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Found | china and even the world's earliest introduction to tea culture in the "Tsuen Fu", where is the "Lingshan" that produces tea?

Text/Wang Keming

Jin Dynasty poet and literary scholar Du Yu (毓) (?) -311) wrote "Chuǎn) Fu", an important historical material of tea culture in China, the first time to record the tea garden full of mountains and slopes, the first time to write about the feeling of refreshment, drowsiness and laziness after drinking tea. The later tea saint Lu Yu quoted the contents of the "Chuan Fu" many times in the "Tea Classic".

The Lingshan described in Fuzhong has always been valued by researchers of tea history. So, where is the Spirit Mountain?

Found | china and even the world's earliest introduction to tea culture in the "Tsuen Fu", where is the "Lingshan" that produces tea?

Statue of Du Yu (file image)

Du Yu and "Tsuen Fu"

From the origin of tea, picking, brewing to drinking, the "Tsuen Fu" describes the production process of tea more comprehensively, and its endowment is:

Lingshan Weiyue, the bell of the strange production. The grass is raw and the valley is ganged. The moisture of the fertile soil is descended by the thunder of Ganlin. In the early autumn of the month, there is little rest in agricultural work, and the couple is traveling together, which is to collect or seek. The water is the footnote of the min side, and the other side is clear. The pottery is from the East Corner. Discretionary, take the style of Gong Liu. However, it is just the beginning, the foam is gorgeous, the snow is like snow, and the spring is like spring. If it is pure dyeing of true chen, the color is green and frosty, and the white and yellow are like vain. Tune in and within, tired and lazy.

"Chuan Fu" is a bit difficult to understand, and the translation is:

Zhong Lingyuxiu's Lingshan is a favorite place for strange specialties. There is a lush stream of tea that spreads down the valley to the hills. Carrying the moisture of the fertile land, enjoying the nurturing of sunshine and rain. In early autumn, when the farmers are idle, they go together, go up the mountain to pick, and make elaborate preparations. Sencha uses the minjiang river water, only the living water flowing upstream. For tea tasting utensils, you must choose ceramic products, which are Yue kiln ceramics from the eastern Zhejiang region. The scoop of tea soup is made of melon, and the style is like that made by the ancestor of the Zhou Dynasty, Gong Liu. When the tea soup is just fried, the tea foam sinks and the white flowers float up. Beautiful like snow, brilliant like spring flowers. There is a thick tea soup, corresponding to the flashy color like green frost, white and yellow. Refreshed after drinking, drowsiness and laziness.

Several firsts in "Tsuen Fu"

"Tsuen Fu" is the first special article in China and the world to introduce tea culture, which makes a more complete description of the origin, growth environment, harvesting, drinking, selection of utensils, water use, tea drinking effect, etc., so that we can truly feel the tea drinking way and tea drinking realm of that era.

"Tsuen Fu" for the first time wrote about the scale of tea planting in "Migu Yugang", the first time about the picking of autumn tea, the first time about the most suitable tea for ceramics, the first time about the characteristics of tea soup of "foam sinking and floating", and the first time summarizing the effect of tea in terms of emotion, that is, adjusting the spirit and internal, relieving tiredness and laziness.

Because of the important position of "JingFu" in the history of the development of Chinese tea culture, Lu Yu used the discussion of "Jingfu" as the use of the tea classic three times in the "Four Instruments", "Five Boiling" and "Seven Things" of the "Tea Classic", which shows the deep influence of "Jingfu" on the writing of the "Tea Classic".

Su Dongpo wrote with emotion in the poem "Sending Zhou AnRu Tea": "Whoever gives yong is the first, and only Du Yu is passed on." The Tang people did not know good, and the treatise began with Lu. In Song Wushu's "Tea Endowment", Du Yu was also highly praised: "Qing Wen was transmitted to Du Yu, and Jing Si was also heard by Lu Yu. They all placed Du Yu and Lu Yu side by side.

Judging from the chapters and structure of the "Chuan Fu" and the "Tea Classic", the "Tea Classic" is the inheritance, development and improvement of the "Jing Fu".

Found | china and even the world's earliest introduction to tea culture in the "Tsuen Fu", where is the "Lingshan" that produces tea?

Lu Yu's Tea Sutra (file photo)

Where is the Spirit Mountain of the past?

Where is the Spirit Mountain depicted in "Tsuen Fu" that was "born of grass and migu was gangged" 1700 years ago? No definitive records have been seen.

In the "Preliminary Investigation of Tea History", zhu Zizhen, an expert in tea history, mentioned the "Tsuen Fu" again when talking about the historical materials of tea production in the Three Kingdoms and Two Jin Dynasties, affirming that tea plant cultivation in the Jin Dynasty at least had a certain development.

In the "Preliminary Investigation of the History of Tea", it is written: "Where does Lingshan refer to? There is no way to check it now. However, the author occasionally found from the "Yixing County Chronicle" that this poem, together with Lu Tong's "Walking Pen Xie Mengzhi To Send New Tea" and Du Mu's "Titled Tea Mountain" and other poems, were collected as the works of The Song Oh Yixing or Yixing people, and were included in the 'Art and Literature' department of the Zhi. If it were not for the mistake in the compilation of the Yixing County Chronicle, then this clue can also prove that in some mountains in Yixing during the Two Jin Dynasties, its tea cultivation was also quite prosperous. ”

From the above, it can be seen that Zhu Zizhen has doubts about the record of the Yixing County Chronicle. He praised the "Jing Fu" record of the grand tea production in the Jin Dynasty, but did not support the claim that Lingshan was in Yixing.

So, where is the Spirit Mountain of "Tsuen Fu" now? "Water is the Note of Minfang" provides us with important clues.

Why boil tea?

In the Book of Quanjin compiled by Yan Kejun of the Qing Dynasty, it is recorded that "(Du) Yu, the character Fang Shu, was a native of Xiangcheng (present-day Xiangcheng County, Henan). Chu and Shi Chong, etc. are the twenty-four friends of Jia Mi, and Yongxing worships Ru Nan Taishou. Yongjia Zhongjin was a right general, and later sacrificed wine for Guozi. There are several volumes of Yiyi and two volumes. ”

From Du Yu's experience, it can be seen that he should have visited many places. The "Water is the Note of the Min Fang" mentioned in the "Chuan Fu" means that the min river water should be used to boil tea, which shows that Du Yu has the opportunity to use the water of the Min River when boiling tea.

Because of this, if Du Yu also uses the minjiang river water thousands of miles away to taste tea in Yixing, it is unrealistic. Therefore, the creation of Du Yupincha and "Jing Fu" should be near the Minjiang River, and the "Lingshan" he saw should also be near the Minjiang River. While drinking tea by the Min river, it is completely possible to use pottery "from The East Corner".

More notably, the relationship between water and tea. Lu Tingcan of the Qing Dynasty, known as the "Tea Immortal", said in his "Continuing Tea Classic" "Wu Tea Boiling", Lu Yu tasted: "'Cooking tea is not bad in the place where it is produced, and it is also appropriate to cover the water and soil.'" That's a good one. Spinning spinning, two and their new yahwehs? Therefore, the "Tea Recipe" also says that "if you get one or two teas in the middle of the meng, you can fry it in the water here, that is, you can get rid of the disease" is also. ”

As far as the "Lingshan" and "Minfang's Notes" in the "Jing Fu" are concerned, combined with the characteristics of "suitable water and soil", "Lingshan" can only be located on the min river.

Found | china and even the world's earliest introduction to tea culture in the "Tsuen Fu", where is the "Lingshan" that produces tea?

Qing Jiaqing edition of Huayang Guozhi (file photo)

There is Lingshan In Hanjak-gun

The Huayang Guozhi ShuZhi records in the Hanjia County column: "Hanjia County. Therefore, the Qingyi Qiang kingdom also ... The water came from the west of Min Mountain and came out of the Spirit Mountain. Its mountains are closed and open, and the water flows out in between, to the east of the county and the Tsing Yi hydrate, and the east into the River. The land is mountainous and produces famous tea. There is a Lingguan under the Lingshan Mountain, sixty miles north of the county. There is a gorge, the mouth is three meters wide, and the length is two hundred steps. Guanwai is Yiyi. ”

Hanjia County during the Jin Dynasty, in present-day Ya'an, Sichuan, was established in the first year (221) of the Three Kingdoms Shu Han Zhangwu, and belonged to Yizhou. The jurisdiction was about the present-day cities and counties of Ya'an, Lushan, Mingshan, Baoxing, Tianquan, Xingjing, and Hanyuan in Sichuan.

From "the water comes from the west of Minshan, out of the Lingshan Mountain", it can be seen that the Lingshan May be the Lingguan of Ya'an, and there are LingguanHe and Lingguan Town in present-day Baoxing County. This place belongs to the Longmen Mountains, and from the "land is mountainous, producing famous tea", it can be seen that this place was one of the Shu tea producing areas in the Western Jin Dynasty. Here, both the "Spirit Mountain" and the "Tsukicho" of Miguru are found.

There is Lingguan Town on the banks of the Lingguan River, a tributary of the Qingyi River in Present-day Baoxing County, which is more than 100 kilometers away from the Min River in a straight line, and it seems unreasonable to drink tea by the Lingguan River.

The Spirit Mountain is unveiled to its right, away from the heap to the east

Yang Xiong of the Western Han Dynasty, in praise of Chengdu's "Shu Du Fu", wrote: "The land of Shu Capital, the ancient Liang Prefecture, Yu Zhi Qijiang, The Miaogao Miwang, lush greenery, fertile wilderness and thousands of miles ... The Spirit Mountain is unveiled to its right, and the farther away from it is to the east..."

The ancients took the north to the south as the positive direction, the ancient map to the left as the east, the right as the west, "Lingshan reveal its right" refers to the Lingshan marked the right wing of the Shu capital, that is, the Lingshan mountain is in the west of the Shu capital; "away from the pile to the east" refers to the east of the Shu capital away from the pile.

The "Excavation" in the "History" is the gateway for the Dujiangyan to divide the water into the plain, and the "chiseling away from the pile to remove the harm of the foam water" is the introduction of the Dujiangyan water conservancy project, and "leaving the pile" is the synonym for the Dujiangyan water conservancy project.

"Leaving the pile to the east" refers to the shu capital along the anointed land of Dujiangyan watering all the way to the east. From "Lingshan unveiled its right, away from the pile is its east" it can be seen that "Lingshan" and "away from the pile" direction juxtaposed, the Min River in the northwest of the Chengdu Plain out of the mountain - Dujiangyan.

The Taiping Huanyu Chronicle is under the entry "Yongkang Army (the same jurisdiction as the present-day Dujiangyan City)": "Tongling Mountain, there is a psychic temple on the zhou map cloud, because of the name." The "Chronicle of Qianlong GuanXian County" has "(county rule) From the west to the north, there is Lingyan Mountain." These pieces of information point to the "Lingshan" together in the same place: the Lingyan Mountain in Dujiangyan City.

Found | china and even the world's earliest introduction to tea culture in the "Tsuen Fu", where is the "Lingshan" that produces tea?

Snowy view of Lingyan Mountain. Photo by Ho Bo

Lingyan Mountain Pear Tea

Lingyan Mountain is located on the north bank of Dujiangyan Water Conservancy Project, which is the main peak of Yulei Mountain, and the Lingdou Spring water on the mountain is clear and sweet. At the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, His Holiness Theodh Astra of India came to this mountain from thousands of miles to build a temple, called Lingyan Temple. For more than 1,000 years, incense has been continuously passed down to this day.

Lingyan Mountain and its surrounding mountains have always been tea producing areas, and its geographical conditions are also in line with the good ecological environment of "nourishing the fertile soil and descending by the ganlin" required for the growth of tea plants.

Lingyan Mountain is located in the Dujiangyan City Hedong area, in the Tang Dynasty for Pengzhou jurisdiction of Daojiang County, since ancient tea, and excellent quality, Lu Yu", "Tea Classic" "Eight Out", there is a record of "Pengzhou Shang", the Lingyan Mountain where the Pengzhou tea is listed as the top product.

In the fifth generation, Mao Wenxi recorded in the "Tea Recipe": "Pengzhou has Pucun, Kunkou, Irrigation Mouth, its garden names Xianya, Stone Flower, etc. (number), its tea cake is small, and the Budnen buds are like six flowers, especially wonderful." "Guankou in Pengzhou is the area around Guankou Subdistrict and Longchi Town in present-day Dujiangyan City, and Lingyan Mountain now belongs to the Lingyan Community of Guankou Subdistrict.

Found | china and even the world's earliest introduction to tea culture in the "Tsuen Fu", where is the "Lingshan" that produces tea?

Lingyan Mountain, Dujiangyan City

Lingyan Mountain has always been an important source of tea. In the 1982 "Guanxian Agricultural Zoning Data" collected by the Dujiangyan City Archives, there is a record of ancient tea trees in Lingyan Mountain: "The big tea tree in Guanxian County, Pear Catecha (found in this resource survey, the altitude is more than 980 meters), this type of tea tree is relatively old. Five plants have been found in the same ground, the largest of which is 56 cm in diameter at 25 cm above the ground, 20 cm in chest diameter, 6.2 m in height, 3.3 m wide in the canopy, large leaves (shaped like pear leaves, locally known as pear catecha), heavy buds (not quantitatively analyzed), early germination (picked 10 days earlier than other small leaf species in the local area), thick branches (found that the former local staff carried out a side tea harvest every other year). Others have not yet been scrutinized and are awaiting the continuation of the resource survey by the organization of manpower in the future. ”

This pear catechu is characterized by long leaves. Wu Juenong said in the "Tea Classic Review" on the "Tea Classic" in the "Bamboo Shooter, bud second; leaf scroll, Ye Shu ci": "The 'bamboo shooter' is a shoot-like bud, which is characterized by long bud leaves, fat and heavy buds. There are two cases in which this shoot-like bud grows: one is a large-leaf tea tree, and the other is a vigorous tea tree. This kind of bud leaves have strong tenderness, rich in quality ingredients, and the quality of finished tea is of course the highest. Is this the "Tsukiya" in "Tsukifu"?

In the "Guangji of Shuzhong", Cao Xuetuo of the Ming Dynasty included duyu's "Jingfu" and Zhang Zai's poem "Dengcheng Baizhulou" in the "Record of Fangwu", making it clear that "Jingfu" described the scenery of Shu Mountain. The "Classics of Chinese Tea Culture" edited by Chen Binpan, the first tea article in the opening volume is Du Yu's "Tsuen Fu", which lists "Tsuen Fu" as the first tea culture in China.

Found | china and even the world's earliest introduction to tea culture in the "Tsuen Fu", where is the "Lingshan" that produces tea?

Lingyan Mountain Happy Rain Fang. Photo by Fu Sanyun

【About the Author】

Wang Keming, a native of Dujiangyan, Sichuan, works in the Dujiangyan City Archives. He is the initiator and director of The Sichuan Li Bing Research Association, a member of the Academic Committee of the Li Bing Research Center, a senior talent of the "283 Project" in the Archives of Sichuan Province, a member of the Chengdu Writers Association, and an advisor of the Dujiangyan Historical and Cultural Research Center. His major works include "Dujiangyan Century-old Archival Memory", "Ancient City Relics - Old Guanxian and Ruyan Past", "Memorandum of Dujiangyan City of the "5.12" Earthquake", "Dujiangyan Archives", "The Forbidden City Taiping Huaqingcheng is the Hometown", "Birthplace of Tea Culture - Dujiangyan City", "Dujiangyan Document Integration, Historical Literature Volume and Literature Volume", "Sima Xiangru Burial Dujiangyan City Preliminary Examination", "Open Dujiangyan" and so on. He has won the third prize of the Sichuan Provincial Government's Outstanding Achievements in Social Sciences, the second prize and the third prize of the Chengdu Municipal Government's Outstanding Achievements in Social Sciences.

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