The weather has begun to gradually become colder, the temperature difference between day and night has begun to increase, and most people have a good appetite during this season. The same is true of the ancients, if you travel back to ancient times, what foodie literati will see and the stories that this season's cuisine "has to say"?
"Hugh said that the perch is terrible, the west wind is blowing, and the season eagle is not returning?" In the Song Dynasty poet Xin Renjie," The Water Dragon Yin Deng Jiankang Appreciation Pavilion " written in Jiankang Province ( present-day Nanjing ) , mentions an allusion to Zhang Han 's resignation from his hometown for the sea bass that ate his hometown.
Zhang Han (張汉), courtesy name Jiying, was a native of the Western Jin Dynasty, whose ancestors lived in Wu County, Wu County (present-day Suzhou, Jiangsu), and entered Luoyang with Gu Rong as an official after sun Wu's fall. Later, because of the west wind, he missed the delicious sea bass and lettuce in his hometown and resigned and returned home. The "Biography of Zhang Han in the Book of Jin" details this story: Zhang Hanben was an official in Luoyang, but in the autumn he abandoned the official and returned to his hometown because he remembered the delicacies of the pheasant tail and the four gills in his hometown. "When the autumn wind rises, the water of the Wu River is full of perch fat. Three thousand miles of home has not returned, hate is rare to look up to the sky and sorrow. His "Autumn Wind Song" is a naked expression of his love for food, and it is precisely because of his "publicity" that gill perch and lettuce are well known to more literati and scholars. Why is it called "four-gill perch"? Originally, his hometown specialty Songjiang perch gill membrane has two orange twill, resembling 2 gill leaves, so it is called "four gill perch", and the four gill perch is most famous for the perch of Songjiang Hideno Bridge.
This story was widely circulated, and the famous calligrapher Ouyang Qian of the Tang Dynasty also wrote "Zhang Hansi Perch" for this purpose, which became his masterpiece.
By the time of the Sui Dynasty Emperor, the four gill perch became a tribute. The "Record of Nan County" records that when the Sui Emperor went down to Jiangnan, the Wu people offered the Songjiang four gill perch, and the Sui Emperor praised after tasting it: "Golden Jade, Southeast Jiawei also." ”
"The ancient literati's admiration for sea bass reached a peak in the Song Dynasty." The famous calligrapher of the Northern Song Dynasty, Mi Fu, once wrote a poem: "Broken clouds are a cave garden sail, jade breaks the perch frost breaks the orange." Good new poems follow the mulberry, and the rainbow autumn colors fill the southeast. ”
Chen Yaozuo, a scholar of the Northern Song Dynasty Longtuge, also took a boat tour of the Wu River in autumn, leaving a poem "Flat boats can't bear to go to the shore, and the autumn wind is oblique to the perch town." During the Song Dynasty, Lin Zhao, wujiangzhi county, therefore built a cultural project on the river outside the east gate of the county seat, and built a "perch pavilion" as a scenic spot. The stone stele next to the pavilion is carved with portraits of Fan Li, Zhang Han of the Jin Dynasty, and Tortoise Meng of the Tang Dynasty in the Spring and Autumn Period, and Su Shi also wrote a poem of "Portrait of Wu Jiang Sanxian in the Drama Book" here, and later some good people also gave statues to three celebrities, calling this pavilion "Three High Pavilions".
By the time of the Southern Song Dynasty, the restaurants in the capital city of Lin'an (present-day Hangzhou) sold dishes such as perch and perch soup, so that literati could experience the delicious taste of sea bass without going to Taihu Lake.
Eat duck Zheng Banqiao "achievement" "duck confusion"
"No duck can get out of Nanjing alive", a joke can see the significance of ducks for Nanjing people.
Autumn is a good time to eat duck. According to Liang Wujun's "Qi Chunqiu" quoted in the "Chronicle of Xuanwu Lake", during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the Liang Dynasty army of the Southern Dynasty and the Qi army of the Northern Dynasty confronted and confronted the Northern Qi army in the area of Fuzhoushan on the northern outskirts of Jinling, and the Liang army "wrapped rice for everyone, comparable to duck meat" and "cooked duck with cooking rice", which greatly boosted morale and was finally able to defeat the masses and return with a great victory.
The Qing dynasty man Gan Xi wrote such a thing in the "White Trivia": Feng Jinyu Thorn Shi Zhen in eastern Guangdong, overseas Chinese Ming Wa Lang, sexual love of ducks, all who go to a friend's feast and drink, must first ask for duck geometry to taste, it is said that "the duck armor produced in Jinling is in the sea, such as roast duck, sauce duck, white mix duck, brine duck, salt plate duck, water soaked duck and the like, at four o'clock each of them is victorious and beautiful." Yu so qiao yu is a state, and it is for this ear. "In autumn, in addition to the necessary brine duck and old duck shoot tip pot on the Nanjing people's table, don't forget that there is also a "duck paste".
This "duck confusion" listed by Yuan Ming in the "Suiyuan Food List" has a lot to do with Zheng Banqiao.
Yuan Ming was not only a famous literati in the Qing Dynasty, but also an old foodie who loved to eat and knew how to eat, although he was 24 years younger than Zheng Banqiao, he admired each other before the two met and established a deep literary friendship. Zheng Banqiao was very appreciative of Yuan Ming's talent, and there was a poem "Gift to Yuan Ming": "The beautiful woman Deng Quayaan in the room, jun has wizards, I am not greedy." In the "Qing History Manuscript Zheng Xie Biography", it is recorded that Zheng Banqiao heard that Yuan Ming was dead, and "Dun Shoucheng cried unceasingly." Yuan Mei also gave back the "Ming Mansion of Tobanqiao" to record the friendship between the two: "Zheng Qian has been famous for a long time, and he is very happy to see Xing Jiang. The short sideburns of the roundabout common pity are difficult to feel the width of Kyushu. The red bridge wine shadow wind lights chaotic, mountain left official sound bamboo horse cold. The bottom story was misinformed that Po Lao was dead, and Fei Jun's tears were empty. ”
When Yuan Mei wrote the "Food List with the Garden", Zheng Banqiao had passed away. Yuan Ming cooked a dish in the following way: "Cook eight minutes with fat duck white, cold and boneless, break into natural non-square and round pieces, simmer in the original soup, add 3 yuan of salt, half a catty of wine, crush the yam, and use the pot as fiber." Add minced ginger, vanilla and green onion when simmering. "The duck cooked in this way tastes very good. But this dish is like a soup, why is it named? Yuan Ming remembered Zheng Banqiao's famous sentence of "rare confusion", and "confusion" happened to be a folk collective name for mixing things cooked in the pot, so he ordered his dish to be called "duck confusion".
Eating Crabs Su Dongpo wrote more than 20 poems
"I don't know Lushan to live up to my eyes, and I don't eat crabs to live up to my belly." Su Dongpo, a famous foodie among the literati, has an incomparable love for autumn crabs.
The crabs of this season, the shell is thin and tender, white and smooth, the entrance is fragrant, and it has a sweet taste, which is a delicacy that no other delicacy can match.
Li Bai, a great poet of the Tang Dynasty, once said: "Crab claws are gold liquid, and bad hills are Penglai; and they must drink fine wine and ride the moon to get drunk on the high platform." "Since the Eastern Han Dynasty's "Cave Meditation" record has come, Chinese has been eating crabs for nearly 2,000 years, and to the Song Dynasty set off a climax of crab eating. The great writers of the Song Dynasty also left many poems related to crabs. Judging from the number of crab poems written by Ouyang Xiu, Mei Yaochen, and Su Shi, Ouyang Xiu composed four, and Mei Yaochen and Su Shi each had twenty-three. Among them, Su Shi has twelve poems, Mei Yaochen has eight, and Ouyang Xiu has four. "Uncle Jian" said, and from their crab poems, you can see the different styles of each person.
"The old crab is frost-beaten, purple chelated bluestone shell. The abyss of the fat cave is covered with food foam. This is the depiction of live crabs in Mei Yaochen's "Crab Fishing", which accurately captures the characteristics of crabs. If Mei Shi wins the "taste" of food, then Su Shi wins over the "fun" of food. In April of the second year of YuanFeng, Su Shi was transferred to Huzhou Zhizhou, and his friend Ding Gongmo was at this time serving as an official in a nearby prefecture. Su Dongpo wrote poems to give to friends that made Ding Gongmo very happy and sent him cockles as a gift in return. The cockroach is what we call the pike crab today. Su Dongpo exchanged poetry for fresh crabs, and his pride overflowed with words, and he wrote "Ding Gongmo Sends Cockroaches": "The stone crabs by the stream are as small as money, and I like to see the red jade plate of the wheel." Half shell contains yellow yi order wine, two claws xue xue to persuade to add food. The wild treasure sea has been famous for a long time, and the strange rain and fishy wind have entered the seat cold. Can laugh at Wu Xingfeng too defensive, a poem in exchange for two sharp groups. "The season is still early autumn, and the weather is slightly cold. Crab yellow has just been born half shell, not late autumn cream, but the crab cream that emits aroma is not full, but it is still a delicacy. The cooked crabs have a crimson red color and a red onyx-like luster. The crab paste was yellow, and the tender flesh was as tender as snow, which made Su Shi's appetite for wine suddenly increase, and he even called "add food". Moreover, in the process of eating crabs, Su Dongpo will always have feelings. He said in the "Four Songs of Drinking": "Holding a crab claw in his left hand, he held up a bird's eye on Yun Han." Born with this divine object, it washes me of sorrow. In Su Dongpo's view, eating an autumn crab is like a good medicine to heal the pain of the heart, which can get rid of the boredom and loneliness in the heart.
(According to Jinling Evening News)
【Source: Jinling Evening News】
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