I thought that the cuisine of Hangzhou, a small city in the southern country, was very good in taste when it was in full swing and decline.
And to be honest, simply take out the Hangzhou gang dishes, the so-called Dongpo meat, shrimp popcorn noodles, West Lake lettuce soup, etc., placed on a table without background, can not taste the praise of Mr. Bai Lotte and President Nixon. Just like the dry product name tea Longjing, only drink water, no wind and clouds, fade out of the birds, live evil.
Hangzhou's cuisine is actually the style of Hangzhou, so when it comes to Hangzhou cuisine, officials and diners must first put themselves in the tide of the Qianjiang River, otherwise there will be less meaning and unclear meaning. Therefore, writing About Hangzhou Cuisine is even more about the elegance of Lin'an people and the clean appearance of Wu Yuefeng.
Sheng, how to count Sheng? Let's take an extreme example.
The Heavenly Sons of a Country are surrounded by hundreds of officials of culture and military affairs, people move around, cranes fly on their chests, and lions and tigers roar. The car is decorated with Yunluo splendid embroidery of Qinghefang, rolling "bone-like" over the North Mountain, The South Mountain, the Jewel Mountain and the Lonely Mountain, as if thundering, followed by the silver-robed and gold-armored royal forest, "Bang Dong Dong", the horse's hooves stepping on the asparagus of the White Causeway, shaking the lake light and swaying.
It is best to have a full moon, the willow waves smell warblers, the stars in the sky are like candles on the ground, the pearls and jade cover the light of Yaotai, as for the Jiangnan maids on both sides, the smile is better than the Spring Dawn of Su Causeway, which is not scattered for ten miles, like in the TV series, it is very difficult to shake a large fan, and the sound of the Liuhe Tao is shaken into the ears of the prince and grandson - in this way, a very Sui Emperor's sense of pre-dinner ritual is created, and this extravagant style of "scene blending" is impossible to beat in the grand and suppressed Taihe Hall.
At this time, the whole extravagant and indulgent team stopped at the "Mountain Outside the Mountain" or "Louwailou" - Hangzhou really has such two famous museums, quite surprisingly, "Shanwaishan" is deliberately built on the mountain field that can be comparable to the Upper Forest Garden, I don't know if it is with Old Master Kong to raise the bar; the door of the "Louwailou" is facing the West Lake, of course, it is unique. But there are not many layers high at all, not to mention the stars can be picked by hand, and it probably takes a little time for the sunlight to spread to such a low place, but this does not prevent them from stopping the famous heroes of the Majianghu River, a prince - Jin Yong, Gu Long's Haojie, most of them are in these two restaurants to laugh at everyone and win their hearts.
According to the historical practice of our country, most of the emperors who can put up such a dragon gate array are in the capital of the northern country, and they come here by the way, and they are usually accustomed to eating rough and solid dishes in the north, and they prefer to use their hands to sandwich vegetables. Recently, I have learned about the "twelve big pieces", large and small cold cuts, stir-fried stews, etc., even if it is the three emperors of Kangqian, who have been dominating for a while, eat nothing more than these, just slaughter a more wild duck as the main ingredient (of course, this is by no means criticizing northern cuisine, people are good, the region is also different, sitting on the kang in the winter, you can come to a bowl of steaming "pork head stew noodles", Tang Bohu will also be happy).
Therefore, they held up a basket in the golden qiantang pavilion, and could not help but marvel at the exquisite carving of the southerners, a thing for people to enter, will be as pearlescent as a treasure, and the color and luster will occupy a large part of the price. This is also exactly a kind of charm of the southern country, refuse to settle, on the contrary, replace it with exquisiteness, even if the side of the lupine facing yourself is broken, it cannot hide the handsome wind of the prince facing you, and the smile is still elegant and comfortable - this is a kind of elegance that goes deep into the hearts of the people of Hangzhou, and the iron horse of the golden people has not broken it, so you can still hear and see it in the new era.
And forgive Hangzhou has too many dishes light makeup such as Qinhuai beauty, my clumsy pen can not write exhaustively, at this time only three or two, and in today's highly developed productivity, these things can also be eaten with the tour group, no need to fast for three days to ask the royal kitchen's golden kitchen knife.
I think this push must be accompanied by a picture here, you can see the famous "Longjing shrimp". This dish is a rare reflection of sincerity – in Gangnam, where sweet talk is not uncommon, it is unusually warm and happy – because it is a real dish as its name suggests, and you can even use linear algebra to simplify, Longjing shrimp = Longjing + shrimp.
Longjing shrimp
Tea is before the Ming Dynasty, expensive place in the center of the pan, just like the lake has a pavilion, a coat with water, when you look at the distance you feel that the waves under the moon have life. Green is like the spring in a girl's heart, as thin as the cicada wings that want to fly in midsummer, you can say that it is elegant, you can also say that it is young and active creativity; and the shrimp is bright white, like jade, moist and light. Of course, what is more eye-catching is "less", the elders add a few in the bowl, the children feed a few grains in their mouths, the rest of the young people have to rely on rhetoric to deceive, Linglong double palms to grab, the working people are the most lovely, took the effort to clip the shrimp, delicious and clear mouth, fleeting, as if it is a roaring carriage, stretching out a pair of thrilling soft.
Eating longjing shrimp, it is best to be slightly drunk with osmanthus flowers, the horse is drunk and swims in the wind, the person pillow is golden, and when the wine wakes up, he will remember a crushed hazy dream. Our protagonist, the emperor, when he returned to the Northern Capital in the early dynasty for a long time, still could not let go of the elegant and unforgettable traces of this dish, just like the "micro-service private visit" played the guqin, which was unparalleled, and the feelings were indifferent to the soul - and that was only found in Xizi Lake, he would often build a large number of civil engineering and come back several times, the national treasury, the money and grain piled up like a mountain, but he had to lose on a "Longjing shrimp".
If you look at another picture, it is the "West Lake Vinegar Fish", also called Song Sister-in-law Fish - I always feel that the latter name is a silent mockery of the Song Dynasty's "Chen Zhu Lixue", because it is said that Zhu Xi himself can't say clearly, the respectable and amiable sister-in-law fell into the water, whether to pull her as a skin kiss, or to uphold the gentleman's style, let her take care of herself to drown, thinking that the golden rescue time has passed, and the sister-in-law of the Song people most likely has to feed the fish.
West Lake vinegar fish
If "Longjing shrimp" is for the courtiers to enjoy and talk about, I think the warriors may prefer the fiery taste of vinegar fish.
Sister-in-law Song is a kitchen lady with a military temperament - the fish is a sea bass, once jumped around like a war horse, and with the smell of crabs, fresh and smooth, that watery sour and sweet, fast as the wind, Xu Rulin, invasion like fire, not moving like a mountain, pinning on the strength of the southern girl. Wang Shi rushed forward, domineeringly covering the taste of any other dish, passing nothing more than scorched earth, leaving only a cavity of endless taste floating.
At this time, there is a bottle of Shaoxing flower carving is even better, the wine is soft, the fish is strong, is not it as if facing the "louwailou" on the lake itself? A plate of water, but what you taste is the whistle of the wind, the solemnity of the sand, the heart of the journey, how many people can know? The fierceness of the warriors, who can know? This plate of sea bass in my eyes is not something that a Confucian who gently folds a fan can eat, but the tourists are too many, and many flower-viewing guests just take off their costumes. Maybe you think that a student from the north of Hangzhou is arrogantly fooling around. But who knows the heart of Sister-in-law Song in the past years? At this moment, in the Zhejiang restaurant in Beijing, you can also call a plate of "West Lake vinegar fish", taste what is sour, sweet and bitter, it is better to put it into a smile! The sweet and sour taste is more fascinating to children than the sweet and sour pork ribs.
If you have not forgotten the phrase "tasting when the extreme decay" is over, then we also have to talk to the eight-in-one dance outside the building about a downcast, sloppy prodigal son, in a street away from the "Kuiyuan Hall", how is it that "people are at the end of the world, why are they haggard?" Why not indulge in wine into a golden bottle"?
The cheapest noodle in the museum is "Kataekawa".
Katakogawa
The ingredients are obviously very simple, a pinch of snow vegetables, two twisted bamboo shoot slices, three strips of meat, and four handfuls of white noodles. Just like its name, the introduction is so easy to write, first-grade primary school students learn "one, two, three, heaven, earth, people", most of them can write "Kataer Chuan".
But how warm and happy are the travelers on the winter night?
Imagine looking out the window at the most windy place, and you can always see such a sad man, young and extremely talented, who is stubborn and thirsty for Lilu.
The disheveled student, rolling in, the owner of the "Kuiyuan Hall" (mostly a fat man with a red face), laughed and shouted, and brought noodles. The slightly trembling hand straightened the bowl, and the snow on the fingertips steamed and melted, and the green and white in front of him was not like the green silk of the concubines and concubines in the hall, and was it not the silver helmet of the general that reflected the luster of the tiger rune? Or is it the white hair of the mother-in-law in the old garden, hanging on the layers of green bricks stacked on top of each other?
At this time, the tears are easy to drip in the noodles, taste a bite, is salty, Kata'er Chuan originally used salty taste to please the father and elder, gu does not know whose tears, who wanders, who wanders, and swallows with a little faint meat taste.
However, a bowl of noodles is good for Qiushi Xiucai after all.
He either abandons the four books and five classics and eight pieces of bullshit, returns home to his mother's arms, and finally becomes a farmer who works day and night, fishing at night, lying down to watch the so-called heroic dog bear in the river water.
Or as Master Hongyi said, "A thousand scrolls of snow night, a statue of Hua Shi". Many years later, looking back, the prefect of Hangzhou went out of the city for ten miles to welcome, gave the museum a pair of golden signboards, but also a moment of scenery, rise and fall, all in a bowl of small noodles.
At this point, we have temporarily said that we have exhausted the taste of Jiangsu and Zhejiang.
It also impoverished the small city of Hangzhou that I knew.
General Bachelor, Mr. Xiang Mo, and go and taste, why bother?
I was waiting in the middle of the long street, with a bottle of wine and two pairs of bamboo chopsticks.