Tianyuan three steaming is small and famous, generally refers to steamed meat, steamed fish, steamed vegetables.
In fact, we also have three steamings in Jingshan, which is even more delicious. So what are the three types of Jingshan Sansheng? See the breakdown below:
1. Steamed eel
Steamed vegetables can be roughly divided into three categories: steaming, steaming, and cannon steaming. The so-called steaming is not mixed with rice noodles. Steamed eels look like pimps, and the Jingshan people call them "pimp eels".
The "pimp eel" at a restaurant in Yongxing Town is well done. In the early 1980s, Wang Dianfang, a native of Yongxing Meihua Village, opened a "plum blossom restaurant" on the street, which was famous throughout the county for its unique characteristics of steamed pimp eels.
At that time, I went to this restaurant to eat, and I saw that the eel was not a plate, but a bowl. Opening the buckle bowl, a piece of eel fillet about 15 cm long is stacked like a leather strip in a parabolic pile, golden in color and fragrant. The eels fall on the tip of their tongues, tender and smooth, soft and palatable, and a hint of garlic floats in between. The "pimps" were finished, and what was left was half a bowl of garlic seeds, like crystal white lotus seeds swaying in the lard soup. Scoop a spoonful and melt in the mouth, which is both the freshness of eels and the sweetness of garlic, which is more delicious than eels.
Guests rushed to scoop, and some did not even eat eels to eat garlic. A bowl of leather eels is sold out in an instant, which is endlessly evocative. However, I found that these eels were not large, the pimps were no more than an inch wide, and they were obviously small eels. I said, "Lao Wang, it's delicious to eat, but the eel is too small." Only to see Lao Wang laughed: "Old Zeng, this is your foreign plate, 'whip rod eel horseshoe turtle', the bigger the meat, the thicker the meat, the lighter the taste." When the official is not afraid of big, this eel is still not big or small. ”
Although Master Wang can speak the Tao, the master chef is his wife. I didn't expect that this short, chubby peasant daughter-in-law with white skin and fine flesh could cook such a delicious taste, there must be some trick. At that time, there was no detailed investigation, and it was estimated that people would not divulge secrets. After a long time, I mixed with Master Wang without saying anything, and finally found out the original situation and knew the process flow:
First, the eel that has been rinsed with clean water can no longer be dipped in water after the belly is broken and boned, and it is immediately mixed with condiments to buckle the bowl and put into the steamer, because the fresh smell is mainly in the blood of the eel and the slimy saliva.
Second, steam until eight ripe, take out, put about half a kilogram of garlic in each bowl on the bottom, return to the basket and steam. This is the key one, the pungency of garlic can remove the fishy smell of eel, in the high temperature of each other penetrate, you have me, I have you, the five flavors are harmonious, the fragrance is overflowing.
Third, when serving, open the button bowl, drizzle with half a spoonful of piping hot lard, "squeak" "pour oil on the fire", oil into the meat, can not be soft as silk wool, smooth as gelatin?
Boss Wang's pimp eels became famous. At that time, the wind of eating and drinking had quietly risen, and every night, cadres large and small in the county and surrounding townships came to visit. There are several cars parked in front of the door, the lights in the restaurant are brilliant, the cups are changed, the drunken moon is drunk, the five drinks are six, and the noise is late at night.
"Leather eel" is indeed a "steamed" delicacy in Jingshan.
2. Steamed turtles
Since ancient times, Jingshan has said that "the turtle king is not on the main seat", which means that wearing a green hat cannot be on the table. But most people in Jingshan do not reject this delicacy, they can't eat it at the banquet, and it is not forbidden to taste it at a family banquet.
Jingshan's foot fish are most famous for Laoliuhe Village, not the turtle farming frenzy set off in the 1990s, and the fame of "100 million yuan village". Since ancient times, lao liuhe has been famous for its abundant foot fish and cooking masters.
People here have a way of burning foot fish. It was killed alive, retaining the umami taste of turtle blood. Cut into sixteen pieces with three horizontal knives and three vertical knives, and then return to the code, covered with turtle shells, cushioned with garlic seeds, and surrounded by a circle of turtle eggs.
After steaming, uncover the button bowl, pour lard on the ground, sprinkle a few shredded red carrots and leeks on the noodles. The footfish on the plate "return" into a whole, with their heads cocked, such as "Golden Toad Looking at the Moon"; surrounded by several fleshy red turtle eggs, and also like "turtle and shrew huaizhu", like a plate of exquisite crafts, good looking and delicious.
In the 1990s after the reform and opening up, Laoliuhe Village became a large turtle town in the province by relying on special aquaculture, and those who visited and learned from other places flocked to Yongxing, such as the Cultural Revolution, people came and went, and Yongxing began to prosper.
At this time, a laid-off worker nicknamed "Ding Mazi" decided to introduce the foot fish cuisine that had been silent for more than a hundred years but surged in the folk undercurrent to the market in the embarrassment, and opened a "Ding Mazi Restaurant", specializing in steamed turtles and turtle hot pots. For a while, diners gathered, the door was like a market, the reputation was great, and it made a lot of money.
Today's Jingshan, not only the turtle and turtle in the restaurant have become high-consumption delicacies, but also the main table of the wedding and funeral banquet.
3. Steamed pork with tiger skin
Speaking of steamed meat, I don't have a good impression in my childhood memories, a bite full of oil, nausea and nausea. However, in the 1980s and 1990s, the tiger skin steamed meat of the Jingshan Guest House was appetizing, different, unique and flavorful, and people praised it, and I also admired the five bodies thrown to the ground, and I no longer hated steamed meat.
The "chunk" of the steamed meat of the guest house is not large, about two inches long, more than one inch wide, shaped like a crescent moon, the color is like tiger skin, the fat meat is crystal clear, the lean meat is like mud, it seems to be shiny and shiny, the mouth is not sticky and not greasy, the tip of the tongue is raw and umami, and the fragrance is fragrant. How can a restaurant's steamed meat be on its back!
Why is the steamed pork in tiger skin at the guest house so delicious? According to insiders, the chef was the third uncle of the great scholar Nie Cyan crossbow from Jingshan, that is, the apprentice of the famous chef Nie Hanzhou. Nie Hanzhou's steamed meat was well-known before liberation, and to find out the origin of tiger skin steamed meat, we must first understand Nie Cyan's family lineage.
Nie's ancestral home is Taojiawan in Guanyinyan Village, Yongxing Town. In the middle and late Qing Dynasty, his ancestors were apprentices at the pawnshop "Jinchun" at the west gate of Jingshan County, and in his later years he opened a pawnshop himself. In Nie's great-grandfather, the pawnshop business became increasingly prosperous, so he bought land in his hometown guanyin rock and built a house. Nie's grandfather and father were all readers, and his grandfather Nie Dalai had been reading the scriptures since he was a child, and during the Xianfeng years, he made up for the tribute and married the daughter of Zeng Xiande of Sanpin.
After the death of Nie Cyan's great-grandfather, the brothers separated their families, their financial resources were scattered, and the family road began to fall. Nie Dalai was given a three-square-four brick and tile house in the county seat and some houses and fields in Guanyinyan's hometown. Nie Dalai had four sons: Pingzhou, Xingzhou, Hanzhou, and Yuzhou, and Pingzhou was Nie's father. After the death of Nie Dalai and his wife, the burden of life fell on the shoulders of the elder Ping Zhou, but he was not good at management and lived by selling fields. Soon, the brothers divided their families, and in addition to the fields, Pingzhou and Xingzhou were divided into street houses in the city; Han Zhou and Yuzhou were divided into Guanyinyan old houses. After the separation of the family, the third and fourth elders farmed in the countryside, and the family road quickly declined. In desperation, Han Zhou became a cook, did not expect this financial layman, Nie Laosan, who farmed the field and foreign plates, became a famous chef in Jingshan Dongxiang, and the steamed meat with tiger skin was his unique skill.
Han Zhou also learned from his teachers as a cook, but according to traditional craftsmanship, his skills were mediocre. The tamales are long and large, like shoe boards, pale in color, and unpopular with a bite of oil. Only because I met a high-ranking person and improved my cooking skills, I made tiger skin steamed meat.
In the early years of the Republic of China, Guanyin Yan came to a monk, and because of his arbitrariness, he became an elder within a few years. This person was originally a skilled chef in Zhejiang, who fled thousands of miles to change his name and become a monk because of the murder case. Whenever the temple did a large "ritual", the elder invited Han Zhou to do the fasting table, and after a long time, he became acquainted.
This person, who was originally a wine and meat disciple who had no meat and did not eat, could not stand the pure rule that meat could not be eaten in the temple, and really could not hold back, so he secretly went down the mountain at night and asked Han Zhou to make two meat dishes, and the two of them drank until late at night. He especially loves to eat steamed meat, but he thinks that Han Zhou's steamed meat is not delicious, so he said to Han Zhou, "I will tell you to make tiger skin steamed meat."
Han Zhou did not know what tiger skin was, and he taught a few tricks, namely, "the color is like amber, the oil is not greasy, the mouth melts, and the aroma is overflowing." ", in particular, the following:
1. First beat the pork belly evenly with a wooden stick, so that the fat lean meat is loose and not separated.
2: Mix the meat with rice noodles, steam until six ripe, take it out, and pour out the oil oozing from the bowl to avoid greasy oil. You can also use steamed vegetables to "press the table", preferably artemisia and lotus, followed by red amaranth and pumpkin.
3: Mix with special sweet sauce, old wine and other spices, add ginger and onion garlic, return to the basket and steam. The meat steamed in this way, the skin is red and yellow, the fat is like gelatin, the lean meat is like walnuts, the entrance is soft, refreshing but not greasy, and the fragrance between the teeth remains.
He also taught the technique of drying sweet sauce, and Futian used peas and wheat mixed with flour to make fermentation and bask in eighty suns. So Han Zhou followed the master's instructions, changed the local seed sauce to self-drying sweet sauce, and mixed it with the unmixed "Head Wine" and "Yangxi Morning" rice noodles from the famous wine shop Cao Wu Street. Due to the strict selection of materials and fine craftsmanship, the tiger skin steamed meat that everyone loves to eat was made, and everyone complimented it as Nie's steamed meat, and Han Zhou became a famous chef in Dongxiang. Since then, tiger skin steamed meat has become popular in Beijing, making those "carnivores" feast. (Zeng Fanyi)