By the stove, hold the pot and hold the spoon
Between bumps and waves
Dishes like works of art come out one after another
A celebrity chef
On the podium, there was talk and talking
Sentence by sentence is at the point
He is clearly a preaching teacher
At the bottom of the pen
The nib of the pen flows out of the structure of rigorous
Establish a full high-quality paper
The content covers biology, nutrition and hygiene
Physics, Chemistry, Aesthetics
He is also a scholar with rigorous academic discipline
This is the master of contemporary cooking,
Special first-class chef Hu Changling
In 2002, the personal archives of Hu Changling, the "King of Jinling Kitchen", were collected by the Nanjing Municipal Archives as celebrity archives. The archives include recipes for Hu Changling's research, book manuscripts, various award certificates, and numerous work and life photographs.
Hu Changling's Personal Archives (Collection of Nanjing Municipal Archives)
Precious archives
Showed us
The wonderful life of a generation of chef kings
"Boy Beard Stove"
Hu Changling was born in 1911, lost his father at a young age, lived a difficult life, and began to work as an apprentice at the guest house of Nanjing Yuanjing at the age of 14, killing chickens, slaughtering geese, choosing vegetables, washing dishes... Do everything, and bring tea to the master to hand over cigarettes.
After the chores are done, he can stand by the stove to learn the craft, and he often gets up in the middle of the night to secretly practice basic skills such as "topsailing spoon" and "walking fire".
In the old days, the doors of Nanjing restaurants were mostly written with four big characters of "Jingsu Cuisine". "Jingsu cuisine" is actually "Nanjing cuisine". "Jing" is because Nanjing was once the Kyoto of the Ten Dynasties, and "Su" refers to Jiangsu. As a historical city, Nanjing has a long history of cooking.
Nanjing city famous chefs gathered, each with fresh tricks, the clever Hu Changling learned from the strengths, studied hard, and his skills soared. Four years later, he successfully left the school and entered the Jinling Chun Restaurant, the chief restaurant of the "Jingsu Cuisine" at that time, as a secondary stove, and was promoted to the main furnace at the age of 19.
From 1936 onwards, Hu Changling was also known as one of the "four sons" of Nanjing's culinary circles, namely Hu Luzi (Hu Changling), Gao Dizi (Gao Changhai), Mei Case (Mei Chunsheng), and Wu Vice Protector (Wu Jinsheng).
Because Hu Changling is the youngest chef, he is known as the "Young Hu Stove".
After becoming famous
Hu Changling was even more immersed in his thoughts
The way of cooking
Innovation doesn't stop
Specializing in culinary practices, innovation is endless
In 1940, Hu Changling went to the Confucius Temple Fu ji Wanquan Restaurant as a cook. This was one of the large famous restaurants in Nanjing at that time, and most of the guests were literati and merchants in the educational circles, and their biggest requirements for food were light and elegant, exquisite.
Hu Changling keenly perceived the psychology of diners: the taste of mountains and treasures and seas has become tired and boring, but it cannot be less than the wine table for the sake of face.
Therefore, Hu Changling adopted the method of replacing meat with vegetarian meat, vegetarian more meat and less meat, using high-grade dragon mouth vermicelli and shrimp, chicken breasts and other raw materials to skillfully make "shark fin" shape, and then use shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoot slices, etc. as ingredients, so that it is cooked like shark fin flavor, to the point of false and real.
This dish was very popular and was often used as the "first dish" for the feast.
In 1956, Hu Changling was in charge of liuhuachun, and his four famous dishes: stew core, fragrant fried cloud mist, pine nut bacon and lotus white tender chicken, were compiled into the first published book "Chinese Famous Recipes".
In 1973, Hu Changling participated in the establishment of a Jiangsu restaurant, with more than 300 kinds of dishes, such as money fish belly, Zhiyi cabbage, Taiji fragrant lotus, curry chicken, chrysanthemum pot, almond powder jelly... Each dish is a classic and mouth-watering.
Hu Changling is not only that
Is a chef who can cook
More is a person who understands theory, understands science,
Culinary experts who understand management
Author of books and lectures to cultivate culinary talents
He constantly studied cooking techniques, summed up and summarized his decades of cooking experience, removed the rough and refined, removed the false and the true, and promoted it to theory, organized and participated in the compilation of monographs such as "Nanjing Recipe", "Nanjing Teaching Recipe", "Jinling Mei cuisine classic" and so on.
The book not only writes about the palm of Nanjing cuisine, folklore, historical research and folk customs, but also makes a detailed introduction and systematic discussion of the essentials of cooking technology, flavor, and traditional craftsmanship.
In addition to theoretical research, Hu Changling also focused on cultivating a new generation of culinary talents. In the classroom, he used folk proverbs to teach cooking techniques in an easy-to-understand way.
Nanjing popular saying "Nanjing people do not know treasure, a mouthful of grass a day", Hu Changling said: "This is a self-effacing sentence, in fact, we Nanjing people know the most about the fresh and delicious wild vegetables." He introduced: "Nanjing three grasses are good, wolfberry head, malan head, chrysanthemum brain", "Jinling early spring four wild vegetables, maran head, reed artemisia, wild garlic and cabbage". He told the young students that when cooking with wild vegetables, we must master the seasons and pay attention to the cooking methods. He used the saying to explain this truth: "The first month of the reed is the second month of artemisia, march and April when the firewood is burned", "Artemisia annua is a ghost, the pot is water". He also used the folk proverb "No Artemisia no table, no duck no banquet" to introduce the local characteristics of nanjing banquet.
When Hu Changling cooks dishes, he pays special attention to "taste". He said that "the people take food as the sky, and food takes taste as the first" and "taste is the soul of vegetables". He summed up the seasoning laws of different regions in China: "southern sweet, northern salty, eastern spicy and western acid", and also summarized the seasoning methods of different seasons: "spring is more sour, summer is more bitter, autumn is more spicy, winter is more salty", "summer is light, winter is thick".
Comrade Hu Changling demonstrated cooking techniques to young chefs while speaking
From technical schools, technical secondary schools, all the way to colleges and various cooking training classes, he has trained as many as 5,000 culinary talents, and more than 3,000 disciples have been taught by his words and deeds, all over the country and abroad, which can be described as peach and plum all over the world.
Comrade Hu Changling was honored as the award and trophy of the first "Amity Cup" nutrition cooking competition in Nanjing
In 1983, Jiangsu Commercial College hired him as an adjunct associate professor of culinary specialization, and Hu Changling became the first senior intellectual in Chinese history to turn out to be a chef.
Seventy-eight years of honors
From the beginning of his culinary career in 1925 to his death in 2003, Hu Changling worked in the culinary industry for 78 spring and autumn seasons.
In 1959, after Hu Changling was elected as a national model worker, he attended the National Conference of Heroes and was cordially received by Liu Shaoqi, Zhou Enlai, Zhu De, Chen Yun, Tan Zhenlin and other party and state leaders.
After the meeting, Premier Zhou hosted a banquet for all the delegates in the Great Hall of the People, and Hu Changling was invited to elaborately prepare a five-table banquet.
In 1977, he was again awarded the honorary title of "Model Worker" by the Nanjing Municipal People's Government;
In 1978, he was awarded the honorary title of Model Worker of Jiangsu Province by the People's Government of Jiangsu Province;
In 1985, he was elected vice chairman of Nanjing Culinary Society and vice president of Jiangsu Culinary Society
Hu Changling's representative card attending the first meeting of the China Cuisine Association
Hu Changling honorary photo
In February 1985, when Hu Changling had been engaged in culinary work for 60 years, the Nanjing Municipal People's Government issued a document and decided to award him an honorary certificate in recognition of his hard work and fruitful achievements in inheriting and developing the culinary cause of the motherland.
Hu Changling has been cooking for 78 years and has made great contributions to China's culinary cause. Like scientists and artists, he was respected by society and respected by the people.
In October 2019, liuhuachun, the birthplace of modern Beijing-Suzhou cuisine, was revived and settled in the Dabanxiang block of Xi'nanli.
Century-old brand
Now it's blooming again
The inheritance of "Jinling Kitchen King" is timeless
The jinling delicacies on the tip of the tongue are all over the world
Source | Jinling Archives