Content Source: blackrain79.com
Compilation: Zhongpu Network (dzpknews.com)
River Circle Bluffing is a trick that many people struggle to deal with, and some players have never even done a scare in River Circle.
This phenomenon is understandable.
Because when it comes to the River Deck, there is not much information you can get, and the pot has become so large that it will make some players panic, so they have never had the courage to make a big bluff in the River Deck, even if they know that it is profitable to do so.
So if you know when you should or shouldn't bluff in the river, you'll have a lot more of an advantage in technology than your opponents.
Before discussing the River Circle Bluffing, let's ask ourselves a basic question: When should you choose to bluff?
The answer to this question is:
Yes and only if you can force your opponent to throw away a stronger card, you should choose to bluff.
The answer is simple, but there's a lot of information worth exploring, like how do you know that your opponent will discard a stronger card because of your bet?
You certainly can't be very sure of this, you can only make a well-founded hypothesis at best.
When you hit the river card circle, the public card has been issued, then there is no need to worry about any more damage to the card power, at that moment you have either completed the card or no card in your hand.
A finishing card can be any force from a pair to a nut card, and all the cards between the two extreme cards of a pair and a nut are a card range, and your actual card strength is closely related to this range.
Because the power of the cards can be very different, so even if it is a card, it will sometimes become a bluff, such as holding 1010 when encountering a 2277A card face, although the TT has a showdown value, but if the pot is already large, sometimes it can be considered to play it as a bluff in the river card.
On the contrary, although some marginal cards are not strong in their own hands, in special situations, betting with such cards may also be playing with value.
When considering the strength of the hand, the most important thing is to consider its relative strength, not its actual power, which is affected by the opponent's hole card, the opponent's range, and the change of the public card.
So when should we choose to bluff in the river? The answer to this question is the same as the one above, which is when you can force your opponent to discard a stronger hand.
But we can't predict the actions of others with complete accuracy, so when we think about the problem, we can't predict whether we can make our opponents do X, Y, or Z.
A better way to think about it would be: If I do, how often will the opponent choose X, Y, or Z? Today's theme is: If I bluff in the river deck, what are the odds of my opponent folding?
Some factors will make the River Circle bluff earn more, but others will make it earn less.
This article will analyze these factors and highlight several common scenarios where bluffing in the river deck can be profitable.
Factor #1: When you have a tight table image
Your table image is an important factor affecting the profitability of your river circle bluffing, and you should only consider whether to bluff if your opponent will respect your bet.
Think about how you performed after you came to the table, did you participate in many hands, did you bet or raise frequently, and did you try to force your opponent out of the pot as soon as you got the opportunity?
Or has it been a long time since you got a good card, a lot of folds, and basically not in the flop?
And what cards were shown during the showdown phase? Have you ever been caught bluffing before? Or have you only played a showdown once and shown a hand of nuts?
How does your opponent perceive your playing style? Have you ever played against them before?
Does your opponent have more yards than you? Or is the amount of code the same as yours? Or are you actually new to the table and they don't know much about you?
If you don't have a history of confrontation, then you can use this to make a profit, and make some big bluffs soon after you get on the table, which is actually good for your image.
When the opponent doesn't get any readings on you, in most cases they will respect your bets, and their caution is good for your bluff.
However, after more times of bluffing, the opponent will definitely notice what is going on, and if you just get a super hand, you can use it to make some more money.
In general, the tighter the image of your table, the higher the success rate of your bluffing, especially at the moment when a big money is entered such as a transfer or river card.
Vice versa, the looser the image of your table, the more cautious you should be when you choose to make a big bluff.
However, if you think that your opponent is very weak and timid, and you are completely afraid to use cards such as A Hi or the third largest pair to call to the end, then even if your image is looser, you can still use a higher frequency to bluff such players.
Just beware of playing too far, and then be prepared for the occasional call to the end, and even if your bluff doesn't work at all, it's good, and if the scare doesn't work, it means that the opponent no longer respects your bet from that moment on.
If this is the case, you can immediately adjust the playing style, tighten the strategy, and once you get a strong card, you will hit the value hard, then your bluff image can help you.
Factor #2: When you can play the fold rate
The so-called fold rate refers to the chance that your opponent will choose to fold after you place a bet.
The success rate of each bet you place is determined by your win rate and the fold rate you play.
For example, if you use nuts to listen to the whole card in the transfer, the winning rate of the card is 17%, but this does not mean that the chance of you winning the pot is only 17%, if you judge the frequency of the opponent's fold to reach 50%, then the success rate must be added to this 50%.
When you add up the two figures, you can tell if you have a lot to earn (for the sake of simplicity, we'll exclude the pot and bet for the time being), and they will also have an impact on a decision whether it belongs to the EV or not.
However, when you choose to bluff at The River, it means that your card itself has a low or no win rate (for example, your listening card has died).
If your hand strength is average, then the opponent is very unlikely to use a card that is worse than you, which is the type of card in your hand that becomes a bluff card, that is, you choose to bet on forcing the opponent to give up the stronger card.
When your cards have no chance of winning in a showdown, you can only rely on the fold rate to judge whether you should choose to bluff in the river.
The higher the fold rate that can be played, the higher the profit of your bluffing, and the lower the fold rate of playing, the more you should consider folding and stop the loss in time.
The image of you at the table mentioned above will greatly affect the fold rate you can play, and the fold rate of people with a loose image will naturally be much lower than that of a tight person.
Therefore, when considering whether the fold rate can be played, of course, it should also be considered together with the image of the table.
However, if you meet that kind of call station type player, then regardless of your image, you are just doing useless work to bluff them.
So, when we choose to bluff in the river, our opponent should be the kind of person who will consider choosing to fold, but even if the opponent has the ability to fold, you should only choose to do this when your bluff is believable.
Bluffing is a kind of performance, and you have to make sure that you can successfully perform a nut card look.
To successfully perform a nut card, you have to think about your previous actions and think about whether you choose to play the same way when you bluff like when you hold a strong card.
If there is any abruptness in your performance, the opponent will not be persuaded and choose to call, and when you are bluffing at the river card, you should also choose a bet that looks like it is playing value.
Factor #3: When your cards have no showdown value
The closer your hand power is to the nut card, the closer your bet is to the value bet, and the closer your hand power is to the junk card, the more your bet is like a bluff bet.
Between the two extreme powers of nuts and garbage, some cards have showdown value and some cards have no showdown value.
Cards with showdown value are the kind of cards that cannot be very clearly defined as value bet cards, but they have a chance to win in the showdown compared to certain cards in the opponent's range, that is, these cards have a general strength, although there is a certain chance of winning the showdown, but if the bet is not paid for by any inferior card type, these cards are more suitable for grabbing and spoofing cards than for betting.
However, if you are holding a card that does not have any showdown value, then you can consider choosing to bluff, because your cards have no chance of winning in the showdown, and the only way you can win the pot is to drive the opponent out of the pot, if you want to kick the opponent away, the premise is of course to be able to play the fold rate, if not, it is better to give up.
In summary, whether we should consider bluffing in the river card circle is mainly determined by the image of your table, whether you can play the fold rate, and whether your cards have showdown value.
After talking about a few factors, let's take a look at the specific situations in which the river card choice bluff is profitable.
Scenario #1: When the opponent does not continue to bet on the hand
For example, if you turn over and call the opponent's opening raise at an unfavorable position, flop you have chosen a card, the opponent c-bet, you call, the transfer card you have chosen, the opponent has also passed the card, and you can consider betting when the river card circle.
At this time, your bet on the river card is actually a tentative bet, which is a kind of bet that you make when the opponent does not choose to bet on the previous street and you are in a disadvantageous position.
That is, this bet can only occur in the transfer or river card, and when you bet in such a situation, many of the cards in your range can be directly profited from this.
If you can often take down these small pots in such cases, the quantitative change will produce qualitative changes, and your profit margin will increase a lot.
We can't always wait until there are nut cards to play, so you should pay close attention to situations like this with a small advantage and try to take every pot, especially if an opponent like the one above has clearly given up a bit.
However, if the opponent bets two streets in a row, then you don't have to think about bluffing, because once the players in the small level game bet two streets in a row, they mostly hold the cards they can't give up, which means that it is difficult for you to play the fold rate.
For example, if the effective code size is 100bb, you get J9 in the BB bit, and the button bit starts with a TAG to 3bb, and you call.
Flop Q105, pot 6.5bb, you cross the cards, the opponent bets 3.5bb, you call.
Turn 2, pot 13.5bb, you pass the card, the opponent passes the card.
River Pai 7, how do you do it?
You should bet 7bb.
Judging from the opponent's actions, he doesn't seem to have much confidence in his own card power, so why don't you consider taking the initiative to try to steal the pool?
We will encounter a lot of situations at the table, if we can grasp it, we will try to win these pots, can we not be happy?
In this example, the opponent starts the BTN position before turning over, you use a hand of speculative cards that are still OK to call, you judge that the opponent's chances of stealing blindness are quite high, so it is reasonable to choose to defend the big blind.
You have two shunting cards in the flop and the opponent makes a standard c-bet.
You can consider a card-raise, but because the opponent is likely to be c-bet with a wide range, and the cards in the hand are well hidden, it is okay to just call, and if you can really hit the card, you may encounter the opponent to take more action.
The transfer didn't help you, and the opponent didn't shoot a second shot.
After the river card is issued, your listening card is completely premature, the card power has no showdown value at all, and your choice is only to pass the card - fold or bluff, compared to the card - fold, bluff is of course a better option.
After the river card comes out, the potential flush card is also formed, but the opponent is extremely unlikely to take the flush, so you can rest assured to play this card.
If the opponent really has a flush card, how can he choose to pass the card instead of firing a second shot to half-bluff?
If the opponent is holding the top pair, how can he not continue to bet on the value of the transfer card and make you pay for the listening card?
The opponent's passing in the transfer is more like giving up the pot, so if you bet on the river card, he should not call with the card power in his hand that can only catch the bluff, especially if the card surface is still flowered.
Of course, opponents may occasionally use 10x cards to catch bluffs, or medium pairs of 99 and 88, but this frequency is not so frequent that you will not be able to earn any money for the bluffing of your river cards.
Situation #2: When you have a chance to fire three shots
The bluffing of the River Deck is that your action line describes a coherent and convincing story, and a person's actions throughout the game are also one of the most valuable references for us to judge whether he is bluffing or not.
Of course, the premise is that the opponent has to pay attention to your "story", many low-level players will not pay attention to these details, so do not overestimate the "viewing ability" of these opponents.
But if an opponent has the ability to do some interpretation...
If you decide to bluff, you can't just think of one play is one play, don't just think that the opponent is weak and bluff.
Although the opponent is weak, if your story does not make sense, he may also see the catty.
Therefore, it is best not to complicate things, even when it comes to bluffing, you should keep in mind that your purpose is to play a strong hand, and the three-street bet reveals a very strong card power.
If the deck becomes more street-to-street horror, then you can consider placing maximum pressure on your opponent by placing consecutive flops, turns, and river cards.
However, when doing so, beware of some potential listening cards on the card surface, and if there is a listening card, you should be more cautious.
If the cards are not successful, it is likely that a large proportion of the opponent's range is dead or the cards of average strength, and these cards cannot withstand the three-street bet.
Of course, the opponent may also be slow-moving, so you have to be wary of this when you shoot three shots.
This is also the type of opponent mentioned earlier, as well as your own table image, which will affect our decision-making.
Let me give you an example.
The effective yardage is 100bb, you start with A3 in the SB bit to add 3bb, the big blind bit is called, he plays tight and fierce.
Pot 6bb, flop J42, you bet 4bb, opponent call.
Turn 8, pot 14bb, you bet 7bb, opponent call.
River Pai K, how do you do it?
You should bet 14bb.
This situation is more suitable for three-street bluffing, why say so? Let's analyze the actions of the whole game.
Before turning over, you start the game with a good speculative hand, and the opponent is just calling in the big blind position.
Because the opponent is calling, then his range is capped, which means that JJ+ cards are not in this range, AK or AQ is estimated to be not in this range, if it is these cards, then he should be 3-bet before turning, not just choose to call.
There are 13 cards in the flop, and the opponent will most likely not use 63 cards to call before the flip, so he should not have the barrier card for you to listen.
Opponents may take 65, but these combinations make up a small part of his entire range.
Flop After you place a bet on an opponent's call, his call range can be reduced to Jx, two highs or included flush cards, part A (though you already have an A), and part pocket pair (88-TT).
The transfer card does not help the range of both of you, you continue to half-bluff after the opponent is still just a call, this call range can be narrowed down a little, which means that he can not hold the dark three, if it is dark three, he will definitely raise the bet, and some of the flush cards in his call range, such as QT, T9 or Q9 these cards, then develop into a real listening card, if the range is expanded a little, it may also include T7.
Your hand power doesn't increase at all when the river card is issued, and the opponent's card strength is unlikely to increase, except for KJ, but again, this combination only takes up a small part of the opponent's range.
The A Hi in your hand has some showdown value, but it's not enough to use for passing the card-call to catch bluff, so you only have two options, either pass-the-fold (which is the least stressful) or shoot a third shot to bluff, which is more valuable than the first option for two reasons.
1: The River card does not contribute to any listening cards, and a large part of the opponent's range is a few premature listening cards.
2: The River card is a thriller card, and if the opponent is Jx, it is difficult for him to follow.
In addition, your story is more convincing, because your range is unapproached throughout the hand, and this range contains combinations of AA, KK, JJ or KJ in minutes.
If the opponent is not brave enough to use the second largest pair and the third largest pair to call to the end, then let alone use A Hi to call.
Of course, we can't judge the range of the opponent very accurately, all you can do is estimate, and you won't estimate correctly every time, but you don't have to be accurate every time, as long as the number of estimates is correct more than the number of wrong times.
Scenario #3: When the opponent doesn't fire three shots in a row
The last case is when the opponent does not continue to bet in the river card circle, which mostly happens when the river card has contributed to some kind of listening card, at which time you can play this card.
Many regular players already know how not only to play fiercely with a strong finishing card after turning, but also to mix some scare cards into the range.
These people usually play the flop c-bet and shoot a second shot at the turn, but many don't have the courage to continue firing a shot at the river card, especially when the river card issues a thriller card.
For example, if you listen to Shunzi in a favorable position, but the river card does not win, but the river card appears with the same flower, if the opponent passes the card, you can try to play the same hand.
The opponent is betting on the flop, betting on the turn, but the river card is over, which shows that he does not like the river card, then in this case you can use the card face to steal the pool.
@Conclusion @
It's not easy to get the timing of the bluffing in the river card correctly, and it's easy to lose a night of hard-won money if you're not careful.
That's why the bluffing techniques of river card circles are advanced techniques.
Although today's article cannot guarantee that every time you bluff in the river card circle will be successful, if you can consider the suggestions made in the above content when bluffing, I believe that the success rate of everyone in the river card circle will be improved in the future.
Well, that's it, thanks for reading, and good luck at the poker table!