Chengdu on a summer night,
Where there are smokers, there are cold cups.
Chengdu's cold cup is actually equivalent to the northern night beer,
The food stalls in the south, but the food on the table is different.
The cold cup is a kind of late-night snack for Chengdu people
Literally, it's a cold dish with beer
But it's not that simple!
Cold cup? Cold cup?
In the streets of Chengdu, you often see two signs hanging "Cold Cup" or "Cold Cup" at the same time, whether it is light or light is really unclear, about whether to use "啖" or "light" has always been a topic of debate.
In "Sichuan Cuisine Miscellaneous Talk", Mr. Che Spoke mentioned: "There is wine without dishes, which is precisely the habit of Sichuan people to eat wine and not vegetables in a cold cup." The "no dish" referred to here is not the meaning of no dish, but no meat and no meat, eat vegetarian wine, do not eat hot dishes such as fish and meat, eat indifferently and pompously, and its "light" word comes from this.
"Light" is taken from the meaning of "lively, eat white", its biggest feature is simple, light, so cold cup.
Others think that the word "啖" in a cold cup is the correct way to write it. The word "啖" is interpreted as follows: 啖, eat or give people to eat. Su Shi once wrote: "Three hundred lychees a day, do not quit being a Lingnanian." ”
In the Sichuan dialect, the word "啖" is more often used as a satire, and "啖華兒" means to love to take advantage and love to play slippery. If it is used as a "cold cup", it will lose the mood of the Sichuan people to taste food.
But no matter whether it is a "cold cup" or a "cold cup", in the eyes of Chengdu people, the leisurely pleasure in the cold cup is the most important.
Cold cup origin
Although Chengdu is an inland city, it was also a city that coexisted with the water, and there are many large and small docks.
Dongmen Wharf, that is, the busy freight wharf outside the East Gate, is lined with liquor stores, the shop is bustling, and many porters need to rest and drink tea and drink at the end of work to relieve fatigue, and the cold tavern also came into being.
The logo of the earliest cold tavern is also like the one that everyone saw in movies and television in ancient times, with a wine flag hanging on a bamboo pole next to the door, and many drinkers came looking for it.
Later, these taverns gradually absorbed the way of eating among neighbors, and as long as there was open space on the street, by the river or in the shade, they could put tables and stools and sell food, forming today's "cold cup" scene.
In the old days, Chengdu was a famous consumer city, and the residents living here lived a relatively leisurely life. At that time, most civilian families in Chengdu ate only two meals a day, one at about 10 a.m. and one at about 5 p.m. At night, even if you are hungry, you can only "tip" and eat something temporarily (this was recorded by the literati as "inter-food" at that time).
In the past, Chengdu people just put a table of peanuts and edamame beans and simple brine dishes in their own courtyard dam to enjoy themselves.
Later, it is no longer limited to solo music, in the street, under the shade of the river, put on a slip of tables and chairs, brine cold dishes and beer can not be less, the inner gang (friends) sit together to punch shells (chat) to drink vegetables, the hot music is a landscape in Chengdu summer.
One dish and one grid, 100 dishes and 100 flavors
Before the 1990s, the appetizer of the cold cup was mainly boiled edamame, boiled peanuts, fried peanuts with shells, fried beans, these simple dishes, and some people sold some cheap brine meat, hot dishes are not nothing, but there is no big sauce and big oil, everything is simple and appropriate, and diners try to have a mouth.
After the 1990s, the once leisurely public space gradually shrunk, but the delicious nature of Chengdu people is still there, and the dishes and dishes have kept up, it does not matter if it is dull and heavy, "eat" delicious is the most important.
From early summer to late autumn every year, there are some food stalls in chengdu's streets and courtyards, riverside shades selling boiled peanuts, beans, edamame, dried tofu, brine chicken wings, brine duck feet, pickled chicken claws, fried field snails, fried lobsters and other home-cooked side dishes, serving some "soaked wine", beer, draft beer and other drinks. At sunset and dusk, these food stalls are always bustling with people.
The dishes of the cold cup are more and more abundant and gorgeous like the makeup of Chengdu women. A variety of rich brine dishes have become the main focus of each stall, various methods of rabbit head chicken foot lobster competition, spicy fried field snails and crayfish have become a must-have, there is no fifty or sixty dishes to choose at all embarrassed to come out.
All parts of the poultry you know can be brine, beef, pig tail, pig ears, rabbit head, goose wings, chicken wings... And what they all have in common is that there is no meat at all.
Brine is the soul of brine dishes, 100 cold cups, there are 100 kinds of brine flavors, seasoning more than one point less, are different tongue tip experience. Five-spiced, spicy, salty and fresh, heavy, spicy, meat locked in the taste.
As for you asking him which one of the best brines to eat, his most likely answer is the one at the entrance to school when I was a child. At this time, the friend who was late in arriving just happened to be seated, and the topic of snacks at the school gate was from the roast to the bowl of chicken, reminiscing about the deliciousness of youth and the pocket money that was always not enough to spend.
After the heat, there is really a need for something to make people cold. At this time, a bowl of ice powder or cold shrimp is a better fire extinguisher than beer.
Chengdu people may be made of noodles and flour, during the day did not eat enough, at night must come to a cold powder and cold noodles.
Sweet and sour ice powder, fresh and strong yellow cold powder, rich ingredients of cold noodles, a mouthful of cold noodles mixed with a sip of cold beer, pure heart and spleen, fire and heat, simple and effective, worth having.
Dishes are prepared in advance, neatly arranged into two or three rows, look at which eye edge will be directly taken away, anyway, are delicious, eat is to earn.
Chengdu people eat cold cup is
Seek your own pleasure, enjoy yourself, be at ease,
It's like we usually sit in a teahouse.
When people eat cold cups, they put up a "dragon gate array" while drinking,
Up to astronomical geography national events,
Down to the neighborhood quarrels,
In short, it is everything to talk about, everything to swing.
Even if it is a matter of one's own heart,
It is possible to put it out at this time.
Let's eat a cold cup together,
Their emotions have been cathartic,
Thus feeling physically and mentally happy.
So Xiaowei feels that the cold cup of this form of dining,
It embodies one kind of thing
See the truth in the light, see the love in the light, and be indifferent to nature
Atmosphere and realm.
Comprehensive information: Foodie Research Institute, see Sichuan
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