique". The news said that this intangible cultural heritage and the "oriental traditional knot rope technique" combined with the clouds, but turning over the Shanghai intangible cultural heritage network and the books compiled by the inheritors should be the stick needles and crochet needles that everyone knows, those books are the books that my mother read when she was young, and I also read that when I was a child , see "Open the sweater books of the 80s, all of which are not outdated fashion trends| Costume Expo").
Formed in Shanghai in the late Qing Dynasty, the art of Haipai velvet thread weaving is a kind of clothing knotting art that integrates Western crochet knitting and uses the mechanism wool velvet thread in the traditional Chinese folk knot art.
Looking to the future?
Another comment was about "futuristic design".
The Olympic-related push has actually done a lot, if you have read those articles, you will probably know that although the content is often analyzed history and culture, but the view of standing in line with the future in ancient China is throughout. But it is not that the tradition is not good, then try to see the future of such an escape style, but should be based on the recognition of tradition to do the future.
Now you can often see some netizens with pride and resentment, but in fact do not understand the traditional culture, just like "Yuan Shen Yunyi: Don't argue, Chinese and Western styles are not!" That's it. Many times, do yourself well, do yourself truthfully, and many things will come to fruition!
If you bloom, the breeze will come.
Thanks for reading, like please remember to share oh ^_^
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* Other articles by the author *
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