Zhongjia Old Burning House is located in Shuanglin Group 7 (now part of Qiangong Community, Shiling Street), covering an area of about 40 acres and more than 40 villagers. Originally, it was all the Zhong family, famous for brewing shochu, and there was a saying that "there was an old shochu house first, and then there was a West River Field". At present, there are also place names such as Zhujia Burnt House, ZhongJia Burnt House, and Lin Family Burnt House. Among them, the Zhong family, the Zhu family, and the Lin family each have two burning houses, indicating that the toasting technology has a certain threshold and is not popular.
First there are old burnhouses, and then there is the West River Field
The Hakka people initially produced liquor, mainly to meet the needs of sacrifice, drinking, selling, making white vinegar, etc., and worshiping gods and living were not wrong. The traditional roast house uses the corn produced in Dongshan as the main raw material, some with sorghum, the amount of wine produced is large, the degree is high, the quality is better, and the response is good after the sale in Chengdu, which is collectively known as "Dongshan shochu" by Chengdu people, so in addition to their own use and nearby sales, the burning houses in the entire Dongshan area have expanded their output and shipped to Chengdu Zidong Street for trading, and the place of origin is commonly known as the more elegant "Dongshan Shochu".
The burning house and the old house or compound are not together, which is determined by the brewing process. Home steamed wine is winter steamed mash, also known as "sweet wine", which can actually be made all year round. First soak the glutinous rice in cold water for 8 to 10 hours, filter it dry, pour it into a wooden (bamboo) steamer basket and steam it, pour the glutinous rice into the dustpan with a little water and use chopsticks to disperse, cool enough to feel that the hand does not feel hot, sprinkle the wine koji powder and evenly, pour it into the clay pot (altar), make a small nest (commonly known as "digging a well") in it, and then pour a small amount of reconciled koji powder water to cover the lid and seal, wrap it in cotton wool and grain grass to keep the fermentation, and after a few days it will become mash. To make mash, we must master the number of koji and fermentation time, too much koji or fermentation time is too long, the wine taste will be strong, such mash is very "intoxicating", but the alcohol content is very low. Some link in the middle is improperly operated, and the mash is sour, and it fails.
The area of the burning house is much larger than that of the family kitchen, because raw materials such as corn are fermented in advance, then steamed, and the principle of low boiling point of alcohol is used to separate alcohol from the grain. The grain that has been roasted is called sake lees and has a strong taste, which is why the burning house is usually far away from the house. The lees were piled aside and could be used to feed pigs and poultry, and the Hakka people found that they were selling wine with grain, and they had already begun to make money, and they also earned a batch of lees as feed, and they were very willing to engage in this industry.
In the process of winemaking, farmers found that the starch of grain in the lees was reduced and converted into wine, so they called wine "grain essence". Drinkers often use whether the taste is dull or not, whether there is a water smell to describe the quality of shochu. And a large number of people who buy shochu, in order to identify the quality of Dongshan shochu, summarize a variety of methods of testing wine: a look at the pile of flowers, a spoon made of gourds, scoop up a scoop and then pour into the wine tank, if the small bubbles are piled up and scattered quickly, it means that it is good wine; second, look at the old color, scoop a bowl of wine in a good place, use grain grass to dip a drop of vegetable oil into the wine, if the vegetable oil sinks to the bottom, it means that the wine is lighter than the oil, the purity is high (about 60 degrees); three look at the fire needle, soak the wine with a burning twister, light it, and burn the wine inside after it is burned dry. If you order a twister, you can still ignite, which is the best composition of the wine (more than 60 degrees, very little moisture).
"Fight the guys" and drink "turn the wine"
Shochu is used for many purposes, and for the Hakka people who "preach ceremonies", it is a necessity of life, first of all, to satisfy the use of sacrifice. Luo Zhenyu examined in the "Compilation of Yin FictionAlth Characters", "The character of the wine contained in the Bu Ci is the name of the sacrifice. Archaeologists cooked wine and recommended the ancestral temple, and then the Tianzi and the courtiers drank from the dynasty. The Hakka people adhere to the "Family Ritual", and every year they hold "steaming tasting meetings" and New Year's Day, and they must use wine to sacrifice ancestors in graves and ancestral halls (or hall houses). When holding the ceremony, the common sayings of the master are" "There is wine in the bottle, open the cup to honor the offering, believe in the future, the wine is poured first, the second offering, the third offering is the wine that gets off the car, the cup that gets off the horse is dropped, the wine is poured into the three offerings, and the gift is not repeated." ”
The second is to satisfy the Hakka custom of good drinking. Whenever the economy allows, people always find various reasons to drink. Some reasons are required and should be prepared in advance. For example, during the New Year's Festival, worshiping teachers, and opening (work), drinking alcohol at these times is to obey and observe etiquette. The second is high-intensity labor, to comfort the laborers, to ensure that the laborers are physically and mentally happy and work seriously, such as the Dongshan Hakka people most valued rice planting, it is necessary to run a rich "planting wine", "xue rice wine" and "threshing wine", the master buys leaf tobacco, soju wine, cut fat meat, kills cocks, treats the workers warmly, and runs a rich banquet. During the work period, workers eat five meals a day, and they have to "hit the platform" in the morning and afternoon. The "Tatsudai" are all pancakes, rice dumplings, steamed buns and tea, and are sent to Tanabe by the hostess at half-noon (11:00 a.m.) and half-afternoon (5:00 p.m.). Drink a little wine at lunch, drink all the wine at dinner, and take a drunken break. This is a very old folk custom, and the Ming Shu King's poem "Suburban Journey" describes this scene:
Outside the cold smoke of the ancient wood, the fishing song shines on the side,
The sunset is shining, and the shadow of the pigeon is dancing.
Late rice is like a cloud ripe, maple forest is like a brocade,
The farmer harvests and drinks for many years.
Relatives, friends, and neighbors should drink alcohol when congratulating each other on good deeds, such as wedding banquets, birthday banquets for the elderly, "three dynasties wine", "full moon wine" and "hundred day banquet" for children, and people may be invited to drink. Then after the completion of the house, neighbors and relatives must come to congratulate, and the owner must be "garden house wine" reception. The big meal that people eat more is called "eating nine bucket bowls", because there is already "nine", so I will not say "wine" alone, but the theme is still drinking. When there are few people, they cook their own food and make home-cooked dishes and wine.
Traditional society ordinary families drink, mostly with rice bowls instead, a bowl of wine a table people turn to drink, small hotels on the street also use bowls, but the bowl is smaller and more frank, is a semi-black brown soil glaze steamed (meat) bowl, usually a bowl of 2 or two wine. The wine jug containing wine is a glazed round flat belly with a mouth and handle of clay pottery products, and the other is a round belly, a thin mouth, and a tin product with a handle. There are often two fine porcelain altars in the home to store wine (also used as mash), and tin wine pots and porcelain altars are mostly dowries for women. Middle-aged and elderly farmers are good at drinking, usually, if the alcohol addiction is committed, but because the family is poor, there are many people who sell grain and wine. Some people take advantage of the opportunity to go to the small wine stalls in the streets and alleys to drink "heel fighting wine" (the seller of zero liquor uses a bamboo to beat the wine, pouring it into the bowl is like planting and fighting) to enjoy it. Some friends and four friends go to the shop or small restaurant (fly restaurant) "fight the flat guy" to drink "turn the wine" (drinking bowls, one person drank in turn to pass on), the appetizers are mostly fried beans, peanuts, peas, oil cakes, twist flowers, dried tofu, etc., occasionally cut on a plate of brine pig's head, pork liver and other cheap meat dishes, commonly known as "cold cup". "Fighting the gang" is not settling accounts after eating, but everyone rushing to pay, and the "don" collects money in turn, relatively "average" burden, and breaks up after drinking.
Household vinegar does not send people, send people do not sour
In addition to drinking shochu, it is necessary to do what one can and cherish the body and money, but also to talk about wine tasting virtues. The Hakka's "Guangdong Children's Song" has a "Persuasion merchant", which includes "Mo abuses alcohol, mo gambles, accumulate more money to do housework." As the saying goes, "Quit smoking and limit alcohol, there are few diseases." Once drunk and out of shape, or even fighting, will be severely punished by the clan, such as the Liu Clan Genealogy in the precepts: There are drunken people who have trouble, who the inner chamber, and the staff is forty. ”
In addition to sacrifice, drinking, and selling shochu, there are also wonderful uses in normal times, that is, wine vinegar is not divided into families, and home vinegar is made. Hakka people like to eat jealousy, as the saying goes, "Salty Lake Guangdong, Tan Jiangxi, Guangdong people (Hakka) love to eat sour twitter". The method of household vinegar is to put the rice soup boiled in the new rice in a clay pot for four or five days until it is satisfied, pour it into a glazed new porcelain jar, add 1 bowl of wine and 7 bowls of water, seal it and put it in the hall or kitchen, and if vinegar clothes (i.e. yeast) appear after 7 days, it will become home vinegar.
Home vinegar is bright and bright, sour, if any home vinegar has not been successful, go to the home of the family vinegar to have a bowl of vinegar clothes of the family vinegar, take it home and pour it into the porcelain jar, add wine and water according to the ratio of 1:7 to seal, 7 days later to become a home vinegar. When the vinegar in the tank is not much, the wine and water are added in a 1:7 ratio, and it becomes again a few days later, so that the vinegar will continue for many years. With home vinegar mixed vegetables clear color, sour taste, stir-fry dishes are sweet and sour, the representative work is Chengdu famous dish "Dongshan ginger sauce chicken". Household vinegar can also play a role in disinfection and treat some skin diseases. Household vinegar is very useful, but it should be maintained with special care not to destroy the growth environment of the microbiota, which has also formed many taboos. Therefore, the Hakka people spread the saying that "home vinegar does not send people, and sending people is not sour". If you want someone's home vinegar, no matter how much you want to "hang a red" (seal a red packet), even a piece of red paper.
Editor-in-chief: Bai Longxiang
Deputy Editor-in-Chief: Deng Qingfeng
Editor-in-Charge: Jiang Yi, Deng Shuang
Editor: Zheng Jinyu
Author: Hu Kaiquan
Contributed by: Longquanyi District Archives