▲ Changting betel nut taro, do you want to come to a piece? Photography / Liu Yanhui
-Fengwujun Language-
Who are the freshest Fujian people?
To say that Fujian's first net red city, naturally is Xiamen, good greening, good environment, minnan taste sticks. But Xiamen people always like to go to Longyan to eat.
In Longyan, sweet potatoes and taro can be used as bun skins, chickens can "fly", rice wine can be used as cola, and even an ordinary breakfast can "eat a cow".
▲ Longyan taro bun, the skin is made of sweet potato and taro. Photography / Lola
Longyan, which is crossed by the southern section of the Wuyi Mountains, has given birth to the three most important rivers in Fujian: the Minjiang, Jiulongjiang and Tingjiang, with nearly 80% of the forest coverage, so that every Longyan delicacy is inseparable from the gift of green mountains and green waters.
▲ Longyan Yongding Chuxi Terraces, green mountains and green waters have bred the delicious taste of Longyan. Photography / Feng Mubo
More importantly, this is the hakka ancestral land, the "Hakka capital" Changting, just in Longyan. What makes Longyan cuisine the first "fresh" in Fujian is the industrious and intelligent Hakka.
Hakka cuisine is a slow and long-winding minor tone, fresh and not light, simple but not simple.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Hakka meat eating prize, how luxurious? </h1>
Relying on the mountain to eat the mountain is the true color of the taste of Longyan. Pigs, cows, chickens and ducks climbed the mountains and walked through the forest, breathing in the freshest air, and each one was healthy and fat, and the Hakka people were raised into standard carnivores.
Let's just say that this breakfast can "eat a cow" with one serving.
▲ Nine doors head, it looks very solid. Photo: Breakfast China
This is the "nine door heads" of Longyan Liancheng: beef tongue yellow, beef heart, beef liver, beef loin, beef leaflet, beef tenderloin, beef mud belly, thick belly skirt, honeycomb belly and other nine parts of the cow, which are boiled in "Red Army Coke" Hakka rice wine, and finally poured with ginger shredded fried in advance with rice wine. It is crisp and delicious to eat, and the taste of ginger, wine, and beef is integrated, and every diver is not to be missed
▲ Beef soup to start the day. Photography / Lola
The day of the Longyan people starts more often than not with a bowl of steaming beef soup. "Pocket" means "end" in Hakka, and "pocket soup", that is, soup to drink. The most important secret of beef soup is to sprinkle the sweet potato powder on the beef before the pan and squeeze the beef thoroughly with your hands until the sweet potato powder is deeply stained into the beef fiber.
Such a "massage", the beef is wrapped in a layer of crystal clear "clothes", become q full, pepper aroma to the original thick soup more warm, chew the smooth and tender beef, coupled with a spoonful of slightly spicy and spicy soup base, all day, the heart is hot.
▲ Hakka beef offal soup, breakfast to eat ~ photo / "Breakfast China"
Beef offal soup is available in many places, but Longyan's beef offal soup has its own unique flavor: in addition to the common beef intestines, beef blinds, as well as the tendon beef front leg meat and crispy tendon meat, it is also accompanied by fresh and sweet white radish, which neutralizes the greasy meat. When the juice-filled radish meets the meaty beef offal, it is "golden wind and jade dew meet", you who do not like to eat the water will also be conquered by this perfect combination, if you are not satisfied, you can even add a lard to mix noodles!
▲ Tender and bouncy soaked pork loin. Photography / Lola
But when it comes to novelty, I have to mention the long Ting soaked pork loin, the big red waist, sliced with a very fine knife, the same with the ground melon powder to grab a few times, and then put the pork loin into the pot "汆" for a while to fish up, and finally the essence of this bubble, it is necessary to invite Hakka rice wine to appear - the cooked pork loin into the warm and sweet Hakka rice wine, and finally add sesame oil, the pork loin is fragrant and not awake, refreshing and crisp, a mouthful, full of intoxication.
It was hard to finish breakfast, and the meal was still meat! Changting's famous river field chicken is shining slightly oily, waiting for diners to come. Hetian chicken is produced in Hetian Township, and cockfighting was also popular in the Ming Dynasty for a period. Kawada chickens were also sent to Kyoto, often winning, and were known as the heroes of cockfighting.
▲ Dry steamed river chicken. Photography / Liu Yanhui
There are many ways to make Hetian chicken, but the Hakka people's favorite is still white chopped chicken: boiled in clean water, ice water is still cold, and finally brushed with sesame oil, you can serve. Such a plain-faced chicken, never rely on the sauce to outline the thick makeup, but with the natural beauty of the skin smooth meat, tender and delicious to win, worthy of the "flying chicken on the tip of the tongue".
After eating chicken, you can't miss the duck ~ Liancheng Egret Duck, known as "Duck Chinese Essence", according to legend, the duck species was originally a group of egrets that migrated south, mating with local ducks in Liancheng, and selected this treasure. Egret duck is the only medicinal duck in China, with a whole stewed soup, seasoned with only salt, without putting ginger and any condiments, not only the meat is tender, the soup taste is particularly not greasy and not fishy, clear and pleasant.
▲ Longyan bubble duck palm. Photography/Good Photography Innocence, Photo/MarketMap Network
After eating the meal, you may wish to end with pickled duck claws, after the white and bright duck paws are selected, cooked and fished out into ice water, chilled for two quarters of an hour, and then into the brine to "cultivate" for a few days, the same taste is light, as if the temperament of Longyan, a forest city, does not compete, quietly blooms.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > fancy snack, how exquisite is the Hakka taste? </h1>
In Longyan people's childhood memories, there is always a sentence: "Eat so much snacks, wait or not to eat!" "In this mountain town, if you steal a snack, you can eat it all.
A hollow fried cake "Lantern Cake", is a good idea for the Hakka to improve greasy food; the attempt to make beef into flexible Q bullet beef balls inspired the later famous Chaozhou beef balls, not to mention Changting dried tofu, Liancheng dried sweet potato, Wuping dried pork bile... This shows the Hakka ingenuity of the "Eight Great Cadres of Western Fujian".
▲ Guess what, which one is dried pig bile? Figure/sohu.com
Bada Gan is a representative of snacks in longyan area, and the most peculiar is the Wuping dried pork bile. Select the fresh dark brown "glutinous rice pork liver", remove the pig bile, soak the whole in a certain concentration of salt water, add the appropriate five-spice powder, sorghum wine, star anise and other ingredients, wait for the bile to penetrate the liver, fish out and hang, every 2-3 days to reshape. When eating, just steam it, rub it with a layer of sesame oil while it is hot, cut it into thin slices and mix it with a little garlic flakes after cold, it will be full of aroma, which can be used as a side dish or as a snack.
Lantern cake is longyan's most classic fried snack. "Lantern cake, slippery round, want to eat, and have no money." This nursery rhyme, which is well known in Longyan Road, is about the desire of ordinary people for this small lantern cake in the era of food scarcity.
▲ Lantern cake. Photography / Liu Yanhui
The rice and soybeans are ground into a thick paste, fine salt and green onion are added, spooned into a special round spoon and immersed in a pot of boiling oil. Rice milk rapidly expands into a spherical shape in boiling oil, resembling two old-fashioned lamps that coincide together, so it is called "lamp cake".
Unlike the version next door in Wenzhou, Zhejiang Province, with shredded radish and meat filling, the lantern cake here can also be fillingless, and the freshly fried lantern cake is golden throughout, the entrance is crisp, and every bite is overflowing with gravy. For many Longyan people, lantern cake is not only a kind of food, but also the hope of the old age, and the kind of happiness and satisfaction that even if it is hot and jumps, it is eager to stuff it into its mouth.
Hakka 丨What brewing!
For the Longyan people, whose main body is Hakka, "brewing" is their authentic daily life.
▲ Stuffed tofu, there is a big position of dumplings. Photography/Ear Dust
The Hakka word for "brewing" means stuffing something else into a raw material. It is said that the Hakka people who migrated from the Central Plains missed the dumplings in their hometown, but they were bitter that the Lingnan region did not grow wheat and could not make the dough of the dumplings, so they took local ingredients and used different raw materials instead of the dumpling dough to wrap the filling. The fragrance of different raw materials combined with the deliciousness of the meat filling collides with different sparks.
For example, "stuffed tofu", that is, "tofu with meat filling". Tofu is made from natural mountain spring water, dig a small hole in the middle of each piece of tofu, stuff the filling made of minced pork, shiitake mushrooms, green onions and garlic and other raw materials, then fry the tofu in a frying pan until golden brown on both sides, then boil it in water for a few minutes, season with green onions, and then come out of the pot.
▲ Stuffed tofu can be filled with a lot of fillings. Photography /innesslam, Photo/Figureworm Creative
In one bite, the rich filling and tender tofu melt together, the delicious juice sways in the mouth, and the silence of the tofu is swept away, enough to awaken all taste senses.
"Stuffed bitter melon" is to first cut the green bitter melon into small pieces, hollow out the seeds and seeds with a spoon, chop the pork into the filling, add salt and soy sauce together to taste, fill in the bitter melon segments one by one, and then stir-fry in the pot on high heat, supplemented by ingredients into the flavor, and finally steamed with soybean soup. When tender pork meets refreshing bitter melon, it is Tanlang Xie Nu, who achieves each other and brings people unparalleled taste enjoyment.
▲ Hakka brewed three treasures, the stuffed bitter melon inside can be delicious ~ figure / market map network
A seemingly simple brewed bitter melon, from the selection of bitter melon to the exquisite filling, every level must be taken seriously. Maybe outsiders can't tell, but after trying the tongue of the Longyan people who grew up in the umami taste, they know whether it is in place.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > powdered potatoes, such a staple food please come and play a dozen! </h1>
Eating flowers is only the standard of Hakka, and if you don't come to a wonderful Hakka staple food in western Fujian, how can you be sure in your heart?
▲ Changting pancakes. Photography / Liu Yanhui
"No mountain, no guests live in the mountains, sweet potatoes and taro half a year's grain." The harsh conditions in the mountains of western Fujian could not stop the wisdom of the Hakka people who migrated here, there was not enough rice, the Hakka developed: dried sweet potatoes, sweet potato leaves, sweet potato powder, taro dumplings, pancakes... Here, sweet potato and taro lovers are a paradise!
Cute love longyan taro bun, taro skin, is its soul. The outer skin needs to be mixed with sweet potato powder by hand and beaten repeatedly. Add pork, dried bamboo shoots, eye fish, shiitake mushrooms to the skin, sprinkle with fried shallots and pepper and steam. Take a bite out of the heat, the soft and smooth taro skin of the brushed taste is addictive, and the aroma of pork, dried bamboo shoots and other ingredients mixed with it is overwhelming, which is definitely a sin staple food that makes the taro mud control bend their waists and eat five evil staple foods that are too little in one go.
▲ Longyan taro bun, the skin is made of taro sweet potato. Photography / Lola
The "rice dumplings" made of rice milk or rice flour are the nostalgia of the Hakka people. Longyan dustpan, probably a relative of the intestinal powder, the older the refined rice, the better, need to soak in advance for one night, so that the milled rice milk is more delicate, and the steamed skin is more tender. The syrup can not be too thin or too thick, be sure to shake the syrup on the dustpan, add beans, cabbage, eggplant, dried bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, pork, etc. to the filling, and finally to pour golden green onion heads on the basket, it is done.
▲ Dragon Rock Dustpan, like intestinal powder? Photography / Lola
Freshly baked dustpans, you can see the translucent skin is semi-soaked with colorful fillings and juices, the first bite can feel the perfect combination of mushrooms, cabbage, pork crisp and tender skin, in a layer of green onion oil, refreshingly burst out in the taste buds. Many people also like to send more than two dustpans into their mouths in one go, enjoy this full filling and full of fragrance, how to love it is not too much!
Longyan clear soup powder is also a must-have staple food of Longyan. It sounds plain to the sky, nothing more than a clear soup with powder, but this soup is made of pork skull, barrel bone, salt flavored water slow simmered for a few hours, light and thick.
▲ Clear soup powder, Longyan's most nostalgic hometown food. Photography / Lola
Powder is generally divided into coarse powder, fine powder two kinds, the most distinctive is Longyan local self-produced Suban rice noodles, this rice noodles use Fujian high-quality rice as the main raw material, the texture is very tough, slightly cooked and cooked, and finally accompanied by fried meat, meat skin, bean sprouts, leeks, greens embellished. Such a bowl of clear soup powder with a strong texture and a strong soup flavor has become the first memory of most Longyan people's "most nostalgic hometown food".
Clear soup powder can be a snack, in advance when eating meat, the stomach is cushioned; clear soup powder can also be a meal, a mouthful of powder, drink a mouthful of soup, the days flow so plainly. The last thing people miss most may be this bowl of not gorgeous but fresh powder in their hometown, like the industrious and simple Hakka themselves, in the homeland that does not belong to themselves, but still simple and pure, always treat people with the most sincere side.
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Wen 丨 Lola
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